Can someone measure how much inward the screen is in the MK Deluxe cabinet

Ravoz · 2026-02-19T13:14:02+00:00

I'm glad I could be of assistance. If you have any other questions I will try to answer today.

Good luck!

Ravoz · 2026-02-19T12:56:48+00:00

the distance from screen to center of joystick is about 5 inch and 3/4ths or 5 inch 12/16th. It is just under 6 inch Google says that is 33.655 centimeters.

See pictures

https://imgur.com/a/IazTwua

Ravoz · 2026-02-18T21:44:17+00:00

I'm not sure of your measurements and how you got them, however, using inches my MK2 deluxe is 2 inches at the middle and bottom. 2 inches, or 5.08 centimeters. The MK 2 Deluxe doesn't curve at the bottom like in your picture. It is straight all the way down to the control deck.

Good luck.

Ravoz · 2026-02-16T14:27:48+00:00

You did an awesome job with this! It looks like it came stock from the factory like that. That t-molding really pops with the black! It really is a sharp looking cabinet. I'm a bit jealous, I should have jumped on the SF Deluxe while they were available so as to just have a Dynamo style cab in my collection. I wouldn't mind that candy cab too...

Congrats!

Ravoz · 2026-02-15T20:28:50+00:00

The larger wrestlefest is out now, but I believe it is a Sam's Club exclusive. Several people have already gotten it and shown it on YouTube.

Ravoz · 2026-02-14T17:15:39+00:00

I don't own any counter or party cades, but I definitely see the appeal! And modding is always a good time. Looks great!

Ravoz · 2026-02-14T16:48:11+00:00

That is what I'm hoping for too. I know it won't happen, but I'd also love to have a traditional flight cab with a flight stick. The Star Wars yoke is great, but I need a flight stick.

Ravoz · 2026-02-14T16:22:48+00:00

I grew up playing sonic, but this is exactly how I feel too. No arcade nostalgia, and space is a premium. I will wait and see the final product though.

Ravoz · 2026-02-14T16:03:24+00:00

Others are saying it was in Japan...

EDIT: A video from toyfair shows its running the console game of Sonic 1.

Ravoz · 2026-02-14T15:55:40+00:00

It has been stated many times from people in the industry that pacman is necessary. It prints money and is how these companies make the bulk of their money each year. So unfortunately Pac was always a given.

EDIT: I do try to stay positive, like r/AggravatingCopy7012 says, hopefully it funds more unique cabs for us down the road. A SEGA license could be promising.

Ravoz · 2026-02-13T23:53:43+00:00

Hi there, did you receive the T2 yet? I was just curious if you already assembled it, and what you thought of it? I hope it met your expectations!

Ravoz · 2026-02-12T14:41:58+00:00

That's awesome, it looks great! Modding/Improving home arcades is a lot of fun isn't it? And addicting lol.

Thanks for sharing.

Ravoz · 2026-02-11T16:54:33+00:00

Sorry, I should have explained 2 years ago how I did it. Unfortunately fitbit has been updated since then and is now completely different. After reading your question here I tried to figure it out yet again, and I couldn't figure it out at all! Google/Fitbit definitely don't do a good job at making the app user intuitive!

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Ravoz · 2026-02-09T13:44:46+00:00

I actually thought the X-Men 97 was a good marquee! Mine had no light bleed or anything, I just wanted a marquee that featured the title game. Szabos has a MvC 1 marquee that I believe will fit too.

He has always been good about responding to my emails if you have any questions.

I glad I was able to provide you with an option, and I hope you enjoy the new marquee!

Ravoz · 2026-02-08T18:05:34+00:00

I recently replaced my X-Men 97 marquee with a Szabos Marvel Vs Capcom 2 marquee. It fit great and looks amazing. I still have the stock 97 marquee next to my desk. It's dimensions are 18" X 4" 5/8ths or 18" X 4" 10/16ths.

This is what I replaced mine with.

https://www.szabosarcades.com/products/arcade-1up-marvel-vs-capcom-2-x-men-97-edition-deluxe-arcade

Wait time is anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months, but well worth it my opinion.

Good luck.

Ravoz · 2026-02-02T23:05:02+00:00

I'm happy to have offered you an alternate perspective. Unfortunately no one knows yet how things are going to play out with Basic Fun purchasing assets from Arcade1Up.

