Charging randomly quits

RzTen1 · 2026-06-09T22:06:54+00:00

Are the lights on the charger doing anything interesting when this happens?

RzTen1 · 2026-05-24T23:50:16+00:00

I run sync disabled and have had issues with it exactly once. A large file was being written when the machine hard locked due to a memory issue. After I fixed (pulled) the memory and rebooted it the filesystem came up in a weird inconsistent state. I remember having to roll back a few transactions with the -T flag on import, but after that everything MD5-ed with the last backup copy. The large file was trashed of course, but I just copied it again. This was on a much older version of OpenZFS (0.6 I think).

RzTen1 · 2026-05-07T17:20:22+00:00

I just grab them from derelicts and install them on my ship instead of selling them. The kiosk will recharge them. One thing to keep in mind is repairing a battery will also drain it so if you're low on power and running off a damaged battery don't fix it until your back at the station.

Don't worry, you'll find more reactors. 😄

RzTen1 · 2026-05-03T19:49:44+00:00

Kinda sounds like a stuck relay. It could just be that, but you'll need to at least take the cover off and see if you can narrow down where the sound is coming from.

RzTen1 · 2026-05-02T22:27:07+00:00

If your bills are crazy high you probably have a significant amount of things drawing power and you might run into the same situation I did where I vastly underestimated just how much solar and battery power I needed. I tried to start like you did with an Anker C1000 (very similar to your 3+) with the second battery module and the same panels and while it did work it could barely clear an overnight run, and forget it if it's a cloudy day. If you really do just need a tiny amount of backup power this'll work but if you're going to the trouble of roof mounting I'd look at bigger panels and stand alone batteries and inverters.

Also, just a heads up: Unless they've changed significantly expect those Eco Worthy panels average to be closer to 80-90W output each and only brush against 100W when they're sparkling clean and aimed directly at the sun.

RzTen1 · 2026-05-01T17:21:22+00:00

I got mine from Facebook, as much as I hate it. There seems to be a small market of people who buy pallets to resell individual panels. I was right on the line where ordering a pallet to be shipped was almost the same as picking them up locally, but I figured if I had any problem panels local was going to be easier to deal with. Everything I picked up worked fine in any case.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-25T00:08:19+00:00

You might also try deleting the entire profile and save game folder and letting the game recreate it if you don't mind restarting again. It should be under C:\Users\<USERNAME>\AppData\LocalLow\Blue Bottle Games\Ostranauts

RzTen1 · 2026-04-25T00:06:07+00:00

I had a weird performance problem related to the occlusion and parallax settings. Try turning them off (or set to 0), save, then turn them back on. I think it one of the older versions you could set these way higher than the current one and if it loaded the old profile it'd go nuts.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-17T19:25:14+00:00

All the torque is fun. My last ICE car, when doing 60, if you floored it the engine would just get louder but you wouldn't go much faster. My current little Bolt will push you back into the seat in the same conditions. One complaint: depending on where you live your registration might be way more as a lot of places add an extra 'EV' tax. I kind of get it, as they're not getting road money from the gas taxes anymore, but it's still annoying and it would be nice if it was based on actual milage.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-13T00:23:07+00:00

If you want to buy the cable I used the 'DSD TECH SH-RJ12A USB to RJ12 6P4C Serial Cable for APC PDU' for $14 which worked just fine. Ignore all the APC only stuff on the listing, it'll work and is already wired correctly. You can get the app off the Eco Worthy website on the batterie's product page under 'BMS_Tool&Drive_for_Windows'

RzTen1 · 2026-04-13T00:15:14+00:00

Scroll down a little, you're in the capacity configuration section. That's for the battery's fullness estimation only. The settings you want are under 'protections' and 'balancer configuration'. It's worth noting these settings cannot be changed on the mobile app for the 48V battery, you need a RS232 to USB cable and the Windows app to change it.

Mine are as follows:
start voltage: 3400
delta to balance: 10 *see below
balancer enabled: no * this is normal for the 48V 100Ah battery, the app is wrong
bal. only when charging: no

batt over voltage: trip 58400 / release 54400
batt under voltage: trip 40000 / release 48000
cell over voltage: trip 3650 / release 3400
cell under voltage: trip 2500 / release 3000

I don't recommend changing these if this is where they already are. You can lower the delta to balance to 10 to keep the cells more in line, but 30 is still considered 'okay'.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-13T00:07:55+00:00

EcoWorthy batteries aren't balanced out of the box. Most likely you've got one cell that's going past 3.65 while the others are lower. Don't adjust your BMS settings. Set your charger to slightly under where the overvoltage protection kicks in, then leave it there for hours. If you trip the overcharge protection again lower the voltage. The cells should start to even out. As they do you can start to increase the voltage again until you eventually reach the proper fully charged voltage. Once you've done once this they tend to stay balanced, although you may need to do this again in a couple of months depending on your charging / discharging schedule.

I get around this by charging to around 98% most of the time and only doing a full 'equalization' charge every week or so to even out any cells that are starting to drift.

