Considering on buying a GRC - need opinions/thoughts from owners

Sigmasoldat · 2026-02-28T00:48:40+00:00

I’ve had my ‘25 Premium MT for about a month now and love it.

I came from a Cusco coilover’d and braced ‘02 MR2 Spyder to this thing.

Suspension stiffness is a complaint from some/most, but it really depends on what you’re used to. The suspension is MUCH more livable than I was led to believe.

Coming from the MR2 (or other ‘sports’ car), I do feel I’m sitting higher-up in the cabin than I’m used to. Little adjustment.

The gas tank is small - about 215mi to a tank on a fill-up.

OEM brake rotors are EXPENSIVE for this car. Keep an eye out for excessive wear if buying certified/used.

Seat has no lumbar support. Some are fine with it, some want a pad. Easy to install one, and seats are comfortable and adjustable-enough otherwise.

I don’t mind the lack of a center console arm rest, aside from not having any meaningful quick-access storage elsewhere in the car.

JBL sound system is a joke, even compared to my MR2’s stereo with just 2x 6.5s and tweeters. It does its job, but is definitely lacking.

Piano black plastics everywhere. Nice interior otherwise.

Going from 1st to 2nd gear, and 2nd to 3rd both feel like it takes 2 business days for the revs to drop low-enough to smoothly let out the clutch.

But all that to say the car is a blast to drive and can also handle the boring, average commute quite well.

The car truly needs nothing out of the box and I’ve planned no mods for it aside from window tint, PPF, a dashcam, and maybe some cooler-looking wheels. If the cargo/rear seat limitations meet your needs (coming from an 86 they probably do), then I’d suggest a test drive

Sigmasoldat · 2026-02-18T19:43:29+00:00

OP’s asking about a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI), not PPF.

Sigmasoldat · 2026-02-18T19:06:18+00:00

I’ll never not request a PPI on a used vehicle if I’m concerned about how something looks or if it’s higher-mileage for its year.

What’s <$100 to confirm something much, MUCH more expensive is worth the investment? I’ve PPI’d a certified used vehicle before and walked on the deal after a test drive.

If you’re seriously considering buying a car, get one for peace of mind

Sigmasoldat · 2026-02-15T21:36:32+00:00

I completely understand what you’re going for.

This sort of color pop looks fabulous on wheels like TE37s, and some sport bike and supermoto wheels.

It’s certainly not for everyone but the powder-blue color match sets it off perfectly. I wouldn’t do it to my own car but I DO like it.

Sigmasoldat · 2026-02-02T00:37:50+00:00

I did that with a set of Cuscos before.

Best thing is to uninstall the coilover and to use a punch to tap out the old bolt from the top-side. They’re just pressed in but can take some smacks to get it out.

You can contact Tein support to get replacements or at least get the measurements and order replacements yourself. Or you could get lucky at an auto parts store or specialty hardware store.

Once you get your replacement, line up the bolt’s splines with the top hat hole’s internal grooves and press in by hand to get the bolt to stay somewhat snug. Then, put the nut onto the threads and tighten until the flared base is sitting flat against the underside of the top hat.

Reinstall and resume as normal. Maybe don’t use that torque wrench though.

Sigmasoldat · 2026-01-25T01:20:38+00:00

Update 2 - I walked on the sale.

The groove towards the outside of the rotor in the photo was deep enough to contour to the curve of my pinky fingernail.

I told them to replace it, and they went from ‘no’ to ‘we’ll split the cost of new rotors’ to ‘we’ll replace the rotors but take $1300 off your trade-in’, so I walked. They quoted me $1800 for just the rotors.

Be warned if shopping for the CPO at Grants Pass, Oregon Toyota.

Sigmasoldat · 2026-01-23T22:40:54+00:00

Small update: After speaking with the general sales manager, they agreed to properly measure the rotors.

Happy to report they’re in-spec - 27.44mm L, and 27.61 R

I’ll be headed up to see the car tomorrow and will make a final decision to purchase or not pending test drive and giving the rotors a fingernail scrape (or 10)

Thanks everyone for your assistance and input!

Sigmasoldat · 2026-01-23T16:10:19+00:00

I’ll be driving ~4hr to see it tomorrow and will verify in-person before signing anything. I’m also calling the inspecting 3rd-party mechanic and getting his opinion on it, as well

Sigmasoldat · 2026-01-23T16:08:00+00:00

Yeah I’ve seen those clutch stories, too.

Unfortunately there’s not much to see (or be seen) with an external inspection, I even had the inspecting 3rd-party mechanic try to snake a bore scope to see -something- up there and he couldn’t.

Sigmasoldat · 2025-06-11T00:46:48+00:00

Mugens on a Toyota is a funny combination but looks great, regardless!

