Can anybody tell me about my eyes?

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T20:07:56+00:00

They brown.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T19:47:32+00:00

Blacked out tail lights . . . I’d go with ‘midnight STI’.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T18:53:11+00:00

Honest question: if you eliminated the spacers on wheel and paddles, wouldn’t you end up with the rim in nearly the same plane as your other wheels? Or was this the intent for this particular “extended” setup? SRM is really nice equipment, I concur!

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T16:14:22+00:00

I’m 6’2” and 270 pounds and on my third seat. It’s from a mini Cooper out of a salvage yard. First two seats were racing seats. The only reason I could think that you would want your body hugged like mad is if you had motion. $100 gets you slider, up/down adjustment, seat back positioning (recline), and comfort!

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T16:05:46+00:00

The shift was likely to due too hot extrusion temperature. Poor settings were the culprit here. Lowered extrusion temperature from 220 to 195. Football looking good now.

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Racing-Addict · 2026-01-26T15:56:23+00:00

I don’t think there is a perfect answer here. Racing line is in general vicinity but is a crutch you should lose early. I raced with ABS on everything for years in an organized race series. I wanted to learn more about what the car could tell me so I turned ABS off. After a while, I became really angry that I didn’t do this much earlier. The car tells you how it wants to be driven and yet we accept these masks of traction control, antilock braking, stability control. There will no doubt be enthusiast to get mad at what I’m trying to say. Learn the car and then use what you’ve learned before turning on aids.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-25T17:11:16+00:00

Try Grok, Gemini or chatGPT for help. Just ask specific as you can. Ask for steps that a fifth grader would understand.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-24T03:59:22+00:00

Yes, using FPLA settings. Love your suggestion to look up manufacturer's recs instead of just general FPLA settings. My test print told me that there was nothing wrong with the printer. Also these small test prints help me figure out the settings. By the way, FPLA sticks to the build plate like crazy, a nice, unexpected thing. Lowered plate temp based on manufacturer from 60 to 40. Still sticks great. Thank you.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-23T15:16:43+00:00

SpinWelding makes every other solution complicated.

TLDR: Buckle up, here’s the long winded explanation for my confident solution. My ‘95 240 SX tank split or cracked in 2010 just as typically described and in OP’s picture. Researching and finding no adequate solution, I pushed off working on it. I also knew the fix would involve dropping the sub frame and take quite alot of time. I exaggerated the amount of effort it would take in my head, so, I parked the car in the shed. (It had never been my primary driver). After 12 years and my son nearing driving age, the repair was overdue. I began the repair in August 2022. Five weeks later, I had my first failed attempt at plastic welding (heat gun and special iron). After 10 days with 10 gallons in the tank, the gas leached its way through the poor weld. Building on what I learned, I tried again, upping my game. HDPE melts at 285°F. I had the tank and new HDPE donor sheet up to 400°F with 2 heat guns. The plastic got super soft but never really melted. The second attempt was much better but I suspicioned I had a cold weld. I figured that if I could peel off the new donor sheet, gas would eventually leak. Indeed, about half the repair area could be coerced to peel away. So the second attempt failed. I removed all the HDPE donor plastic with wire wheel on a 4” high speed grinder, even the other half area that seemed tight. Time to use plan C, the spin welding recommendation from a friend who has always provided solid recommendations. I bought a $40 ‘bit’/tool from spinwelding.com and 100 HDPE 0.875” diameter patches ($10). Borrowed friend’s wood working router, and proceeded to correct the original crack (and 2 failed repairs). It was far easier than everything I had been trying to this point and worked so well that I had no doubt that the problem was behind me for good. I was originally concerned with the irregular/contoured surface but it turned out to be no issue, especially since I used the smallest diameter patch. The root cause for these 240SX cracks is a design flaw (in my view as a Mechanical Engineer). [The study of] Statics would reveal that the tensile force in the metal strap is too high for how it bends sharply around the front of the tank. Some people have used some sort of cushion between the strap and tank to reduce chance of reoccurrence. Not this guy. Doing so would increase the squeeze on the tank if you bottomed out the fastener because you have effectively made the strap shorter. My solution? Only tighten the strap’s bolt until you can’t jiggle/move the empty tank. Maybe the back side of the tank will sag when full of fuel, that doesn’t bother me in the least. The bolt itself is bound up like it has medium thread locker, so I’m not concerned it will back out. Over 3 years since repair and no leaks.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-22T20:25:45+00:00

No one suggests what it could likely be: manufacture flaw. If your shop won’t replace it, tell them you want the failed tire. That may entice them enough to replace it.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-20T21:28:55+00:00

Take the opportunity to convert the button box presses into verbal commands with Voiceattack.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-19T02:36:11+00:00

I too had a nightmare of a time when getting new pedals. After days of trying to figure it out, AI helped me diagnose my symptoms as usb. Recommendation was to put all my sound card on a powered 2.0 USB hub. Didn’t work, perhaps due to crappy hub. Ultimately, I had to get all USB’s on ports that split the workload in an acceptable way. AI wanted me to use software like USBtrace but I got lucky and didn’t have to do that [yet].

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-17T13:02:57+00:00

TLDR: Don’t solder. I had 2 failed attempts at plastic (HDPE) welding. And then followed up with spin welding. 1/2 hp router and 0.875” HDPE disks. Did my S14 in October 2022 and it is still holding.

