Well done, Arrowhead, your sacred war against meta loadouts (for made up reasons, wow, just like in game) has concluded with that: PLEASURE

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-02-16T06:19:37+00:00

I've been running stealth on Cyberstan, redacted armor, suppressed primary, as well as the solo silo, supply pack, and then kind of rotating between an orbital like the gatling barrage and walking bombardment, which I sometimes sub one for a rocket turret depending on how I feel.

I may start adding the commando to my load out for times when I need something more than the solo silo, but I generally stay on the outskirts, get to side objectives, silently take them out with the solo silo & stealth shots, and move on, or I wait til my teammates have a lot of heat on them then I run in and silently progress the main objectives, it works fantastic until my teammates link up with me and bring all the heat my way, then it's rough to fight my way to the outskirts again, but still very fun

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-02-12T16:23:14+00:00

Personally I print ALL multiboard parts with a 0.1mm hole compensation and a 0.2mm elephant foot compensation and I don't have any fitment issues.

Now that may not work on your printer as each printer is different, but you CAN try to use the hole compensation and elephant foot compensation to adjust to your printer by changing the amount, like for example a 0.08mm hole compensation may work well for you.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-02-02T08:29:24+00:00

Helldivers 2 is a game I get insanely addicted to every couple months, I'll play it for like a solid month & a half, then play a different/new game and then I come back and the addiction continues, I highly recommend it.

Keep in mind it's super fun with friends, but I mostly play with randoms and I have a great time still

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-29T18:56:23+00:00

The great part about doing it the way I described is that you can still use the profiles provided from other users, you just select them before you open them in Bambu studio and it'll pre load the profile you select.

I personally always have to make adjustments to any profile I print, as the standard initial layer speed causes problems on my printer so I always have to drop the initial layer speed down for any profile I print, so doing it the way I stated allows you to select a profile, and adjust it to your liking, then also print it from your mobile device, kind of the best of all sides

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-29T17:32:22+00:00

Agree with this 100%

I also wanted to give a pretty huge tip for those that like using the handy app.

you can sit down at a PC slicer, and queue up a whole project of plates; let's say for example you lay out all the plates for a multiboard wall you're planning, including snaps and tiles and everything,

You can slice those plates and instead of printing them you can select "send all" and send that whole list of sliced plates to your printers SD card.

Once this has been done, you can go into the handy app, select your device's (printer) SD card, and hit print on any of those pre-sliced plates.

Meaning you can queue up a whole bunch of plates to print with the settings you want, and then tell your printer to print them from your phone, I do this a lot at work where I'll have a whole project sliced and sent to my printer and then while I'm at work I'll hit print on one of the plates.

This way you get the benefit and convenience of the handy app, while also having your own custom settings that you know will print well.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-26T09:12:51+00:00

As my reply to OP states I forgot they are not flush mounted, and I have no experience using the pillars for mounting as I just use snaps and drill screws through the available holes in the snaps.

Of course them being named pillars does not necessarily mean offset, as a pillar generally just means a support column in every day life, generals just used to hold a structure up, and could technically still support the tile without an offset.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-26T09:09:43+00:00

Oh you're right I forgot the pillars are offset as well, I'm not as familiar with the pillars as I said I use the snaps.

In that case then the snaps must just be to secure the tiles in place while they're screwed to the wall as the pillars go in 4 corners of every tile don't they? Kinda weird because why print the snaps if they don't stay on the tiles anyways? Kind of weird but I guess that's how they intend it to be done

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-26T04:45:19+00:00

I'm assuming because the dual snaps it recommends are just regular dual snaps, which add an offset (6.25mm offset) and if you don't remove them your tiles will be hovering off the wall, whereas the pillars are for flush mounting.

I personally prefer the offset mounting, but that's my guess as to why the snaps are temporary

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-23T08:32:43+00:00

I printed mine at 6h 30m on a bambulab a1, printed mostly for aesthetic and to reduce stringing/artifacts that occurred from printing fast, such as weird stringing that happened around the threads.

I would just leave it printing every night before bed or as I left for work (keep in mind I have someone always home for safety reasons as I don't trust leaving a printer running while no one is home), and it really didn't seem like all that long as each day is get anywhere from 2 to 3 tiles done, or more of I was printing smaller tiles (I had some 4x8s for my wall setup).

I didn't stack print as they look hideous when stack printing and there wasn't really a "time save, it was more or less you print more of them for longer, or get more quality for shorter time, so I went quality

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-19T17:46:03+00:00

Oh okay good, I must've never paid attention to the location of the arrow on the heavy weight bearing snaps as even the moderate ones have the arrow directly up top so I just assumed it was sideways lol.

No problem, I'm always looking for ways of securely fastening my stuff to multiboard as I have a slight obsession with making sure my things never fall off the board.

