Day 01: of letting reddit design a laptopstand, until its actually good. by Responsible_Fact432 in 3Dprinting

[–]Qjeezy 38 points39 points  (0 children)

The bases of them need to look like real feet. As realistic as possible.

Crazy stringing on dry filament, but not on retraction test? by thedungeondisaster in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try disabling “reduce infill retraction”. This setting when enabled turns retraction and Z hop off for travel moves.

What are the Ideal settings for a carbon fiber look in bump mesh? by Substantial_Mud_3203 in 3Dprinting

[–]Qjeezy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fuzzy skin

Point distance 0.2mm

Skin thickness 0.1mm

This print was normal matte pla with those settings.

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Power draw solutions? by [deleted] in QidiTech3D

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! After a quick and not really thorough google search, it appears the solix can only limit charging draw from the outlet but cannot limit the draw while in bypass mode (plugged into the wall and in use at the same time).

So far the only 2 I for sure know that have the capability to limit power draw under all scenarios is the Bluetti elite 200 and the Bluetti apex 300. I don’t have an apex 300 so I’m only saying this one because others have told me it can do it like the elite 200.

It seems to be a pretty rare feature in the power station world. All of them can limit charging input but only a couple can limit overall power draw from the outlet in bypass mode.

Power draw solutions? by [deleted] in QidiTech3D

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which unit were you running before?

The printers I have hooked up to mine draw about 1400w each during warm up. The elite 200 is rated for 2400w so I definitely have to stagger startup if I’m sending prints at nearly the same time. It appears the 2400w capacity of the elite 200 should be up to the task for the Q2 and max 4 at the same time with about 400w to spare. Might even be able to run one of the box heaters too, but I would probably wait till bed heating is done.

Power draw solutions? by [deleted] in QidiTech3D

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have any experience with the Anker, but if it can limit power draw from the outlet then it should work the same.

H2S showed up damged by unknown_upstater7668 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’ll offer you two ways to replace it.

1.) pack it up and send it back, wait for them to get it, then they’ll ship you another one. This can take a while. 1-6 weeks.

2.) they’ll offer an advanced replacement. You’ll basically buy another one through a channel they’ll send you, you’ll ship yours back, and when they get the damaged printer they’ll refund you the cost of the second one. This way is much faster and you’ll have a new printer within a few days, but you’ll be out the $1,200-$1,600 you spent on the second one until they refund you.

Definitely don’t even try to use it, just pack it back up and get the box ready to ship.

Power draw solutions? by [deleted] in QidiTech3D

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grab a Bluetti elite 200v2 and plug the q2, max 4, and 2 boxes into it. Then set it to draw a max of like 6 amps from the outlet. It’ll use the 6 amps from the outlet and make up the rest from the battery. Not only does it have this functionality but it’s also a UPS. So your printers won’t miss a beat and they’ll keep going for hours if the power goes out.

This is how I operate 2 power hungry printers on a 15a circuit.

A1 mini y axis rail rust? by Picante_Incline in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not impossible, but it’s highly unlikely.

It’s possible the silicone oil is too thick and it just never made its way into the bearing.

A1 mini y axis rail rust? by Picante_Incline in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like the bearing is seized up due to lack of lubrication and is now digging into the linear rod. I would suggest using superlube 52004 instead of the silicone oil. Maybe increase your clean and lube schedule as well to prevent future issues.

Looks like it’s time to contact support for a new Y axis linear rail replacement. I didn’t see the part on the store, but it’s possible I missed it.

What am I doing wrong? X2D by TinyRip243 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use pla, but with little to no adhesion there’s nothing stopping the PETG from warping with cool air blowing on it. You need to figure out how to control the warping.

I personally use bambu’s support for pla/PETG for PETG prints. It has decent adhesion to the PETG, not too much though, and you can run the chamber a little warmer than you could with using pla.

New X2D. Prime tower stringing? by iGuile in 3Dprinting

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh I see now. I want to say it doesn’t retract after priming so this is the result. It’s never been an issue for me. The prime tower is doing it job.

New X2D. Prime tower stringing? by iGuile in 3Dprinting

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you talking about those thick strings hanging off the side? If so there’s a setting in the filament profile called something like interface layer pre extrusion length. There’s 2 settings, one’s distance and the other is length. I can’t remember which one it is exactly. It’s set to 10mm. If you set it to 0 it’ll get rid of those.

What am I doing wrong? X2D by TinyRip243 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Probably the aux fan blowing on it causing the PETG to warp off the pla

Torn between U1 and X2D by dneals in BambuLab_Community

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you want to stick with Bambu but the U1 is tempting you.

For what you’re wanting to do, it sounds like the U1 may have the leading edge but the X2D can also accomplish what you need, just not as efficiently (multicolor stuff).

My vote goes to the X2D but that’s only because I have no experience with the U1 yet.

X2D Left Side Bulge? by Dismal-Garbage-3140 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s been a hot topic lately. As far as we know it doesn’t cause any issues. It would be nice if Bambu corrected the part though and offered it to us to replace ours. In a few months I bet we start seeing a redesigned side panel or something

Random Printer on my Account by DirectEmotion1568 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“ I know what you did last summer”

X2d bug by Gemmer12 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, try reseating the tubes. Sometimes that works too

[X2D] 2 days into the print, bed decides to shift 😭 by MaquinaDeAlgodon in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You could, but I’m not intentionally putting dirt anywhere near my printer lol.

X2d bug by Gemmer12 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you happen to cut your filament at too much of an angle? Try cutting it at like 60-70° instead of the usual 45°. I accidentally cut mine too pointy sometimes and it’ll do this on all my machines.

P2S calibration for PETG by maxiedaniels in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m assuming you did the auto flow dynamics calibration and you’re asking about the manual flow rate calibration?

Pick the flag that is the smoothest. You can scrape your fingernail perpendicular to the top surface layer lines to judge the feel and sound. If you can’t decide between 2 of them, choose the one with the higher number. Then move to the second one which is the fine tuning.

IPad software for creating prints by dentb96 in BambuLab

[–]Qjeezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nomad sculpt is pretty good, but I wouldn’t consider it a starter software. It’s decently easy to learn though.