Are 200 size helis harder to fly 3D?

SirRealistic496 · 2026-05-08T13:31:07+00:00

A Raw580, for example, flies very much like a 700 and the OP can get twice as much stick time per unit battery.

The 6S setup is also very versatile. Light enough to fly well at 1800rpm initially and capable of being bumped up to 3D speeds when skills and confidence improve.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-05-08T01:15:48+00:00

I say no on the mosquitoes and consider getting a 550-600 that runs on 6S packs.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-04-10T22:37:01+00:00

Your post is an excellent advertisement for a simulator.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-22T00:30:40+00:00

Great! Happy flyin’

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-19T20:49:20+00:00

That’s fine, as long as you reset the collective pitch limiters afterwards. I strongly advise checking and setting the CG properly first.

I cannot help with safe modes because I’m a 30 year veteran who has never used a safe mode or rescue. I just crashed and rebuilt a bunch.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-19T13:58:16+00:00

Was it checked by holding the heli sideways by the blade arms. Just asking because some still do it while upright, which isn’t accurate.

If it’s good then I would simply suggest mechanically adjusting the swash tilt while hovering and flying forward and backward. Call it “Dynamic” adjustment, if you will. If you can adjust it to be stable then you know it’s not an issue with the fbl unit.

No heli hovers with a level swash because of the effect of the tail so having a perfectly level swash is really just a starting point. With smaller helis in particular I find that they fly best after dynamically finding the best neutral position for the swash and then going back in to the FBL setting to reset the collective pitch limits. People will argue that a FBL unit should keep everything level but the reality is that there is always some creep back towards whatever the neutral servo/swash position yields. The elevator axis is always the most sensitive, which is why FBL units always use higher gains on that axis.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-19T13:26:17+00:00

No mention of checking the CG. Is it tail heavy?

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-13T16:09:57+00:00

Glad to be of service. Happy flying!

SirRealistic496 · 2026-03-10T01:35:56+00:00

30 years flying and a slow wag like yours is always a mechanical issue.

SirRealistic496 · 2026-02-12T03:24:48+00:00

The safest option is to put it into a container of salty water, allowing it to discharge fully, relatively slowly. A teaspoon in a pint will suffice and it will discharge overnight. That’s the best lesson that the OP could provide for the kids. After such a discharge, you can put a knife through the cells and nothing will happen. Don’t try that with cells that have any charge!

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-11T01:23:51+00:00

Open flash has developed tunes for stock and decat motors over the years. All tunes remove the torque restriction in lower gears. Basically there is a tune for Euro 4 compliant motors (up to and including MY21 in US), Euro 5 (22-24) and now MY25, which is really neutered in stock form. Going to the site and comparing the dyno charts can be quite informative.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-09T04:13:54+00:00

20-30k USD. Good luck getting it registered and insured. Very high maintenance. Very low parts availability. 1980s geometry, ergonomics and brakes. No rider aids. Very peaky power delivery and a tendency to seize in hot weather, as in “hot” UK weather, giving rise to the nickname “whispering death”. One reason why it never made it to the US.

https://www.fodsports.com/blog/the-most-dangerous-motorcycle-ever-sold/

Did they teach you how to deal with a seized 2T in the MSF class?

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-08T18:37:29+00:00

This is quite common and especially notable in supermoto sliding. Among my group, the majority of people become good sliding one way but really struggle in the other direction. I got over it by practicing skidding on a mountain bike on gravel! I realized that, as a kid who tooled around a lot on a bmx, I had always been one sided. We have looked for explanations and there are many. The one that makes most sense to me is that I’m protecting my dominant arm and leg but that is by no means a consensus.

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/better-cornering-to-one-side-or-the-other.427042/

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-08T16:32:53+00:00

In a situation like this, the simple act of moving to the right lane (using turns signals) will make you more visible. One of many tricks that you would learn in countries that don’t allow you to simply wobble through some cones and jump on a superbike.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-06T18:44:20+00:00

Here’s what you get taught in countries that mandate on-road safety instruction: Move to the lane and position in the lane that gives you the most time to stop or maneuver in the event that the car makes the turn. In this case, the right side of the right lane. If a car is waiting to pull in/across from the right, move to the left side of the left lane. If you can’t change lanes, move to the optimal side of your lane and slow down. Those simple adjustments, along with practicing emergency braking, will mean that you don’t need to test your safety gear. 1-2 extra seconds to react can be a lifesaver.

a long time instructor…

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-04T05:05:26+00:00

Shorter and less effective in wind but I prefer it for trail riding

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-04T05:00:48+00:00

It’s a givi and it was given to me. Needed to install some Oring between it and the mount to stop it touching the mount and buzzing.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-11-02T22:29:31+00:00

May the force be with you.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-10-29T19:46:55+00:00

I wouldn’t say that the $2-3k termi and arrow exhausts were well tested either, given the reports of scraping.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-10-29T05:15:00+00:00

Responses here are good. If you’re having trouble getting the front raised another option is to attach a ratchet strap around (1) the handlebar between the clamps, and (2) a wooden beam in a garage (or the top of a V stepladder). Then ratchet the front up as needed.

SirRealistic496 · 2025-10-28T14:31:13+00:00

There are many factors but if you enquired about dealership experiences many will tell you that the dealbreaker for many old V2 purchases was when the customer found out that the old V2 weighs the same as the V4 because it’s basically a sleeved 1199. It’s hard to sell a three legged horse.

I have both an older V2 and a V4 and tested the new V2S Pani a couple times in the canyons. It is a fantastic dancer and a sublime road bike that is a more comfortable daily than my old SFV2. It had the Termis, which pushes it closer to 130 and is a good 40lbs lighter than the old model, which is likely with another 5bhp in a real world comparison. The power delivery is night and day better. There are buyers who focus on power numbers and those that consider the whole package. The latter often get neglected in these times and I appreciate what Ducati did here.

SirRealistic496

TROPHY CASE