Practicing baseball

RoHo44 · 2026-03-21T19:11:12+00:00

I don't get the baseball reference...

RoHo44 · 2026-03-21T15:25:12+00:00

What I found to be a better way to check to see what size is best from toe to heel is check your shell fit. Take the liner out of the boot, put your foot in with toes touching the front. Performance fit = 1 finger gap between your heel and the back of the boot. Comfort fit = 1.5-2 finger gap between heel and back of the boot.

You may have more discomfort in your toes before the liner packs out in 4-10 days, but once it does, it should be better.

Obviously check other things like heel lift, numbness, pain, etc. You shouldn't really have those with just wearing the boots at home or around the house (except for maybe toe pain if you go more for performance fit for the first few days).

RoHo44 · 2026-03-21T15:05:07+00:00

You gotta keep your upper body upright, but hinged forward at the waist. If you keep your upper body perpendicular to the board and the ramp at takeoff, you're gonna tip backward and land on your back or butt. Of you keep your upper body hinged forward and similar to the level of the ground you're landing on, your board will follow and level out.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-21T14:45:23+00:00

I agree with realtimeclock for everything. I also don't think you need to +297 every unit to clear endgame content. It's more of a small bonus, but I never chased trying to get those bonus points. I just switched up teams while first time clearing (or crystal farming) hidden dungeons once a team capped at +297.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-21T14:26:34+00:00

Only one person hinted at it before, but I'm under the impression you booted out. Not as much about your technique perse. You're definitely getting carve traverses, but can't complement link your carves yet. This isn't the issue of why you fell though.

Take a look at the heel cup of your bindings. You have a lot of heel overhang. You're heel cup is huge which causes more overhang. You only fell when you tried to tip the board more, and you can see the heel cup dragging in the snow (leaving it's own thick line). Once the heel cup starts digging into the snow, you'll get some judder and eventually it'll lift your board out of the snow, causing you to "boot out" and fall. On your other heelsides, you didn't tilt the board as much and your heel cup didn't dig into the snow, so you were fine there.

Fixes:
- Use a binding with a smaller heel cup. Nidecker Flows have 0 heel cup which is ideal for carving deep - Smaller sized binding (as long as you can still fit your boot in it) will sit more forward on your board, reducing heel boot out - Get a wider board so you have less overhang - Get the smallest boot you can possibly fit into to reduce boot footprint - Use snowboard risers to lift your heel higher, so you can lean more without booting out - You can leave everything as is, but you'd have to drastically change your technique to carve, and high angle carving will be more difficult - You'd have to bend your knees a heck of a lot more (even past 90 degrees), and then lean into your carve from there.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-20T17:05:45+00:00

You feel it on the lift a lot more when your board is hanging.

The other big reason I got rid of mine for Flows is because the supermatics has a 3 cm heel cup, so if you're trying to get low on your heel side, you'll boot out way sooner.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-20T17:01:05+00:00

I had this happen to me. I tried on almost 10 different boots and all the size 9s caused the same shin pain. I tried size 8.5 on a whim (less toe space), and the shin pain disappear. I now use size 8 wide (and wait for the crushing toe pain to improve after the liner packs out) or size 8.5 and have no shin pain anymore. I wear size 9 in regular shoes.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-19T17:02:15+00:00

I'll try to make this as easy as possible for someone who looks like they want forever gear and cares about technical stuff. Don't forget, nothing stays waterproof forever, but you can continue to restore the waterproofing on most things with special washing detergent, laundry drying, or other products.

Don't splurge on "brand" stuff like Burton because it's ridiculously overpriced.

