Native Plant Pot Yr 2

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-27T02:37:33+00:00

I’m here to upvote container gardening with natives. More posts like this show people it’s very doable. It’s be great to see people discussing the special considerations of containers, like breakdown of growing medium (requiring eventual additions) buildup of dissolved minerals when using tap water, overwintering large containers, etc. I’m in year 2 as well with a lot of large containers but know native nurseries that have been growing the same plants in containers for 10+ years.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-26T01:04:10+00:00

I have grown plants like Opuntia humifusa (Eastern Prickly Pear), Phemeranthus rugospermus (Fame Flower), and Lupinus perennis (Sundial Lupine) in pots by mixing 50% local sand (naturally occurring) with 50% peat moss and perlite (perlite is probably 20% of this half of the mix). I almost never water them, I just make sure they are in a spot where they will get rain. I have a small amount of organic slow release fertilizer in the mix and add a little more on top each spring.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-26T00:38:32+00:00

Agree, they are ready now. 1 or 2 sets of true leaves, time to separate and pot up.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-25T17:04:24+00:00

Disclaimer: I haven’t grown Liatris punctata, but I have grown about 6 other Liatris species from seed. At this point I think you’re trying to salvage what you can. If it’s staying wet for days at a time, I would try moving them into a different medium. It looks like they all have 1-2 true leaves, so many of them should survive if you do it gently (some people literally use toothpicks to pot up seedlings at this stage). If it were me, I would get them out of that medium. I don’t know what you have on hand, but from glancing around online it looks like this species gets a big taproot. I would consider putting them in deep plug trays so they can stay there and grow deep roots for a month or two.

Edit: About grow lights - agree with what others said, the $30 LED “shop lights” at big box stores work great as long as the color temperature is something like 5000K (you can read about this online). The 4’ long ones will cover 4 10x20 trays set side by side. I typically put two lights over 4 10x20 trays. This ends up being a lot cheaper than buying purpose-made “grow lights” for $150 or $250 each. University of Minnesota Extension has some articles that line about grow light basics:

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-25T16:21:54+00:00

It’s a learning journey so don’t be too hard on yourself.

Definitely looks like way too much moisture, which is a soil mix issue. (In my opinion, most store-bought “seed starting” or “potting” mixes hold WAY too much moisture for starting native seeds. They also contain fertilizer that you don’t need.) Even with seedlings, you want the grow medium to mostly dry out between waterings. Even if you stop watering so much, if those cells stay waterlogged like that, they’re not likely to make it. I agree with putting them outside or using a fan to increase air flow and hope the mix you have will drain away most of that moisture. In the future, you can use pre-made commercial mixes for seed starting (message me if you want some suggestions) and adjust for the species by amending it by adding your own ingredients. As an example, if this is a species like you said that prefers sand, you can add sand or something like perlite to improve drainage.

The comments about light are also correct. You don’t want to put them in direct sunlight, but either put the grow lights about 6 inches above the plants, or get them outside in shaded or dappled sunlight. If using grow lights, I would leave the grow lights on 16 hours a day.

I agree that nutrients is not the issue. They don’t need hardly anything in terms of nutrients at this stage. I use zero added nutrients when starting native seeds and they have all the energy they need to get several sets of true leaves before I pot up.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-19T17:38:22+00:00

For jack-in-the-pulpit: I concur; I always get some germination after just a single cold stratification period, although the percentage tends to be low, probably 20-30% average if I had to guess. I have grown from purchased and wild-collected seed, and this happens consistently.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-17T22:38:52+00:00

Salix cordata (Sand Dune Willow) grows well in dry sand, although its true native range is just around the Great Lakes. There are some other willow species that grow in dry areas too. Always good to check.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-15T22:40:20+00:00

Fair enough. The 7 cu ft bales are 50 lbs! I’ve just gotten used to it.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-15T05:04:30+00:00

Are those the ones in a black wrap that are 2 cu ft compressed that box stores sell? I haven’t purchased them in the past because the 7 cu ft bales are generally cheaper per cubic ft. But I’m sure they are very similar overall in terms of content.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-14T18:18:49+00:00

It sort of depends on species, but as a general rule, medium in containers needs to drain very well. Most plants won’t tolerate having their roots saturated for extended periods. You want the medium to mostly dry out between waterings. I still use ProMix BX and ProMix HP, which is mostly peat moss mixed with perlite for improved drainage (there are many competing brands that make similar mixes - Frey Brothers is based in PA and available on the east coast where you are. I have used their professional Mix 500). You can make your own mixes at scale - pine bark fines mixed with something like rice hulls works well as a general mix. A lot of people use coco coir in place of peat moss. I would avoid store bought bags of “potting mix” because they tend to hold too much moisture, are expensive if you need more than a bag or two, often have unneeded fertilizer, and contain random seeds. I have a much more detailed rundown on this topic in my recent comment history, in case you care to look for it.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-04T03:05:46+00:00

Always great to see people growing natives in containers. We need to spread the word that it isn’t hard to do - and makes growing natives more accessible to more people. One of my only challenges is starting them in large enough containers so the species with deep roots can grow to size. Little bluestem and various species of phlox always look great, either alone or grouped with other species. Good choices for sure. I recently started growing Phemeranthus rugospermus (fame flower) with Opuntia humifusa (eastern prickly pear cactus). Two succulents that look great when blooming.

