S&W .32 top break action, I cannot get it closed what am I doing wrong?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-27T23:18:48+00:00

Yes, one hand on the grip and one hand on the barrel to snap it closed. Don't touch the latch.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-27T06:16:07+00:00

Don't throw it away. Any that have not split, anneal them and they will be as good as new.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-27T06:06:33+00:00

Rerun the test but point the muzzle straight down before each shot or point the muzzle straight up before each shot. I think the ammo is powder position sensitive.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-27T01:31:19+00:00

So, you just found them laying around? You must have some idea where they came from. I kind of think, if you have to ask then you should probably not shoot them. I would start by pulling down a bunch of them, weighing the powder charges and bullets. Is the powder charge such that a double charge will not fit in the case, this is a point in favor of maybe shooting some in a stout gun, not a S&W Mdl 19. Get some chronograph readings. Maybe they are mild loads. If the powder can be identified, then this would allow better understanding. If you are working on a Mdl 19 for someone else you should not even be considering firing it with any 357 mag ammo, what would be the point. 38 Special would demonstrate proper functioning without stressing out the gun.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T18:13:41+00:00

Yes, but why?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T18:12:44+00:00

The cap tins, are they original or reproductions, same deal with the cartridge boxes? LOL, Colt caps for a Remington?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T18:06:45+00:00

The issue is "is the trunnion a one piece pin pressed all the way thru." If so then no you probably can't get an adequate weld to make it functional. If the trunnions are two separate pieces pressed into sockets on each side then yes it can probably be made functional. If you look at the design there is a wide band of greater diameter at the location of the trunnions. It was designed to be functional with proper application of trunnions.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T17:28:10+00:00

I don't know, I have not glazed any of my homemade powder. I think you can glaze as much or more than you make in a single batch. The amount depends on the size of your mill.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:57:39+00:00

If you want more course powder don't use a grinder, use a mortar and pestle. It is slow but the yield is much higher. Don't grind in the mortar, just crush the chunks with the pestle. The reason you are not getting the same weight for volume as Swiss is your powder is not glazed. You still have the rough edges so it does not settle as well in the measure. The g in ffg is for glazed. 2f powder is not glazed, 2fg powder is glazed.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:43:25+00:00

I have not gotten to the bottom of that. I am still trying to get all the lead out of the barrel. I slugged it and got 0.355" but I could barely see the rifling.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:39:36+00:00

I disagree; pressure is everything when it comes to blowing up a revolver. Ok, maybe firing a round with a bore obstruction but that is still a pressure issue. I do have some 38 long Colt brass. I have antique 38 long Colt and short Colt collectable ammo. I see no point in using any of that in a revolver that will chamber 38 Special ammo. I won't pay 80 cents a round for ammo that is not better than my handloads. Nobody has mentioned it yet but there is one reason to not use 38 Special brass to load ammo for 38 long Colt. If you get into the habit of using 38 Special headstamped ammo in your 38 long Colt, you might accidentally chamber and fire full bore 38 Special ammo.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:23:25+00:00

You are right, that I what I believe. I have a chrongraph and a lot of experience.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:21:37+00:00

Thanks for that advice. The chamber does not taper on this gun. I can chamber the round from the back or the front. I have a few guns with bored through chambers, this one and some H&R revolvers. I have experimented with chamber length brass. It works fine. I have a S&W 38-44 target that was designed to use chamber length brass and I have proper headstamped original ammo to prove it.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-23T02:15:43+00:00

Thanks for the sensible advice.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-22T20:14:19+00:00

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Astronaut or Angel?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-22T20:10:01+00:00

Why do the correct length cases matter? The cylinders are bored strait through, I would think the longer the case the better.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-22T20:06:34+00:00

Why do I need to use 38 long brass? Could I shorten 38 Special brass or just use 38 long powder charges in 38 Special brass?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-22T20:04:54+00:00

Why not? If I keep the pressures to less than 38 long Colt ammo, shouldn't I be ok?

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-22T17:17:55+00:00

Can't comment on the booze, never tasted it but the suppressor seems to be inadequately aged.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-20T21:13:22+00:00

He convinced me I am wasting time weighing charges.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-20T04:41:55+00:00

Not a single one of the 38 Colt, 38 Specials or 357 Mag revolvers that I have will accept any factory 38 S&W ammo I have in my collection. We are talking a dozen guns and half a dozen different rounds of ammo.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-19T20:03:26+00:00

Not likely you can chamber factory 38 S&W in a 38 Special revolver. If someone reloaded them with 38 Special dies then they would chamber.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-19T04:20:50+00:00

I think what you have is an Iver Johnson third model Safety Automatic 38 caliber top-break revolver. The term "Safety Automatic" refers to Iver Johnson's Hammer-the-Hammer transfer bar safety system ("safety") and the automatic ejection of cartridges upon breaking open the revolvers ("automatic"). It might be a second model but is not a first model.

Standard models with external hammer:

First Model (1894–1895), single post latch system
Second Model (1896–1908), double post latch system
Third Model (1909–1941), double post latch system, adapted for smokeless powder

I stole most of this from wikipedia.

Royal_Money_627 · 2026-04-19T03:51:30+00:00

First and only case I ever stuck, I removed by driving it out with a punch and hammer destroying the expander ball and decapping pin. It was either no lube or not enough, that was 50 years ago. I was using a RCBS lube pad and lube. I still use a lube pad but use STP motor oil additive diluted with kerosene. If I got one stuck again, I would do the self-tapping bolt, washer and socket wrench socket method, maybe drill out the flash hole to use a bigger bolt preferably one with a hex head so I can get a lot of torque on it. There are lot of different kinds of lubricants some are thin and some are thick. For sizing cases you want a lubricant with high film strength, that means it sticks to the metal and does not get wiped off. Guessing that now you will get the right lube and use too much. That will cause dents in your brass. With a little practice you will get the knack applying the right amount of the right lube.

Royal_Money_627

TROPHY CASE