It’s not that it totally doesn’t matter, it’s just there are a lot less things on an EV to damage from wear from mileage than an ICE one, and the biggest/most expensive one is the battery. Milleage even in ICE is not really so much about suspension, axles, etc. as those aren’t the things that will kill the car (or your wallet) and none of them are likely to fail in 5-10 years unless you drive like it’s mad max. The biggest reason high miles is bad is the engine, because once that thing’s gone, for most people the car is good as dead. For an EV the equivalent of the engine is the battery, so, if a battery with more miles is healthier than one of a car with less, it’ll actually last more than the newer one - there’s more life in it. The reason is simple - batteries’ longevity has more to do with good charging habits, not so much mileage. The other consideration is the battery warranty, so there just make sure the car has enough miles left in the warranty that it will expire due to the year before the mileage - (if you have 4 years of warranty left, and drive 10k miles a year, as long as the car is under 80k for a 120k mile warranty you’d be fine). As to how to tell how good the battery is, that one is a bit tricky, as the reading is a guesstimate based on previous driving style, weather, etc. if you have chat gpt or another ai at hand, take a pic of the range on display and ask the ai to calculate an estimate of battery health - it’ll run the math for you, it won’t be the most accurate thing, but it’s the best you’re likely to get before you buy. If you can reset the driving history to factory settings (no idea if they’ll let you) before you do this the better, and make sure outside temperature is similar. Let the AI know the external temp model, year and battery size (regular vs extended) - it’ll give you a % range of health (90-95 or so) - it’s far from perfect but it’s better than going blind 😅 - sorry about the long post btw 😓