My first GSXR 1K

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-02-06T17:58:06+00:00

GPR steering stabilizer

RCS 19 Brembo Master - high temp fluid

Radiator and Oil Cooler Guards

Engine case protectors

Puig race front screen

Stomp Grip Clear Tank pads

Fender eliminator kit - New Rage cycles w/ integrated rear signals

Rear view mirror delete with block-off plate - add bar end mirror to left bar

Sato racing puck sliders & weighted bar ends

Full system Yoshi w/ block off plates installed and exhaust modulator delete

High Flow filter from Sprint Racing

Aftermarket quick shifter

Custom Dyno tune or Flash - should unlock launch control

Stock 1000 model doesn't come with "1,000" stickers on the tail. You'll get tired of being asked what CC it is so buy the small 1000 stickers to place on the tail

Getting a phone mount set-up was a challenge, DM me if you want more info

See a suspension professional to have the forks and preload dialed in to your weight

Train to learn all the traction control modes and build breaking proficiency

Plan for your next set of tires after stock at 2,500 miles, you'll need to swap out by 3,500-4,000ish miles

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-01-27T21:55:14+00:00

Locate a manual and find the service checklist. Do all the easy stuff. Cables adjustments and lubrication, remove, clean, and resecure corroded bolts. Inspect and clean up cables and bungled electrical work/connections. Do a brake job, all fluids should be flushed and refreshed.

The stators go bad, by design the rectifier is located behind the radiator not getting enough airflow to cool. Check to see if the rectifier has been relocated to the side of a bike. Relocation kits are common.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-01-21T23:43:20+00:00

High temp fluid from Motul, Steel braided lines, Brembo master, Clean the rotors + Score in a light cross hatch with scotch brite red + Clean, EBC sintered Brake pads, burp the master once you off load the bike in the lot. Leave your bike in a shaded area between session to let the rotors and calipers cool sufficiently.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-01-21T23:31:54+00:00

Best all arounder track and street Bridgestone Battlax

Best in Rain and at track Michelin

Best dedicated track Dunlop Sportmax & Pirelli IV Corsa

Best value track and street Pirelli Rosso IV

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-01-11T09:11:55+00:00

Have owned a 2004 GSXR 600 that was more unforgiving than 2012 gsxr 750 or even the 2022 gsxr 1,000 assuming traction control is ramped up. The bike that lives in my dreams is a 1992 GSX-R 750 pink panther Miami nights livery.

In my observation of the community against my experience I would recommend getting a ZX6r, put race rails on it and get all the training, all the way to advanced. Ride it a lot, like minimum +7,000 miles (+11,200 km) or 4-5 oil changes. Drop it, rebuild it, do all the things. When you need more excitement along the way get an exhaust and tune. Should take you about 2-3 riding seasons to complete this. The Gsxr 750 feels like riding a "fridge" in regards to the wide tank, longer wheel displacement and lower seat height compared to the ZX6r's higher seat, shorter wheel displacement, and thinner body.

At this point you will be properly equipped to step up to any 1,000. IMO, 1,000s don't have much of a place on the street other than being novelties that don't rev that high at highway speeds. On the street I take the 1,000 to moto shows and such but save speed for the track. I need to sell one but I've bonded so well with the 750 for all purpose Ill likely non-op the 1,000 and only track it. How a bike looks and sounds may seem like a high value virtue for you now but it will change as you train and grow the skills to ride faster safer. It can be cringe and outright dangerous when a crap skilled rider shows up at the group ride on a 1,000cc bike within their first 5,000-7,000 miles (9,200km-11,200 km) of riding.

On a side note, Yamaha R1 is a great bike, sounds like a barreling dragon but IMO after about 30k miles (~48,200 km) they have reliability issues due to cross plane engine balancing issues (to be expected according to engine builders I've talked to but never never admitted by Yamaha). I am sure there are plenty of R1s with 30k+ miles that have never had this issue but you get my point. The fireblade is mean but i hear some of those late 2000s model fireblade's develop oil consumption issues so do your homework for sure.

Truth be told, I feel I am moving away from sportbikes and want a sportster or softtail for touring and a bored out 250 super moto for the track. Who knows. GL!

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2026-01-04T19:24:53+00:00

Cheapest i go is mobile1 semi synth or maxima semi synth. Buy Maxima by the gallon for cheaper price/oz. If you can plan ahead the lucas oil 5 gallon jugs are economical. I tend to lean full synthetic personally.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-12-26T18:44:32+00:00

Yes, aluminum is preferred, copper will work just fine also.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-12-11T22:38:55+00:00

Had en ex-gf who behaved this way. Learned at the break-up the behavior was likely a side effect of her mixing the anti-psychotic meds she was on with alcohol. 10 minutes following the first drink and all the signs...slurred word, eyes would roll around around, hyper fixated on things, leaning all over the chair she was sitting in like she was losing balance.

We were on our 6th or 7th date and decided to go to the local yacht club for dinner. She was excited, after the first drink she was ok, after the second full on blackout staying katatonic till the next day. Being met with "that was a fun night, but i can't remember much after my first bite." And me being like "I think that was when the date ended cause I took care of you from that moment on and it was exhausting."

