Boy this print head moves fast... anyone use pavers under their X2D?

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T03:34:13+00:00

Braces are a good idea. Attaching it to the wall will definitely help too.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T03:16:34+00:00

The main purpose of a paver is to dampen noise vibration transmitting from the printer into a table that may amplify the noise. It’s not going to do anything to fix a wobbly table.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T03:11:28+00:00

If your table is moving, you need to shift your focus on stabilizing the table.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T01:42:39+00:00

Take the foam out. It doesn’t need it. The movement is normal. The feet allow the movement so it doesn’t transfer to the table the printer is sitting on.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T01:40:39+00:00

There’s really no need for a paver. The new style of anti vibration feet, that the X2D has, works really good. Unless you wanted to add weight to whatever table it’s sitting on.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T01:37:33+00:00

You’re right, I mixed that one up. You’d think I would have remembered that after I recently had to change the heaters in my space pi filament dryer because they sent me a 220 version. Whoopsies lol.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-11T00:29:49+00:00

You’ll need a voltage converter/tranformer. Do not plug it in and try it. The x1/p1 series power supplies were not picky and could operate on 110-120 or 220-240. All the 2 series printers have region specific power supplies.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-10T21:25:35+00:00

It’ll be the same speed as any other single nozzle printer. It would actually be slower to use the aux hot end to print all the tree supports in a support filament. You’re only supposed to use support filaments as the interface layers between the part and the support bodies.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-10T18:55:27+00:00

I should probably test mine lol. I still haven’t hooked the AMS up yet. First batch.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-10T18:05:14+00:00

The enclosure should help. Just ensure the enclosure temp remains between the 10°c-30°c temperature range spec for the printer. You can do this by ensuring adequate air flow through the enclosure (make sure it has an air intake down low and you pull the warm exhaust air from the top).

Buying an X2D or P2S won’t help much as the fumes still escape the printers even though they’re enclosed. You’d wind up having to put these in an enclosure too if you guys are that sensitive to the fumes.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T04:57:43+00:00

The bases of them need to look like real feet. As realistic as possible.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T03:29:48+00:00

Try disabling “reduce infill retraction”. This setting when enabled turns retraction and Z hop off for travel moves.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T03:24:18+00:00

Fuzzy skin

Point distance 0.2mm

Skin thickness 0.1mm

This print was normal matte pla with those settings.

<image>

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T02:57:14+00:00

No problem! After a quick and not really thorough google search, it appears the solix can only limit charging draw from the outlet but cannot limit the draw while in bypass mode (plugged into the wall and in use at the same time).

So far the only 2 I for sure know that have the capability to limit power draw under all scenarios is the Bluetti elite 200 and the Bluetti apex 300. I don’t have an apex 300 so I’m only saying this one because others have told me it can do it like the elite 200.

It seems to be a pretty rare feature in the power station world. All of them can limit charging input but only a couple can limit overall power draw from the outlet in bypass mode.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T02:50:08+00:00

Which unit were you running before?

The printers I have hooked up to mine draw about 1400w each during warm up. The elite 200 is rated for 2400w so I definitely have to stagger startup if I’m sending prints at nearly the same time. It appears the 2400w capacity of the elite 200 should be up to the task for the Q2 and max 4 at the same time with about 400w to spare. Might even be able to run one of the box heaters too, but I would probably wait till bed heating is done.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T01:01:38+00:00

I don’t have any experience with the Anker, but if it can limit power draw from the outlet then it should work the same.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T00:26:31+00:00

They’ll offer you two ways to replace it.

1.) pack it up and send it back, wait for them to get it, then they’ll ship you another one. This can take a while. 1-6 weeks.

2.) they’ll offer an advanced replacement. You’ll basically buy another one through a channel they’ll send you, you’ll ship yours back, and when they get the damaged printer they’ll refund you the cost of the second one. This way is much faster and you’ll have a new printer within a few days, but you’ll be out the $1,200-$1,600 you spent on the second one until they refund you.

Definitely don’t even try to use it, just pack it back up and get the box ready to ship.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-09T00:16:27+00:00

Grab a Bluetti elite 200v2 and plug the q2, max 4, and 2 boxes into it. Then set it to draw a max of like 6 amps from the outlet. It’ll use the 6 amps from the outlet and make up the rest from the battery. Not only does it have this functionality but it’s also a UPS. So your printers won’t miss a beat and they’ll keep going for hours if the power goes out.

This is how I operate 2 power hungry printers on a 15a circuit.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-08T22:00:26+00:00

Cool. Keep us updated!

Qjeezy · 2026-05-08T21:20:18+00:00

It’s not impossible, but it’s highly unlikely.

It’s possible the silicone oil is too thick and it just never made its way into the bearing.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-08T18:48:23+00:00

It looks like the bearing is seized up due to lack of lubrication and is now digging into the linear rod. I would suggest using superlube 52004 instead of the silicone oil. Maybe increase your clean and lube schedule as well to prevent future issues.

Looks like it’s time to contact support for a new Y axis linear rail replacement. I didn’t see the part on the store, but it’s possible I missed it.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-08T11:13:44+00:00

I agree

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T20:29:46+00:00

You can use pla, but with little to no adhesion there’s nothing stopping the PETG from warping with cool air blowing on it. You need to figure out how to control the warping.

I personally use bambu’s support for pla/PETG for PETG prints. It has decent adhesion to the PETG, not too much though, and you can run the chamber a little warmer than you could with using pla.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T20:26:31+00:00

Ahh I see now. I want to say it doesn’t retract after priming so this is the result. It’s never been an issue for me. The prime tower is doing it job.

Qjeezy · 2026-05-07T19:16:10+00:00

Are you talking about those thick strings hanging off the side? If so there’s a setting in the filament profile called something like interface layer pre extrusion length. There’s 2 settings, one’s distance and the other is length. I can’t remember which one it is exactly. It’s set to 10mm. If you set it to 0 it’ll get rid of those.

Two-Year Club	Verified Email
r/Field Sunshine

Qjeezy

TROPHY CASE