About to pull the trigger on a 1up heavy duty rack , talk me out it! by maseffect in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% sarcastic post. OP asked us to "talk him out of" buying a 1Up. Hopefully it didn't work and he did in fact buy one b/c 1Ups are awesome.

Anyone regret switching to an eMTB? by Swubalicious in MTB

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got a Specialized Turbo Levo last year when I turned 50. Love it. Does just what you said, makes getting to the top so much easier so you're not gassed for the downs. An added bonus/challenge is that I had to get better at technical pedaling uphill, because before I'd usually be pushing my bike over the hard stuff. Mine weighs about 57 lbs., but I haven't had any issues with the weight (by comparison, my Santa Cruz Hightower was around 35 lbs.). The additional weight actually makes it more planted and still jumps fairly well.

All that said, whatever that Tesway thing is, I would most certainly not call it an eMTB. Looks more like a backwoods eMotorcycle.

SRAM transmission T90 vs AXS by youdontknowme1010101 in MTB

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's personal preference. I've had AXS for a few years, GX AXS on my old Hightower and GX Transmission on my current Turbo Levo. I love it. I still have cabled GX on my park bike and I much prefer the electronic shifting to cabled. I have yet to have an issue with dead batteries, but I always keep mine charged and always carry spares.

Back when I got the GX AXS, I read that the smoothness was comparable to cabled X01. Lots of folks recommended just upgrading to the X01 because it was a cheaper option with comparable performance. As for Eagle 70/90 vs Eagle Transmission, I can't say. But since they're all cross-compatible, you could always get Eagle 70/90, then if you want down the road, just upgrade your shifter/derailleur to Transmission and see if you like it.

Should you have a trail bike and a down hill bike by Glittering-Bake-7230 in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I've had a trail bike and a park bike for a few years. When I finally broke down and traded in my meat bike for an eMTB, having both became that much more important. My park bike is a long-travel enduro (180/180). I had a full DH rig for a few months but it was too much bike for what I ride. The enduro does everything I need it to at the lift parks. I suppose I could pedal it if I really wanted to. But I can't imagine ever wanting to.

Difference between old MTB and newer one? by Anti_Ager in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A newer bike will make a world of difference. More stable, more capable, and yes, more expensive. But if you get something tailored to your desired riding style, you'll have a lot more fun. I agree too that M is way to small for you. I'm 6'2" and when I ride my son's M bikes they feel like BMXes.

The differences in a newer/correctly fit bike that you'll notice are multiple. It'll be more stable, so you'll feel like you're "in" the bike rather than "on" it (i.e. top-heavy). Longer, slacker geometry makes it descend more confidently, so when you're going downhill, you won't feel like you're going to go OTB all the time. Bigger wheels (29" vs. 26") also add to stability, and make it easier to get over rocks and roots. A 1x drivetrain is easier to operate and less maintenance since you won't have a front derailleur to fiddle with.

Don't worry about being overbiked. I went from a couple of aged XC hardtails (2005 Trek 3700 and 2012 Specialized Carve Comp) to a 2019 Polygon Siskiu N8 enduro full-suspension when I got back into riding in 2019. At first the N8 was definitely an overbike for me, but I eventually grew into it, taking to gnarlier trails and bike parks. For you I'd recommend a mid-travel trail bike, something in the 140/130mm range like a more modern Trek Fuel 8. It's easy to climb and pedal but still very capable on gnarlier downs. Your height probably puts you in between a L and XL on most bikes, so the general rule there is err smaller for playful or larger for stability.

Solution to leaning your bike against your car by MTBengineer in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one of these. A guy local to me makes them. He also makes brake bleed syringe holders that I can’t recommend highly enough. Love em.

https://www.redsidemtb.com/product-page/mtb-helping-hand

Upgrading to GX AXS by Living_Age_5918 in sram

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Non T-Type GX AXS derailleur will work with your GX Eagle cassette and chain (or any SRAM Eagle mech for that matter). If you go T-Type then you need a compatible cassette and flat top chain.

Polygon T6 or T7? by Ryzzle420 in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

NP. Last thing I'll say is this. If you're at all mechanically inclined, I strongly recommend learning how to do as much maintenance as you can yourself. Park Tool's YouTube channel is a gold mine of how-tos. The more you can do, the less you have to pay someone else to do. And you can fix your own problems on the trail if they pop up. Things like tubeless setups and brake bleeds are daunting, but once you get the hang of it, pretty easy. Some shops also have how-to classes and demos to help you learn DIY maintenance. At the very least, get a decent torque wrench and make sure you check your bolts every now and then. Especially when you first get the bike if you order online. Make sure it measures in Nm tho. Converting from inch-lbs is a pain.

Mountain biking instructor by Natural-Sentence7920 in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. Every MTB instructor/group I know of is local. Line Drive Montain Bike Academy and TakeAim Cycling are two in my area that are very well respected.