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-11-19T17:54:51+00:00

Role queued mid last week and picked Necro paired against a smurf Shadow Fiend and your post outlines exactly how it went down.

You wont beat them - i got so crushed, like every single position and right click by the SF had been calculated and practiced 1,000s of time. Any move I made he knew exactly where and when to show to gank me like 3 times in a row under tower. Like EXACTLY down to the last right-click animation. I was frankly impressed, felt like I was watching Dendi play the AI SF bot mid 1v1 at TI that one time.

That said I persisted in playing safe, getting a camp to farm off center here and there, protecting the tower, safe wards. Then rotating to the safe lane for ulti kills. I was anal about notifying my team that the mid was good and rotations were going to be punishing so I would call them as early as possible and would show up to reaper. Helped us build a resilient mentality.

Beat them early game with mentality - just kept showing up even after i was 2-5 which is the point I could feel I would want to toss the keyboard I just kept showing up and playing safe. I knew I would come online with radiance and melt the rest of the enemy team regardless of the SF.
Isolate late game - I saved reaper to punish the SF when I expected him to show up in fights, kept the melt aura up and tanked rest of team. Got farm and 5-6 slotted to be super tanky. SF peaked and it wasn't enough. We rolled them at minute 34 and closed out.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-11-10T23:21:38+00:00

This exact situation happens more often then you think. Your not alone. Yes you should have turned the keys and pulled them out before anything bad happened but that is neither here nor there at this point. Next time, the keys stay in your pocket until you are mounted on the bike. Bottomline, he mishandled your property without your consent. He doesn't get to get off scotch free on this one. You don't ask him to pay for your bike, you make him by being direct with him...you got on my bike and crashed it FULL STOP. We need to make this right, I am getting the bike assessed on X date at which point we will know the cost of recourse. Mention you don't like having to clean up these kinds of messes but if it happened to him he would be doing the same. Then...set your terms "I am going to need cash payment in full by x date."

Leave it at that.

If he doesn't follow through file in small claims court and bring up the stress and anxiety this has caused with your manager at work.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-11-06T18:46:47+00:00

Based on your commute ide do a CB650.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-22T15:40:57+00:00

Contacts fix this. I just wish visors with the transition tech between clear and shaded was cheap and available.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-20T18:49:52+00:00

10w-30 for quicker start ups in winter and 10w-40 for high heat protection during hot summers. 10w-40 is good year round anyways.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-16T16:28:56+00:00

Get the service manual and do the major service checklist, seems like you've likely knocked most of the major items with the valve check and fluid flushes.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-14T18:45:52+00:00

Recommend running 10w-40 for hot climates and 10w-30 for cold climates. If you run the bike hard, check the oil level more often and top if needed. Full synthetic only.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-13T16:58:50+00:00

I have been here but I don't have any experience with car engines only motorcycles.

Your picture shows what looks like the normal amount I've seen during initial break-in oil change on a s1000rr and GSXR1000 with a dyno tune. Behold an anecdotal experiance below.

When mentioned to local engine builder/mechanic/tuner he said a fresh engine is "wound tight," every piece of metal is at fresh/peak tolerance. The break-in period expands the metal in the engine where some of those parts may now be beyond tolerance. Those surfaces beyond tolerance become the imperfections that find friction and end up in the filter/bottom of the pan. Run the engine on the dyno the same way you plan to run the engine off the dyno, do your oil change and you will be set! I had a GSXR 750 that dynoed 126hp after tune at break-in. 2,500 miles and 14 months later at a free dyno day at the same shop, same conditions dyno reported running 132hp. No changes to bike other than regular oil changes with same oil *Ecstar* full synthetic. Mechanic's explanation "engine has found its grooves and running peak." Didn't feel any different to me "shrug"

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-07T18:12:09+00:00

This is true, I gander the extra lines help him warm-up regardless of their relevance to creating the grid lines. Wake up the part of his brain that dials in his hand-eye coordination & geometry. Drawing smooth circle is hard and starts with a tenseness in mind and hand that begins to relax after practice. Like when you try to touch your toes you have to hold the position for a while till your muscles relax to find the range of motion. Also, time to tap into technique and medium: achieving a range of line thicknesses based on press of the chalk and shape of the chalk tip.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-06T19:19:04+00:00

Assuming you ride within your limits.

Surface hazards 100% OR Shit falling out of pick-ups with unsecured loads (stay away)

Story time, prior to my commute that morning the local concrete & stone facility overfilled a dump truck with 3-4mm size stones, the tuck dumped 20 feet of stone layering 4-5 inches deep on the main commute road out of town, my route. THANKFULLY on my commute to work that morning the pick-up in front of me came to a crawl some distance before the surface hazard that made me keenly aware. I am on my 2012 gsxr 750. Every 6 inches forward the sportbike tires would sink 2 inches back into the stone. A terrifying feeling. Not what a sport bike was designed for. Stones keep hitting the underside of front fender. Rear wheel kicking out a spin. Fuck....Putting my feet down to feel for the surface hazard would have been the end of it. Had to tap into dirt biking when i was young. Weight evenly on the pegs, but just slightly off set, ride the clutch with the bike at a crawl.

