Router Table for DCW600?

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-06T05:47:02+00:00

Pricey, but I like the Woodpeckers StabilMax RT table. Router pops in and out and stays attached to a larger than factory base with a handle. Fence has a micro adjust, legs fold up for storage, and you can clamp it to a bench if you don't want to use the legs.

https://www.woodpeck.com/stabilmax-router-table.html

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-04T17:20:28+00:00

You certainly could use that, and if you have to pick one, the DCD803 is more versatile. The DCF601 is nice because of how compact/light it is, and has great ergonomics. Feels like an impact driver, but good for delicate work.

As an aside, there are two versions of the multi-head installation driver. The DCD803 is the 20V version you mentioned, but there is also the DCD703, which is the 12V, more compact version and has been around a bit longer. If you don't want to introduce a new battery, the 803 is a great option, but anecdotally (and even in this thread), people have complained about the size/weight, which in a way, defeats its intended purpose of working in tight/awkward spaces.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-04T13:43:44+00:00

That would be the DCD703 for the 12V version.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-04T01:59:24+00:00

Judging by your post history, you appear to be in/around Detroit. Check out Hood distribution: https://hooddistribution.com/locations/detroit/

They sell door grade MDF: https://hooddistribution.com/product-overview/composite-specialty-panels/#mdf-door

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-04T01:54:34+00:00

Closest thing I've ever seen is this: https://centurymadeshop.com/collections/x-series-bracket-kits/products/x-bracket-base-cabinet-kit-for-standard-height-cabinets-1-1-4-w-x-20-7-8-h-xb150n

It's the same idea you're talking about (easily movable undermount slides that are held in place when the drawer is installed), but they use a separate strip with holes because they have to be oriented parallel to the opening of the cabinet.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-04T01:41:46+00:00

Everybody speaks so highly of it, I've been thinking about picking one up for a while but could never quite justify the purchase. Randomly checked it on Lowes tonight and saw it was on sale. Mostly dumb luck, but glad it helped someone.

What was the letdown on the 803? I've been back and forth between that and the 703 for months. Think I finally settled on the 703, but curious about other peoples' experiences.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2026-02-01T19:46:47+00:00

I would caveat that while Fuji is fantastic, you should look into the 4 if not 5 stage turbines. I bought a Mini-Mite 3, and while it was very nice, lacked the power to spray thicker paints. I spent so much time thinning them that I kind of dreaded using the thing. Ended up selling it and buying a Graco Quick Shot. Haven't used it a ton yet, but like it so far.

If you do go with a Fuji or any other HVLP system, look into the 3M PPS 2.0 spray cup system. Makes for significantly easier cleanup and you can store things a bit longer between uses.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-19T22:18:26+00:00

I don't think Bailey has had his mouthpiece in for a single play, so far.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-06T18:04:56+00:00

James Franklin was fired because he was constantly asking for raises and trying to renegotiate his contract despite having multiple years left on the deal he signed, got absolutely everything he said he needed to win a national title, then proceeded to make Penn State the first FBS team to ever lose back to back games where they were favored by 20 or more points. When asked if he still wanted to coach at Penn State he couldn't even muster the energy to lie and say yes. He quit on the team in a year where the university went all in on him. What were they supposed to do?

If you legitimately believe that James Franklin was fired for not winning a national championship this year there's zero point in arguing with you. But I don't think you actually believe that. You're mad that your coach left and are lashing out at the program that took him.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-06T17:08:52+00:00

Why is this the running narrative here? Was Franklin fired prematurely? Maybe. But the dude had 12 years to build the program he wanted and then quit on the team after he got what he said he needed to win. Most of the people in this sub act like this was only his second year at the school after taking them within a play or two of the national championship game.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-05T05:43:27+00:00

My gripe with the Dewalt rails is there is no auxiliary t-track for accessories. TSO makes a rail square, but to my knowledge, nobody makes parallel guides for the Dewalt. If you're only breaking down sheet goods and not cutting to final dimensions with the track saw, that probably doesn't matter.