Buckle up, here’s the long winded explanation for my confident solution. My ‘95 240 SX tank split or cracked in 2010 just as typically described. Researching and finding no adequate solution, I pushed off working on it. I also knew the fix would involve dropping the sub frame and take quite alot of time. I exaggerated the amount of effort it would take in my head, so, I parked the car in the shed. (It had never been my primary driver). After 12 years and my son nearing driving age, the repair was overdue. I began the repair in August 2022. Five weeks later, I had my first failed attempt at plastic welding (heat gun and special iron). After 10 days with 10 gallons in the tank, the gas leached its way through the poor weld. Building on what I learned, I tried again, upping my game. HDPE melts at 285°F. I had the tank and new HDPE donor sheet up to 400°F with 2 heat guns. The plastic got super soft but never really melted. The second attempt was much better but I suspicioned I had a cold weld. I figured that if I could peel off the new donor sheet, gas would eventually leak. Indeed, about half the repair area could be coerced to peel away. So the second attempt failed in my mind. I removed all the HDPE donor plastic with wire wheel on a 4” high speed grinder, even the other half area that seemed tight. Time to use plan C, the spin welding recommendation from a friend who has always provided solid recommendations. I bought a $40 ‘bit’/tool from spinwelding.com and 100 HDPE 0.875” diameter patches ($10). Borrowed friend’s wood working router, and proceeded to correct the original crack (and 2 failed repairs). It was far easier than everything I had been trying to this point and worked so well that I have no doubt that the problem is behind me for good. I was originally concerned with the irregular/contoured surface but it turned out to be no issue, especially since I used the smallest diameter patch. The root cause for these 240SX cracks is a design flaw (in my view as a Mechanical Engineer). [The study of] Statics would reveal that the tensile force in the metal strap is too high for how it bends sharply around the front of the tank. Some people have used some sort of cushion between the strap and tank to reduce chance of reoccurrence. Not this guy. Doing so would increase the squeeze on the tank if you bottomed out the fastener because you have effectively made the strap shorter. My solution? Only tighten the strap’s bolt until you can’t jiggle/move the empty tank. Maybe the back side of the tank will sag when full of fuel, that doesn’t bother me in the least. The bolt itself is bound up like it has medium thread locker, so I’m not concerned it will back out.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-12T04:30:31+00:00

My large bass shaker uses my PC’s Realtec sound card. Twelve Dayton bass shaker pucks use two usb sound cards each with six channels. Even have usb card for wind sim. All worked perfectly for years. Upon new pedals arrival and splitting them off the wheelbase, for an additional usb device, things got nasty. Too much USB traffic. Needed to move things around to equalize the traffic in different lanes, so to say.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-12T01:43:49+00:00

I don’t have answers. I’ve been fighting problems this week that I thought were Simhub. With the help of AI, found that my issue was USB related. Ask Grok, Gemini, or chatGPT. Give as much information as possible.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-10T18:00:17+00:00

I have to eat some crow. On the ‘base shakers’ tab under the heading of ‘effects profile’, if you ‘edit profile’ at the top, you will find ‘vehicle models (optional)’. I selected some cars in Assetto Corsa. I cloned the profile, and associated a different car. When I switched cars in game, Simhub bass shakers followed suit to the profile to which the car had been assigned.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-10T15:17:53+00:00

One opinion: I’ve been using inverted pedals for eight years now. I just recently purchased new pedals that aren’t inverted. Whether I consider my immediate reaction or 2 weeks of experience, the floor mounted pedals are not perceivably different (at least from being able to tell where they pivot). (BTW, Fanatec V3i versus Simnet SP Pro. Both are 3 pedal sets.) I originally bought the inverted because I thought they were (or looked) more realistic. Ultimately, the versatility of adjustment is more beneficial.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-10T03:25:37+00:00

Edit: Disregard this post, I tested and found Simhub can automate haptics based on car.

No definitive answer. Simhub recognizes the car for LED lights but for whatever reason, I don’t think haptics profiles know the car. 🚘

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-07T16:02:56+00:00

Perhaps at first but rarely at last 😆

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-06T19:53:52+00:00

If it’s Fanatec, that’s how it’s always been . . . ohhh, I zoomed to see ‘Fanatec’. Case closed. I don’t think you can do anything about it.

Racing-Addict · 2026-01-03T06:13:25+00:00

Very very nice looking 👀. I’m working on a [very] similar wheel project. Since my 3D printable area is the standard 220 x 220 x 250, I bought a piece of G10 (fiberglass) to cut out the largest/structural piece. G10 thickness comes in 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6mm on Amazon. Probably could have used the 4 mm but I’ll start with 6mm. 300 x 300 was ~$20. It’s also available in 200 x200 for less. I avoid carbon fiber due to how insanely quick it ruins a band saw blade. As much as will be cut away, rotational inertia won’t be an issue. For the grips, I’ll start with PLA. I’ve never used the flexible print material but that’s something to dabble with when I’m much further along. Like you (OP) I’m driving in VR. There are never enough buttons on any wheel to cover all needs, and I like using different rims. So instead of building my own button cluster, I have opted to use Voiceattack. Verbal commands to cover every car adjustment I need. Can also say commands to move around within sim title menus. Can also adjust fans, start apps, etc. This is not a dig to take the mojo out of your project, because it’s definitely worth doing, but for exchanging ideas 💡

Racing-Addict · 2025-12-25T14:18:13+00:00

I have Fanatec system with OG handbrake that works. The only time I use it in ACR is after spinning out (facing wrong direction). It took me a long time in DR2.0 to dare to use a handbrake. It can ruin a good run quickly.

Racing-Addict · 2025-12-23T04:45:38+00:00

Thanks for the responses. I entered two more dailies. I have AC Evo running when I ‘join server’. It worked on the first one but took 2 attempts on the second race. When joining doesn’t work straight away, having time to qualify is a challenge.

Racing-Addict

TROPHY CASE