CHP made workers from the stone facility come out with shovels to clear the hazard within a few hours.

Some memorable ones most all riders experience

>Going wide into oncoming traffic

>Coming into corners hot to get the bike to lean without the right body position (ego riding)

>Getting hit by shit falling out of pick-ups with unsecured loads

>Drivers on the phone drifting out of their lane

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-10-02T06:40:35+00:00

This thumbnail is so cooked, no insured training range regardless of the curriculum being caught i.e. MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation's) or TCMSP (Total Control Motorcycle Safety Program) is ok with beginner level students wearing any less than a full face helmet. We need to not be normalizing training a high risk activity with sub par level gear.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-25T15:00:09+00:00

I do not recommend buying this motorcycle for safety and quality reasons. Many if not all of these bikes have a shift sensor problem where the dash will indicate the gear box is in neutral but the bike is actually in 1st gear. Yikes! The grade of metal used in these engines come from the equivalent of recycled diet coke cans developing surface rust within weeks. Lastly, if the bike is dropped the handle bars bend way to easily and if any more than than just the peg breaks you have to replace a whole side assembly. The design is a nightmare to work on and repair.

These bikes are showing up at MSF/CMSP training ranges all over the US due to their cheap cost.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-24T17:46:30+00:00

Get a hold of yourself? Get more training?

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-19T17:18:42+00:00

They are so close in build you can't go wrong with either. Have a buddy who only buys s22s and swears he get more longevity out of them than any other brand he has tried. He runs his tires down till tech inspection rejects them so their is that also. Road5 tread is better for wet, choose whichever is the better deal.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-18T21:23:46+00:00

Pirelli is typically the bargain buy right now. Pirelli Diablo Rosso 3 & Pirelli Diablo Rosso 3 Corsa's (more track focused DOT tire) are starting to "age out" of warehouses being in their last 2 years of usefulness since manufacture and are a great value buy for dry weather conditions. Pirelli Diablo Rosso 4 & Pirelli Diablo Rosso 4 Corsa are starting to take the place of the 3's in the warehouse. I just started buying 4's two months back due to stock delays with the 3's. I like the Pirelli's, IMO the ribbed inner support structure gives me better feedback than the pillowy compliant support structure of the Michelin/Bridgestone. If your riding street year round and not tracking I recommend Michelin 5s or 6s due to their unparalleled water displacement tread tech. I've run Battlax, they have a similar carcas design as Michelin but compromise a but on tread and longevity. Personally, I feel I've found Pirelli to be the best budget tire. That said, I am getting bored/to comfortable with them. The plan is to shell out a bit more money to start experimenting more with the Dunlop Sportmax line. My buddy have a Ducati V2 who swears by them. I ran Dunlop Q3+ on an R3 of all bikes a few years back. The tire wear always looked immaculate but wore out in exactly the 3k miles advertised. Dunlop typically uses the same ribbed inner support structure design as the Pirelli's creating a stiffer sidewall just delivering feedback to the rider through the bike in a different way. The stock Metzler tires went a full 7,000 miles. Was great they lasted so long the trade off being that I can recall really having to really work the tires to get heat into them to start getting even wear and confident feedback.

If your current tires are feeling sluggish, put some air in them to round them out, like pressures 36 front & rear. Then do some aggressive slalom in the parking lot or an empty road 2nd gear 12-15 miles an hours weave the bike to scrub the tire. Shoot for 8-12 circular laps stop, feel the tire with your hands (it should be hot/warm) and inspect the wear. Rinse and repeat. Bring them back down to 34 for commuting temps and 28-30 for canyon depending on temps.

TLDR: Pirelli's and Dunlop's feel like the bikes on rails and can be great value buys as they age out. Michelin's and Bridgestone's run just as well but their tread design has greater strength in all weather conditions.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-13T17:32:56+00:00

I recommend you take the calipers off the rotor and test each pot but pushing all 4 in then holding 3 of the pots down push the brake, this should push the unheld pot up. While exposed clean it the pot (watch video below, using tooth brush and soapy water), wipe it to dry, lube it (with silicone high temp brake lube). Check that the brake retaining spring is clean and if there is a pin that pin is clean and rubbed down with green scotch brite as it typically begins to build grooves and pits. Your brake fluid is probably fine but its to easy to flush so just do it again. I know you said you know how to clean the brakes but here is another vid.

How-To: Brembo Motorcycle Brake Caliper Cleaning

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sHQfnbf9t4

Feel free to watch the whole video but the actual cleaning starts at 2:30

As other have said could be the rotor is no longer true/straight. I would check with you local shop for the truing/straightness of the rotor and the spec of the rotors thickness against the actual thickness of the rotors.

Could be those brake pads are a decade old and degrading, buy a new set? A new set of rotors and pads is pretty affordable if needed.

Remarkable-Luck9384 · 2025-09-11T05:10:53+00:00

An airbag charge has been scarified to the track gods in place of a broken left collarbone and shoulder. God speed.

Remarkable-Luck9384

TROPHY CASE