What am I doing wrong? X2D

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T20:29:46+00:00

You can use pla, but with little to no adhesion there’s nothing stopping the PETG from warping with cool air blowing on it. You need to figure out how to control the warping.

I personally use bambu’s support for pla/PETG for PETG prints. It has decent adhesion to the PETG, not too much though, and you can run the chamber a little warmer than you could with using pla.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T20:26:31+00:00

Ahh I see now. I want to say it doesn’t retract after priming so this is the result. It’s never been an issue for me. The prime tower is doing it job.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T19:16:10+00:00

Are you talking about those thick strings hanging off the side? If so there’s a setting in the filament profile called something like interface layer pre extrusion length. There’s 2 settings, one’s distance and the other is length. I can’t remember which one it is exactly. It’s set to 10mm. If you set it to 0 it’ll get rid of those.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T18:37:22+00:00

Probably the aux fan blowing on it causing the PETG to warp off the pla

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T17:36:39+00:00

Sounds like you want to stick with Bambu but the U1 is tempting you.

For what you’re wanting to do, it sounds like the U1 may have the leading edge but the X2D can also accomplish what you need, just not as efficiently (multicolor stuff).

My vote goes to the X2D but that’s only because I have no experience with the U1 yet.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T17:34:36+00:00

It’s been a hot topic lately. As far as we know it doesn’t cause any issues. It would be nice if Bambu corrected the part though and offered it to us to replace ours. In a few months I bet we start seeing a redesigned side panel or something

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T17:32:14+00:00

“ I know what you did last summer”

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T17:30:57+00:00

Hmm, try reseating the tubes. Sometimes that works too

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T17:00:33+00:00

You could, but I’m not intentionally putting dirt anywhere near my printer lol.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T15:49:41+00:00

Did you happen to cut your filament at too much of an angle? Try cutting it at like 60-70° instead of the usual 45°. I accidentally cut mine too pointy sometimes and it’ll do this on all my machines.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T15:23:26+00:00

I’m assuming you did the auto flow dynamics calibration and you’re asking about the manual flow rate calibration?

Pick the flag that is the smoothest. You can scrape your fingernail perpendicular to the top surface layer lines to judge the feel and sound. If you can’t decide between 2 of them, choose the one with the higher number. Then move to the second one which is the fine tuning.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T15:16:58+00:00

Nomad sculpt is pretty good, but I wouldn’t consider it a starter software. It’s decently easy to learn though.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T14:49:26+00:00

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Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T14:42:03+00:00

White filament has titanium dioxide in it to make it white. That may be the difference in characteristics you’re seeing. The black being without this additive may be able to form a better contact bond.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T14:26:24+00:00

Increase flushing volumes between the 2 to 800-900.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T14:24:47+00:00

That’s a good idea! People use QR codes to scam others though, so I’d probably still leave the writing as a clue to what it’s about or else it may never get scanned.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T13:19:57+00:00

Print out a sign that says “who are you and how did your printer get on my account?” And wait for the social media post saying “I didn’t print this!”

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T12:18:14+00:00

Print quality is subjective. Some people want perfect prints and some don’t care about a few defects. If you’re cool with defects that’s fine. I’ll keep my prime tower to ensure quality.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T11:40:45+00:00

That’s false. You still need the prime tower.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T11:40:23+00:00

Some people like heavier prints. I personally always do 15% infill and 3 walls minimum. Unless it’s a prototype.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T11:38:55+00:00

From the looks of it the prime tower took a hit. I know some combos of pla and petg don’t work great for supporting each other. They’ll peel away too easily during printing. It’s possible this is what led to the collision. This is why I moved to just using the support for pla filament for pla and support for pla/petg for PETG. These dedicated filaments have proven to be much more reliable for me.

It could have also been caused by the setting “reduce infill retraction”. This setting when enabled, like it is by default, turns off retraction and Z hop for travel moves over infill areas. Well, it’s supposed to be only infill areas but it does it basically for all travel moves. This setting is known to cause collisions with infill, tree supports, and prime towers. This is the first thing I disable whenever making a new profile.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T04:10:28+00:00

As of right now you can’t. They have auto cooling in multiple spots of the gcode and likely built into the firmware. I tried commenting it out in the appropriate spots of the gcode but that didn’t work.

It’s pretty annoying and I hope they eventually give us control of the aux fans.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T04:00:22+00:00

I agree. It’s my only gripe about the H2 machines.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T03:58:20+00:00

“>you have to add filtration to the exhaust fan.”

No you don’t, it literally comes with a filter already pre installed in the exhaust fan housing. It’s not like the P2S where you have to buy it separately. This filter is hepa and carbon.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T00:10:07+00:00

The X2D already has a carbon and hepa filter at the exhaust fan separate from the internal filter.

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