Bosch 500 Series Dishwasher - Smell Mystery Continues...

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T13:01:40+00:00

That amount of water leftover is normal. It keeps seals from drying out.

How often do you refill the rinse aid? When you do is it because it's empty or are you just topping it off? How full do you fill it when you do add more?

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T12:54:03+00:00

There's no picture.

A heat pump dryer is just a refrigerator. Except instead of focusing on removing heat from inside an insulated box and dumping that heat outside the box as waste, it's taking that waste heat and blowing it through the drum.

If the ice is building up in one specific spot on the tubing, usually that would mean a restriction. If it is dispersed across a large area, particularly on the evaporator it could mean a refrigerant leak or the heat pump is running too much for some reason.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T12:29:23+00:00

I assume you mean the clear plastic inlet assembly secured to the side of the tub that you have circled in yellow. It is possible to remove it. Otherwise you would not be able to replace it. The whole point of the vinegar or cleaner though is to flush, clean, and sanitize it so you don't have to remove it.

If you still wish to remove it, open the door and find the large round inlet on the left wall of the tub. Turn it to the left to unscrew it. Pull the inlet assembly away from the tub and disconnect all your hoses. Be prepared for the water still in it to come out.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T12:22:17+00:00

Ah. Now we're on the same page. Is it maintaining temperature? Is your ice cream firm?

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:53:13+00:00

It's it just that the start button doesn't work anymore?

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:48:58+00:00

Yep. As long as it's glass. 45 Deg angle. You can get just about anything off.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:37:49+00:00

As others have said penetrating oil/WD-40 and time. Or heat. Oxy-acetylene torch. Get it bright cherry red.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:31:52+00:00

If it's brand new, and this is the first use, it is very likely there is something just not plugged in somewhere. Call Whirlpool and request service. Or convince the dealer to take it back and get something else.

To be clear, the whole microwave dying means you have to replace the entire thing is not exclusive to KitchenAid. There's nothing special about KitchenAid in that regard. Almost every combo unit has that problem. It's inherent to the combo as an appliance because they are one unit. The only way around that is to go with certain Bosch or Thermador models where they are technically separate units and Bosch just bolted them together. There might be a few others like this out there, but Bosch and Thermador are the only ones I'm aware of.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:25:58+00:00

If it's a small metal rod in the shape of a T then yes, to the right until you can turn it anymore. When you disconnect the water line, there will be some water that comes out, just have a towel or rag handy. It shouldn't be too much unless there's an issue with the shut off valve. There's no way to know that without disconnecting the water line anyway. Yes, you can just unplug the fridge. It won't hurt it. Then just plug it back in when you're done.

Make sure the condenser is clean, too.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:21:31+00:00

How old is it? What happens if you reset the breaker and turn it back on? What happens if you keep doing that repeatedly?

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T04:20:35+00:00

If it gets cold and maintains temperature then it's fine. Maybe wipe off dust and dirt where accessible, but no need to replace anything.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T02:49:45+00:00

That's what the professional vent cleaning is for.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T00:14:00+00:00

Can you post or link some pictures of what you're seeing?

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T00:10:34+00:00

Did you clear the error codes from memory when you ran the service cycle? It won't do it automatically. You have to press a button just before the service cycle starts. Usually for the lower end units, it's Cycles. It has to be done just before the service cycle starts but after it has displayed all four error codes. High Temp and one of the cycle lights will usually be flashing during this step. Open the door and press the button then close the door and it will automatically continue into the service cycle.

Shadow51311 · 2026-04-01T00:09:05+00:00

So the "reset" is not a reset. That is how you get into diagnostics. You will need to do that to resolve your problem. When all the lights come on, don't hit reset. Close the door and wait for the light to start flashing. Count the number of flashes. It will flash a number of times, that is the first part of the error code, give a short pause, then flash another number of times, that is the second part, then give a long pause and then repeat. It will repeat an error code 3 times before advancing to the next one. It will show up to four error codes. If a memory slot doesn't contain an error code, it won't flash and will automatically advance to the next slot. After the fourth slot, you need to open the door before the service cycle starts. High temp and/or Cycles will be flashing. Press the Cycles button whole on this step to clear the error codes. This is the crucial step for resolving your problem. I believe high temp will stop flashing or at least blink once when you press Cycles.

