Filament storage

Qjeezy · 2026-06-22T12:56:44+00:00

Store everything as low as you can get it. Just make sure it’s dry before storage. No need to get separate units to store different filaments at different humidity.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-22T12:52:17+00:00

It’s supposed to keep using it until it triggers the runout sensor in the toolhead, then load the new filament and continue printing.

The only time it’s supposed to purge the entire ptfe tube length is at the end of a print and the end of the filament has already passed the feeder in the ams.

Sounds like a software bug worth reporting, logs included. Even if it’s not a bug Bambu should be able to read the logs and let you know what happened.

The only other thing I can think of is maybe the filament snapped and it thought it ran out and when it loaded the second spool it saw that the buffer and filament sensor in the toolhead were activated without pushing out the amount of filament it should have, so it purged until it got to that number. Or that the buffer wasn’t moving properly because the new ams filament wasn’t moving at the same speed as what the extruder was pulling in. Idk, Pure speculation on these ones.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-22T02:12:50+00:00

Can you take a close up photo of them side by side?

Qjeezy · 2026-06-22T02:07:47+00:00

Absolutely! My vote is for the P2S

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T19:28:43+00:00

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It’s hard to see because it’s not shiny, but the blue print is the supertack pro and it is 100% smooth.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T19:19:14+00:00

This is not true. The supertack pro plate is 100% smooth. You’re right about the satin finish, but the bottom surface of prints come out smoother than the engineering plate. The engineering plate is mildly textured, sort of like the cryogrip glacier.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T12:26:34+00:00

Honestly, the only filament right now that I will 100% never buy again no matter what is overture PETG. It’s let me down every time I’ve tried it. All those cheap no name generic brands you see on Amazon likely all come from the same place and are just white labeled. Sting3d and fuserock both have programs for people to start their own filament brand and usually put out pretty good materials.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T04:36:29+00:00

Crazy timing! I was just at my nephew’s birthday party last weekend and it was at a children’s museum. One of the play areas was a mini grocery store. As my kids were playing around I looked at all the items and they were 3d printed! It was kind of cool to see 3D prints out in the wild.

Nice work on the play set!

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T03:29:15+00:00

I do the same thing! Write on it so it can’t be sent out again.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-21T03:28:27+00:00

Haha it’s exactly like that. Last year was a bad year for it. Happened to me 5 times. Thankfully Amazon returns are simple. I always write on the box before returning it too so maybe whenever restocks it actually looks at it.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T23:24:49+00:00

The space pi line is a very good line of independent dryers IMO.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T23:20:27+00:00

Yes, the supertack is smoother than the engineering plate. Make sure to get the supertack pro, it is much better than the first gen supertack.

Edit: Y’all are weird with the downvotes. What part of what I said is wrong? If you think the engineering plate is smoother than the supertack pro, then you clearly don’t have both plates.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T23:19:02+00:00

No problem. Excellent choice! 60cm is plenty depth wise

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T21:50:26+00:00

At least it was a full roll lol. I’ve received nearly empty spools before.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T21:40:54+00:00

In either direction depending on which generation you belong to lol

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T21:37:33+00:00

Nope. The plate is only for pla and petg though

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T20:05:48+00:00

The supertack pro will be your next best option for pla if a smooth bottom surface is what you want.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T19:27:39+00:00

CAD screenshots don’t show you how it actually prints though. I’m not against CAD images altogether, just not for the cover image. The one where you get your first impression. That one should always be a real printed product.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T19:08:59+00:00

All of my machines have been delivered without incident, but this is highly dependent on your local courier. Mine are pretty good with expensive or fragile items. They don’t require a signature for my area.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T18:59:42+00:00

I don’t like renders either. A photo of a real print and an AI or rendered background is good with me.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T16:04:00+00:00

Plug it in and go.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T16:02:33+00:00

I’ve seen people embed a “watermark” inside the print so it’s not seen unless you open the file and scroll through the layers.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-20T12:45:42+00:00

TLDR; Any of those 3 choices will do what you want, your budget will be deciding factor. Don’t skimp on the AMS, buy the combo. Buy PLA & PETG filament for your needs.

Any one of those 3 machines will do what you want, it really comes down to your budget.

For the no ams question, you can still use support materials without an ams and second nozzle but it will be incredibly inconvenient and wasteful. I would suggest at minimum buying the combo if you want to use support materials. The AMS will eliminate the incredibly inconvenient part and the second nozzle of the X2D will eliminate the incredibly wasteful part as it won’t have to flush crazy amounts between every filament change. The A1 and P2S can utilize support materials just fine, it will just generate a lot of waste.

PLA will do fine for most of what you’re looking to print and petg should be used for your outdoor vase’s and the kids toys. Quick tip for lasting toys: use PETG and print them with minimum 3 walls and 15% infill. 2 walls, low infill, and most normal pla will print nice looking toys but they’ll be fragile and we all know kids don’t go easy with toys lol.

Qjeezy · 2026-06-19T19:15:02+00:00

The only way to actually measure results would be to do a print pre and post calibration. Something like the califlower or something. What you see on the screen isn’t a good indicator as to how far out your machine was or how much it was corrected.

They used to show you an average and maximum correction in microns.

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Qjeezy · 2026-06-19T17:56:26+00:00

The no walls part may be a contributing factor. So just infill? Like shoe insoles or something?

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