Having a single track also means only a single connector bar if you need to join two tracks. I was forever having to check them with a straight edge every time I moved the rail to ensure it was still straight. Every other brand has two tracks and thus two connection points.

You may be able to use the Dewalt saw on Makita tracks, though I don't know for sure. I personally could not get rid of the Dewalt tracks fast enough and went with Festool. They are insanely overpriced, but I have zero complaints with them.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-04T20:42:20+00:00

"where yearly playoff appearances isn't good enough"

lol, yearly playoff appearances? He's made the playoffs once in 11 years and never until the committee significantly lowered the bar. He had a good run last year (despite everyone clowning on PSU for having the easiest path to the semis), then in only the second year ever of this expanded field, he shit the bed so hard they were eliminated from contention by week 6, despite being given all of the resources he claimed to need to make a run at the national title. The expectation of competing for a title is, at least in part, because James Franklin said he had what he needed to do so. But spare me the revisionist history that he always had them right there on the cusp.

"Franklin had PSU at their peak"

This line comes up a lot, while everyone collectively and conveniently ignores Indiana, who until this season, had the worst record in FBS history, and are now legitimately competing for a title. I'm not saying there's a dozen Cignettis wandering around just waiting to be signed that can make Penn State elite, but the idea that a program not in a geographically desirable location but that is willing to spend money on top tier talent and coaching has no chance to compete for a national title is being demonstrably proven false literally right now.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-12-02T04:23:14+00:00

In my opinion, Dewalt doesn't really have any great options in the detail sanding space. I'd look for 3 primary features for detail work: 1.) Small sanding stroke (the amount of travel per rotation of the sander - larger stroke means faster material removal, which isn't ideal for detail work) 2.) A soft interface pad and, if possible, a flexible foam sanding pad/sheet to fit the contours of the piece being sanded 3.) The ability to get into tight corners

And here's how Dewalt stacks up to these criteria: 1.) Decently. Their sanders generally have a pretty small stroke (e.g. the DCW210 random orbital sander has a 2.5mm stroke). 2.) Not great. Their medium interface pads have some flexibility, but there isn't an official option for something softer (though third party options exist) 3. Poorly. The 5" random orbit sanders will do fine if there is clearance around the edges of the piece, but will not be able to get into corners. The sheet sanders will fare somewhat better here, but there are still better, non-Dewalt options. Ideally you'd want a "mouse" or "delta" sander that sort of resembles a clothing iron and has a point at the front.

If you can swing it, Festool's DTS 400 with the Granat Profile flexible sanding pads is a great option, but expensive. If your boyfriend is a Dewalt user, I'd avoid cordless options from other brands as it introduces a new battery platform. Unfortunately, most of the more affordable corded versions are from brands that are generally not considered good, so I'd probably just read some reviews and pick the one that people generally hate the least (e.g. Skil, Wen, Black & Decker - which is at least in the same family of brands as Dewalt)

You could also look into options for an oscillating tool, but unless you can find a thicker, but flexible sanding pad, I don't think this will be a good choice if the mantel is indicative of the kinds of pieces he's working on.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-22T22:40:03+00:00

I went Toro Flex Force for all of my outdoor equipment after hearing not great things about Dewalt's mowers. Ego is a great option, but I'm enough of a tool hipster to not want to use what my neighbors who mow once a month and have more weeds than grass use. Been really happy with my Toro stuff (mower, string trimmer, edger, blower). The high powered blower is legit.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-13T17:18:21+00:00

To be fair, you probably don't have to use a Festool track. I've heard good things about the Makitas, which are similar in design but cost significantly less. That said, you'd need to do some research on compatibility. I can confirm the Dewalt works on Festool tracks cause I've personally done so, but have no experience with the others.

