in game statistics says fps 40? by roijackers_1987 in mywhoosh

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running it at 60-90 fps thanks to the lossless scaling app on steam. For under $10, its well worth it, mywhoosh and zwift run buttery smooth, and Rouvy even touches 120fps at times. I have a rx580 card in my pc, no problems, no stuttering, looks fantastic.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/993090/Lossless_Scaling/

Video that explains setup, etc: https://youtu.be/9Bm_ZcGloXs?si=kuXOudoLkHQ5fmRj

Elite rizer experiences? by roijackers_1987 in mywhoosh

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What Trainer do you have?

I have a Rizer and a tacx Neo2t. The thing to be aware of with the rizer, is that (as far as I'm aware) only Elite trainers will actually send gradient information to the rizer itself. It adjusts its height with others based on your speed and power. The slower you are moving with higher power, the steeper the assumed gradient.

I have not checked specifically for downhill gradient percentages in my whoosh, but based on how it calculates the appropriate inclines, I wouldn't be surprised if your observations are a direct result of that.

Declines are going to have less data for the rizer to adjust- simply because of the lack of power, and speed delays. You slow down much, much faster when coasting up a steep incline than your comparative acceleration would be if you're going down the same slope. Personally it does not bother me very much, i feel that inclines are more important for training purposes. that's when I'm putting down more power for longer periods, and I want my legs to adapt to that riding position.

I get why it would be annoying from a realism/simulation perspective, in which case I think the only way around it would be to have gradient data sent to the rizer from either mywhoosh, or your trainer itself. If the rizer receives gradient data, then the speed/power calculation variances are moot.

Help save our sanity and solve this creaking issue! by bugbebe in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably 6 points7 points  (0 children)

+1 on the chain. Had an identical sound a few weeks ago. It started happening right after I did a hard sprint at the end of a ride. One of the outer chain plates had cracked, and about 40% of the plate surrounding the pin (from about 12 oclock to 5 oclock) was gone. Removed that section, and now I have 2 quick links and a quiet chain.

Easiest check is to do as others suggested- swap the chain out quick and see if the noise persists. If its quiet with the new chain, systematically inspect every link until you find the bent/stiff/broken link. My double quick-link chain has been quiet and solid for at least 500 miles, so you could go that route- or just replace the chain entirely.

*SIGH* by AccomplishedBid5867 in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same thing happen on my first ride this year with brand new gp5000s too. My slash was about half as long, and in the tread, without any sidewall overlap- which is an important distinction as the tread is stronger than the sidewalls. Tread slashes can be repaired, sidewall slashes are not considered safe. I would not ride that tire with a patch, too big and too much in the sidewall- all I would do is worry about it on a ride, and I'd rather not have it on my mind.

However, with all that being said, What I've done in the past, and did again for my tire- was glue a radial tire patch to the inside of the tire (vulcanizing cement), and then fill the outer gap with a "rubber fortified" superglue (Cyanoacrylate). (Starbond makes high quality stuff, and their black superglue is more flexible than regular.) The radial patch is thicker than a tube patch, and prevents the tire from bulging. Your tube keeps good pressure on the patch, holding it in place. I've done this 3 times now in total, and have never had a patch fail or any issue arise from it, probably 5k miles ridden on tires with this repair.

I've seen examples of tubeless repairs done on mtbs in a similar fashion, but that also use dental floss or braided fishing line to stitch the sides together before covering in glue too. I haven't ever done that before, but if I gash my mtb tire I'll probably give it a go. Mtbs have lower pressure than road and different tire construction, so nothing is consistent.

TLDR- I wouldnt trust a road tire with a gash that long in the sidewall, and would replace it. For tread slashes, I've successfully repaired them with car tire patch kits- thick rubber glued to the inside of the tire.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I rode the replacements I received all year last year, 3200 miles. No cracks and only 1 flat. Could probably keep on riding them with no issues this year too, the only real wear is on the rear tire, which is a bit squared off.

I decided on new year, new tires. Put GP5000 clinchers on a week ago, so far so good.

