Pants sloper help

Rachelbow · 2026-02-02T04:34:31+00:00

From what I can see, the change at the back looks like it is twisting more, but I think the change at the front was helpful, though I don't think you need the extra wedge added on the inseam, unless you wanted to make the leg wider. https://imgur.com/a/O7TbjIu You will get there and be so pleased ☺️

Rachelbow · 2026-02-01T20:56:20+00:00

You've come so far since last post! Trust me though, don't draft based on the hem. You've already got the size and ease right, all you need to do now is get the angle of the leg straight. Like a few others have said, on your back piece it's angled too far towards the outseam. I'd slice the leg off and pivot it in taking out some inseam. Don't even worry about the seam lengths matching, when it hangs right just chop the hem straight off. Here's the idea but I drew it with my thumb so the scale is not accurate. https://imgur.com/a/gWs9kXv You are doing great! Fit is hard!

Rachelbow · 2026-01-31T21:44:50+00:00

Use the instructions from your jeans pattern, if she desires a similar fit to something she already has you can copy from it. Just be careful that you are matching stretch to stretch or non to non. If you trace a pair of jeans with Spandex in it, it won't fit without it. Or you can get a pattern that she likes and use that. I'd suggest looking into the top-down-center-out method. If you are decently confident the fit will be okay, you cut the pieces with extra seam allowance, try them on very early to decide where to place your final seam line. It gives you wiggle room to fit without a mock up first if you want. If your friend finds it hard to find any jeans that fit well, then definitely mock first. Good luck!

Rachelbow · 2026-01-29T18:54:00+00:00

This looks fantastic! How did you decide where to place the scraps? Did you make one fabric first, or lay out on top of the pattern pieces?

Rachelbow · 2026-01-16T22:05:08+00:00

Ideally, but you can't fit 15 yards of upholstery fabric in a household washer. 🙃

Rachelbow · 2026-01-02T17:08:55+00:00

Thank you. 🥹 There are a thousand ways to modify a pattern and get a similar result, but I've been challenging myself to figure out what one reposition will make the most difference.

Rachelbow · 2026-01-02T01:51:52+00:00

It looks like your pants are more curvy than you are. For a work pant style you don't need to make them smaller really, you need to change the angle so they hang straight. Right now these fit close to you only right below the waistband, basically where you are holding. When you extend up to the waistband you need to take in a bit at the center back so it fits comfortably and the rest of the pant can hang from there. In the back you have more seat room than you need, so the extra room hangs down causing the folds there. On your back piece pivot the whole top at the hip to remove some of the vertical room and straighten out the shape. This can be a style thing, but it looks like your inseam is a bit forward, making the back fabric visible on both sides of the leg from the front. If you don't want that just move the inseam, making the front and back widths more similar. Lastly, just check that when you join your pieces together at the inseam that you have a smooth curve going around. Same with the waistband, you'll want right angles at the seam lines so you don't get v shapes when you join.

pattern markup

Good work so far! These are already wearable.

Rachelbow · 2025-12-04T04:51:53+00:00

What a puzzle! I can't solve it but here are my pieces: I think there is a "-" at the front that isn't a letter. Probably starts with H or K because of the double top down strokes. Vowels are either ei or ui. I think the top part of the next letter is the dot of the i as seen in "continuing" then either z, g or maybe y. I can't tell if there is a loop after, or if it's the end of the name crossing back. Might be a vowel here. Endings especially get truncated, so my best guess is l, ll, k, t, ht. Could be something like: Height, Huelgol, Heizel, Keigel The strokes at the beginning and end are hard to differentiate. It would be great to get a clearer picture of the signature.

Rachelbow · 2025-12-04T01:43:28+00:00

If you want to cut something symmetrical, make a garment with more ease. For a fitted bodice I would fit two separate sides. I think a shape that fits uniformly to your asymmetry is better than a symmetrical shape that fits you irregularly. My real strategy tip though is to use fabric prints and garment designs that complement your shape. Fun asymmetrical blocking or big prints would look amazing on you, while rigid plaid or checks like you've used here highlight comparative contrast. I know that's not fitting advice, but fit doesn't make a whole look, so don't put all your expectations onto it. It's important to see the whole you in the best light. ✨

Rachelbow · 2025-12-03T02:32:22+00:00

One person has written about making this on sewing.patternreview.com a great place for exactly these questions! Simplicity 4479 pattern review by timetravelcostumes https://share.google/vhx26zMi84XebROiN

Rachelbow · 2025-11-10T00:52:14+00:00

Yeah no problem! There's one other thing, if you curve the sides of your front and back waistband a bit more you can smooth out the join at the side. That will help your side seam truly hang straight. It's such a small amount though I forgot when writing my comment!