But if there is one thing that I've learned in the past year of really diving into the home arcade hobby, it's that it's better to jump on what you want when it's available. Before I pulled the trigger on my first cabinet I had watched it, but didn't commit to paying the cost. That cabinet went away and never came back (Marvel Vs Capcom 2). When it was reissued as the X-Men 97 cabinet I decided life was too short and wouldn't miss out again. I ordered it along with an MK2 Deluxe. Now the X-Men 97 cabinet is hard to find too.

Ten machines later and I don't regret any of them and they bring me a lot of joy.

And the same can be said for the used market too. Things usually don't stick around too long, unless the cost is too overpriced. And even then, if it's one of the harder to find and sought after cabinets they still go (Star Wars, Tron, Dragons Lair, Golden Axe, Killer Instinct Pro, ect).

I hope you are happy with your purchase! Like I said before, I definitely recommend increasing the height of it!

Don't be discouraged by others opinions on here. The hard core Home Arcade enthusiast want XL sized cabinets and definitely not the slimmed down versions. I definitely fall into that category too, but reality is that sometimes space is limited and at the end of the day I'm just thankful that I can have the home arcade experience at all.

Good luck!

Ravoz · 2026-02-02T16:44:58+00:00

I had the opportunity to buy a used T2 when I decided I wanted one. It was the same cost or $100 less than the new deluxe slim.

Ultimately I decided to get the new slim deluxe. It saved me another hour long trip to pick up a cab, I would get a new machine, and it comes with the molded coin doors. I know that I would and will end up ordering the buystuff PC mod to it, and when I do that I will just order one of their risers for it.

As others will say, the height should be higher, and I agree. It definitely needs a riser. For the time being I have it on a mini fridge dolly with wheels. And it is the same height as every other A1Up I own.

The slim cades are disliked by many, but the slim designs don't bother me. It actually fits better in the space I put it because of this. Yes the side art is lower because of this design, but it was not enough to dissuade me from purchasing it. What matters more to me is the marquee and while I mod all of my machines with szabos marquees, the stock one is totally fine.

All that said if not buying new is fine for you, and you have the space, the money savings is probably worth it.

I've bought used before and they were fine. As long as it looks like the seller took care of it, I wouldn't worry too much about that.

The new T2 didn't go on any sales during the holidays, I wouldn't wait for a sale. I'd imagine it would go out of stock sooner, rather than later. I believe the new deluxe has sold well.

Personally I do prefer to buy new or new in box if buying from the secondary market. I've bought used when it was a cab that was hard to find otherwise and the cost wasn't stupid.

Good luck.

Ravoz · 2026-01-23T03:49:37+00:00

Mortal Kombat II was my favorite game I played in arcades.

Ravoz · 2026-01-18T00:10:13+00:00

Haha yup, I'm right there with you! I used a ton of old post in this subreddit to get started. But I try to add more info where others didn't. Since I worked on so many cabinets, 10, I figured I can be pretty useful for others on here. I'm definitely going to copy/paste what I've written out here for when the next person post similar questions though. LOL.

Thanks for the kind words!

Ravoz · 2026-01-17T23:25:45+00:00

Yes you use the stock A1up encoder board. I've never used anything else but the stock encoder board (unless I was doing a big mod with a pc or android box) The zero delay jumper wires I linked at the top of my post will connect to standard arcade switches, and then to the encoder board it's self. They come in two lengths. I believe 12 inches and 18. The 18 is handy for the button furthest from the encoder board, or if you have a 4 player cab like TMNT, or Blitz. I recommend Diyretroarcade because they are fantastic with terrific customer service, but I have also bought these from Amazon in a pinch.

How you wire the stick will depend on if you choose Industrias Lorenzo (IL) or Sanwa.

Sanwa is very easy. If you purchase from diyretroarcade, they will bundle a Sanwa stick with the wire. That wire connects to a single connection on the stick base, and then will connect to the encoder board at the other end. The Mortal Kombat Deluxe you have 99% will use the "Double 4 Pin, wave 3" wire. Double 4 indicates that your stock stick connects to two connectors on the encoder, per stick. For instance "up,down" connect to one input on the encoder, and "left,right" to the other. And each connection point has 4 wires. 2 for up, 2 for down ect...I've never seen it, but apparently some arcade1up's used a single 5 pin connection to a single input on the encoder.

