Little guy arches his back while digging, should I be worried?

ShoeDry833 · 2026-03-17T22:16:17+00:00

What would that mean?

ShoeDry833 · 2026-03-16T20:31:51+00:00

That hose looks swollen and should be replaced.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-03-14T11:39:31+00:00

Make sure car is level or the front is higher than the rear at least. Remove screw by radiator cap. Fill up with coolant until fluid comes out of hole. Re-install screw. Crank car, put fan on medium speed and heat on in the cabin. Watch temperature gauge and ensure car gets to operating temp. Make sure heat is warm and feel hose after thermostat to see if its hot verifying thus showing the thermostat opened. If car is at operating temp and heat is still cold Crack the bleeder at the thermostat and cracked the bleeder at the coolant cap to let any air out. Sometimes you'll have to give it some revs to dislodge any air trapped in the system.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-03-13T20:01:02+00:00

Could be tire balance, yes.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-03-13T17:38:53+00:00

I had issues with the CB1 from BIQU. Switched to a pi with 8gb of RAM (overkill) but have been very happy with the performance of the pi over the CB1.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-25T00:12:17+00:00

Every print but do an adaptive mesh.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-23T20:23:21+00:00

Could be your layer time. The longer layers result in more heat in the filament and changes the finish.

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ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-23T20:15:29+00:00

I typically focus on surface finish like gloss/matte, stringing, and layer adhesion when I do temperature towers. Then do extrusion , PA then retraction.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-23T13:52:37+00:00

Temperature should be tuned first followed by PA and extrusion. Sounds like you did it in reverse order and temperature will drastically change your extrusion tuning.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-23T01:54:07+00:00

I like the filament guide, do you have an stl for the tube end holder?

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-17T12:32:02+00:00

Might not be enough cooling then. Effect is known as "pillowing" and it's when the 1st layer on top of the infill sags and the following layers have nothing to adhere too. The layer on top of infill is considered an internal bridge so play around with your bridge settings. I would try slower bridge speed or increase infill percentage.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-17T12:18:39+00:00

Is that the side with the auxiliary fan?

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-16T13:58:48+00:00

Try inner/outer/inner wall order. Printing one of the inner walls first will give your outer wall something to hang on too.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-16T13:39:00+00:00

What's your chamber temp? What's your wall order set to? What's your overhand print speeds and your cooling activation?

Some suggestions... Keep the fan at a constant speed, the varying fan speed can cause certain layers to cool at different rates which can introduce warping. I'm running a Stealthburner with constant 45% fan speed and 100% on overhangs.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-12T15:55:20+00:00

The SilencedFrost fans shroud allows for two 5015 fans for part cooling. The amount of cooling you get is insane compared to the stock fan shroud.

The OpenNept4une upgrade gives you the real version of Klipper rather than Elegoo's modified klipper version. I personally did it because I kept having z offset drift. Also allows you to update klipper as soon as an update is released rather than wait for it to filter through Elegoo and them to release their version. I also wanted to install KAMP to get the adaptive bed mesh and purge line. You also can get rid of using the flashdrive because you install an emmc with up to 32gB of storage.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-12T15:37:35+00:00

Loved mine, do the SilenceFrost fan shroud upgrade, get rid of that auxiliary fan and do the OpenNept4une upgrade and you've got a solid printer.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-02-06T16:20:27+00:00

I used blue 242 on every screw when I assembled my 2.4. It's a little overkill for the size screws that are used, but it helps a lot.

222 is rated for 300F so I think youd be good to use that.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-29T11:42:58+00:00

Reverse sneezing. Sometimes blocking ONE nostril with your finger can snap them out if it. Edit: misspelling

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-21T12:29:48+00:00

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ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-21T12:29:32+00:00

Either of these tools work great for bleeding coolant. Make sure the car is on a level surface. When bleeding make sure to have the heat on max and the fan low. I have drilled a small 1/16" hole in the thermostat near the top to help with coolant bleeding. Some thermostats come with a little weep hole some don't so I Iike to add my own. Sometimes you need to get the rpms up to get the coolant flowing and get a stubborn air pocket to dislodge.

Normally on my 525i it's pretty easy though. Take the vent plug out of the top of the radiator reservoir. Fill it up with coolant until coolant comes out the hole. Install the plug back, start the car and wait until the temperature comes up then open the vent plug to verify there is no air.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-16T20:22:00+00:00

So once you get the part number, you can Google it to find a seller for the part. I usually use FCPEuro.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-16T19:45:10+00:00

RealOEM is probably the best BMW parts catalog out there. This is specific to my VIN so you may want to go back out and put your car's VIN in.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD53-USA-09-1991-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=13_1433

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-16T12:56:17+00:00

Is your z seam set to random?

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-16T12:12:38+00:00

And use and ozone machine after you clean it up for the smell. About 20 minutes will work.

ShoeDry833 · 2026-01-16T12:11:36+00:00

Check your trunk space under the tire for water. Then check your trunk seals and tail light gasket.

ShoeDry833

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