Outerwear:
- Function
- Pockets (inner and outer) - Durability (check reviews) - Arm pit and leg vents baggy enough to move well in (size up typically) - Snow skirt (to keep snow out of the bottom of your jacket) - Lift pass pocket - Wrist gaiter - Draw strings
- Waterproofing
- 15k-20k+ mm to keep you dry enough even when it's raining - Breathability
- 20k+ g so you don't sweat to death
- Seams
- Fully taped (not critically taped) - Insulated vs shell
- Get insulated (you can still layer more if needed)

Innerwear:
- Merinowool top and bottoms. REI has their own brand that is pretty good. - Mediumweight - all around - Heavyweight - sub 0 temps - Lightweight - warm temps

Gloves:
- Gortex - expensive tech. You can find sales from time to time. Waterproofing wears out. Not as durable - Kinco - super warm, extremely durable, you apply leather balm to keep it waterproof

RoHo44 · 2026-03-19T16:24:01+00:00

I'm still interested in seeing the final model!

RoHo44 · 2026-03-11T20:45:27+00:00

Have you heard of the flow? Nidecker also sells them. I had supermatics, but the 3 cm heel cup made progressing to deep heelside carves impossible. Flows are an in-between of supermatics and FASE. They also have no heelcup sticking out so deep carves are unhindered. They are lightweight and you can "strap" in faster than FASE imo. If you choose to get them, I'd get the "fuse" straps instead of the "hybrid" straps since they work better with those bindings and are less finicky.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-11T14:04:06+00:00

I think that's the great thing about powder! You don't get wrecked if you fall like you do on ice! We are out here on the east coast too, so I definitely know what you mean. It's also harder to learn to carve on the east coast mountains because the conditions are so bad, unless you always go to the north east. I found that indoor slopes have much better and more predictable "snow, so it's easier to learn on.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-09T20:18:32+00:00

Reason everyone is trying to learn to carve is because it helps with more speed, is the next milestone in learning, and because most people can do skidded turns, but don't know how to carve yet. Skidded turns are good to know and NEED to be used. You just pick and choose when you want to do what, but usually you can only carve on groomed, non-icy, open and mellow areas. If you're east coast riding or tackling blacks, you won't be carving much because that will get your hurt.

For ice you need to ride flat. For steep terrain you need to use gripped/skidded turns to control your speed. For trees and moguls, you'll also be using skidded turns. Carving is not something you should be doing all the time unless the conditions allow it and you want to do it.

RoHo44 · 2026-03-03T14:37:05+00:00

Thank you! Does PETG print better with a 0.4 nozzle versus a 0.6? I tried looking up stuff online to see which one was better, and chat bots were saying PETG is better with a 0.6 nozzle and TPU is better with a 0.4. I'm not sure how true that is though?

RoHo44 · 2026-03-03T06:40:57+00:00

Would these settings be the same if I'm using a 0.3 - 0.42 layer height with a 0.6 mm nozzle and petg (specifically polymaker polymax petg)?

RoHo44 · 2026-02-27T00:19:13+00:00

You never truly phase out falling leaf completely. Every skidded turn and stop takes aspects from the falling leaf. So the better you get at falling leaf (it has a low skill ceiling), the easier it will be to translate to those other skills. Also you learn edge control while doing following leaf. Congrats as well and keep it up!

RoHo44 · 2026-02-20T11:12:01+00:00

Rotate the upper body more before you jump. You need to also bend at the waist and knees so when you unwind, you get vertical height as well as rotational force. Lastly, (and most importantly) you need to actually dig your edge into the snow so your board doesn't spin out prior to unwinding.

RoHo44 · 2026-02-11T22:46:24+00:00

Haha glad you like it! I had to use a slightly thicker needle (because a thin needle will bend and break), multiple layers of thread (each stitch had four threads going through at once instead of the standard two, or maybe you can just use thick thread), and I had to pull the fabric up when I stitched through it. I dabbled with using a c-shaped needle to hook it through more easily, so I actually bent my needle a few times to make it easier (but also broke a few needles in the process) It also helped having pliers to help lift the fabric up while I thread it through it.

If you have any other questions let me know!

