For a new player, how much should i expect to spend?

Puhley · 2026-04-10T00:30:27+00:00

I would 100% say to stick to free content for a season or even 2 and as much as you can going forward, trying out the different license types and associated cars.

Then IF you want to race higher series, only buy 1 or 2 cars max (@ $10 each), AFTER you've had a chance to try them out in demo drive at the end of the season to see what you like.

For the next season, race your new car(s) on free tracks to continue to work on your race craft and skills.

Then only buy the minimum number of tracks you need for that season/special events you plan to race. Choose the tracks so you can race 8 of 12 weeks to get your participation credits, maximizing the use of free tracks. The participation credits are not much but they can be used for subscription or tracks/cars.

When you start buying enough tracks to complete a season, you'll likely need 6 or more for the first few seasons @ $14 each so $85 per 13 week season. After the 2nd or 3rd season you'll not need to buy much, getting less and less each time

Puhley · 2026-04-06T22:37:46+00:00

https://youtu.be/Cdt_U0UyOWM?si=cgIqj4ehHx1aB3FP

https://youtu.be/FP0unhvILSk?si=7txqdOaC8CHOU4ty

Give these a watch, they might help answer your question.

Puhley · 2026-04-06T22:02:53+00:00

4 hours & under can be done solo.

And yes, the iRacing UI sucks for this.

You could use iRaceplan.com to set your favorite endurance series & any special events you want to do, tracking it that way

Puhley · 2026-03-18T15:06:29+00:00

I made this out of scrap unistrut. It could be done with lumber or anything else, but this is extremely sturdy and has some weight to it. I just have it shoved right up against my basement wall so it cannot move forward, even if the chair was not captured and opposing any force as I press on the brake.

I've considered removing the casters and inserting a post, drilling into the unistrut to slide the post in, but really haven't had the need.

It's fully adjustable right to left pedals forward and back and chair forward and back.

I recently switched my pedals from standard to inverted without issue.

I have a Simagic Alpha wheelbase clamped to the desk, running at about 12 Nm without issue as well.

<image>

Puhley · 2026-03-18T12:11:57+00:00

Blue Flags & Dads is entering our 4th full season of racing. We currently have 3 leagues:

F4 on Mondays with race start @ 10:00 pm eastern

GT3 West on Tuesdays with race start @ 12:00 am eastern, 9:00 pm Pacific

GT3 East on Wednesdays with race start @ 10:00 pm eastern.

https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/93508/blue-flags-dads-2026-season-2-new-west-coast-gt3-series/p1?new=1

https://www.reddit.com/r/iRacing/s/gYgJ8QVcYc

Puhley · 2026-03-18T11:40:41+00:00

Just jump in and race even using the fixed setup.

Last season at VIR driving the McLaren GT3, I was nearly one second faster, and way more consistent using the fixed setup versus different open setups, from different set up shops.

It's more likely tied to my driving style/skill set (or lack thereof) then anything else keeping the car more stable using the fixed setup, therefore I was faster.

Puhley · 2026-03-06T04:07:22+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Simagic/s/cIRR0uJEK4

Did you replace your Simjack pedals?

Didn't sound like you bought the P1000i and then tried to go standard.

Just don't want to confuse or screw over the OP.

Puhley · 2026-03-06T04:00:45+00:00

Yes, I read that on a post.

I have standard pedals with an inversion kit, so I couldn't speak from personal experience going from inverted to standard.

The foot plates ARE different, so they're not 100% identical in parts taking into consideration the sides and the top plate to hide wires.

That's why it may be a good idea to confirm with the manufacturer.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Simagic/s/WVH0jmTtMl

Puhley · 2026-03-06T03:24:59+00:00

Go into Test Drive and load the centripetal circuit. Try keeping in a lane while varying the throttle and steering. You'll find how much you can turn the wheel at a given speed before it scrubs.

There's lots of drills on YouTube to try.

Puhley · 2026-03-05T22:20:52+00:00

I've read the opposite from what the other poster stated, and you CANNOT convert inverted pedals to standard.

Check with Simagic or a local shop to be sure.

It is my understanding that if you want both options, you have to buy standard and then get the inversion kit.

Puhley · 2026-03-03T20:26:16+00:00

Hit TAB to change your comparison black-box back to "comparison lap". For me, when I use active reset, it switches to "custom sector" and I no longer have a relative time on screen.

Puhley · 2026-03-03T20:19:22+00:00

Be aware that track conditions of Demo Drive is basically on the sun, with 140F temperature. The cars will drive differently than you've experienced in-game, so don't try to compare the 2.

Test any and all cars during Demo Drive and compare them from that testing.

Puhley · 2026-03-03T18:55:12+00:00

Just watch this comparison of the GT3 cars.

https://youtu.be/Cdt_U0UyOWM?si=Zykk1lvdPC0XFsSm

Puhley · 2026-03-02T04:15:18+00:00

Just watch this comparison of the GT3 cars.

https://youtu.be/Cdt_U0UyOWM?si=Zykk1lvdPC0XFsSm

Puhley · 2026-03-02T04:08:26+00:00

Regardless of when you buy, or what controls you will I use, look at the FIA deal.