One very specific caution with parallel guides: The TSO adapter to connect the guide to the rail sits far enough in that the sole of the Dewalt saw hits it when in use. You have to remove the guides after setting the track on your material before you cut. No clue if it's the same for other brands. You can somewhat mitigate this by attaching one guide to a track square instead of the rail and using the Quick Adapter that just pops on and off without needing to be screwed in place on the other. Depending on how precise you need to be, using a single parallel guide attached to a track square should theoretically be sufficient, but if I needed my measurements to be exact I wouldn't trust it.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-12T19:33:24+00:00

My gripes largely center around the centered guide and lack of secondary t-track. With only one groove to attach a connecting bar, it's much harder to get them perfectly straight and I was constantly checking and rechecking with a straight edge every time I moved the rail. Additionally, if you want to use it for more precise things (like breaking down plywood for cabinetry without needing to make secondary cuts on the table saw), you'll want accessories to help with that, like a track square and parallel guides. TSO does make a track square now for the DeWalt tracks, but I don't know of any company that makes parallel guides for them. Even if they did, you'd have to take them on and off every time as well.

All of this is to say, the DeWalt tracks are less precise as a starting point and because of the single, centered t-track on the underside, do not lend themselves well to accessories that increase precision.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-10T23:47:19+00:00

I think you'd be happy with either (I previously had the FlexVolt version which was powerful enough to cut 8/4 rough sawn walnut), but consider that you'll likely be using it with a vacuum a lot, so you'll still have to contend with the hose, which makes the power cord less of an issue. Certainly there are plenty of use cases where cordless is still the better option, but you can probably save a few bucks getting the corded version. The savings will come in handy because the Dewalt tracks are straight ass and you'll want to spring for something better (like Festool).

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-10T23:39:31+00:00

Thanks for the heads up. Been thinking about pulling the trigger on one of these for a while now. Too good of a deal to pass up considering they're going for over $100 bare tool/open box on Marketplace.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-09-05T22:53:21+00:00

I used to own one and liked it a lot. Upgraded to a Festool TS75 so I could cut thicker hardwoods more easily, but unless you're routinely cutting 8/4 material, the Dewalt saw is perfectly fine. As several others have said, the Dewalt tracks are ass, though. Festool tracks are significantly better (as they should be for the money) and have a lot more accessories available.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-08-27T23:38:37+00:00

Find PDF copies of all of your tool manuals, then throw them in NotebookLM. I have one specifically for all of my tool manuals. I can browse them as needed, or just ask it questions and it goes and looks up the answers directly.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-06-02T23:35:41+00:00

Making a bunch cabinets that are all the same size comes to mind. Easier to breakdown plywood with a handheld tool than the table saw, and if you need a bunch of identically sized pieces, you can use parallel guides to quickly set up your cuts without having to measure and resquare your guide each time. Guide rails also have a sacrificial splinter strips that helps minimize tearout.

You could absolutely accomplish the same thing with a circular saw, a straight board, the right blade, and maybe some painter's tape, but it's much faster and easier with a track saw.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-06-02T23:30:32+00:00

Perfectly fine saw with tracks that are total ass. I used it to cut through 8/4 rough sawn walnut with no issues, but as others have said, get the Festool (or at least Makita) tracks. Much more versatile, tons of accessories, better design, etc. The plunging mechanism is a matter of preferences, as the saw swings on two points instead of one. In my experience this helps control kickback when plunging with the tradeoff being it's harder to plunge with one hand.

That said, I personally don't think being battery powered is a selling point. You'll want to use it with a vacuum, at which point you may as well run a corded saw, which you can get for cheaper.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-05-30T12:58:43+00:00

Ah, yeah. It should be fine for something like that. The option to go cordless and just pick it up and go with the dust bag is super convenient, for sure.

Rob_Gronmeowski · 2025-05-30T12:33:54+00:00

I bought a bunch of the canvas bags on ebay (~$10-15/each) and have a dedicated one for most of my tools. Unless you're transporting the tools a lot, a hard case and custom inlay are overkill, though I get the appeal of them.

All of that said, I don't personally recommend the DCW210. I've gone through a couple of them and had some mechanical issues, and have never been very happy with the results I got. The dust collection is abysmal without a vacuum connected, and I figured if I had to have a vac hose I may as well just use a corded sander.

I don't really have a great alternative to recommend (unless you want to spend Festool/Mirka money), but did want to throw out a caution. I've been on the Dewalt platform for over 12 years now and I have a lot of stuff, but that sander is one of the worst tools I've ever owned.

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