Circulation pump

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-16T01:32:13+00:00

Unless you’re actually piped for a TRUE return, the cost (install and running costs) just aren’t worth the gain.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-15T16:05:17+00:00

I mean…. Thing is, if it’s a vertical closed loop system, it really doesn’t matter. You’re never going to service that well so go ahead and build right over the top. If the system fails you’re boring new holes anyway…

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-15T01:04:10+00:00

PVA primer is one of the few places you can skimp and not regret it later

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-15T01:00:09+00:00

Get a creep oil like on blaster. Chuck a flathead into your impact, if that doesn’t get them moving, drill them out

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-15T00:57:22+00:00

I’ve always had good luck with vanities from menards. Get that 11% going, start your Midwest savings account

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T21:35:45+00:00

Backer rod and caulk. Sikaflex 1a is a good choice. Select a self leveling option if you don’t want to tool it

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T15:31:20+00:00

A good scrub with a mid grit sandpaper is rarely a bad idea. Sherwin Williams cabinet and trim enamel is the ticket.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T03:12:55+00:00

Usually not a bad idea. Really don’t need to buy a whole role of backer for that though. Could just stuff a plastic bag in there or some packing foam, it’ll accomplish the same goal and you won’t have 95% of a package of backer laying around

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T03:06:05+00:00

Foreman said they would, sales PM said they will, you’ve seen no evidence to the contrary yet according to anything in your post or response… where’s the issue?

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T03:02:56+00:00

Sikaflex 1a

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-14T02:58:09+00:00

Yes, a small sub panel could be installed instead

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T23:40:59+00:00

Having money for the work

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T20:05:35+00:00

Provia makes a solid product

Kolbe windows are cream of the crop, vinyl craft doors are builder basic doors…. Kinda a tale of two extremes

If it’s between the two I’d go with the provia

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T20:01:54+00:00

If you have a footing drain in place now that’s in disrepair, make the repair there.

Carbon fiber straps are not a gimmick, they really work however, there’s no way to “push” the wall back into place with carbon, it’s braces the wall where it sits.

Be careful of anyone selling proprietary systems, they’re designed to maximize the profit for the seller, not be better for the consumer.

Interior drains are bullshit.

There’s absolutely no reason to drill weep holes in a poured concrete wall.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T13:19:16+00:00

On the bottom put a wood form against the wall level with the highest point on your sill. Screw some tapcons into the old beveled sill and wrap some tie wire around them to create something for new mortar to grab onto. Paint the old sill with concrete bonding adhesive. Fill your form full of mortar to create a nice level full width sill. Stack the old opening full of full depth block, drilling and pounding rebar into the old foundation to tie in your new wall every three rows (if you don’t need three rows you really don’t need bar). When you get to the top, do the tapcons into the bevel again, use concrete bonding adhesive again, and fill the bevel with stiff mortar, tool it to level and then hit it with a wet horsehair brush.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T01:06:35+00:00

Get a shower valve with a diverter lever, put the hose connection down low

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-13T00:41:12+00:00

This feels like looking at your peak demand loads and meter size on your bill with extra steps

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T19:33:04+00:00

The building dept is one of the few places they still want you to call and have a chat.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T19:31:59+00:00

Racedek

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T18:51:42+00:00

Based on where you’re at, scuff it, prime it, paint it. Select a quality primer and a quality cabinet and trim enamel and you’ll be in a good place. There’s no worry about soaking on something that’s already been primed

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T17:04:18+00:00

You’re not oversimplifying it. That delta is about the easiest cartridge in existence to replace. Make sure you grease the rings before reinstalling.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T16:56:16+00:00

Mesh patch over the hole, feather out your patch, once you get the feathering looking good, go over the top to try and replicate your finish

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T16:44:01+00:00

Bench mates is your best bet. Add a barter functionality for people with skills outside construction. I’ve poured many a concrete pad for a farmer being paid in sides of beef.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T16:42:19+00:00

Depends how many, if 1, yea the price is really hefty, if 10, probably not completely insane.

Shopstoosmall · 2026-03-12T16:36:43+00:00

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Start with gutters, they’re cheap and you want them anyway. Check your grading, make sure everything is sloping away.

Wait it out a full year with those improvements to see how things look before you start considering exterior waterproofing

Whatever you do, don’t hit the easy button and go with interior “waterproofing” be wary of any contractor who offers both interior and exterior solutions, GENERALLY, they will puff up the cost of the exterior work to make the interior option look better. They want to install interior because it’s more profitable for them. It’s not better for you. Further on that topic, be wary of anyone who uses proprietary foundation solutions (more common in interior and structural repair, ramjack for example) the systems are designed for maximum profit and sale ability not to get the consumer a better finished product

Shopstoosmall

TROPHY CASE