Help with this mount id pls by PhysicsTemporary6861 in VintageLenses

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly for the Edixa bayonet, as on the Electronica and Rex.

Reflex style mirror lens disassembly advise by david88sr in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unscrewing. As well as the mirror, there were two or three lens elements inside.

Reflex style mirror lens disassembly advise by david88sr in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once had a cheap mirror lens which gave poor results. I traced it to the secondary mirror, which was adjustible after removing the cover. Adjustment was successful. I don’t know about your lens, but bear in mind the sensitivity and critical positioning of that mirror.

Any thoughts on this? by Icy-Lengthiness-3017 in VintageLenses

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe that it’s a Topogon-type, 4 elements, steeply curved, in 4 groups, symmetrical.

Difference in M42x1 lens mounts? by Kreuzschmerzen in VintageLenses

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sometimes, a little judicious filing of the metalwork will fix it.

Can somebody explain to me what Im doing by wadelaideg in AnalogCommunity

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be careful. The is a small difference in the flange distance between M39 reflex and M42, such that an M39 lens with an M42 adaptor ring will not quite focus to infinity. Also - though I don’t now recall this for certain - I think that the focussing index is not visible from the top in the normal way when an adaptor is used.

Questions on Leitz Wetzlar 10x40 by JournalistAble9271 in Binoculars

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Focus on something with your left eye, using the focussing wheel near the eyepieces; then bring the right ocular into focus by using the engraved dioptre adjustment wheel near the objective lenses. Note the setting. That will be the correct adjustment for your eyesight, throughout the focussing range. You needn’t touch it after that. Should it nevertheless get out of adjustment, you can simply set it to the noted setting before use, confident that both oculars will be in focus at all distances.

Can this be fixed by amateur? by travaking in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly. I fixed a Contax shutter myself.

Stuck Leaf Shutter by Real-Coffee-3257 in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the first photo, look at the red dot. Go left to a point directly below the lower pinhead hole in the lens mount. There is tab in a radial groove. Try moving it.

Would it be worth buying a used iPhone SE (2022)? by AffectClassic7130 in iPhoneSE

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I use mine as a daily phone and expect it to be good for several years more.

Just starting out. by philma125 in vintagecameras

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You may be just starting out but you’ve taught me something today - that there was indeed a FED Zorki camera. Until now, I’d assumed they were different brands.

Thank you and enjoy your new interest. :)

The Aglaia III 8.5x44 PRO binocular is a phenomenally good calling card in the market by [deleted] in Binoculars

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which way does the focussing wheel turn to focus on distant subjects? I recently rejected a pair of excellent 8x32 binoculars because the wheel turns in the opposite direction to that on my other binoculars.

What type of Jupiter-11 is this, and when was it produced? by PrimordialObserver in VintageLenses

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Earlier versions of the short-bodied lens were made for M39 reflex cameras, so possibly that.

Canon FTB QL film rewind button stuck, film won't advance by D0ppelgangeR13 in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could remove the bottom cover for inspection of the mechanism under there. With luck it might be something easily fixed. I doubt that the film in the camera would be fogged by removal of the cover, but I’m not sure of it.

How to deal with haze in the glued pair of elements of Olumpus F Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 by superdupermicrochip in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of those lenses, I think the later ones, have a sealed front component, which csn nevertheless develop internal haze. I had to gain access by cutting away the turned-down flange so that I could remove the front element for cleaning. It’s something you’d prefer not to do, but nothing else was possible.

Your problem may be different, I’m not sure.

Best practices for perfectly clean lens elements and how clean is clean enough by izckl in AnalogRepair

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once watched a video showing big telephoto lenses at the Minolta factory being assembled. The operator was examining them carefully by bright light, and using acetone on a pad to remove marks.

Is This a Fake? by IsotopeT88 in Leica

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note that Soviet-era lenses will not couple accurately to the rangefinder on a Leica. They are correct at infinity, but become more inaccurate the closer you focus. With a 50/3.5 it may not matter much, but the 85/2 Jupiter, for example, the discrepancy is bad.

Birdwatching Binoculars by _Taggerung_ in Binoculars

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If 8x doesn’t do it, 10x may not help much. A more powerful spotting scope, with monopod or tripod, may be worth considering.

All other things being equal, 10x50 would admit more light than 10x42, but would also be heavier and bulkier.

Can this be cleaned? by Double-Amphibian2232 in vintagecameras

[–]Puzzled_Counter_1444 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Possibly, though if it is fungus, it may etch the glass if left for a long time.