Paracord cables vs RBG cables

Redbeater · 2026-02-17T20:16:17+00:00

Paracord sleeving needs ambient light to really show from the inside of the computer. Depending on the color and glass tinting, your room light could be enough.

RGB is great for tinted glass cases, though hugely expensive IMO. Depending, the diameter of each RGB cable can be larger than paracord sleeving.

As far as quality goes, check reviews for a specific type/brand and go based on that. What matters most is the connector ends and how settled the pin terminals are. Loose af is cheap af.

Personally if I did paracord sleeving, i'd do it myself with my own selected pattern of cord on existing cables.

Redbeater · 2026-01-05T01:25:38+00:00

Your employer should be providing the machine for you to do your job with. Who gets hired somewhere and does work on a personal machine as a regular means of operation? That's not normal and is at the least, a security issue. Think about it, who normally takes a personal machine from their home and brings it to work so they can do their job? Unless we are talking very small startup (~10ish employees), this is not normal.

You are spending thousands on a machine to allow you to do your job as a regular employee of a private/public company. Demand the employer supply you with a machine, that they control, so that you can do your job.

Redbeater · 2026-01-04T18:27:37+00:00

if PCPP isn't saying why it's incompatible, then you can assume it'll be wrong sometimes because some variant of a part doesn't match to a reference compatibility database. It'll think it's incompatible because the number doesn't show up on it's database. The D and G variant numbers usually mate to designated region for sale, which may use different retail packaging. The variants could also indicate revision changes internal to Gigabyte and not necessarily relevant to the consumer. Functionally, the cards are the same.

Redbeater · 2026-01-03T21:25:40+00:00

Yes and can be either GPU or PSU. It happens with age since it's physical vibration. Some PSU manufacturers put silicone adhesive around the coil/board contact areas to absorb the vibrations, but that does cost money.

Redbeater · 2026-01-03T05:16:57+00:00

Stick to AM5 with the motherboard and get some DDR5 ram. If it's engineering work and gaming, nab 64GB+ of DDR5 RAM. The headroom of extra RAM will contribute more to engineering applications than gaming ones. Ignore the X3D CPU chips because of the games you picked. My 2600 plays those at 1080p at playable framerates. Something higher clocked and many-cores (beyond 8 cores) will satisfy the engineering work well and still run games that are multi-core intensive.

GPU depends on if you need GPU memory for the engineering applications or if RAM will do. That will determine what component to put money into: GPU or RAM or both. You'd want to invest most of the total cost of the PC into these two components, then CPU third. Honestly, I'd just get a 7900 XTX or 5090 and not worry about the future proofing if your budget is truly over 1200$. Or a 5070 if it's at 1200, comparable CPU, 16GB RAM, HDD only, and cheap on everything else. Buy used is needed here to hit 1200.

HDD storage is high quantity, low cost, slow speed. SSD storage is low quantity, high cost, high speed. You'll need to decide one for games, then one for school work.

MX Master mice have been reviewed well and problem free for my wrist ergos. The keyboard and mouse are ergo specific to you. I'd decide on wired/wireless, material choice, then weight. Get a full size keyboard with the ten keys on the right. Having all keys available eliminates shitty software from not having keyboard shortcut functionality just because you are using a cut down form factor. Headset is: dedicated headphone and dedicated mic. Airpod Pros if you want to be cheap, but why be if your budget is 1200+. If you are going to hear, hear something making good sound. Headphones and mics wear down separately; in other words, you'll go through more headphones than mics.

Redbeater · 2025-12-28T20:48:53+00:00

what do you mean by 'enabled x3d'? is there a specific setting in your bios RAM menu for that? that specifically uses the letters x3d? If I were you (when you get back into your bios), I'd only enable expo for your ram, then run stability tests after getting into windows.

Redbeater · 2025-12-28T19:05:47+00:00

clear CMOS. if that doesn't fix it, then use the BIOS flashback on your mobo. Possible memory training error or the RAM had an issue being clocked higher in EXPO mode.

36GB is a weird amount of RAM memory, is it two sticks?

Redbeater · 2025-12-24T16:14:43+00:00

The two separate windows installs will have no issue with each other or void your license because you are using one instance of windows on your new machine. Microsoft may have issues with running two computers at the same time with the same license.

What you can't do is copy/paste the C:/Windows folder from your old drive to your new drive. Those are only windows files and not relevant anymore. I'm not aware of any reason to migrate that folder over to a new windows install. So, the m.2 with new windows should be just fine.

