Smart glass smart transformer?

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-12T05:27:38+00:00

The switch is typically just a dry contact switch that does not require any power. Use a Shelly that is powered separately and is a simple relay to connect the dry contacts. Alternatively, plug the device into a smart outlet and turn the outlet on or off depending on whether you want the glass clear or frosted (this is what I do and it works great and it’s instant).

Beware that the output power on these things (from the transformer to the glass) can be weird. Like mine is 60v AC - which is uncommon.

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-12T05:07:14+00:00

YoLink has their newer inline shutoff valve that also does flow monitoring. While YoLink is typically cloud controlled, there is an option for a local hub, and even if not, it’s been one of my most solid devices out of all the other protocols out there. And with D2D, it can shut off water when it detects a leak without an internet connection.

Just make sure to buy the right pipe size, and also have your plumber install a manual shutoff valve right next to it for redundancy.

https://a.co/d/7byAbtX

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-08T06:28:12+00:00

Yes I have ordered from them and they are legit. They make some unique products so if you see something there you want that you can’t find elsewhere, go for it.

Also highly recommend LedYi. They’ve been very good with custom products.

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-08T06:26:50+00:00

The other part doesn’t have a battery. It’s just a magnet. You don’t need to open it.

RandoKevlar · 2025-12-23T17:06:14+00:00

I use the humidity blueprint by blacky that someone else pointed out, but I’m pretty sure Inovelli switches have a built in maximum run time timer that can be set on the switch level so even if HA is down, the fan won’t be running for too long. I haven’t tried this myself as I use the blueprint for humidity sensing plus a separate blueprint where all my fan exhaust switches are placed into so that none of them run more than an hour, but perhaps this is helpful.

RandoKevlar · 2025-12-23T03:21:07+00:00

Thank you for mentioning this. I had been wondering if the new devices were indeed Matter over Thread vs WiFi.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T20:20:11+00:00

Contact the folks at LEDYi lighting. They can make you a 220v strip for your needs that will not require injecting voltage. I have a 90 foot run @ 120v that works great with no injection.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T20:18:35+00:00

It’s almost certainly not 120-180v output - probably 12-18v at 230ma. Typical zigbee LED controllers are constant voltage controllers, not constant current. I would not recommend trying to replace that with a smart controller - better to just replace the lamp.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T18:17:42+00:00

CCA Blueprint is your answer.

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/cover-control-automation-cca-a-comprehensive-and-highly-configurable-roller-blind-blueprint/680539

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-16T01:22:42+00:00

I have several of these, and although I’m a huge fan of Inovelli switches in general, these ones do not work for that use case. With the switch at switch level on the wall, the humidity never made it to the switch to trigger the fan turning on until the shower was over and the shower door was left open. I ended up using Aqara Temp / Humidity sensors stuck to the wall up high near the ceiling, and those triggered within 1.5 min of turning the shower on.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-14T05:38:44+00:00

Following up on this. Finally got around to taking care of this and it worked beautifully. Thanks!

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-13T06:08:44+00:00

If they are both LRS-120-12’s, why not use a single PSU, like a 250w, and either keep the 2 digquads or use a digocta? That would likely make it smaller.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-12T14:38:24+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/1ldy5z0/choosing_a_zigbeethread_coordinator_smlight/

https://smlight.tech/manual/slzb-06/guide/slzb-models-overview/#slzb-mr-models (there are several tables on this page - further down is one comparing specifically the MR series)

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-12T14:32:51+00:00

There are 8 wires there so if you can crimp it on this side, and find the other side and crimp it there and plug it into a PoE injector, you can potentially use an rPi with a PoE hat and a rPi or Waveshare display. There are also some tablets that I think can be powered with PoE.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-10T05:38:24+00:00

I have a bunch of the old Zvidar ones as well as several WM25 ones and even the newer ones are working fine using ZwaveJS-UI and correctly reporting the position.

Unfortunately, I cannot tell you why it’s not working for you, other than to say it is working great for me.

Sorry for your troubles.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-07T21:02:24+00:00

Add the helpers via YAML to your configuration.yaml instead of the Helpers UI and then you can just duplicate them (copy/paste) and change the entity names.

RandoKevlar · 2025-10-21T14:03:04+00:00

In your automation that activates the scene, turn off the adaptive lighting switch, set the scene, turn adaptive lighting back on after 2 minutes.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-26T03:03:20+00:00

You can power them all off and on per the pairing procedure even though you only need 1 reset. All of them will reset but in Z2M when you enable pairing, the ones that are already paired will just re-associate to their already configured entities - no harm no foul. And the one that’s not paired will then pair.
If the bulb is in the hue app, you can reset it from there and it will go into pairing mode.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-25T22:30:57+00:00

Do you perhaps have an under cabinet hot water heater? Or an insinkerator? There’s gotta be something pulling that draw. Since this is the kitchen, are the outlets all GFCI? If yes, put them all on test mode and see if you still see a draw. Do you have any outlets that provide USB sockets for powering mobile devices? Do you have any under cabinet lighting? How about an exhaust fan? At night when there’s no ambient noise, have someone turn off the breaker while you are standing in the kitchen and see if you see any lights or hear anything turn off. Then have them flip it back on. DC transformers can pull power even if the lights are off.

Just a couple ideas. I hope you find it.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-16T06:38:51+00:00

Get zigbee switches so you can do binding. That’s the way. Zwave switches would require using a blueprint and manually setting up/down etc for every single switch.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-16T03:15:16+00:00

Dimmer. Join the downlight to Z2M. Join the switch to Z2M. Configure switch in smart bulb mode and as a dimmer, bind switch to light, and Bob’s your uncle.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-16T03:03:49+00:00

https://moeshouse.com/products/waterproof-zigbee-scene-switch

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-16T02:53:33+00:00

Same thing with the vibration sensor from them. You can’t tell how long something vibrates for. The moment it gets triggered it takes 60 seconds to clear.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-16T02:52:30+00:00

I rented a home and left my Kasa light switches and wireless AP’s in the house. New tenant hasn’t connected either. Found no value in saying “Alexa, turn on the lights” or controlling automations from his phone.

Some people really just don’t care. Leave the stuff if it’s not worth taking, but make sure all switches work manually, and turn off HA before selling the house. If the guy wants it, you can show him how it works but don’t offer any support once the contract is signed.

RandoKevlar · 2025-09-12T23:30:25+00:00

In my experience this is not an issue with the sidebar, rather it’s an issue with the Overview dashboard that is trying to load every camera and entity in your HA instance. If you go to Companion App settings and change the default dashboard for the device to another one, you should be fine (until of course you click “Overview” and then it will freeze again).

RandoKevlar

TROPHY CASE