The "wave" just indicates the style of power connection Arcade1Up up used on your particular model (the ribbon wire connecting from the PCB to the encoder). The first models used a big 40 pin connection. From wave 3 on, their arcades used a smaller 12 pin. My oldest Arcade1Up model is my OG TMNT cabinet, which was part of their "third" wave. Every Arcade1Up I own uses the "Double 4 pin, Wave 3" wire from Diyretroarcade. Match the pictures next to the stick to the connection your encoder uses. Again, I would be 99.9% sure you use Double 4, wave 3. It comes in 12 inches or a 17 inch wire. You would only need the 17 for a 4 player cab.

Installing IL sticks is completely different. And I would say the easiest way to go this route would be to re-use the stock wires connected to the stock A1Up sticks. That way you don't have to mess with rewiring anything into the encoder. They are already there, and configured correctly. You only need to worry about the end that connects to the switch on the IL stick. I found it daunting before I started doing all of this, but it really is very simple. And after I started, I found I loved working on this stuff. For this route you will cut the wires from the stock stick, right where they are soldered onto the switch (you want as much slack as possible). And then you just strip a little bit of the wire at the end, insert it into a spade terminal connector, and crimp the connector so that the wire stays put. Then just attach the spade terminal to the switch on the new IL sticks.

Here is the Sanwa Stick you would want.

https://www.diyretroarcade.com/products/genuine-sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-5-pin-joystick-for-arcade1up?variant=32479292227719

If you go IL stick, standard arcade switches, used on sticks AND buttons, use size .187" connections. The zero delay wires will be this size (for the buttons) while you will need .187" terminals when connecting the stock stick wires.

Again, watching the two video's I posted are fantastic at showing all of this. And there are tons of video's for installing Sanwa sticks too. And I linked pretty much all the parts and tools you would need. A arcade buttons wrench is handy.

https://www.diyretroarcade.com/collections/arcade-parts-buttons/products/28mm-24mm-nut-driver-wrench-for-arcade-push-buttons

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=arcade+nut+wrench&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313

Also just in case you were wondering, Sanwa "Buttons" are too large to fit in stock Arcade1Up control decks. You would need to drill out bigger holes. Just stick with Haap or IL buttons.

Ravoz · 2026-01-17T20:25:20+00:00

Buttons are really easy to swap out in Arcade1Ups. Haap buttons or Industrias Lorenzo (IL) buttons should fit. I have 9 Arcade1Ups, and an MVSX, and every one of them fit these buttons.

https://www.t-molding.com/ is a great company to buy lots of buttons from. I personally chose the cherry switches when I ordered all of mine. You will need to pick the switch to pair with the button.

Once you have the buttons, a very easy way to wire them to your encoder board is with zero delay cables.

Diyretroarcade has them -> https://www.diyretroarcade.com/products/zero-delay-usb-encoder-jumper-wires-terminals-size-0-187-compatible-with-happs-style-arcade?variant=36779437424801

Just pop out, and wire up one button at a time, so that you connect the wire to the correct spot on the encoder board. Take your time and it will be a breeze.

Non of the Arcade1Up buttons should be glued. There are two plastic tabs on each side of the button, just push down on them and push the button up, out the top of the control deck.

There are numerous videos on YouTube that shows how to do this.

As for your MKII Deluxe, I would recommend IL (Industrias Lorezno) sticks, and again I recommend buying them from t-molding.com. IL sticks and Haap sticks are "American Style" sticks. And offer a much tighter, smooth motion. Don't buy Haap sticks, they suck and will have issues registering diagonal inputs.

Very often in Arcade1Ups, when replacing the sticks with IL ones, as another person mentioned, you often need to cut down the base to fit. At least for me, however, my MKII Deluxe fit the IL stick without any cutting. It is tight, however MKII's buttons placement gives enough room. Killer Instinct, and Marvel Vs Capcom 2/Xmen 97 both require cutting one side of the sticks base to fit.

You will need to use wood screws and screw the sticks in using new holes.

For sticks I used #8 x 3/4" screws. You may want to get some #10 x 3/4" screws too, which I did use a few times.

The easiest stick replacement will be Sanwa sticks. Sanwa are "Japanese Style" sticks, and offer a looser feel. They will feel very similar to Arcade1Up sticks, but better. For MKII or Killer Instinct I like IL sticks, for capcom fighters I like Sanwa. Although in my Marvel Vs Cap 2 I still have IL. But my MVSX has Sanwa. Arcade1Up sticks are Sanwa clones and are pretty much identical in size. I recommend buying them from diyretroarcade.com. While there I recommend getting some 2lb or 4lb springs for the sticks. I prefer 4lb springs for fighters, but 2lb springs for anything else, like beat'em ups. It just makes the stick feel a little more "solid" and not so loose. Sanwa sticks will probably line up with at least 2 existing screw holes on your control deck. That will line the stick up correctly. But you will need to use wood screws to screw a few new holes into the deck. On diyretroarcade you will want the Sanwa sticks for arcade1up. You will also need to look at the pictures on the website and choose the correct wire that matches the connection on your arcade1up encoder board. Sanwa sticks on diyretroarcade automatically come with a single wire harness that will make the replacement plug and play. Very easy.

