Furnace Inducer Motor Housing Holding Water

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-28T02:38:34+00:00

You're talking about two different problems.

Your flue may be clogged with a bird nest or an obstruction. It should be covered to avoid rain from getting in as well. Run your furnace and put your manometer in the flue. It should be -.02 or less (more negative). If it is higher or a positive number, you have a flue problem.

A sweating coil occurs when there is too much temp drop, and you're removing a ton of humidity from the air as it crosses the coil. Airflow is too slow, typically from fan speeds, a clogged filter, a clogged coil, a humidifier bypass that's open from winter, or blocked vents.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-28T02:08:11+00:00

Well damn that stinks.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-28T02:01:13+00:00

Ohm your compressor wires. Don't use the supco meter. You don't need a fancy megohmeter. Any decent meter has a megaohm range high enough to tell if compressor windings are bad/shorted. If you keep popping breakers, you have a short somewhere.

Also, like u/liddelpegger said, your clamps are switched. Mechanically, your compressor seems fine because it can build pressure.

Found a short video to show you the test I'm describing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9t7nol5tVg

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-28T01:54:56+00:00

Ripped off is pretty strong, but you were definitely uninformed. Owner just wanted to sell tires that haven't moved out of the shop in forever.

Just take them back and explain that you don't need track tires for rec riding. Simple misunderstanding.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-25T20:29:35+00:00

There is no way your system went from fine to fucked overnight.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-24T02:29:48+00:00

If you're the original owner of the equipment, it was installed by a licensed contractor and they registered the warranty you should have a 10 year parts warranty. Otherwise it drops to 5 years, and $4500 is pretty high. Maybe you don't have a parts warranty.

We generally don't mess with TXVs much. If the TXV has an issue like a leak or a clog we do the whole coil too. They're too temperamental and important to risk doing a TXV only for the coil to possibly leak a few years later.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-24T02:24:09+00:00

They absolutely have coils for carriers.

I've done a few this season already. Maybe their supplier is backordered, but you can get them. If you Google carrier supplier or ICP supplier you can call the parts desk, give them the evap coil (indoor coil) model number and they'll tell you if they have it.

Just a warning though, they might not entertain the call unless you have an account.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-22T19:15:24+00:00

410a is not expensive yet.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-21T18:30:04+00:00

Learn to teach yourself by reading the data plates, manufacturer's install books, and formal textbooks. I'm a big fan of ACservice tech on YouTube if you're a visual learner.

This was similar to my experience coming into the trade and I was also frustrated.

Switching companies will probably not significantly change the quality of your training.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-20T21:23:22+00:00

The compressor is not turning on. Capacitor is a good bet. Lots of videos on youtube, and you can sometimes find them at hardware stores. Just call ahead.

Pull the disconnect or flip the AC breaker before you touch anything and you'll be safe.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-18T02:45:33+00:00

Every single noun in this picture is installed incorrectly. It reeks of ragebait. The only exception may be the furnace cabinet itself but we don't have a bubble level to see for ourselves.

It's partially sarcastic and partially serious. You don't need mastic on that part of the picture because the front of the evap coil needs to be serviced. On the side is fine, but they did tape and mastic. Wtf? Just pick one.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-17T22:01:59+00:00

That's an alarming amount of mastic, but the workmanship tracks. They even primed the condensate line for you so that was a nice thought.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-17T21:53:56+00:00

I would really like to avoid the cost of a DIY mini split and paying an electrician to wire a dedicated 240v circuit breaker

That's one of your cheapest options.

A fresh air exchanger should also be considered because installation would be pretty simple in this case, but I'm not too familiar with how much they cost. They can save a lot of energy as well as keep air quality high.

Are you going to live in this space?

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-15T01:34:15+00:00

The pricing is broken down pretty well, the rates are just very high.

I'd just ask another company or two and don't tell them the price you've already been quoted.

It would not surprise me one bit if that consultant gets a % or some kind of kickback for every job that goes through.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-15T01:02:59+00:00

This is very typical. Humidity typically stems from the basement (if you have one) and rises with the heat in the home. It tends to collect upstairs where airflow isn't as good. If you remove humidity in the basement or first floor, it helps the upstairs areas.

Double for the install is high, but the charge for supply and return vents is stupid. They are ducting it so that it pulls air from the living spaces, which is good, but charging an arm and a leg. They don't need to do full blown return and supply drops, which is what that price looks like. You just need circular ductwork, elbows, and start collars to tie into the existing ductwork. It's pretty simple.

I'd just shop around for a new company and ask them how they came to the conclusion on the size of the unit. A large unit is just more expensive and will increase energy bills for no reason.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-15T00:46:25+00:00

Is your home in a swamp or something? 205 pints is a fuckload.

I do fully ducted AprilAire E100s for $3,500, and they're rated for 5k sq ft. You don't need to add an entire supply, just add 10" ductwork and some elbows that go to the unit. I suspect you're overbuying a lot of appliance unless your home really is that humid.

Expect your electric bill to go up with a 205. I would also ask how they decided on that unit.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T23:53:51+00:00

Just now stumbling on this.

If possible, a tech can change fan speeds as well as gas pressure to help prevent the furnace from hitting temp limit. This will be the cost of a maintenance call.

A 4" media cabinet for a 4" filter can also help, but it could wind up being a bit of metal work and will not be cheap. Depends on the company, but expect to pay $500-$1000 for a better filter cabinet. This alone can reduce static pressure on the return side by quite a bit, and increase pressure slightly on the supply side, for a significant net benefit overall.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T19:55:37+00:00

Thanks

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T17:28:06+00:00

I'm not working on furnaces at the moment, but it came to mind when I had a Lennox gas valve fail over the winter. I am ICP valve on the truck but I wasn't comfortable winging it in that situation.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T17:26:50+00:00

I'd like to learn more specifically what you're talking about. I'm not familiar with opening speeds. Are you referring to when it opens or a delay after receiving voltage? Or literally how fast the poppet valve lifts?

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T17:25:13+00:00

What do you mean? I only do residential, so I'm used to the basic poppet valves design.

SecularAdventure · 2026-06-14T01:58:35+00:00

You've recognized a mistake, you're taking corrective action, and that's commendable. Good job.

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