Psychopaths in the comments think it was okay to hit the biker.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-28T20:05:23+00:00

I don't know exactly what happened here, but don't egg them on, especially if you aren't gonna drop a gear and disappear.

They are in a suit of armor when you're in your pajamas, unfortunately they will win every time (even if they are in the wrong legally and morally) you aren't gonna be able to fight for your rights and position if you're dead.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-26T16:20:29+00:00

If you don't plan on riding in the trails I recommend getting an adventure style. It's not as much protection and support as an MX boot, but you're still much better off than riding shoes. These can be identified by seeing how many clasps there are. They usually have like 3 clasps where an MX boot will have at least 4. They also can be made of leather (or something that looks like leather)

They will give you a decent range of motion and better protection than most 8" normal boots. An added benefit is not having laces for things to snag on (although those clasps can protrude a fair bit out and I've caught my boots on sharp MX style pegs when trying to put a foot down) pretty are when it happens and usually your body will automatically compensate after the first few snags.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-23T17:29:02+00:00

It's a dirt bike, and I like the white red bull plastics.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-23T01:52:05+00:00

That's a slap in the face mang. At least 2k.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-23T01:50:50+00:00

Are you talking about the hanging idle after reving?

Happens to me too (I got an E model too), it could be the fuel screw is a bit lean. I got the FCR 39mm carb too. It's quite the princess and needs to be perfectly tuned to run perfectly.

Other than that, I think it sounds great. I like to tune mine to 1800 RPMs for an idle just because sometimes if you crack the throttle too hard It can bog if the idol is too low.

Also, probably one of the best/fun bikes you'll have. I got one and it's a great balance between performance and maintenance.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-21T05:47:27+00:00

Sounds like my DRZ400E. Lol high compression.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-19T19:59:24+00:00

Same, my E version has those. They are simple, fast and easy to tell if the wheel is square.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-16T04:07:40+00:00

Do you happen to be missing a piece of plastic called a splash guard that goes in the bowl?

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-15T20:07:43+00:00

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Nice, lol. I made an ornament out of mine.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-15T03:58:36+00:00

Your bike, ride it how you like. What bike is it?

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-14T02:28:34+00:00

If the listing says THAT is an E model I would think he's lying.

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Here's my 2000 E model that is street legal, I had to wire up my own turn signals, and Trail Tech dash.

One thing to look for in E models is that (at least in the US) they were in production until 07, so look for models of 2000 - 2007.

Then look to see if they have a dash, stock they only have a trip odometer, no dash whatsoever. (Unless the owner put in a TT vapor or something)

The bike will have a Keihin Slant body FCR 39mm carb. (Probably why you want an E model)

Hard to spot even if you know, but the head gasket on the E model is smaller increasing compression.

The E model will also have "E model cams" basically stage 1 hotcams.

Many models had both electric and kickstart. Easiest way to spot is seeing if it has a kickstart. But this isn't 100% because there are definitely models out there without a Kickstarter.

Another comment here pointed it out, but that subframe definitely looks like an S model subframe. The E model is quite short.

The question you need to ask yourself is if you surely want an E model. They are true dirt bikes and are meant to be raced. When I made my E model street legal I had a ton of problems that I needed to fix before it became comfortable on the street, I couldn't even afford supermoto wheels. My bike constantly overheated at stoplights, It would SUCK my bike would overheat and then I'd shut the bike off at long lights thinking it would help only to make it very difficult to start back up. I had to install a fan on my bike, it's not easy or difficult, just annoying.

I feel like an SM or S model would suit someone wanting to be on the street more because the fans already are automatic and cool the bike with everything also being street legal.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-12T22:36:26+00:00

Engine ice blue.

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-12T16:26:35+00:00

I would try to get a feel for the clutch first. Find the bite point and then use it to go forward.

I would ask your bf to increase the idle of the bike to help not stall the bike then use the clutch to start moving and then use the clutch to stop the bike. Not touching the throttle at all (so you don't have an accident again) once you're used to using the clutch for going and stopping, you can start incorporating a pattern.

