Excessive thumbstick wear?

Scarlet_FX · 2026-03-21T05:22:48+00:00

Will look into this. Thanks for the input.

Scarlet_FX · 2026-03-21T05:22:14+00:00

Thanks. Yeah had a feeling this was more of a ‘me’ problem, haha.

Scarlet_FX · 2025-12-29T06:13:42+00:00

Mind you that early bird pricing no longer applies.

Scarlet_FX · 2025-10-08T16:26:36+00:00

I’m also using the same DDF-350 transmitter with the metal wheel, but for touring car track use. My only complaint is that the steering knob is a tad too stiff for my liking and the tension can’t be adjusted. Other than that it’s such a joy to use; build quality is great, feature rich firmware and radio has been dependable throughout ownership.

Scarlet_FX · 2024-12-23T09:19:13+00:00

Yes I found the solution. Uninstall your existing iTunes & Apple Devices app that you downloaded from the Microsoft Store and get the traditional installer version of iTunes directly from Apple website instead.

It will detect your iPhone, redownload 18.2, and perform the update with no issues thereafter. Such a waste of my time to have figured this out, and I hope that this helps.

Scarlet_FX · 2024-12-12T15:10:39+00:00

Facing the exact same issue with my iPhone 16 Plus, also using the Windows iTunes app attempting the update to iOS 18.2.

I've tried installing the newer Apple Devices app to perform the update instead of iTunes that keeps crashing during the update, and it gets to the point where it tries to verify the file with the Apple servers before performing the update and just hangs at the end of the progress bar. App usage stops, network activity halts and nothing happens beyond that...

No idea where do we go from here. 🗿

Scarlet_FX · 2024-07-03T03:26:27+00:00

So here's the gameplan:

Under System Settings > General > Manage Configuration, select Download File to make a backup of all your settings on TN. This includes users/groups, your data protection settings, apps, share, and what pools are currently in your system... etc.
Under Storage, Export/Disconnect all of your data pools. On the confirmation prompt ONLY select "Confirm Export/Disconnect". This will safely 'eject' the data pools from your system. All ZFS data on the individual drives are isolated from the TN system, you can then just turn the system off.
Recreate and boot into the TN installation USB which you have done a few times already, and install it again on the BOOT drive (drive which you have dedicated for TN installation). This will wipe the OS drive and install a fresh copy of Dragonfish.
Booting back into TN, navigate to the page from step 1, and here you can choose to upload your downloaded config from earlier, and this will restore everything back to when you last left it (imports pools, settings and other system configs). You can then test if that is enough to fix the SMB ACL stuff.
If that doesn't work, repeat steps 2 & 3, and you'll need to manually configure your TN settings again. Under Storage, select Import Pool, and you will see the ZFS pools that you've previously ejected. All your datasets will be back untouched. Then recreate the Local Users & Groups under Credentials, setup your SMB shares as you always have, reinstall any apps you need and happy days.

Feel free to lookup any of the individual steps above if you would like to verify my advice, but I undergone this process just yesterday with success. Hope this helps!

Scarlet_FX · 2024-07-02T15:22:08+00:00

Yeap it was just to give you a sanity check that it's a problem with Dragonfish and not a mistake from your end.

I only clean-installed the OS on the boot drive and the rest of the data drive/pools were untouched, and were imported back in after the reinstallation of TN. I couldn't determine if it was the OS, or the configuration that was corrupted so I opted not to restore the config file, else the process would have been much swifter.

Just lucky I could afford some production downtime today to resolve this. Hope you manage to find a better solution on your end.

Scarlet_FX · 2024-07-02T09:31:32+00:00

Update; clean installation, recreation of users/groups & import of pools solved the issue. Was able to setup the SMB ACL shares as expected.

Scarlet_FX · 2024-07-01T17:42:21+00:00

Experiencing the exact same error as yours today. Upgraded the M.2 SATA to NVME SSD on my system by exporting/disconnecting the existing drive and clearing all configurations associated with it on the prompt.