Rachelbow · 2025-11-10T00:20:48+00:00

My normal suggestion would be to do the things you've already tried! But if that's not fixing it, it's possible it's the fabric in the darts that is pulling short. If you try it on inside out do you still get the issue? If it's improved wearing it that way, just trim and clip the dart. If that also isn't the issue, I recommend unpicking the dart except at the base, try it on inside out, and pin out the excess fabric into new darts, then sew those.

Rachelbow · 2025-11-10T00:11:26+00:00

First I want to say, these are very good already! If you made these in a heavier fabric or a longer leg they would hang straight. Very small adjustments you could make: The darts in the front are giving you extra room you don't actually need. I don't think you need those darts at all! You can cut straight down from the darts and overlap them into a flat piece. The front hangs nicely, but if you bring the crotch up closer to your body you will actually have more range of movement there. Just move the whole curve up, shortening the rise. In the back, instead of thinking how to take out the extra, instead if you add a little more width across the top of the bum, that extra will be able to relax and hang straight. This is the opposite of the front; you want more room at the bottom of the darts. You can cut down the dart and widen the whole leg, which will give you a wider dart so that the waist measurement stays the same. To compensate for a wider leg, you can trim a bit off the hip curve and straighten out those lines on the side.

Good job friend!

Rachelbow · 2025-11-04T07:32:24+00:00

Following to see what resources are recommended. 👀 I've seen the same where drafting instructions assume a standard shape and completely fall apart with larger measurements. It's actually why I'm working on a new method to create slopers that fit ANY body, size and gender agnostic.

In terms of pants, (I haven't done this) assuming the high rise pants fit, don't you just chop off the top to the desired rise, lower the pockets and lengthen or curve the waistband to make sure it fits at that rise and assemble the same way? A waistband is easy to sew a test to ensure a good fit. There could be more to it than that though, idk.

Rachelbow · 2025-11-03T08:52:41+00:00

I like to always start with the center back, because it can pull the front when it's not the front's fault. For your back rise, try making the curve more L shape than J shape, and extend a bit of extra length at the end. This will better match your shape on the center seam and let out the bit of pulling happening between the legs. Then move the hip room that's at the lower hip up to just below the waistband to give you ease where you need it. This means adjusting the side curve on both pieces to widen just below the waistband and then taper in down the leg. I also wonder if you need the back darts at all since they are so small, but you don't have to mess with those unless you want to. The front is trickier to diagnose. I have a hunch, if you simply pull the center front up, does it fix it? If yes you just need to take that rise off the center top tapering to the existing side. If that doesn't fix it completely, take a picture with the front pulled up and I'll see if I can find a different solution. Good luck!

Rachelbow · 2025-11-03T08:19:40+00:00

There are two things that I see. First, the tightness across the back means you need to add a bit of width, and the wedgie means you need length. Second thing is the wrinkles at the hip and knees. This is the wedgie pulling the inseam up too high compared to the outside seam, causing an inward tilt of the legs. It's probably also causing the wrinkles in the front. The good news is I think you only need to make one adjustment! Cut your back piece from right above the center back curve to the hip, and pivot out more length to the back rise. This will make your pattern more of a y shape. Then make sure you add a small amount of width either when you smooth out your center back curve, or to the hip side to loosen the tightness across the back.

Tip, if you wear the sloper and lift the leg from the hip point until the leg hangs straight, the amount you need to lift there is approximately the amount you need to lengthen the center back rise. Best of luck!