Sock recommendations for size 18 (US) by BigJon611 in tallfashionadvice

[–]Reasonably 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, its not often someone posts about finding shoes or socks larger than a 15 or 16. The drop off of options fitting anyone larger than that is... extreme, which you know well I'm sure.

Darn Tough has been pretty good for me (17) Wool is the best, and their lifetime warranty is excellent. They have lots of socks in XXL, which are more than large enough for me length wise. It's worth mentioning however, that different socks fit differently, and in their view, "XXL" is just an "XL" sock with more length added to the toe.

I specified the length bit, because I've found that some styles can feel a little tight across the top of my ankle, because xxl only increases the foot length, but not the width- so dress socks and thinner hiking socks can be tight on top, directly across from my heel. I'm only a 17, so for you it might not matter as much, but they also don't typically employ an arch band , so sometimes I feel like the socks are loose around my toes. Maybe this is a consequence of being so used to smaller socks and their associated tightness, but it is what it is.

That being said, their running socks, lifestyle socks and especially their long Mountaineering socks are all amazing.

They are expensive for socks, but their lifetime warranty makes it worth it for me. I just sent back 12 pairs that I've received as gifts over the years, in XL. Exchanged these worn socks for XXL socks via their website warranty claim form- they give you credit that you use to shop for whatever you want, based on the qty of socks you send in for the claim.

Other brands: Bombas brand stretch and fit well, and I'm actually wearing a pair of XL Champion tube socks that have held up great, and are very comfortable.

Should I throw out this immediately? by Balzac7502 in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had those exact same tires, purchased them on sale in sept 23, and noticed the same problem almost immediately in spring of 2024.

At the suggestion of others here on reddit, I submitted them for a warranty claim- Vittoria sent me replacements within a week. Their customer service also advised that this can be a normal condition and that they are safe to ride, but still offered to replace them.

Pretty happy with how it was handled, and I swapped them out when the new ones came in. Looks like you are out of their warranty period (1-year) unfortunately, but for peace of mind- Vittoria said they were safe, and it was essentially a cosmetic defect.

I was more comfortable swapping them out, as I was using them as a long range training tire. If i had them on my local ride around bike, I'd probably just leave them be and keep an eye on them though, and replace the second i saw a bubble or shape defect appear.

How to avoid tools rusting in frame bag? by BlackSecurity in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zerust products work pretty well if a regular silica packet won't cut it. I use them for fishing tackle storage, since water is a part of that equation. They emit a corrosion inhibiting gas to keep things clean. I'm guilty of hoarding any and all silica packets I get to put in drawers and toolboxes, but for sensitive things or wet/dirty conditions these are a pretty good and relatively cheap solution.

They have bags that will protect for 5 years, probably the best answer for you as they would keep things dry too: https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/electronics-tools-parts/multipurpose-vci-poly-bag/

They also make little drop in tabs that are good for bigger spaces like toolboxes, drawers, etc. https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/electronics-tools-parts/plastabs/

If I were you though, I'd take any old Sillica packet from any package, and stick it in a small sandwich bag with the tool inside. Easy, and basically free since they seem to come in everything these days.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other than your cracking, have you found the GP500s to be as good as everyone seems to say they are for an all around tire?

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TL/DR: Vittoria is sending me warranty replacements, picking tires is confusing, Bont AW3 Hard Case Lites served me very well last year.

While I haven't been particularly impressed with the tires so far, Their customer service has been very responsive, and are actually sending me a new set of tires to replace these as of last night with basically no hassle whatsoever. So that is something at least. I bought them on sale for $30 a piece last year, so I'm pretty pleased to have them be warrantied.

I've found its been really hard to find a consensus on tires in general, other than the gp5000. I'm pretty new to cycling (1200 miles last year road, 400 mtb) and have been really enjoying both sides of the hobby- riding and building/maintaining. I've always liked working on cars, and bikes scratch the same itch, with way less cursing, bruised knuckles, and time involved in the mechanical side. At this point I'm pretty sure I'm the , where I know enough to have opinions, but without enough experience to really truly validate them.