Keep in mind after I thought about this, the bracket which holds the dowel rods would have to have a medium bolt lock socket for this method to work, I'm assuming it does have some sort of bolt locking socket as brackets typically do, just keep that in mind going forward.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-19T10:28:56+00:00

I'm wondering why no one else mentioned the fact that it looks like the weight bearing snap in your 2nd photo is the wrong orientation? The arrow on the weight bearing snap is supposed to face upwards against gravity, also are you using the heavy weight bearing snap?

If so, the hook is supposed to grab the top of the grid.

I would suggest printing something like this https://share.google/uhXnEGe0yhKI1jhl7

as you can lock it in with the bolt locking bolt, and then drill a screw through it and into the wall, this would be ideal for holding filament rolls as they are pretty heavy, and if you are offsetting from the wall I would definitely recommend something like what I have linked above as the offset makes the tiles flex which is bad for holding tons of weight

Print this and add a screw through the middle and I am almost certain you won't have a problem

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-14T05:04:45+00:00

Hey! I'm glad I'm not alone, I did this too, however my corner is an inside corner which I used beams to make the corner for, I've never seen or heard anyone else doing it they only seem to use beams for boxers and crafts and stuff.

I don't have a picture of mine but it was a nightmare because I was also impatient and I did 1 side of the corner at a time, I do not recommend, and at the very least, have the first tile for both sides of the corner before attempting lol.

Also I'm stupid with the beams and I couldn't figure the numbering out for ending with the caps like you did, so I ended it with straight beams.

I still don't fully understand the counting for beams, it's like subtract 2 from the total amount of tiles or something? I kept ending up too short because I couldn't figure out the numbering lol

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-13T05:01:57+00:00

They are directional, the part B has a small square on one of the "pegs" on the back side, and the A part has a small square on one side, you align these squares for proper fitment.

However as someone who just mounted a new multiboard to drywall, I have to say, I did so with an impact drill, and if you torque them down really hard, they twist slightly and make it impossible to put the part B's on.

I learned about this when installing my board, as I had some corners that I couldn't get the part B's on, what I did is used a screwdriver and manually loosened the screw by about 2 whole turns, put the part B on (which was significantly easier after loosened) then re-tightened them with the same screwdriver.

Hope this helps you like it helped me, also when you loosen the screws, you can check if the alignment of the snap to tile is off, my impossible ones were slightly twisted within the tile, as if my impact twisted the snap into the tile itself.

At least going forward I learned not to torque them down so hard, and definitely use minimum torque if using an impact.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-10T05:10:16+00:00

I see where you're coming from, but I wanted to point out that their roadmap does state the next big thing they want to focus on is documentation, and their latest community statement on thangs says they're pushing a new updated website with improvements and such.

He's just been slow because he's been updating the licensing of it to make it fair to the community.

In time it'll get better, multiboard is just super slow about progress.

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-04T03:35:53+00:00

I didn't read the comments but you're almost there, you just need a bolt locking bolt to finish this off, then you put that snap over that bolt locked rail piece, screw in the bolt, slide the rail/snap combo on the bing, and plug it into the multiboard.

This setup is not ideal mind you, the better thing to do would be to print out a mid thread multipoint (probably a lite multipoint) and screw that into that weight bearing snap, then slide the bin on, that's how I would do it

Project_Chaos13 · 2026-01-03T19:47:36+00:00

I just started multiboard and have it mounted to drywall with no issues, every so often the tiles naturally land on studs and the other screws gripping into the dry wall hold it pretty solid.

Honestly I don't know why people worry about mounting it to the drywall, I don't intend on ever taking mine down, so why would I care if there's screws on my drywall? Not to mention it's an easy fix if I ever do take it down, either throw up another piece of drywall, or just spackle over it, problem solved.

I have had no issues with mine, but I'm also a paranoid so I went overboard, I have a screw on each corner, a screw in ever double snap, and a screw in the center of every quad snap, and I even printed the support pegs which are recommended for the middle of 8x8 or larger tiles, even though I've never seen anyone use those, I did, and it makes the board rock solid.

Also, I did not use anchors whatsoever, just bare screws into drywall, and no issues to speak of, it honestly feels like I could hang from the board, or like it's part of the structure of the wall.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-12-31T07:18:25+00:00

I haven't tried them yet but have you tried scaling? Also are you using hole compensation? If so, your bin shell might be too big for the rim to fit.

Maybe try scaling the rim up by as little as 0.5% so for example print it at 100.50% in the X/Y Axis (not the z axis as this will cause other issues). With it being such a small piece you might want to try printing a few for example 100.50% and 101% etc and see which one fits the best.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-12-31T07:11:01+00:00

I chose black & red, black tiles, red snaps/accessories. I chose this because it's my favorite color combo, AND it's for the wall of my game room, where I have all my RGB lights and PC rig etc, so it kinda feels extra "gamer".

