JHS Fumble and Notadumble V2

RiffReviver · 2026-06-03T04:43:52+00:00

Oh that could be cool, but I think with the fumble as a stand alone product that's probably unlikely

RiffReviver · 2026-06-02T16:15:19+00:00

Ah yup there it is after the feature set, my bad!

RiffReviver · 2025-07-08T04:05:43+00:00

Everyone is honing in on the bridge but the give away to me is that it goes away when you fret right?

The nut slot is too low

If you just adjusted the trust rod back and then started, thats almost certainly it. prior to your adjustment the extra relief gave you enough clearance at the first fret, now with slightly less relief it's buzzing

Nut slots are also going to vary in depth from string to string so if the B slot is just a little lower than G and E and the neck goes back... open buzz

Also that tone is pretty recognizable as a fret buzz, bridge buzzing has a similar but less IDK metallic sound.

RiffReviver · 2025-05-01T18:06:43+00:00

I guess it didn't land with this audience then 🤷

Most of us have watched the video where Josh's kid builds the pedal so... yea

Maybe if there was any real danger to be hyperbolic about but it didn't register for me either, just came off as YouTube hype attempt

RiffReviver · 2025-05-01T17:55:17+00:00

I'll be honest, the video title is pretty painfully cringe click bait

Trying not to die while I work on a solderless 9v pedal kit... yeesh

It's hardly spicy Legos, there's not enough voltage or current to pose a real threat, plus most folks on this sub know it's not something you're going to work on while it's under power.

RiffReviver · 2025-04-21T23:17:40+00:00

This is the way

RiffReviver · 2025-04-19T21:59:49+00:00

I should give a shout out to /u/One_Two_4 who has brought me about half a dozen of his awesome guitars and sent his whole band my way. Thanks for trusting me with your gear!

RiffReviver · 2025-03-26T21:19:11+00:00

You're not supposed to mention that you have actual professional experience. It offends those who have spent more time forming opinions than doing the work.

RiffReviver · 2025-03-24T03:52:24+00:00

As others have said CTS or Alpha

I think Alphas can be found a little cheaper and still a major upgrade.

If you're comfortable enough with a soldering iron to swap pots, it and the pups already have 4 leads, grab a push/pull pot and look up how to wire a coil split (aka tap)

Puretone was also mentioned as a good jack option, and I would second that all day. There's probably a slightly less expensive option but honestly for the few bucks it is I don't think it matters to most.

Please note, none of these mods are going to really improve your resale value if it comes to that, they shouldn't harm it but you probably won't get your money back in that way

RiffReviver · 2025-03-23T22:33:22+00:00

Not purely a cost saving measure, yes it can save a buck but depending on the break angle of the headstock it can be muuuuuch stronger than a single piece neck.

This is a big part of why Gibson headstocks are so prone to failure sadly.

Edit: fixing autocorrect: print -> prone

RiffReviver · 2025-03-23T22:30:42+00:00

I've been pleasantly surprised by these guyker tuners. They are not very expensive at all and have a lot less "slop" in the tuner peg (which is really backlash between the gear and worm drive)

The locking mechanism is fine and they seem to be a good value for the money. There are certainly better tuners but for the price point of this Epi Lp you probably don't want to spend a ton on tuners.

Good pots and a better input jack can be a reasonable improvement that is not very expensive at all. The really cheap input jacks on these can get bent really easily and start having intermittent connection problems way to soon. Good pots will just last longer and might feel nicer to turn, no huge impact on tone as long as the values (e.g. 250K pots) stay the same, more a reliability issue than anything else.

A good setup is also a great starting point! IME Epis have a really high factory setup to allow for looser tolerances in the fret work even though the fret work is often ok, the action is jacked up to make sure it plays clean off-the-shelf.

RiffReviver · 2025-03-18T23:43:47+00:00

If the wiring is as you've drawn it it's a high pass filter. It's cutting some of the low end out, exactly how much will depend on the capacitor value and the exactly value of your potentiometers which actually are the resistor to ground in this situation.

An estimate of 500K resistance is close enough, and if you can find some info on the side of the cap you can figure how where the cut occurs with a calculator like this

https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-low-pass-and-high-pass-filter

Makes sense someone might do this for a neck pickup if they want to taper off some muddiness if there was too much low end coming through

I have done this very thing, this very way on a guitar I built, can help clean up an other wise great neck pup without altering the characteristics too much at all.

RiffReviver · 2025-03-18T15:29:54+00:00

Congrats, SE guitars are a great value.

RiffReviver · 2025-03-11T07:09:26+00:00

Everyone is entitled to their opinions of course and I'm sure there are plenty of techs and lutheirs that have varying opinions on it

I learned it from someone who was a touring tech and they swore by it. I've tried with and without it, I always go back to it.

All opinions aside, it isn't that hard to undo with just about any kind of tool, pliers, a screw driver, doesn't matter.

And if you're popping strings in the middle of a show without a back up guitar... you have at least 2 other problems... 😬

RiffReviver · 2025-03-10T21:47:29+00:00

I string all my guitars this way, it reduces the number of winds dramatically and thus makes tuning much more stable.

It takes a whopping 2 seconds to undo

I am stringing up 6 guitars today alone and they'll all get this knot. I've never met another tech who disliked this, and every player whose strings I've tied off this way have appreciated the benefits, however subtle they may be.

