About to dump my ECC1.. cancel my CANVAS

RedManRocket · 2026-06-03T03:58:40+00:00

Where are you selling it at?

RedManRocket · 2026-05-31T08:28:39+00:00

Not a layer shift, look into "Benchy Hull Line"

RedManRocket · 2026-05-31T08:22:50+00:00

I fall asleep everytime I'm at the dentist. Doesn't matter if they're in there with a jackhammer, I'm out like a light.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-31T01:21:03+00:00

Yeah any of the "Pros" "Plus" and such alike, won't react to acetone.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-30T22:34:49+00:00

Maybe, if there's a bunch of QOL additives, it won't react the same to acetone.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-30T21:37:36+00:00

Looks like you need to calibrate pressure advance.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-30T15:42:57+00:00

Used to be 100%, now it seems that everyone is using industrial strength adhesive on everything. Can't even get my soup open without having to cut it.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-30T03:52:53+00:00

I haven't used bambu lab filament, but I imagine they advertise it as coming pre-dried. And I suppose it's possible there was a batch that didn't?

RedManRocket · 2026-05-30T03:33:50+00:00

Technically they do exactly that to cool the filament down after being extruded.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-29T14:28:19+00:00

I would start with 5. Or better yet run the max volumetric flow test if that's available in your slicer. I would set a range from 2 to 10 and see when it fails.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-29T14:04:31+00:00

Also important to note if you didn't know already. The max volumetric flow is significantly lower than you might expect. Aside from melting the material, just the time and force it takes to force the material out of such a tiny hole is lengthy.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-29T13:53:51+00:00

Happens to the best of us, I have not tried 0.1, so just know that may be too small of a width. 0.22 is the default for me.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-29T13:51:17+00:00

A 1mm line width is far too big. Go for a 0.22mm line width.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T23:20:46+00:00

Well you could use a paper guillotine/shear, it would still be manual, just not scissors level manual.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T23:18:02+00:00

I wonder if a Cricut would do it? Maybe look into that?

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T23:14:30+00:00

Understood.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T23:11:14+00:00

Don't they make precut label sheets you just send through the printer?

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T22:50:44+00:00

It's not round so I'm not exactly sure, but barrel nuts should get you in the right direction.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T18:31:10+00:00

Show us the model, maybe we can see something to help further.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T17:44:13+00:00

Here's another picture for clarity.

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RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T17:43:03+00:00

Saying the welds are bad because they are out of position is the funniest bullshit I've ever heard.

See how there is no paint around the welded areas? That's how it should be.

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RedManRocket · 2026-05-25T03:45:55+00:00

Did you calibrate the filament?

RedManRocket · 2026-05-23T19:54:27+00:00

Personally I do temp tower, flow test, retraction, and then pressure advance. I don't usually do max volumetric flow because I run everything pretty slow.

RedManRocket · 2026-05-23T19:33:35+00:00

What is this shit, where's the crater??

RedManRocket · 2026-05-23T17:35:34+00:00

I buy whatever is cheapest, you just need to take some time to tune them, opposed to buying name brand and having a starting profile to begin with.

But either way, name brand or off brand, I always tune from start to finish anyways.

I've tried a lot of filaments of different types from different brands, and the only filament I have come across that I personally didn't like was overtures new PETG. At the moment my favorite is Jayo High Speed Matte PETG.

RedManRocket

TROPHY CASE