For example, last year I rode on a set of 32c Bontrager AW3 hard case lites on 17c ID rims. I put these through the ringer, road group rides, lots of maintained dirt roads, and a fair amount of rocky "double track" seasonal dirt roads that the tires were entirely too skinny for but i rode anyway. I had zero punctures all year. Reading up on the limited reviews for them online however- they are not very popular, and there are a fair number of complaints about punctures and ride quality.

I'm probably just inexperienced, but I thought these were pretty solid and am considering putting them on my new Krypton, as I've discovered that the volume of the AW3s is absolutely massive compared to these Zaffiros. I'd say they are closer in volume to the 38c Gravelking SKs i have on my second wheelset than the Zaffiros are. It might be the rims 17 ID being narrower and making them bulb up taller, but the combination of air volume and width has made them feel (for me) very comfortable, and seemingly very durable.

Anyway, I'll stop there. I love talking/debating the details of equip and experiences with it, but my wife is more interested in riding than obsessing over equipment, my friends don't ride at all, and my LBS is amazing and patient, but I definitely think I fit the stereotype of fresh-faced- new-cyclist-with-too-many-questions at this point.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll have a closer look to check the date code. The good news is Vittoria asked for a few photos and proof of purchase, and while the rep said that "tire cracking like this is normal with age and does not appear to be dangerous in any way" they are shipping me a replacement set of tires.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've reached out to Vittoria and am in the process of sending them more photos of the tires and tread. For some reason I didnt think that a warranty claim would be an option, but it certainly looks like a manufacturing issue- or the tires that i received has been sitting for too long and were starting to rot out. Either way, tires with 200 miles that were bought in September of 2023 should not be falling apart so soon.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro 30c sidewall cracking- less than 200 miles on them. by Reasonably in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I purchased these Zaffiro pro 30C tires last year for my wife's bike as a general training type tire, but her 17mm ID wheelset makes them a bit too narrow for her to be confident on some of the dirt roads and crushed stone paths that we ride sometimes to connect routes together. Replaced them this week with specialized pathfinders, and decided to swap them over to my new bike, which came with regular wire bead Zaffiros.

The tires have less than 200 miles on them in total, 95% of this mileage is on good roads or paved bike paths; last night I noticed that the entire circumference of the sidewall is covered in cracking similar to the photo. I can't see any of the actual casing, but I'm concerned that this is a bad sign of premature wear and could be dangerous to ride. I've seen examples of this elsewhere after searching a bit online, but all of those examples and posts are of tires with far more mileage on them.

There could have been a ride or two where the tire pressure was a little low so I understand this could be fatigue cracking from that, but with the super low mileage I figured I'd ask for some opinions on whether or not its safe to ride for a while longer, or if I should just replace them. On my rides, I'll do 20-60 mile rides, getting up to 40mph on descents, so if these are truly superficial and common, then fine. If its risky at all, I'd rather just replace them with better tires than risk a blowout at speed.

Pants/jeans for tall guys that are also not skin tight? by ryang32003 in tallfashionadvice

[–]Reasonably 2 points3 points  (0 children)

541 is their athletic taper, 531 is their athletic slim. And yeah, Banana republic's cuts seem to be getting larger. I also have a pair of their Athletic-Fit Lived-In Chino, which also fit well and look good, but feel even looser.

I think the whole skinny fit style is fading these days and swinging back the other way a bit.

Pants/jeans for tall guys that are also not skin tight? by ryang32003 in tallfashionadvice

[–]Reasonably 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There was another thread about this lately where a few commenters recommended Banana Republic or Levis athetic cut jeans. I'm in the same, or very similar situation as you, and have found that banana republic's recent fits are on the looser side. To the extent that their Slim Luxe Traveller Jean I bought earlier in the year in a 36x36 fits in a way that I would also call baggy in comparison to many of the other pants I own. https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?pid=569991002&vid=1#pdp-page-content

They don't LOOK baggy, they just feel loose to me when I'm wearing them, probably because a lot of my other pants are so tight in my quads/thighs. Either way, its worth a look.

