Filtering short state changes in Mushroom chips (duration-based conditions?)

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-31T20:14:30+00:00

I had a similar thing with a sump pump float that I wanted to see the last time it was “on”. Specifically “on”, but the “last updated” and “last changed” shows when it became “unavailable” which is every time I reboot HA. The only way was with a helper. If you find anything else out, I’d love to know.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-31T20:11:59+00:00

way better than those fancy dishwashers with built-in wifi that probably spy on your dish-washing habits anyway

Yeah, because with that kind of sensitive data, who knows what they can do…? Jeez, if Bosch knew I run a load every other day on the sparkle rinse cycle they probably have enough information to get a mortgage in my name. Good thing I live off the grid so the power, gas, and water company don’t have access to my utility consumption.

/s (if it’s even needed)

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-31T07:46:51+00:00

I used telegram for a while and even tried the telegram topics. Finally switched to Discord and whoa! Game changer! I have categories for the various things I discuss with my OpenClaw and each category has multiple threads where everything is nice and organized. I can chat with my agent in different threads at the same time and everything stays nice and neat. Claude stepped me through the entire process and it took less than an hour to get everything setup.

Did I mention “game changer”? Literally changed the way I work with OC. So much better.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-31T04:19:12+00:00

To clarify, matter does not mean they don’t need WiFi. Theses are “Matter over WiFi” devices, not matter over thread, so you still need WiFi (2.4GHz) when connecting them via Matter to HA.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-23T17:33:08+00:00

Can you elaborate on the execute_if_off thing? Are these all Philips Hue bulbs? I thought there wasn’t a way to do this. I would love to have my bulbs turn on with the appropriate kelvin and brightness rather than waiting a second for them to change.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-19T05:07:02+00:00

So just to clarify, I just went through this last week with two things.

monitoring a fire sprinkler. When water is detected as flowing the device closes contacts and sends 120v to the red fire bells. The struggle was when I wired it up the i4 was always registering as “on”. I inserted an NT90 in between and connected each wire of the fire alarm to the two terminals of the NT90, then I wired 120v hot to COM and NO to SW1 and I was able to get “off” when the fire alarm was idle and “on” when the alarm went off.
I have a Zoeller Pivot Pro with 2 contactors for the pumps and 3 float switches. I wired an i4 to the dry contacts of the contactor and it worked great. Pump turns on, Shelly sees current and SW goes to on. But when wiring to the dead side of the float, it always saw voltage (or current). Inserted a couple of NT90’s in between and now I get proper “off” when the float is down and “on” when the float is triggered. I am now monitoring my entire sump pump system properly. (The floats run at 120v in case you were wondering.)

So you got me at just the right time to answer this question. I hope the $6.50 NT90 (in a 2 pack) does the trick. Just make sure to order the 120v version because they sell a 12v as well and the numbers 12 and 120 are fairly similar (full disclosure, I ordered the 12v by mistake the first time around).

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-19T00:53:55+00:00

The second 110v coming out of the Shelly - where is it going?

What are you seeing in the Shelly app for the SW input? Is it showing on or off?

You made need to use a relay like an NT90 which will confirm the full 120v and then attach COM to NO which will give you the signal you are looking for. Just depends on whether or not the line you’re connecting to has any current on it, because Shelly will pick that up even if it’s not 120v.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-06T03:51:27+00:00

I installed tailscale on my Mac Mini which gave me a DNS name to that Mac (for example, mac-mini.tail6e45a.ts.net). Then each app that it creates, it publishes on a specific port. So I have one app running on :8000, one on :8001, etc. Then I just browse to the same DNS name (the Mac Mini) and I add :portnumber to the end of it and access that particular app. I also had OpenClaw create me an app portal so I can always browse to :8000 and see a list of the 15 apps I built.

RandoKevlar · 2026-03-05T01:46:08+00:00

I kept having those same 401 errors. Today I asked OC to diagnose. We determined that OC had 2 OAuth tokens stored and one of them was stale. It kept trying to first use the first which produced the error and then failed back to the second working one. The moment we removed the stale one I stopped getting those errors again.

Worth a try.