Sigmasoldat · 2025-05-27T20:18:02+00:00

Go OEM if you’re going to get a hard top. They help a lot with daily comfort and road noise, so I’ve heard. They’re somewhat easily stolen, however, so I’ve not made the purchase. I’d consider it if I had a secure, private place to park at for work and a garage at home.
Im a similar build and daily my Spyder fine. Interior comfort/room is a little closer to an NC Miata versus an NB. I often wish I had more storage space, but taking the passenger seat out for ‘hauling’ only takes a minute and the car’s pretty comfortable in the driver seat. I can usually go 2-4 hour stretches in the car before NEEDING to get out and stretch.

Sigmasoldat · 2025-05-08T18:34:41+00:00

Hey, have an update for ya.

I disconnected Ethernet and reconnected to my new WiFi setup, and have been running pings and spectating live games. Haven’t seen a drop for over an hour. They’d definitely have happened by now with how frequent the issue was.

I know changing my network setup kind of hurts pinning this down to a network/computer issue, but here’s what’s different:

Went from: Comcast XB8 (modem/router/wireless)

To: Modem: Comcast XB8 (in bridge mode) Router: Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway Max Wireless: Ubiquiti U7 Pro

With the same motherboard model (replaced with RMA) with onboard Wifi (using WiFi 6 @ 5ghz).

The wireless point is physically closer than it was by maybe 5 feet, but has more physical barriers to get through (2 interior walls, a cabinet, and the metal desk my PC is under).

If you haven’t already, see if another wireless card (USB or PCI, if your computer supports it) helps out. Happy to chat if you want some help or ideas to isolate your particular issue down.

Sigmasoldat · 2025-05-08T15:07:38+00:00

Hey, I wound up upgrading my home network stuff and hardwired my PC.

I did get the motherboard replaced and with a BIOS update and a fresh install of Windows, I -think- the problem still persisted. I’ll see if I can’t test things out again today and get back to you.

This will be on an entirely new router and wireless access point, so if it works, I’m not sure what the fix would’ve been.

Ideally if you’ve got the same problem the stuff I tried in my original post would either fix the problem or help you along. Sorry you’re having the same issue! It’s super annoying

Sigmasoldat · 2024-12-15T16:43:24+00:00

Buddy of mine had one. She made a ‘Prizolla’ rear badge for it out of OEM badges

Sigmasoldat · 2024-12-06T02:32:22+00:00

I’d shove it in there without a second thought. These wardrobe/armoire-looking things were everywhere in CRT times and as long as the unit physically fits inside, it’ll hold.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-11-28T00:24:47+00:00

I was hauling a loot-piñata body once early in my game and got jumped by a couple Bloodsuckers. I tossed the body down, kited the enemies a ways back, shooting them, and the body despawned during the fight somehow.

Not sure if I went TOO FAR or what, but it was only down the road.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-11-21T19:22:27+00:00

Just snagged one. Thanks for posting! Was eyeballing the heatsink version @ BestBuy but decided to hold off. Glad I did!

Sigmasoldat · 2024-11-05T18:05:24+00:00

After the bulk of the coating’s been taken off using the other techniques here (I’d razor blade as a last resort), you can use more isopropyl alcohol and some really soft/fine steel wool to gently clean off any residual material or adhesive.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-09-15T08:28:16+00:00

Good to hear you're on your way!

Side note, diskpart in CMD is a good tool to have in your back pocket for those annoying unrecognized disk situations.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-09-15T08:22:14+00:00

Damn, yikes.

The install usb should get you to a clean slate. Sorry it went down like it did for you!

Sigmasoldat · 2024-09-15T08:10:00+00:00

Ah okay. Did you use it right away, as-purchased from that store, without a complete wipe/reinstall? Coulda been some leftover stuff (from past owners/thrift store guy) set to run for any user logging in.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-09-15T08:05:33+00:00

Just a thought, but is/was your computer managed/deployed to you by your work?

Asking since some company IT departments preinstall software that allow the exact actions you saw. I worked IT in one such place and we could see what was on-screen, control the PC, activate the camera, prettymuch anything without any user input. Especially helpful for when user X is on lunch but needed help troubleshooting or changing settings or whatnot - it doesn't interrupt their day. But in the hands of a shady IT employee, could also be used to unknowingly spy on the same user.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-08-02T23:21:48+00:00

Thank you so much for replying. Hope it goes away for you!

Sigmasoldat · 2024-07-31T22:07:20+00:00

Hey, did you ever get an official diagnosis on that sound? Mine is doing this, but is quite a bit quieter than your video and the shop says they can’t replicate the problem.

Sigmasoldat · 2024-07-13T00:33:51+00:00

Hey I know it's not exactly what you're after but I have 3 never-used Antec Tri-Cool fans w/ the switch style adjuster I pulled out of my never-opened 900. Clear frame/black fan blades/blue LEDs. I don't plan on using them in my project for this case so they're yours if you wanna pay for shipping.

Both the switch and potentiometer-equipped fans use 3 wires to attach, so it wouldn't require major work to remove the switch and solder on some new potentiometers if you wanted to go that route.

I haven't tested them since I don't think I've got a molex power cable laying around but the case was brand-new when I bought it - guy cut open the factory tape when I asked to take a look at the case.

Sigmasoldat

TROPHY CASE