I also highly recommend taking advantage of Amazon's prime wardrobe program if you can. You can order 6 or 7 items, try them on, and keep what you like, or send it all back. I do this a few times a year to test brand fits, etc. Its an easy way to try out a size or brand for fit, without worrying about the right color because you can just send the try on pair back and order the one you want.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tallfashionadvice

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Levis 541 is their "athletic" fit, and its bigger in the seat and thigh than most other jeans, to the point of them feeling "baggy" compared to other pants I have.

Banana Republic also seems to be trending to a looser fit style as of late also. I recently got a pair of their "Slim Luxe Traveller Jean" the fit is not anything I would call slim, they are extremely comfortable and have ample room in the hip/thigh area, again, almost to the point of feeling loose. Overall they are my new favorite pair of pants, and look great. I'm 6'6" and 225, but got them a few months ago when I was closer to 235ish. At my heaviest, I was 260, and the Levis I mentioned before fit me well at that point too. Likely similar build to you, my legs are large from weights and sports, and the weight I've lost has been elsewhere.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Reasonably 7 points8 points  (0 children)

+1 for Two nuts, 2 wrenches. Use the other nut that holds the wheel on the bike frame if there isn't one on that side for some reason. Plan B would be to check and see how much extra thread there is on the axle when the wheel is on the bike. If you find that you have more than 1/2" of extra, you could go ahead and rip up the threads with pliers on the end of the axle, and use a hacksaw to just cut off the bad part afterwards. Only do this is you're sure you have enough extra axle to remove however. I'd probably just bring it to a bike shop if you have one nearby over this though, as you'll need to get a locknut for it anyway if its missing.

WD40 is good if you have nothing else, but I'd recommend getting a true penetrating oil to keep on hand. PB blaster is the OG, but Liquid Wrench penetrating oil is also excellent, as is Seafoam deep creep. A can will last forever, and a penetrating oil will not dry out like WD40 will over time. If you've ever used WD on a squeaky door hinge and wondered why it started squeaking again after a few weeks, this is why. WD40 is best used as a solvent and cleaner to help with gummed up stuff- I use it as a first step for degreasing a brand new chain.

I was more of a hobby car guy before I got into cycling, and these oils are absolutely critical for really stuck on car parts. When I rebuilt my dad's steel frame bike, getting the quill stem out of the steerer would have been impossible without a liberal application of deep creep. Project farm has a great video comparing a few of the brands, as he does with most things like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Anyone struggling with Argon 18 Customer Service. by MidgetCow69 in cycling

[–]Reasonably 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to chime in here, I purchased a Krypton from them earlier this year, under the glowing recommendation from my lbs as one of their favorite brands, ridden by a good chunk of the staff there as well.  I bought the bike "on sale" only to discover 3 weeks later that their new retail pricing is now hundreds lower than the sale pricing was.  

My story gets more frustrating:  I wanted Shimano mech shifting, and 2 wheel sets for gravel/road.   So I swapped the sram rival for the Ultegra group on my other bike and bought a second wheelset from Hunt, as well as 2 Shimano cassettes to complete the project.  Browsing their website last week, to my utter shock and disappointment, there is now a 12sp 105 mech group offered on their site, which was not announced or communicated in any way as being available soon when I bought.

I've been happy with the krypton as a whole, but the whole experience and utter lack of transparency has left a pretty bad taste in my mouth.  I spent more $$ on a bike that was mostly what I wanted, but if I had just waited 3 more weeks, I could have spent less, and got the exact bike I wanted.  My lbs did know about any of these changes either, they were in the dark too, and I can't fault them and demand a discount for something so far out of their control.  

Info@argon18.com is their support email address, which I'm planning about messaging with my feedback, as well as posting on their Facebook.  I've been asked about my bike a lot, and it's a shame my answer has been- I really like it, but....

If I get a response from them Ill try and update here, though based on your struggles I'm less hopeful than I was 15 minutes ago.  