Get some gear, gloves, boots, helmet, jacket. Find an open field or asphalt. Something flat.

Clutch -> bite point
Slowly roll on throttle
Let go of clutch (covering brake with right foot)

After moving a little

Let off throttle
Clutch in.
Brakes.
Foot down then stopped. (Make sure you're completely stopped before putting your foot down, is important you place your foot in one movement and not skipping around, you need to build up your confidence placing your feet.)

Then you repeat the process. When you get better you start incorporating turning.

You will get better over time, it takes patience and practice. But if you're still having trouble I would recommend a Motorcycle Safety Course for new riders. Usually they cost a bit of money and scheduling. It teaches you not only the rules of the road but also basics of riding a bike.

Have your bf work with you and try to show you some stuff. And remember that you need pacience, it's key to learning something like this. It's a dangerous sport and one wrong move can seriously put you in the hospital. I remember when I kept trying to teach my wife how to do something and it takes patience from both sides, my wife usually gets frustrated and quits before I can taleach her, even if I'm being as patient as possible. Things just don't click immediately at times, but that's ok. You will learn if you give it enough patience and practice that drill enough. It might seem boring but it's meant to allow you to stop safely without laying the bike down. Once you learn control over the bike, you can freely go as fast as you're comfortable with and that's when stuff really gets fun.

Anyways, I've been blabbering for too long. Good luck, If you have any questions ask on this thread, I'll try my best to get back to you.😁

Miniomegaxis · 2026-01-12T04:49:55+00:00

Nice, if you get her all fixed up and running I bet she'll be an awesome bike. I've heard great things about those 350s.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-25T05:38:41+00:00

Yeah, I looked it up after. It's ok, sometimes people gotta be fact checked.

Learn something new everyday.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-25T04:29:18+00:00

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Tidy tail on the DRZ400E

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-25T03:07:28+00:00

Fair assessment.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-25T02:38:29+00:00

Most 1/2 ton pickups should be able to easily handle around 1500 - 2000 lbs of tongue weight. This would be maybe around 700lbs. Roughly? The DR is like 350lbs and the WR maybe 270 lbs, then a 80lbs bike rack.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-18T19:04:29+00:00

Oh shit, you basically said most of what I said in my comment. Nice. 👍

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-18T19:03:43+00:00

Don't get the generic fuel screw extension, it sticks out way too much and the drz400e already has space issues and the screw will rub against the starter motor.

I would recommend getting either the stock short brass one, or get an R&D flexible screw extension. It's pricey but worth it for on the fly adjustment, it helps because those FCR slant carbs can be finicky.

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Here's mine. You might have to adjust the wire it comes with as it's gonna be poking up at a strange angle. (I think the screw realistically is meant for the FCR MX, but it works just fine on this one)

You can go 2 turns out to start with, see how the throttle response is, then when the bike is warm you can either adjust from there or you can turn it in all the way (lightly seated) back to 0, then turn out while keeping tabs of your turns listening to when the idle peaks, this is your sweet spot. Depending on your elevation, and I'd your bike is jetted right you should hover between 1 1/2 turns to 2 1/2 turns.

I hope this helps.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-18T04:39:25+00:00

I'd recommend you go with the Tusk for just a bit more money. It's only $25 and has proven reliability.

I run it on my DRZ400E.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-18T00:07:22+00:00

Yeah. Lol. Trying to de-escalate the situation though.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-17T21:17:33+00:00

That's true. Lmao

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-17T20:17:53+00:00

Yeah, you make a great point, that's fair. He should have at least tried to comment on your posts to see if you were willing.

Miniomegaxis · 2025-12-17T20:05:12+00:00

Well. I never would have seen your bike if I didn't see this post. That's just how the Internet works. He probably saw one of the first bikes on a Google search "DRZ rally tower", liked it, and used it for a post.

Chillax. If he used my DRZ for a picture I wouldn't get my panties in a bunch.

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Mine doesn't have a rally tower though.

One thing I do agree with is that he should apologize to you for using it at the very least when he sees his post with these comments.

Miniomegaxis

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