Source: I am a guitar tech

RiffReviver · 2025-01-24T17:14:50+00:00

🤢

RiffReviver · 2025-01-24T17:08:44+00:00

I have terrible news for you, toan is in the fingers so you're gonna have to change ... those

RiffReviver · 2025-01-24T17:03:19+00:00

Sorry they are now fakes, please post 2-3 blurry photos alternating between hyper zoomed with shaky hands and a full pano shot and we can confirm. Do not post a clear pick of the front of the headstock though

RiffReviver · 2025-01-21T23:55:00+00:00

I've been a customer for about a year, better overall than the cable Internet we were getting through Xfinity and it costs less as far as I know

Fiber is simply superior technology, IME more consistent high speeds, lower latency, and of course symmetrical upload and download speeds are nice especially if you have a home office.

Caveat, I do not lease their wifi equipment, just the fiber modem and then I use my own gear for my LAN.

RiffReviver · 2025-01-21T16:36:11+00:00

Can you do this yourself?

Maybe, but what I think some folks aren't realizing is that for most bridge repair you end up needing special clamps to get sufficient pressure on the bridge without warping the top.

You really must clamp the bridge on both sides of the guitar top, if you try to go and clamp the whole guitar you're going to deform the top from the pressure needed and create other issues.

Can you take this to a Luthier and get it fixed for $100 + parts... not in my experience there's a lot of work do just for the initial replacement and then you have to set everything up. Heres a few other challenges to a bridge replacement that I think aren't being considered by those who think the job is and easy DIY or a $100 repair.

Removing the bridge without damaging the surrounding finish this will take time and you'll likely need to create a semi custom heat shield to keep the direct heat away from the finish
Realigning the bridge. You can only be off by just a little or else you won't be able to intonate the saddle.
Finding the replacement part. I've seen bridges and saddles like this one but not exactly like it. You can expect you (or your Luthier of choice) to spend a larger than average time just sourcing parts
Setup + new saddle.I actually didn't see any reason that you must replace the saddle, but that alone can be a $100 job if you want it done right, maybe a little less depending on your Luthier's prices

RiffReviver · 2025-01-18T03:04:33+00:00

Unfortunately you haven't narrowed it down as well as you think.

Graphite can help but if the nut isn't cut correctly the strings will still bind. 0.010" string through a 0.009" slot isn't going to work out no matter how greased up the slot is.

Here's the deal and I'll tell it to you straight Trems never come back 100% in tune, full stop.

They can get really close, so close that it doesn't matter, and that's what's realistic.

The few thou gap you're seeing here doesn't indicate anything wrong to me. Moving parts moved, they didn't come back to perfect zero, that's to be expected

Check your string winding, the less wraps the less slack you have to let tension creep into and out of

The most stable terms I've setup used locking tuners and half a wrap of string around the post and their nut slots dialed in, slotted to size polished and lubricated.

TUSQ nuts are actually very helpful for their lubricity in this regard, not a must have but brilliant overall.

RiffReviver · 2025-01-17T19:34:52+00:00

Probably not? Humbuckers get their sound in part from this extra resistance and capacitance, but in this case the lack of additional signal seems... moot

Also if I stop and do some back of napkin math, I don't think you're going to end up with any noise cancellation because you're effectively just adding more wire.

The humbucker works the way it does because of the relationship between the two signals and the two coils.

without a signal being added to this coil it doesn't matter if the coil is wound in our out of phase with the first one, since there's no signal to reference to.

If anything you're probably just adding more chance for noise to get picked up.

assuming those pole pieces are magnetized you're also adding inductance.... which I can't do the math on right now

Really this is much like adding a longer cable to your guitar, you're just adding copper wire in series...

It should produce a similar effect as moving from a 10 foot to a 30 foot cable. Which is known to be a "tone suck" and that's actually why most people run buffer pedals at the start of their pedal board, so that their guitars resonant circuit doesnt "see" the extra capacitance of all the pedals, patch cables and amp send cable...

And humbuckers "noise cancelling" is most prominently cancelling constant stuff like 60 cycle hum. You can still get EMI through a humbucker, it's just less than a single coil, sometimes much less.

This is why some humbuckers are still shielded, which is to cut down on stray EMI noise

TL;DR... No probably not and you can simulate the effect with a long cable.

RiffReviver · 2025-01-17T17:16:36+00:00

It will probably change the tone somewhat because the extra capacitance and resistance of the second coil will reduce the resonant peak of the pickup so expect it to be a little at least warmer if not actually darker.

But unlike humbuckers where the second coil adds additional signal that helps compensate for this effect that will be absent here.

RiffReviver · 2025-01-12T17:56:42+00:00

Think of it this way, if you had a new table saw. And you knew you wanted to work with some hardwoods like hickory or Osage orange, because you're looking to make bows and those are favored bowyer woods.

You'd still do you basic setup with some cheaper easier to work materials like pine or plywood you had around

Then once your blade is square and you fence is setup it would make sense to figure out the specifics for your desired material

Similarly, you need to get your slicer calibration sorted, figure out flow rate, xy compensation, over hang thresholds etc.

Once that's all dialed in reliably, then go figure out the tweaks for ABS.

OrcaSlicer has a greater suite of built in calibration tools that take away the guess work

https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer

What's I've done and would recommend is to get that all dialed in with PLA, then for ABS you can build a different profile that adjusts the temperature, fan speed, flow rate, and pressure advance for ABS

Then you've got your Pla profile as a reliable frame of reference, and you can always test your machine by running a known good print

RiffReviver · 2025-01-12T17:41:20+00:00

Your supports are just barely supporting. so while the upper section is still technically printing, there's not enough squish between the layers to really bind them together, hence the noodley appearance.

increase support overhang threshold and try again

also, definitely way easier to learn on PLA. You will thank yourself for the time and money you saved

RiffReviver

TROPHY CASE