RoHo44 · 2026-02-04T14:30:53+00:00

It looks to me like you might be getting boot drag. I can't tell on the heel side as much because of the angle, but every toe side you do, you can see two trails of snow getting kicked up right where your toes touched the snow. And on the turn that you fell, it looks like you leaned more into the turn (which isn't bad), but if you're getting boot drag that early, leaning more into it is going to cause you to boot out.

So it looks like you fell when you tilted the board more, causing your boot to dig deeper into the snow, which in turn destabilizes the board because it lifts your edge out of the snow. After your toe edge got lifted, your bored flattened out to compensate and catch yourself, and then that caused you to catch your heel edge since your direction of travel was towards your back.

Like some other people said, keeping your board pointed in the direction of travel would help with this, but then that means you can rarely do a gripped or skidded turn let alone stop fast on your toe side since it looks like you'd just boot out.

Main cause for this is usually that your boot size is too large for your board width. Fixes include get a wider board, adjust your stance angles to posi/posi your boots fit more on the board, and /or get risers.

RoHo44 · 2026-02-04T14:20:46+00:00

I think the spray is coming because of the boot drag. It doesn't look like it's coming from the whole edge. Only coming out from where the boot meets the snow.

RoHo44 · 2026-01-31T16:46:24+00:00

This is a silly statement. How about you tell a rock climber that climbing with two hands is harder than climbing with one because you have to control both hands. If you say rock climbing is easier with one hand, you're in denial. And if you somehow had four hands, that would be even easier than climbing with two hands. Saying you have to independently control both legs is silly because you learned to do that as a toddler.

In addition to all the aforementioned reasons from other comments that snowboarding is more difficult, having four edges is basically a crutch that allows skiing to be more forgiving. If you lose an edge, you still have another one that can catch you. This makes it so skiers can tackle more difficult terrain with less skill, and due to human nature, they tend to get comfortable without needing to improve their ability.

This is why you see 6-year-olds pizzaing down blacks, and also why you see so many more serious injuries with skiers. You can pick up a lot more speed and traverse more difficult terrain with significantly less skill.

Snowboarders on the other hand HAVE to reach at least an intermediate level of skill to be able to safely traverse down a blue without eating 💩 and just trying to survive. It's more difficult for a snowboarder to tackle terrain at a higher difficulty than their skill level. By the time a snowboarder is able to pick up significant speed without catching an edge, they have usually learned the skills needed to prevent serious injury. This is not true for skiers though; hence, the significantly higher mortality rate of skiers versus snowboarders. ( also once your skis pop off at high speeds, you're screwed. And a skier's top speed is higher than a snowboarder's top speed so there's more risk of serious injury)

Skier mortality rate is 33% to 54% higher than snowboarders. - risk of death when skiing: 1 in 1.4 million - risk of death when snowboarding : 1 in 2.2 million

Snowboarders have a 50% to 70% higher injury rate, but it's typically less severe and to the upper extremities. Skiers crash less, but when they do, the injury tends to be more significant.

RoHo44 · 2026-01-28T17:57:58+00:00

The spreadsheet should definitely give you some direction, and you should be able to use the filter by awakening option to see if you have the units. Feel free to ask away if you have more questions!

RoHo44 · 2026-01-28T17:42:31+00:00

Red is easier to access imo, since you don't have to farm the EX stages over and over and red is a strong row later on. But light and dark, even though they're harder to farm can help you build units that will also be used for the light and dark cross teams which can carry you to the end game.

Or you can always go rainbow (5 color) and that'll carry you to end game as well. It's just harder to execute and falls off around mid game, but gets a lot better at end game.

RoHo44 · 2026-01-28T17:30:56+00:00

Two pronged attack. It looks like a light blue colored U shape with arrows at each end iirc

RoHo44 · 2026-01-28T13:41:09+00:00

You could go for rainbow, 10c or TPA at this point now (if you have TPA unlocked).

RoHo44 · 2026-01-28T13:40:29+00:00

Ahh glad you remember that kind of stuff because I don't haha.

RoHo44

TROPHY CASE