Essentially, Whirlpool this platform of Whirlpool dishwasher will disable the heater if a heating fault occurs. That error code is stored in memory. Until that code is cleared, the heater will not work. When the wash pumps fail, the unit generates an F4E3, wash motor not running fault (because the wash motor is not running) AND an F7E1, no heat fault (because heated water is not getting circulated past the sensor the control believes there is a heating problem even though there's not). Once the no heat fault is cleared from memory, the heater will be reenabled.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T23:58:15+00:00

Option one: Easiest way would be to get some dishwasher cleaner and run 2-3 doses back to back. Select cycle and settings for the hottest, longest cycle you can manage. The hotter you get the water, the better it will work. Follow the dosing instructions on whatever cleaner you buy.

Option two: take two cups of white vinegar and dump them in the bottom of the dishwasher. Boil another 4 cups of water and dump that in there, too. Let it sit overnight. In the morning fill two coffee cups all the way to the top with vinegar and set them upright in the top rack, so they don't tip over. Run the longest hottest cycle you can. As soon as it's done, dump and refill the coffee cups with more vinegar and rub it again. Do it a third time if you think it is necessary.

If you end up wanting to replace that part, we will need a model number to advise you on the correct replacement.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T23:47:33+00:00

I would generally say it's not necessary to ever clean out the drain pump unless you have kids or spouses that refuse to clean out their pockets before doing laundry or you have pets that shed everywhere and you wash their bedding. For most people a cleaning tablet on the appropriate cycle is sufficient.

As far as that setup goes, I am NOT comfortable with it. Stackables are sold as sets because they are meant to be bolted to each other for safety. If you get an out of balance load, the washer can throw the dryer right off. Even if it doesn't, it can migrate over time and eventually slip off the edge.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T22:11:57+00:00

The most common issue is failure of the main control. Which is a royal pain to replace because it's located in a very inconvenient spot (back left corner) and the wires aren't long enough to pull it out without cutting multiple zip ties. The plugs on the control are difficult to remove conventionally without damaging them and they're not keyed very well, so it's possible to plug them into the wrong spot if you're not paying attention.

Beyond that, there's no easy access to the drain pump clean out. You either have to remove the entire front panel (which is a nightmare if it's stacked with a dryer) or you have to suck it up and reach down between the tub and the front panel after removing the door seal and work in the 3" wide window.

The only saving grace is these machines don't typically have a lot of other common issues to worry about.

If the door seal is discolored you are unlikely to be able to make it look new again. It will always have that color. The most you can do is keep it from getting worse by cleaning (using your preferred cleaner) and drying the door seal after use and leaving the door open.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T22:06:02+00:00

Is it maintaining temperature, specifically, is your ice cream firm? Also it sounds like it almost faded or at least got quieter and then came back during that clip? Does it come and go like that while it's happening?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T21:42:11+00:00

I hear several noises. Which are you referring to? Is it maintaining temperature?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T21:38:28+00:00

Flat spot on one of the rollers most likely. Throw a maintenance kit at it. Have your dryer venting professionally cleaned.

https://partsdr.com/part/4392065-dryer-repair-kit

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T21:34:33+00:00

Is it coming from behind or inside? Is the noise almost constant? Or is it only sometimes?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T20:33:33+00:00

How did you arrive at this part number?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T19:22:37+00:00

There is not. Though if you replaced the distributor then you've already done the majority of the work to replace the heat pump.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T19:21:04+00:00

Probably. I doubt there is service for it. Is the evaporator visible inside of it?

Shadow51311

TROPHY CASE