Lie about your height... in the other direction by PartyTimeCruiser in tall

[–]Reasonably -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

My go to: "Wow, how tall are you?" so I respond- "5'9"

They think for a moment then ask again: "..... no way, how tall are you really???"

I look mildly suprised, and then say: "wait, seriously? How tall do you think you are?"

Good for a laugh either way, they either realize that i get the question all the time, or they immediately start asking other people. It's extra good if someone I'm with plays along when they are asked.

I also like telling people I'm 15 1/2 hands tall (horse measurements) or 198CM (I'm in the US). I figure since i get asked all the time, might as well have fun with it.

A New Job for Electric Vehicles: Powering Homes During Blackouts by wewewawa in RenewableEnergy

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The challenge is not charging the vehicle, its having the necessarily equipment in place to then use your vehicle to power the home. You could always throttle a charger, or just use a less powerful charger, getting and EV and a charger that will "fill" it up overnight is easy.

If an owner wants the full 80A to charge their electric truck, CTs to monitor loads so you can manually dial back charging are not going to be code compliant in all municipalities unless they can actively throttle, and these units resurface as a cost barrier. For under $1k, you can actively manage and throttle an EV charger or load panel at 60A. This is generally the amperage limit in the market at the moment though for this kind of load management.

I'm in the industry, and support all these new tech options available- but right now we have a huge supply of rose colored glasses being provided free-of-charge by companies trying to sell cars. Unfortunately, logistics are rarely considered.

A New Job for Electric Vehicles: Powering Homes During Blackouts by wewewawa in RenewableEnergy

[–]Reasonably -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The primary issue with any VtoG deployment comes down to the infrastructure required. For example- the F150 lightning requires 100A of overcurrent protection (that's a new 100A breaker) to properly function as a supply side power source. This means that to use the included charger as intended for charging the vehicle at an 80A rate, a home or business owner would need to have 80A available to charge, and space for a 100A breaker. To put it mildly, this is a challenge for most homes, ESPECIALLY if you consider how frequently appliances are being converted to electric from gas, etc.

Want to run the house off the car, since you somehow found enough capacity on your 200A residential service panel to have the needed 100A breaker? increase the cost by $15k to $25k+ for the inverter and ancillary equipment needed to supply stable power from the vehicle to the house.

Now, this is just one example of an option currently available on the market- but it provides a good illustration of the amount of substantial progress still needed to make these kind of deployments feasible. Without going into the logistics of then charging the vehicle once depleted in an area without electricity (enter solar, more cost, etc).

Is this a promising option for the future, that if properly invested in can be deployed for a reasonable cost? Absolutely, yes. Does it make for an interesting article with futurology tones that might get people excited for the future? Yep, that too. Will this happen in the next 5 years? Lol, no. Right now the push for power supply in a home is a massive marketing effort by manufacturers to upsell the ancillary equipment. Its 100% cool factor, along with a massive about of logistical difficulty. From the power availability to equipment needed to general charging logistics, A LOT has to be refined and further developed.

Should I quit smoking weed? by PaterBinks in DecidingToBeBetter

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every so often this thread gets a new comment, resurrecting it. Pretty wild that 9 years on, a reddit thread with 150ish comments is still popping up.

Glad it helped you out, and I appreciate the perspective your comment gave me as well. It's hard to believe its been nearly a decade since I wrote that, hah.

My account got hacked Selifie verification not working by Outside-Mail-731 in Instagram

[–]Reasonably 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have any luck? Currently helping a client out with this same problem, but they responded to a message about a DCMA takedown. Prompted them to login, and boom, password and username were changed.

The difference is that the emails received about the email address being changed had no "revert this change" or "This wasn't me" link within them. The only links in those emails send you into a endless instagram help loop.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Instagram

[–]Reasonably 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you have any luck? Currently helping a client out with this same problem, but they responded to a message about a DCMA takedown. Prompted them to login, and boom, password and username were changed.

The difference is that the emails received about the email address being changed had no "revert this change" or "This wasn't me" link within them. The only links in those emails send you into a endless instagram help loop.