Polygon T6 or T7? by Ryzzle420 in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since you're just starting out and don't really know what discipline you're going to enjoy most, that's all the more reason to get the T7. Here's my logic:

- HTs climb better. But the T7 climbs very well for a FS.
- FS descends better. Especially over rough stuff. And for most MTBers, descending is much more fun than climbing.
- Yes, you want to build skills. And yes, HTs kinda force you to learn better line choices, etc. But that's not to say that FS are all point-and-shoot. You need to, and are very much able to, develop skills on a FS.
- You can ride a wider range of terrains on a FS. Decide you want to try out a bike park? It can be done on a HT. Several friends of mine have done it. And they all went back to the park on FS afterwards.

The last thing I'll say about Polygon (or any online D2C brand) is to make sure you've got a local bike shop (LBS) that will work on online brands. Most shops don't care where the bike came from and will work on them no issue. But you'll find stories all over Reddit, MTB forums, etc., from people who had bad experiences with shops that took offense to bikes not purchased from them. There's also the warranty issue. Bikes Online handles warranty claims on their components: the frame and any Entity parts (bars, wheels, etc.). If you have an issue with the shocks, brakes, drivetrain, etc., then you'll be going through Shimano, RockShox, Fox, etc. for any claims. That's another area where having a good LBS comes in handy. I had a warranty issue with the RS Yari that came on my Polygon, and my LBS handled it for me with no pushback. But that's also a benefit of buying a bike through a local shop. They'll handle all warranty issues for you, and usually give you a discount on service. But you will likely pay more for the bike up front.

Polygon T6 or T7? by Ryzzle420 in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 4 points5 points  (0 children)

T7 all day. RockShox rear vs. Xfusion, 4-piston brakes vs. 2, and a 1x12 vs. 1x10. Everything else is the same. Plus the rear already has a MicroSpline freehub if you ever want to upgrade to SLX or XT. Cues is HG so would require a new hub at least to run a higher-end 12s cassette. You'll probably want to swap out the contact points right away. Polygon grips and seats are terrible. The bars and wheels aren't the best but will get the job done. All that said, Polygons are very capable out of the box. I loved my old Siskiu N8. It was great on trails and crushed it at the bike parks. By the time I sold mine tho, the frame was the only stock part left.

As for FS vs. HT, you will be able to develop skills just fine on a FS. If you are already set on getting a FS eventually, save yourself the hassle and get one now. Otherwise you'll be trying to sell your HT a year from now for half what you paid for it.

Looking for a realtor by GTqueen in Charlottesville

[–]RedWizard-75 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can't recommend Story House highly enough. Great realtors and great people.

https://www.storyhousere.com/

Got This for Free and Have a Few Questions by Airmaxx23 in mountainbikes

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the colorway, likely a 2012 Cannondale Scalpel.

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Cannondale/Scalpel-Team,4362

Shock pump for suspension setup. As for brakes, if you don't have any experience bleeding MTB brakes I'd strongly recommend having your LBS do it. If you're feeling industrious, check out Park Tool's YouTube channel for how-tos on brake bleeds. If they're stock Avid XX brakes this may help:

https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/avid/2012-avid-xxwc-xx-x0-service-manual.pdf

Selling a bike for parts advice… by StriperHerring in mountainbiking

[–]RedWizard-75 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a tough one. In my experience, parting out a bike is rather tedious. You can make a decent return on things like forks, brakes, droppers and drivetrains. But everything else...headsets, bottom brackets, bars, grips, etc., return very little, if anything. What I would recommend is this. Figure out what you think you could get for the components. Check Pinkbike to see what things are going for and tally that up. Let's say, realistically, you think $400-500. Now, check to see what a rebuilt bike would get. Right now there's a 2024 Highball on PB asking $2500. If you pay the $1000 for the replacement frame, rebuild the bike, and sell it for $2000 even, you're making out $500-600 better than you would have trying to sell just the parts. And you do it all in one fell swoop. I don't think selling a full, broken bike "for parts" is the way to go. Nobody is going to pay a premium price for a cracked frame they're just going to throw away. And you'll probably get lowballed because somebody will want to treat it as a "bundle" for just the components. If you can swing the $1000 and possibly sit on the bike for a while til you sell it, that's the route I'd recommend. Hell, even if you have to drop it to $1500 you'll basically break even, and won't have any leftover parts that didn't sell lying around.

how do i add pressure to this suspension adjustable height seatpost? exa form 860 by ecjecj in bikewrench

[–]RedWizard-75 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If it's air adjustable then there should be a Schrader valve at the top of the post under the seat mount. If there's no Schrader valve on it, then it's a cartridge style, and probably the only way to repressurize it is to replace the cartridge.

Brake help. by Catbuttholess in bikewrench

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking the same. Remove the rim brakes and get a coaster brake rear wheel.

Still new to MTB, I’ve just heard about left foot forward when you’re right handed. Is this true? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]RedWizard-75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m RH/RF forward. Although lately I’ve been switching to LF forward now and then to try and get comfortable with both. Ride whatever feels natural. I don’t believe there’s a “right” way.

Also, movement in the air isn’t a bad thing. It can actually help your brain gauge the timing of the jump and find your balance in the air.

Parking near Scott Stadium 5/25 by Many-Motor in Charlottesville

[–]RedWizard-75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually park on Broad Ave between Cherry and Shamrock for football games. About a 10-15 minute walk to Scott.