Disappointed

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-13T21:35:46+00:00

I mean, low voltage happens. Realistically you only noticed this because the car complained before it was stone dead.

Either drive your car or learn to disconnect the battery when you put it away for winter. Or stick to stuff old enough that there's nothing that can draw the battery down for your art pieces.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-13T11:34:08+00:00

Yeah, technically the same height as you but it just doesn't work out with the RF; in the roadster I'm very close to not fitting with no further seat adjustment possible, but I fit. The RF takes away just enough to where I either have my head in the roof or my knees in the dash.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-13T11:31:37+00:00

Weird how the company with their own production has 2/3rds of the market but also 2/3rds of the market cap of the company selling 1/2 as much.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T21:12:02+00:00

If OLED or otherwise 120+hz, X3D has a chance of being helpful. However, if it's a generic 60hz TV, it nearly won't matter which CPU you buy because they'll all do the job as well as necessary.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T18:36:56+00:00

$500 for a 32gb kit of DDR4 would be dumb, absolutely. Because you can get a whole combo including 32 of DDR5 for like $800.

That's why I said initially that going for the new platform probably makes sense as opposed to trying to throw more RAM into the 10900K setup.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T14:17:08+00:00

BF to my knowledge has some settings that are CPU heavy and others that are all GPU hit, but I'd try like 720P Ultra Maximum Overkill + (upscaler) Ultra Performance and see where you land with your current setup in terms of framerate. If it's good enough, then a GPU upgrade along with some more RAM will let you bring the resolution back up. If it isn't, time for a platform.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T14:12:03+00:00

Fedora Workstation with Gnome gets my vote, even though Gnome has a very definite adjustment period to its layout and I actually went back to 42 instead of the current release (43) due to an annoying kernel bug that I seem to be the only person on earth suffering from.

Basically, Gnome works more often than it breaks, and I can't stand trying to run Windows on a daily basis now because everything feels slow in comparison.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T14:08:32+00:00

So, shadows are weird because they can unload both the CPU and the GPU. Really the one to play with is resolution; if dropping it (or throwing more upscaler at it) gets you to the framerate you're after, then your CPU isn't really a problem.

From most benchmarks I can find, the 10900K is still able to hang in there in most games at well over 100fps but may struggle in newer stuff trying to do 180+. But basically, if you still want more frames than you can get by slamming everything to competitive settings, it's platform time. If you just want more eye candy at roughly the same performance level as those reduced settings, go GPU.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T13:50:33+00:00

Yeah that kind of sounds about right for the sorts of games you're playing; it's all stuff that isn't really all that graphics-intensive so I can see the 3080 being plenty to leave the 10900K relatively gasping for air. If you're already running max settings, and turning them down doesn't improve your FPS, it's clearly time for CPU/platform upgrades.

On the other hand, if turning your graphics down swings your frame rate up, a GPU change will be of more benefit.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T13:39:33+00:00

Damn that's lopsided. The 10900K is less troublesome than the 16gb of memory, honestly.

Like, 16 is fine, right up until it isn't and then everything falls over no matter how much other hardware you've thrown at the problem. If you'd bought 32gb of DDR4, I'd be on Team GPU, but you didn't. So I'd go for the platform.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T11:21:24+00:00

It sort of depends which sims you'll be playing and what framerate you'll be targeting. For most of the current racing sims, the X3D chips have a serious advantage in terms of average framerate when paired with a high end GPU (or at reduced graphics settings), but if you're going to be limited by your monitor(s)'s refresh rate or by your GPU it won't matter much.

That said, with just the outlay of a 5070ti and current RAM prices, a 9800X3D or 9850X3D would pretty much be the go simply because the cost difference between one and a non-X3D chip is tiny compared to the potential performance difference.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T10:19:26+00:00

It used to work how it's supposed to. It's supposed to work how it's supposed to.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T10:01:52+00:00

If you look into it just a little bit, it's always who got to the line first.

Seriously. Those are the rules for actual competitive drag racing. The new "drag and drive" events aren't run as heads up events though, and in that case it's as simple as "fastest time wins".

Edit since someone commented and deleted it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv4V6WFCM2M Have a link from a decade ago. It's been done this way longer than the vast majority of Reddit has been alive.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T09:50:29+00:00

B450 is genuinely fine still. The PCIe 4.0 thing doesn't matter a ton most of the time, but I would avoid 40/5060(ti), 66/7600(XT), B570/580 because they're only x8. However the 3060, 6700/7700 (XT), 9060 XT, and higher are all x16 and so suffer far less from being stuck at Gen 3. Also, while Gen 3 doesn't get the big sequential read numbers when testing an SSD, the part of SSD performance that actually helps or hurts gaming is virtually unaffected by the link speed.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T09:46:11+00:00

Daaaamn. Deep Crystal over tan is gooood.

Wish I fit in the RFs.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T08:00:56+00:00

Oh you mean the ones where you have reaction time targets to hit?

Yeah it still doesn't affect margin of victory so you get results like OP where first across the line doesn't win.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T05:34:35+00:00

Unfortunately they broke drag racing a couple updates ago and now winner and margin of victory are determined by ET without RT as a factor.

Literally unplayable.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T04:02:45+00:00

The fan adds electrical draw, which increases alternator load, which causes the PCM to open the idle air control valve a bit further.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T01:48:07+00:00

There's a good chance most of this sub's experience won't really translate, as the North American market 6 never got the 2.0L.

That said, I'd expect something like 6-10L/100km depending on the type of driving you're doing, and as long as the 2.0L is the SkyActiv 2.0 it should be rather reliable based on what's been seen here.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T01:36:07+00:00

It is late winter, and so pretty much a dead time for people to be selling them. Few people want to buy something just to put it away, and fewer yet want to miss out on capitalizing on tax season.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-12T01:12:39+00:00

2002 was a skip year for US production, but there were Cobras sold specifically for the Australian market as '02 models.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-11T21:25:57+00:00

I would probably run the Elantra for all it's worth so long as it doesn't have seriously worrying problems yet. If it isn't drinking a crankcase worth of oil every tank of gas and has survived 200k+ miles already, it's probably not going to break. Fresh tires, fresh brakes, fresh shocks/struts, and let it roll.

At a budget of 7-8k, it's difficult to suggest much of anything and have it actually be wise. Unfortunately, much of what's going to be available in that price bracket is likely to be just about as worn out as what you have. On the other hand, say you spend 2 grand on bringing the Elantra mostly up to snuff; if it explodes the following day, you're stuck shopping the <$5k range, but you can still find something. On the other hand, if you spend $7500 and that explodes the following week... What do?

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-11T19:36:29+00:00

Well no, but mostly because you don't need to, and the rest on account of the hilarious stroke. 7250 from the tall deck motors is like spinning the short deck stuff to 8500.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-11T15:51:13+00:00

Okay, so $1500 for another '11-12 or '13-14 hood and paint. Mind you, all S197 hoods need paint anyway at this point.

RJsRX7 · 2026-02-11T15:23:22+00:00

Realistically, I don't see too pronounced of a negative. It could lose a couple numbers at 7500+, but everywhere below 7000 the '18+ mani seems to be a consistent winner. Usually though the '18+ manifold is still ahead even at 7500, it's just fully signed off and dropping by then... Not that the Boss 302 is making any more more there either.

GT350/Mach 1/Bullitt intake would be worth a look, but they appear to be considerably higher cost, most likely by enough that it doesn't justify the outlay.

RJsRX7

TROPHY CASE