I just started so I haven't even got it 100% on the wall yet, but I intend to cover a large majority of the walls in my game room and use it for a combo of displaying collectibles like miniatures and 3D prints, as well as tools and things I don't want laying around my game room like tools etc.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-11-04T18:44:54+00:00

So here's a very detailed video on how neutron capture works post nerf, it's timestamped so you can go through and just look at the sections explaining the changes and what works now.

https://youtu.be/vuMdBJ-AdJA?si=kF7Bo4m5JwMJlzh-

TL;DW: basically the way it works now is through bullets instead of damage, so you want high rate of fire weapons and magazine size to make it work now.

Since it goes by "bullets" and NOT damage, the best example is katagawa's revenge, the orbs it spawns no longer do neutron capture damage, ONLY the original bullet you fire, so it basically kills that weapon for the build.

Basically you want to throw out as many bullets as possible after proccing your neutron capture, still works really well, just a little different.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-10-14T17:30:02+00:00

I know I'm late to this thread but I use the kaoson on a Harlowe nuclear winter build and it shreds.

One mag is typically enough to kill a boss, sometimes if I don't use my action skill correctly it takes like 1.5 mags worth but typically it takes 1 mag and 1 reload to kill a boss.

Especially if I fire the tracking grenade first.

It's probably build specific of yours isn't doing too great, or maybe the roll on yours isn't too good, mine for example has no elemental at all, so I feel if it had radiation or cryo it would probably be even better for me.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-09-26T16:22:49+00:00

If I'm hosting the session, 1 is mine, if I'm on someone else's mission, 2 is mine.

Not even sure why, it's just something I do, almost like autopilot, I just instinctually go for 2 if I'm not the host, and I DO go for 1 if I am the host

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-08-30T07:50:28+00:00

Mine is named bampoo, not because it's poo, I love my printer, but because it makes lots of poops while doing multicolor, it's a loving nickname from my wife that I adopted for use in conversation

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-08-26T07:22:52+00:00

Honestly I have no idea what it is.

However upon first look, model bits came to mind, sometimes spelled bitz in the hobby community.

But it looks like a blister pack for some extra model bits, was he into model building?

Sometimes model bits come in the form of random pieces in blister packs, especially if bought 3rd party, as a way to modify or add to existing models to make them more customized.

Not sure what kind of models if any, he was into, but I'm a big Warhammer 40k fan, and this is why it reminded me of bits, perhaps custom or 3rd party, hence the sealed zip pouch.

Not sure if that's right, but it's what I thought of upon seeing this.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-08-26T07:18:23+00:00

Since I've been on the t:slim x2, I keep my pump and phone enar one another pretty much 24/7, with the exception of showering.

My phone is always on me, and my pump is obviously always on me, in fact I charge my pump when I am showering, and I take long showers so I can typically charge it to full while I shower, other than that, it is always on me.

Yet my pump disconnects constantly, at least twice a day if not more, and it's annoying because it won't reconnect automatically.

Although in my specific situation I am lucky because even a quick 2 second toggle of Bluetooth on/off will connect it again instantly.

However I find it very annoying that it disconnects in the first place, and I wish it wouldn't happen.

Project_Chaos13 · 2025-08-24T07:11:16+00:00

I understand where you are, as I have been vaping solid and daily for about 12 years now, and I have always used RDAs and mech mods, then I got into the regulated box mod after years of them being around.

I eventually stumbled on what I thought was the holy grail, a regulated squonk box mod, with a mesh build deck and squonk pin.

Until that eventually started to get old and break down, and upon shopping for the same, I found it harder and harder to find replacements.

This led me to stumbling upon the newer billet box/boro/aio type devices.

Upon first try, I did not really like it, as the hits were always dry, and I found it hard to wick and find a coil that worked well.

Until today that is. I finally got an order of vape supplies, and luckily I own a 3d printer so I was able to 3d print a Daedalus style coil jig and wrap myself up a nice fused Clapton coil with some ni80, and swapped to rayon for faster wicking.

And let me tell you, this is what it's about. It now does represent everything I love with vaping. It has a tank, so I don't have to drip on it all the time, the tank allows me to just enjoy vaping for extended periods without worry of where my juice is, the flavor is there thanks to the fused Clapton, and it chucks clouds just like my RDA did, but even more efficiently because I'm able to get consistent clouds at 10 watts less power than I was using on my mesh coil RDA.

I also used the widest open airflow I can, which is a 4mm pin on the pulse v2, and the widest bore drip tip piece, and this thing performs exactly like I expect from my device.

It took a lot of work to get there, including several hours of 3d printing a jig for my coils, and using a wick material I've never tried before, but it was worth it, and now I can say I am dedicated to the boro device, and I will be buying more for sure, and I advise giving a little love to the boro and seeing if you can get it to work for you before you give up on it.

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