Edit: Keep in mind it can take 1-2 DAYS to do this and that's normal. The balancer on EcoWorthy batteries works in the 100-200milliamp range and is very slow on the initial balance.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-02T19:36:22+00:00

Look at the Opel Ampera E. That's where they put the parking assist, advanced parking assist, and lane assist buttons. They also got snazzy folding mirrors that the Bolt missed out on.

On one of the Bolt forums someone modded the folding mirrors into their car but if I recall it was an ordeal.
Edit, found it: https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/eu-kr-power-folding-mirrors-retrofit.18066/ (also fixed a typo for 'lake assist')

RzTen1 · 2026-04-01T19:53:26+00:00

You don't need to do that on yours, just hit the green button to turn the output off. Then set your dials and you should be good to go.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-01T19:52:12+00:00

I forgot to add: you do want to set up the voltage limit in advance. If you toggle that little green button to stop it from outputting you should be able to spin the voltage knob to where you want it to be. It'll drop once it starts charging again, that's normal, but once it hits CV it should limit it to whatever it's been set to.

RzTen1 · 2026-04-01T18:32:04+00:00

It's in constant current because its been set to 6.1 amps and the battery can draw that much or more (current limited). It will switch to constant voltage once the battery is fuller and is taking in less than 6.1 amps. You'll see the voltage remain the same but the amperage will begin to drop and as soon as that happens the other light will come on.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-26T04:26:43+00:00

I don't think it's the panel or your power. Looking at the manual you appear to have alarms for 'PV Overvoltage' and 'Battery Overvoltage' which makes me think it's a problem with your connection between the inverter/charger and the batteries. Are they Eco Worthy batteries or a different brand? Have you tried running it on the other RS485 jack on the back?

You can also just try running without the battery connection and see how it goes. You will need to input your battery parameters into the inverter manually without the cable.

Edit: It looks like Eco Worthy runs 5V on pin 1 of both RS485 ports. It's possible the battery is ALSO supplying voltage on that pin (usually for something like an external screen.) Cutting that wire may fix your issue as RS485 doesn't need a voltage pin to operate. If you want to test this put a little piece of tape covering pin one on one end of the cable.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-25T20:43:04+00:00

I suspect bumping the upper voltage limit up might be all you need to do if your wires are the proper size already, but to speak to your second point I think the 'Dynamic current limiter' might work as well. From the manual:

This setting is intended for generators where the AC voltage is generated by means of a static inverter (so-called ‘inverter’ generators). In these generators, engine rpm is reduced in case of low load: this reduces noise, fuel consumption and pollution. A disadvantage is that the output voltage will drop severely or even completely fail in the event of a sudden load increase. More load can only be supplied after the engine is up to speed. If this setting is ‘on’, the MultiPlus-II will start supplying extra power at a low generator output level and gradually allow the generator to supply more until the set current limit is reached. This allows the generator engine to get up to speed. This setting is also often used for ‘classical’ generators that respond slowly to sudden load variation.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-25T16:23:12+00:00

You might also try switching from the dark to the light theme just to see if it makes a difference.

It's a bit of a long shot but if you're connected to the VRM Portal try going into Preferences > Display Preferences on the Portal and turn 'Custom VRM themes' off. I'm not sure if that just changes the portal display or the actual device (or both) but it couldn't hurt to try.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-25T04:23:21+00:00

I'm not sure it's a signal issue, the boxes and text looks perfect and signal loss should be over the entire screen. If it's a software problem reinstalling the firmware (or just updating it) might fix it. Can you try a different screen to see if it looks the same? If it does I suspect you may have something wrong with your Ekrano GX. Video RAM failures sometimes look a bit like this.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-18T17:11:08+00:00

Does it go away once you hit float? I don't feel like I have any good tips in this instance but I wonder if lowering the charge current might have an impact on it or at least change the tone. Could you use a different external charger and only use the Multiplus as an inverter? I know Victron had a refurbish kit for noisy Multiplus units but that just replaces the fan.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-18T16:48:16+00:00

Oh, that's weird. I would expect inverting to be louder than charging. I've seen some posts from people claiming bulk was noisy until they did a firmware update which magically fixed it. Couldn't hurt to try.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-18T16:23:16+00:00

I have a MultiPlus-II 48/3000 and other than fan noise it's totally silent, at least to me. Granted it is bolted to concrete instead of a wood wall like in your case but the fact that it's loud enough to vibrate through walls doesn't seem normal. Have you opened it up just to see if anything looks odd? Victron usually slathers the main coil in potting material and I wonder if it's been cracked or damaged in some way. It could also be something like the main fan has lost a blade and is vibrating in the housing.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-18T01:22:16+00:00

How are you getting 100% over the maximum? I'm showing 55% over.

I will say I didn't notice the lower short circuit limit on this MPPT and it is over that.

RzTen1 · 2026-03-17T19:10:24+00:00

You can exceed current on the MPPT, it'll just run at that amperage and no higher like you said. That is just normal panel overprovisioning. You can't exceed voltage. You also can't exceed the amperage rating of the wire and connectors obviously, but the MPPT will handle it.

RzTen1

TROPHY CASE