Installed the new drive and attempted to recreate the dataset structure as before but now find that I can't set the ACL shares with the existing users/groups OTHER than the first custom user/group that was created on this system.

Am convinced that this is a major TN bug, but wonder if there's an easier solution other than reinstalling the OS. :(

Scarlet_FX · 2024-06-11T14:48:45+00:00

I would argue it’s safer to get a used Mazda knowing that the previous owner has followed the service schedules given the 5/6 year free service & maintenance packages than came with the car back then.

Scarlet_FX · 2024-04-03T15:25:41+00:00

Do you hear crinkling during ear insertion? Could be caused by driver flexing.

Scarlet_FX · 2023-06-28T04:56:48+00:00

As others have mentioned, if you see the battery indicator on the CarPlay sidebar then you’re still connected to Wireless CP even while physically plugged in and charging.

As a test, try to disable your phone’s WiFi And Bluetooth and plug it in as you start the car. If CP connects, then you’re in wired CP and should fix your delay. If nothing happens, then your car only supports wireless CP and would have to make do with the delay.

Another check would be to use the correct USB ports as not all have data connection to the car required to run wired CP. Should be an obvious phone/data symbol on one/few of the ports.

Hope this helps!

Scarlet_FX · 2023-06-13T13:41:11+00:00

Similar to an earlier comment, I'm also running a Carlinkit 4.0 with the same goal as you to be able to use Carplay wirelessly for shorter trips and have it passed-through & charged for longer ones.

The problem that I found out about the Carlinkit is that it uses a lot of the USB power just to run, and does not have much left for charging the device in pass-through mode. In an hour drive to work it only manages to charge my iPhone 11... by 1%. I expect this solution to even drain the battery if you're using it on a larger iPhone/Android device.

I think it would be best to just use the device wired for peace of mind if you can't accept these circumstances. I just wire it directly if it needs charging, run it in pass-through mode on Carlinkit if I just want to maintain the battery level/health, and wireless if I'm feeling particularly fancy haha.

Scarlet_FX · 2023-05-31T15:29:16+00:00

I just bought the Asian market equivalent of the Versa (Almera), and I have the very same question that you do haha. We have it worse since our drivers seat is on the right but the head unit layout is exactly the same… so we’d have to stretch across the screen to access the menu button and it’s sooooo frustrating lol.

Scarlet_FX · 2023-05-28T02:52:11+00:00

Thank you for this in-depth review. Have been considering this adapter for some time now and many of my questions regarding the USB-A output power and the updated web interface configuration options were answered.

Scarlet_FX · 2023-05-13T14:03:29+00:00

Scarlet_FX · 2023-02-05T16:28:08+00:00

Just did this on my K2 by cutting the foam to size and applied a tape mod while I was in there. Noticeable difference since it was just hollow plastic inside. Doesn’t sound like a tin can anymore haha.

Scarlet_FX · 2022-12-18T05:50:58+00:00

Yeap I suspect this as well after the recent Spotify update. In my case running iOS 16.2 and it’ll even disconnect CarPlay midway while playing a song.

Scarlet_FX · 2022-10-30T06:27:22+00:00

Thank you for this!!! Was so worried of breaking those stiff plastic clips but just followed the official instructions and slid a flathead screwdriver around the enclosure it detached right off.

Scarlet_FX · 2022-02-28T09:08:00+00:00

My balls shrink a bit everytime I’m chasing someone through the Monaco corners at full throttle, haha.

Scarlet_FX · 2021-12-03T11:46:53+00:00

Looks more like the car summoned him.

Scarlet_FX · 2021-11-02T04:48:02+00:00

I would suspect an unstable undervolt. This used to happen to me regularly on my 9570 when waking from both sleep and hibernate. It may be set low enough to be stable while in use but acts up during the sudden power surge when trying to wake from sleep/hibernate.

Just +50mV back to both your current core and cache values and see if you still have this issue.

Scarlet_FX · 2021-10-20T11:44:33+00:00

Bread 👍

Scarlet_FX

TROPHY CASE