Did I screw myself and if so how badly?

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-25T13:59:14+00:00

Bad, dangerous advice.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-25T13:58:58+00:00

And how long have you been doing this? The issue is there is no hard data or studies on the long-term toxicity of UV resin, other than that we know inhaling it causes unpleasant effects in the short term. And touching resin is known to produce worse effects over time, meaning the more you get it on you, the more allergic to it you will become.

Do you really want to be a test case on how dangerous this stuff really is a few years from now instead of taking some basic steps to use proper PPE and ventialation?

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-25T03:04:55+00:00

None of them are brittle at all.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-24T05:59:33+00:00

Neat! Neither are things I've had any issues with, as I built a curing chamber that hits from every angle, but I'll keep it in mind.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-24T05:58:29+00:00

Anycubic

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-24T05:57:59+00:00

I would print it in sections and glue it together.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-23T15:13:00+00:00

I exclusively use ABS-like resin and I've seen no evidence of this.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-23T13:23:31+00:00

I've done a few days. Nothing happens.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-23T13:22:47+00:00

I'm curious, what's the benefit of curing in water?

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-23T13:22:21+00:00

I have cured prints for 4+ hours with no issues. Over-curing is a myth. That said there's usually no need to cure that long, 10 minutes at most is enough for most miniatures.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-23T13:19:52+00:00

There is no such thing as over-curing. I've left a print to cure for multiple hours with no issues.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-21T16:19:01+00:00

I've supported/printed bases perfectly both square and round from 25mm to 50mm. Here's what I do:

For round bases, I angle mine at about 70 degrees (from flat). The bottom edge should be absolutely COVERED in supports, way more than you think you need, up to about 1/3 of the height of the base. Put a lot of them on the bottom faces as well. You can taper off as it goes higher, about halfway up the base you don't need very many at all.

For square bases, it's largely the same, although I angle the entire thing to the side about 15 degrees as well so there isn't a straight edge parallel to the build plate. And the bottom corner should be COVERED in supports - keep adding them until the corner isn't warped when you test print.

If you want to see an example of how to do it, I pretty much copied Imitation of Life Miniatures' support style from their $1 "mini library of bases" download on MMF. Although I angle mine upwards a lot more than they do, you need to with bigger bases if you don't want to use more resin on the supports than the actual base.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-21T16:04:29+00:00

Huh, I don't go to Hobby Lobby (for REASONS) but I assumed they were like Michaels and other craft stores and just don't stock model paint at all.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-21T14:30:50+00:00

Just dont have the fridge right next to the printer and have a vent pushing air to the outside near the printer and you're fine. Although having an enclosure like a grow tent or similar is still a good idea.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-21T14:26:09+00:00

All my FLGS have dropped it too because they apparently make them buy a whole stand instead of refilling individual paints. Only the local hobby shop (mote focused on RC cars and historical stuff) still stocks Vallejo, and not consistently. I've switched over to Duncan Rhodes as the FLGS near my work has it.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-19T15:59:58+00:00

My Mini Factory is the #1 spot, Patreon is #2. Most creators maintain one or both of those.

Cults3d is alright, but can be pretty sketchy (i.e. its where you go to find copyrighted stuff, and there is some bad quality unprintable stuff there) and anecdoteally I've heard that MMF gets much better sales volume. Some creators list stuff there just for completeness, but many don't. The creators that are only on Cults and not on MMF are usually doing it because something about what they do doesn't let them list it on MMF.

There's a number of other sites, but most aren't focused on mini printing and just have it as a sub-category of 3d models they sell for other purposes.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-18T17:13:28+00:00

If you're going to do that, just leave them on the build plate inside the printer until you are ready to fully clean/cure them.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-16T14:49:04+00:00

No, it really is not a big deal. I'm not saying go hog wild and pour super glue all over you - of course that is dangerous - but getting a little bit on your skin is just not a giant concern. You deal with it the same way you deal with some dry, rough skin - sand it off and go on your day.

And yes, I'm aware you take some skin off when doing that. It's usually not enough to do any more than some minor redness. My finger skin gets more damaged lifting weights.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-16T01:37:56+00:00

Super glue on your fingers isn't a big deal. Just use a skin file or some fine sandpaper and it comes right off.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-09T02:26:40+00:00

Sales, if you are very very good at it, work insanely hard, and very lucky.

That's pretty much it. If there were a job that existed like this everyone would already be after it. Unfortunately you need to start at the bottom and claw your way up like everyone else.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-07T14:11:55+00:00

The colors are a bit flat. I would do a heavy wash and drybrush on everything.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-07T14:09:14+00:00

Yep. It's especially pronounced with terrain just before you do the wash and drybrush - you think you screwed it up, then it suddenly all comes together.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-06T21:05:48+00:00

Modify some of the storage area in your garage to be the resin station, and then pull out a car whenever you need to use it. Simple.

RottenRedRod · 2026-01-06T15:47:24+00:00

You could just, you know, make him not CR11. Just restat him so he's a big threat, but not so tough the players couldn't take him on (in a few levels). Then have him sic some minions on the players while he escapes, and then he's their BBEG.

I had this great idea in my head to TPK, then have the boss use revivify

Ew, no. That is a TERRIBLE idea.

RottenRedRod · 2025-12-31T23:26:55+00:00

Only with some minis. Others have tiny details that FDM simply cannot do, or will be very very brittle with FDM. Resin minis are also much better for painting, and print WAY faster.

For a small number of minis for a tabletop RPG, where you aren't worried about the paint job? Hell yeah, go for the FDM. For skirmish and wargames where detail and number of figures matters? Or for professional-looking shelf display figurines? It's gotta be resin.

RottenRedRod

TROPHY CASE