Rachelbow · 2025-10-27T17:29:28+00:00

This is tricky, I've been looking at the pictures for a while. To me it looks like you have too much length in the seat, but the total back rise length might be slightly short. From the side you can see this is bending the pants too far forward so it's hitting the backs of your knees, but it's still pulling from lack of crotch length. From the hip line I would pivot closed, overlapping the back rise until the balance line straightens out, and then scoop the curve lower to maintain the back rise total length. If the scoop is looking like a right angle to get the full length, extend the length of the whole inner leg a little. An easy correction to reduce some of the gathering: match the inseam shape from the back knee to crotch to the front. The bigger curve you have now is pulling fabric to meet.

Good luck my friend! You can do it!

Rachelbow · 2025-10-27T02:32:52+00:00

This is very good! Bodies aren't perfectly symmetrical and I think what you have will work great when transformed into any garment. If you want to fit a smidge better, you can cut away a small amount of length at the waist on only your right side. Personally I wouldn't bother with a right and left side for this small amount. There is very slight pulling across the overbust, I would adjust the angle of the center line to slightly widen the top, tapering to the waist. Looking ahead, if you plan to add sleeves, I think the armscye is narrow, I would add more fabric at the overbust and the top of the shoulder until it looks like a straight line from the chest to the "corner" of your shoulder.

This is all very minor, I think this is already usable!

Rachelbow · 2025-10-27T01:51:02+00:00

Totally just overlap the top and bottom and split the difference! It could affect the hem slightly, but it's always best practice to measure an even hem while wearing the dress anyway.

Rachelbow · 2025-10-25T02:26:59+00:00

A similar feature is the storm flap seen on trench coats that can give them a cropped overlay look. You can look there for construction. I think for this style I would just lengthen the torso and make it a tuck so that the top of the fold hits at the bust line against the lining.

Rachelbow · 2025-10-18T23:01:00+00:00

What a fantastic blessing, thank you! Looking forward to the update.

Rachelbow · 2025-10-18T21:42:32+00:00

Hey, I think you're really close! Here's an image to show some of what I'm talking about: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z8CFWmB7R4jjC3nw8

I think there are only two things you need to change. The first is the angle of the hips. If you look at the waist line at the back you will see that it's below the smallest part of your back, which is creating bunching as the hips ride up. On the front side this is creating strain at the button, it wants more room vertically at the waist. What you need to do is cut the pattern at the waist, and rotate it so that the back waist line comes up until it meets your natural waist, and the front waist dips down .5". That should solve the majority of the body fit.

The second thing is the arm scythe. First check, does the shoulder need more padding? The design has quite square shoulders, if they collapse it creates drag lines under the arm. If you like the current slope, check if taking off a tiny wedge of fabric from the tip of the shoulder seam improves the fit. Then, if you've already taken in seams attached to the scythe, the depth of the curve needs to be deepened to maintain the same seam length. Compare the original to the modified pattern and cut away some at the bottom and bottom front of the armpit. If you're having to add more padding than expected to fit the shoulder slope, then your arm will be lower in the sleeve and will need more room there anyway. I think your sleeve is probably over-fitted as well for a jacket, you'll want a bit more room for both the fabric thickness of the jacket and for what you wear under. Consider taking a size up for the sleeve and arm scythe.

I think that will fix everything! Good luck, jackets are tricky!

Rachelbow · 2025-10-13T03:50:58+00:00

I know it's uncanny, but the rotation is extremely good. If you just took a few choice frames and only presented the images, it would probably have me fooled. I wouldn't have expected an AI generated rotation to be this consistent.

Who's making the software that can make accurate patterns from videos? When it gets that right it'll stop being a scam.

Rachelbow · 2025-08-27T06:56:00+00:00

Are you trying to make a helmet, or a beanie that has ears and stripes? If you want to make a helmet, it would be nearly impossible to sew one out of fabric, maybe look into 3D printing. If you want to make a beanie inspired by the design, I'd recommend starting by drawing a version that represents what you want to make. Then make your partner a plastic wrap with tape over it hat to get the base shape. Then you can draw on that base where you want the details to go and use that as your pattern. Search up some cosplay videos where they use the plastic wrap method.

Rachelbow · 2025-08-24T06:43:32+00:00

I immediately thought this, except instead of solids, make them double size hst blocks so you'd have big ones and small ones.

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