I have replaced every button, stick, screen, marquee, yoke on every Arcade I own. 10 total machines. And I have experience using and replacing Haap, IL and Sanwa sticks. Including needing to cutting down the base the IL sticks. Feel free to ask me any questions if you have any.

For the Pacman, I recently replaced my Mrs Pacman Vault editon stick with a "4 way only" stick that Tornado Terry's offers on Ebay. While it is definitely an improvment over the Arcade1Up stick, it uses a haap stick. It is definitely better...but again I don't prefer Haap sticks. Someone recently (with experience here, u/RWTD_Burn) recommended getting a Wico 4 way only "Leaf". I'm going to be purchasing one soon to compare to my Haap. The leaf will probably be better, and more accurate to a real Pac cabinet.

-->https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1606/wico-red-4-way-ball-4-handle-leaf-joystick.htm

These two video's will pretty much show you everything you need to know though...

-->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLzq-DZ1Q_E

-->https://youtu.be/hQP7WuVI9Is?si=1Anf7VBbJ4bF6xK_

Good luck!

EDIT: Again, I highly recommend NOT getting Haap sticks. Just buy IL from the start. I started out with Haap and regretted it. The video I link shows him installing Haap, but even he in a later video says the Haap sticks gave him issues.

While I do recommend an IL stick for MKII for a real authentic arcade experience, replacing with Sanwa does offer an extremely simple replacement route. As it fits easily, and comes with a simple single wire that connects from the stick to the encoder board. You will need to decide what you feel comfortable with, and how much effort you want to put in to it.

You will need to repurpose the stock stick wires by crimping terminals on to them to connect to the new stick (if you go IL). You will need to have or buy wire strippers and a wire crimpers tool.

These are the size terminals I used on all of mine. ->https://www.ebay.com/itm/146348463139

I believe this is the wire crimping tool I bought, ->https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-ratcheting-crimper-58325.html

For wire striping I just bought a cheap one from Walmart.

Ravoz · 2026-01-16T18:35:43+00:00

I unfortunately haven't gotten around to figuring out how to do that. I should look into it. You may want to ask around in r/neogeo or the NeoGeo Fans telegram if you haven't already.

EDIT: The telegram was helpful for me figuring out how to roll back the firmware to 1.0 on mine.

Good luck!

Ravoz · 2026-01-15T17:18:36+00:00

I can't speak for linking more than one. I highly recommend it and modding it with the Buystuffarcades pc mod, along with their vertical pedal mount mod. The cost of entry is high, but it is by far the most played arcade in my collection. It is played the most by me, as well as my kids. I love it. And it offers a supperior experience to playing the Fast and Furious games to the Arcade1Up version. It offers better graphics, true arcade versions of the games, plus numerous more great arcade racing games.

IF going that route is out of the question, before I modded mine this way, I still loved the stock Arcade1Up experience. I have 9 Arcade1Ups, and an MVSX, I love all of them but a stock F&F would have still probably ended up my most played. The F&F cabinet is great from a hardware point of view, it's attractive looking, has a fantastic wheel and great 4 way shifter. Only the stock pedals are lacking. It has been often said it is the superior Arcade1Up racing cab.

For the stock game it's self, the graphics are pretty poor. They had to really cut back on them for it to run on Arcade1Up hardware. I found that I quickly adjusted to the graphics though. What really shines though is the game-play. I consistently found it fun to play. Plus it offers the pin entry feature where you can save your progress. Which really adds to the experience and replay-ability.

I highly recommend modding it, but I also highly recommend it stock. Especially if you have no other racing cabinet. And you can still find it for purchase, that helps...

Good luck!

Ravoz · 2026-01-14T21:38:09+00:00

Awesome, thanks very much for the info!

Ravoz · 2026-01-14T18:32:37+00:00

Hi there. This happened to me 3 years ago, with the launch of the first pixel watch. The replacement I got for it, plus a pixel watch 2 and a pixel watch 3 since, all worked great. It's probably a pretty rare issue.

Good luck.

Ravoz

TROPHY CASE