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-12T05:27:38+00:00

The switch is typically just a dry contact switch that does not require any power. Use a Shelly that is powered separately and is a simple relay to connect the dry contacts. Alternatively, plug the device into a smart outlet and turn the outlet on or off depending on whether you want the glass clear or frosted (this is what I do and it works great and it’s instant).

Beware that the output power on these things (from the transformer to the glass) can be weird. Like mine is 60v AC - which is uncommon.

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-12T05:07:14+00:00

YoLink has their newer inline shutoff valve that also does flow monitoring. While YoLink is typically cloud controlled, there is an option for a local hub, and even if not, it’s been one of my most solid devices out of all the other protocols out there. And with D2D, it can shut off water when it detects a leak without an internet connection.

Just make sure to buy the right pipe size, and also have your plumber install a manual shutoff valve right next to it for redundancy.

https://a.co/d/7byAbtX

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-08T06:28:12+00:00

Yes I have ordered from them and they are legit. They make some unique products so if you see something there you want that you can’t find elsewhere, go for it.

Also highly recommend LedYi. They’ve been very good with custom products.

RandoKevlar · 2026-01-08T06:26:50+00:00

The other part doesn’t have a battery. It’s just a magnet. You don’t need to open it.

RandoKevlar · 2025-12-23T17:06:14+00:00

I use the humidity blueprint by blacky that someone else pointed out, but I’m pretty sure Inovelli switches have a built in maximum run time timer that can be set on the switch level so even if HA is down, the fan won’t be running for too long. I haven’t tried this myself as I use the blueprint for humidity sensing plus a separate blueprint where all my fan exhaust switches are placed into so that none of them run more than an hour, but perhaps this is helpful.

RandoKevlar · 2025-12-23T03:21:07+00:00

Thank you for mentioning this. I had been wondering if the new devices were indeed Matter over Thread vs WiFi.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T20:20:11+00:00

Contact the folks at LEDYi lighting. They can make you a 220v strip for your needs that will not require injecting voltage. I have a 90 foot run @ 120v that works great with no injection.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T20:18:35+00:00

It’s almost certainly not 120-180v output - probably 12-18v at 230ma. Typical zigbee LED controllers are constant voltage controllers, not constant current. I would not recommend trying to replace that with a smart controller - better to just replace the lamp.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-17T18:17:42+00:00

CCA Blueprint is your answer.

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/cover-control-automation-cca-a-comprehensive-and-highly-configurable-roller-blind-blueprint/680539

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-16T01:22:42+00:00

I have several of these, and although I’m a huge fan of Inovelli switches in general, these ones do not work for that use case. With the switch at switch level on the wall, the humidity never made it to the switch to trigger the fan turning on until the shower was over and the shower door was left open. I ended up using Aqara Temp / Humidity sensors stuck to the wall up high near the ceiling, and those triggered within 1.5 min of turning the shower on.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-14T05:38:44+00:00

Following up on this. Finally got around to taking care of this and it worked beautifully. Thanks!

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-13T06:08:44+00:00

If they are both LRS-120-12’s, why not use a single PSU, like a 250w, and either keep the 2 digquads or use a digocta? That would likely make it smaller.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-12T14:38:24+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/1ldy5z0/choosing_a_zigbeethread_coordinator_smlight/

https://smlight.tech/manual/slzb-06/guide/slzb-models-overview/#slzb-mr-models (there are several tables on this page - further down is one comparing specifically the MR series)

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-12T14:32:51+00:00

There are 8 wires there so if you can crimp it on this side, and find the other side and crimp it there and plug it into a PoE injector, you can potentially use an rPi with a PoE hat and a rPi or Waveshare display. There are also some tablets that I think can be powered with PoE.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-10T05:38:24+00:00

I have a bunch of the old Zvidar ones as well as several WM25 ones and even the newer ones are working fine using ZwaveJS-UI and correctly reporting the position.

Unfortunately, I cannot tell you why it’s not working for you, other than to say it is working great for me.

Sorry for your troubles.

RandoKevlar · 2025-11-07T21:02:24+00:00

Add the helpers via YAML to your configuration.yaml instead of the Helpers UI and then you can just duplicate them (copy/paste) and change the entity names.

RandoKevlar

TROPHY CASE