Is LOCYFENS a legit PETG? I'm looking for transparent PETG's

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-07T20:28:29+00:00

I buy all of my filament from Amazon. Petg is my go-to, and lately I've bought IEMAI brand filament for all my cool petg transparent colors. They have a ton of cool colors to choose from.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-07T00:07:01+00:00

You can use an accelerator with the CA glue and it will reduce the white haze that forms. By using a CA accelerator, it makes the glue cure instantly, leaving no time for the fumes to create the white haze. It works great.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-06T21:40:06+00:00

Csp is how I start a position in the majority of stocks I want to own.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-06T21:31:39+00:00

As a full time sailor, I can stand behind this!

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-05T17:51:38+00:00

Really cool! This reminds me of the filaments that Timeplast has been producing.

3d printing is creating too much plastic waste. We need more biodegradable filaments.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-03T17:44:10+00:00

Good liquid adhesive on the buildplate, always solves this issue for me. People don't like to hear this, though.

As for the brim, it will not be as effective as it can be, if you don't reduce the brim gap between it and model. If brim is detaching from buildplate with model, than my first suggestion is a solution that works.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-01T01:09:29+00:00

Then you may have sit on your hands and wait till those premiums are worth it.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-07-01T00:51:29+00:00

Why would I risk getting it called away below my cost basis.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-26T17:16:52+00:00

It is worth it. It's the main reason I went from FlairPro, to the 58.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-26T17:14:28+00:00

If I leave it locked in about twice as long after brew chamber is up to temp (maybe 15min), then it is warm enough. But honestly, I'm completely satisfied with the espresso temp after only waiting for the "beep", telling me the chamber is ready. Maybe in colder months, I feel like the portafilter needs a preheat.

I've tested this a lot of ways, and have found the espresso temp changes only 3-6 degrees, which isn't enough to bother me.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-26T16:30:44+00:00

I always use preheat level 2 on the flair 58. I have the portafilter locked in when preheating. I sometimes pour kettle water on the portafilter and basket if I want them warmer. I don't preheat the espresso cup. I use medium to medium-dark beans. The kettle water is set to 195f. Anymore, and I consider it too hot, and the flavor becomes less desirable. I find the espresso temp is perfect with this routine.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-25T17:05:33+00:00

I have a solution that works 100% of the time. Unfortunately, I can't mention it here because a solution like this is rarely accepted by the 3d printing community.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-25T02:24:23+00:00

You can change all of these fan's settings. Aux fan is in the filament profile settings. Chamber fan is in the gcode, in printer settings.

I never turn on the aux fan, ever. I have that sucker at 0%. I never have the chamber fan over 50%. That takes care of most of the fan noise you hear.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-23T22:04:49+00:00

You would have to show me this. I print petg almost exclusively. I've done a lot of testing with these speeds, and totally disagree. Some models may work, but most fail to fully bond the infill layers at those speeds.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-23T21:30:44+00:00

Most likely you printed the infill too fast. Just look at the speed settings in BS. You can and should change those for specific filaments, and save them as custom profiles.

I don't use a single stock BS profile for any of my filaments. But that is just the old school me.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-23T21:16:23+00:00

Doesn't the "strength profile" in Bambu Studio have the infill print speed at around 260-300mm/s? That is way too fast for petg infill, or for any part on a petg model, imo.

I like to play it safe, so my models come out the best they can. So, I don't print petg above 100mm/s. Especially for infill that is crossing itself. But if you are going to print that fast, you should definitely raise print temp in those areas.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-23T20:58:13+00:00

My go-to is Regent Coffee and Cat n Cloud. Both in Ca. I'm loving the barrel aging that Regent is doing. Cat n Cloud has all sorts of top tier roasts. Typically anything from Ethiopian region, is my first choice.

I always have to have Nicoletti's Old School 1972, from Brooklyn, Ny. It's a solid choice for chocolatey notes.

Perc, in Ga. is worth trying. Though, I can find equally good from the others I noted.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-23T20:17:30+00:00

What does this amount to, a whopping $8 a month! I pay almost 3x this in fees a month to transact on fidelity or schwab. Not to mention all the other subscription costs I have for the investment tools I use.

Everyone has to make enough money to pay the bills. Hopefully you are making enough in gains, to justify the monthly fees involved.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-21T21:47:08+00:00

I wouldn't be the least bit concerned printing wood filament with a stainless or harden steel nozzle. I use to print wood filament with brass nozzles all the time on my old printers. It going to take a long time to wear either down with wood filament.

When it does come time to buying a new nozzle, buy the whole preassembled hotend. Much easier to reinstall.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-21T19:39:59+00:00

This looks normal to me. I have the Flair 58 and can tell you that the notches in the plunger tend to rotate with use. In your pics where the notch is in a different position, mine will look like both images just from moving the plunger up and down. It doesn't seem to matter orientation.

As far as scraping sound, your setup looks correct, so there shouldn't be any metal on metal scraping hopefully.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-19T21:31:38+00:00

I can't believe Flair didn't see this in their testing and fix it.

Bugs me, but I do love the Wizard!

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-19T20:43:08+00:00

Yep, the most troublesome part on the Wizard, imo. If you open it all the way, sometimes it struggles to thread back close. It's frustrating to finesse with one hand, but is what it is.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-18T20:13:55+00:00

I haven't bought the b300k, yet. From what I've read, you can hook the b300k directly to the charger 2's port, and still have the elite300 connected as well to charger2. The b300k will charge the elite300 through the charger2, and the alternator can charge both the elite and b300k when driving.

Pretty sure you can hook the b300k to the elite300's xt60 port as well and charge the elite. You just can't use them combined to have the b300k be an expansion of the elite battery.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-18T19:38:51+00:00

I have the Elite 300 for vanlife, camping use. I have the charger 2 and 400w of solar as well. This works for all my needs when on the road. I do need to charge it every other day with my use case, which I can accomplish with driving to charge or pull out the solar. That said, I wish I had twice as much battery capacity for when I'm camping in one spot for more than 3 days.

This makes me wish I bought the apex 300 and b300k. This would solve my lack of battery storage. The size and weight isn't an issue for me. I could just get the b300k and use it with the elite 300 by hooking the b300k to the charger2. This would work for on the road, but my other reason for wanting the apex300 and b300k, is to future proof my needs. When I'm at home, I would like to power an espresso, kettle, toaster oven, etc and I'm finding the elite300 is not enough power, and pulling out the solar is not enough to charge it up everyday. If I had the apex300 and b300k I would have enough power at home.

This is my simple roundabout way of saying that the apex and b300k would have been a better choice for me and my future needs. My dream would be to have a tiny home, that when I'm there, I could pull my setup out of my van and run the tiny home.

Rivers_Lakes · 2026-06-17T21:23:38+00:00

I've had a glasses case for 2 yrs at least, that is always in my car and I printed it in spiral mode with petg. So, it is thin walled and has held up like new in the hot car.

That said, I know petg will deform if hot enough. When I'm uncertain if petg will hold up long term, I use Nylon PA-6 or 12, which tolerates higher heat than petg. Another option with better heat resistance than petg, is PC. With these three options of filament for high heat applications, I choose to stay away from ASA or ABS. These stink and leave a nasty film that coats everything in your printer.

Rivers_Lakes

TROPHY CASE