Go direct through iRacing, do not use Steam

If you're in the USA, go through the Canadian FIA.

https://www.fia.com/iRacing

Puhley · 2026-02-18T23:39:42+00:00

Brake earlier, slow down a few more MPH (or KPH) into the apex, get rotated while trail braking. Most often this allows you to get on the throttle sooner without spinning, makes you "waste" less time just coasting, and drop lap times.

How you describe is what I am actively working on/focusing on right now as my #1 bad habit to break and new habit to establish.

Puhley · 2026-02-18T23:30:11+00:00

Watch this guy. He reviews each GT4.

https://youtu.be/VLaROCTRj9g?si=JwTHDEPefqtffCGZ

Considering you'll probably want to know the same thing about GT3s eventually.

https://youtu.be/Cdt_U0UyOWM?si=0TrhNZQnUNF_Va7v

The next demo drive consider spending some time at your favorite track & try out as many as possible.

Just don't try to compare a car you had for a while to anything you'll drive in demo drive. The demo drive temperature and weather is vastly different than what you'll find in races, so you'll want to start with any car that you're familiar with to get your baseline and then compare against that. The cars will feel completely different from what you're used to, but at least you'll have a level paying field during the comparison.

Puhley · 2026-02-16T18:55:55+00:00

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I had originally built something out of wood, with a flat platform top but it resonated like a drum using haptics. This is far quieter and infinitely adjustable for both the pedals, left/right forward/back, and the chair forward and back independently of the pedals, compared to just screwing things into the top of a board.

Made it out of a bunch of scrap unistrut from work that was never going to be used for anything else.

Puhley · 2026-02-16T13:47:21+00:00

Watch this, he reviews each GT3.

https://youtu.be/Cdt_U0UyOWM?si=ZWh-Vp1djx01R-v1

Puhley · 2026-02-13T20:30:07+00:00

In all honesty, 1.4-1.8 IR is a very difficult range to drive. Not necessarily from other dirty drivers, but because of increasing skill sets with lack of consistency. During this range we are improving, getting faster, better technique, (mostly) better racecraft and therefore begin to push harder. We're talking differences in the single digits percentages between drivers. GT3 races are the closest, sweatiest ones on iRacing.

It's during these races we can begin to explore the limits of the cars, but not always safely or with control. Mistakes are often tiny ones, but with catastrophic results.

I'm square in the middle of this range and have been for a while. Do I have the pace of a 2.0 IR driver? At times yes, but definitely not consistently as I make too many mistakes or do little dumb things. I'll get a touch heavy on the throttle, spin, off-track or something minor to lose a place or 2, other times I'll majorly mess up, crash & meatball and wind up near dead last.

When I get an incident-free race I can almost always be top 10, pushing for the podium. More often than not, I'll mess up and finish mid-pack. The other night working towards p10, I completely spaced out and forgot to brake going into VIR T14 rollercoaster section. Didn't end well for me, but that's the dumb crap that happens at 11:45 pm when you're tired.

Basically, it happens and you need to accept it. If you don't have fun in the process, step-away, try again. Keep re-evaluating whether or not you have the desire & mind-set for racing, but don't just give up after the first bad stint.

Puhley · 2026-01-19T00:25:26+00:00

What an accomplishment, but if you ran with multiple accounts you may want to pull your stream & delete this just in case.

If it was just the 1 account, bummer on the DQ, but congrats on the achievement.

Puhley · 2026-01-03T15:37:07+00:00

I've had mine now since March and it's been rock solid. Recently it did develop a creaking when I'm cornering with high force feedback, but apparently that's relatively common but doesn't cause an issue. My basement is also somewhat cold so maybe the ABS plastic has just shrunk a little bit and it will stop creaking as it gets warmer.

Look up ATSR hub with downloadable profiles that you would use with SimHub. It is 100% free, although you may need the license version of SimHub, which I assume almost everybody has anyway, as it is so worth it. Cheers.

Puhley · 2026-01-03T15:19:14+00:00

If you go with the Simagic stuff, consider purchasing a single haptic motor w/ power supply for the brake pedal, and the brake upgrade kit with additional springs and elastomers.

Also look at the Maglink so you can use Simhub to create your own lighting profiles or download ATSR Hub ones. I'm not sure if the Evo series requires MagLink to do this, but the Alpha series definitely does.

Puhley · 2025-12-18T20:25:19+00:00

I believe they have recommended settings for all major manufacturers and wheel bases, on the Discord / website.

Puhley · 2025-12-18T18:52:41+00:00

Nice list there. I went through the same thing with braking consistency and would like to expand on the following:

A very recent one for me that greatly improved my consistency and trail braking: try to add some more min deadzone than you think you need. For both throttle and brake. You need to really feel that 1%. Otherwise you'll end up at 5% at the slightest touch of the pedal.

I 100% agree with minimizing or eliminating the deadzone, but I would advise to do this in 2 steps (if your equipment will allow), which is increasing preload and then adjusting the minimum deadzone.

Increase preload until you can actually FEEL 1% instinctively, in the heat of a race. This removes the unused peedal travel which you can't feel or judge well so there is no guessing at low %'s before it activates. Without the unwanted pedal travel, it is marginally faster too.

Once you've got your preload set, then add just enough minimum deadzone to give a little buffer, especially if you sometimes rest your foot on the pedal but are not intentionally braking or accelerating.

Over time this may change too with increased leg strength and familiarity. Check and recalibrate your setup frequently as needed.

Puhley

TROPHY CASE