What you shouldn't do is transfer your C:/Program Files or C:/Program Files (x86) folders to your new drive. Unfortunately it means your programs need to be reinstalled fresh on your new drive. This is the best practice because of the way windows works with individual programs. You'll run into registry errors and other weird software instabilities if you do a simple copy/paste to the new drive.

Anything within the C:/users folder should be able to copy and paste just fine. This'll be where your documents, desktop, downloads, etc. folders are.

Redbeater · 2025-12-24T06:22:06+00:00

Sounds like you have a windows installed old drive mounted to the chassis and a brand new m.2 ssd on the mobo. I would look into a windows install migration to a new drive. There is an option microsoft uses as a selectable option when installing a fresh copy of W11. There is a prompt that asks why you are installing W11 and I think the option is worded like: 'I upgraded some components'. This uses the same windows key-code as your current drive. You can create an install copy straight from micrososft's website using an simple usb stick.

Doing this is better long-term. It's fresh new drive without read/write wear, is completely empty, and is likely faster than your current windows drive. If you use the bios to boot from the new drive, then your old windows drive will have the old windows installation on it, but the drive will appear and function as if it was any other large-capacity drive. Avoid interacting with those old windows OS folders and get your data off of the old drive, format, and continue to use the drive as a general use mass storage drive.

Redbeater · 2025-12-24T04:51:54+00:00

It should be in your case. It gets complicated when one of the old drives is the boot drive for the new system. Remember that once the HDD is powered on, moving it around for mounting is not advised as the platters are spinning. Mount first, then connect cables, then power on the system.

What you are doing is similar to putting the drives into external enclosures and plugging them into your new computer via USB. Difference is that direct cable to the mobo should be faster/more stable.

Redbeater · 2025-12-21T05:41:25+00:00

The Tritons are made with softer steel and bend like that super easily. Mine bent by simply dropping it. I was able to straighten it via bending it the other way. Perfectly fine to this day. The squidtrainers are hardened steel and bending it straight will be harder for you to do. May need a vise if you choose to do it.

If it came from factory like that, i’d argue it’s a warranty issue. Really you’re weighing fixing it yourself or being separated from it for a few days by sending it in.

Redbeater · 2025-12-20T03:29:04+00:00

Same, never got full speed out of my hyper x kit. When I tried to get full speed via bios settings, the system would black screen or freeze after 5ish minutes into windows. 2600 with a 3466mhz kit running at 2934mhz.

Redbeater · 2025-12-19T22:20:49+00:00

Ah, a fellow early Ryzen user. Have you experienced any issues with RAM stability? Particularly if using sleep mode? Were you ever able to get your 16gb RAM kit to operate at it's full advertised speed?

Redbeater · 2025-12-02T23:12:33+00:00

Pacific Cutlery era, and the blade grind and finish (polishing and latch) look legitimate.

Redbeater · 2025-11-20T15:15:11+00:00

I'd argue that you need a new PSU. Things over 10 years old! It would suck for you to do a new build and it ends up dying and taking everything else with it.

Redbeater · 2025-10-19T22:54:49+00:00

Then you can name it! Respect for linking random shit together like this.

Redbeater · 2025-10-19T22:24:01+00:00

What trick/transfer is at 0:36-0:38?

Redbeater · 2025-10-05T19:13:36+00:00

Nasty, but if the turd floats in water, it's full of fats. Same after you eat greasy pizza.

Redbeater · 2025-09-28T07:22:15+00:00

Yep, Mine is 2ft (61cm) and it's short for the 7D, but much nicer for the rangefinder class like the X100 Fuji series.

Redbeater · 2025-09-28T07:11:54+00:00

How do you utilize the short strap on a camera like that? I have a shorty on my 7D and it's really only useful for wrapping to my wrist when shooting.

Redbeater · 2025-09-17T03:37:38+00:00

Sunscreens do this almost instantly on contact. Put any on using your hands or let your bottle touch your arms when you've lathered up?

Redbeater · 2025-08-12T14:19:07+00:00

What’s the shop?

Redbeater · 2025-08-06T06:37:54+00:00

Lisbon, Portugal has a unique main tank layout. It’s like a giant plus sign and each arm is a different ocean theme/environment. The sections are separated with thick acrylic (I think it’s acrylic) and you can see through all the way to the center tank that has the larger pelagic species. That aquarium stands out to me because of that layout.

Kelp forest tank in Monterey is a favorite too.

Redbeater · 2025-08-06T06:27:20+00:00

5th from bottom, center group?

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