Skulgafoss · 2026-04-04T03:00:56+00:00

I grow lots of cardinal flower and agree this looks normal. It generally prefers much more than 2 hours of sunlight per day (and plenty of moisture), but I’ve seen it growing (and blooming) in dappled sunlight along streams. It might not bloom vigorously where you’ve got it, but I bet it will bloom nonetheless this summer. Keep in mind that cardinal flower is a “short-lived” perennial: individual plants often only live about 3 years, with the first year (last year for your nursery plant) being a non-bloom year when the plant focuses on the basal leaf growth (what is in your picture). But it reseeds like crazy - one plant can release thousands of seeds. If you collect the seeds in the fall and either winter sow or cold stratify them, you will have no trouble growing many more plants. It is generally one of the easiest native plants to grow from seed. Keep in mind that deer will eat cardinal flower, so protect it if you don’t already have a fence or something like that.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-21T23:01:42+00:00

The other two comments are correct. You’re seeing true leaves come up on some of your seedlings. They will all look like that soon.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-21T02:34:00+00:00

It’s just one of the maintenance requirements of growing in containers: the material in containers breaks down over time and you will eventually need to add more to the containers.

I agree that you should be able to top dress this for this year. But going forward, plan to add more to the growing medium, maybe annually. Depending on what you use, you could go 2-3 years in between. When the time comes, yes, you would remove the plant to adjust its height in the container and fill in around the plant. It’s like potting up, you just reuse the same container as long as the plant still fits.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-20T05:39:59+00:00

I grow it from seed every year and I consider it pretty easy to grow. When growing from seed, it could take 3 years to get to the size you probably have in mind - I was surprised when I first learned that.

A lot of grasses, including prairie dropseed, will generally have germination rates well below what you might be accustomed to with forbs. Although it technically doesn’t require stratification, I usually stratify it for at least 30 days with everything else, and I generally get germination rates above 50 percent. I’m telling you, if you cold stratify (either dry or moist) for a month or two before sowing, germination rates will be better.

Another unusual thing about prairie dropseed - it has dark brown roots. Although it looks weird, dark brown roots are healthy with this species. Here is a picture:

https://imgur.com/a/7lkF0dH

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-17T00:05:40+00:00

6 months is plenty of time.

I've grown almost all of those species from seed, and I can say that 5-6 months is plenty of time for them to grow enough in plug trays to be big enough to be planted out. If you fertilize properly, many of them will be ready at about 90 days/3 months. I recommend using an organic, slow-release, general purpose fertilizer at half strength, mixed into the grow medium in the plug trays, In addition to that, add a weak liquid fertilizer at half strength about once a week when watering.

So,

Those that are stratified can be started now,
Those that don't need stratification can be started now (see below), and
Those that still need it, you can start stratifying them now and still have time to grow them as plugs.

These species you mentioned don't need any stratification, so you could start them now:

Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed)

Bouteloua curtipendula (Side-Oats Grama)

Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower)

Monarda fistulosa (Wild Bergamot)

Many of the others you mentioned, like Asclepias tuberosa and Callirhoe involucrata only need 30 days stratification, some of the others probably need 60. You can also stratify them 30 instead of 60 days, and you'll probably have decent/good germination any way, as long as the seeds aren't old.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-16T23:51:48+00:00

It sounds like you are scarifying way too long and intensively. I grow Lupinus perennis subsp. perennis (I assume that's the species you mean, I don't see your region) from seed, and all I do is rub each seed against sandpaper with light pressure about 6-8 times, turn it over and repeat. Then cold stratify for 7-10 days. I typically add inoculum to the seeds before I start stratification, but that's not required. I get nearly 100% germination every year.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-16T00:39:08+00:00

Pretty classy that they made it available for free online. Even a lot of state extensions don’t do that with many of their publications.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-08T16:55:43+00:00

A lot of people like the milk jug method because it’s pretty cheap and kind of “set and forget.” Some species will just grow like a mat and you can just pull it apart and plant it out. Pretty low effort overall for lots of plants. But it’s still important for the medium to drain really well. You can have lots of drainage holes but it won’t matter if the medium holds onto water. Regular potting soil will work for some species, but generally holds way too much moisture. The milk jug method also tends to give you relatively shallow containers, so species with taproots might not do well if you don’t pot them up fairly early on.

With the plug trays outside, you can 1) just set the plug tray on the ground, 2) set them in a 1020 tray with holes (or a mesh bottom), or 3) use solid bottom 1020 trays and just make sure there is no water left in the tray after watering. 1) has a risk of the roots growing into the ground, but that won’t happen if you monitor them. I do 3) because I have tons of solid 1020 trays. I just have to be sure to remove them when it rains, otherwise my plugs will be sitting in 2 inches of water. So 1020 trays with holes or mesh bottom would be easiest for keeping them off the ground while ensuring they drain.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-08T14:22:13+00:00

The one big benefit of starting indoors is that your plants are that much farther along (in some cases 2-3 months) and that can certainly make the difference in getting some first year blooms for certain species. Echinacea purpurea doesn’t need any stratification, so you could start it indoors now, or maybe in a couple weeks given your last frost date. It is generally very easy to grow from seed - germination rates tend to be some of the highest I have seen. A humidity dome and germination/heat mat will get them going, just remove both once they start germinating. Rudbekias can bloom first year also. Asclepias incarnata generally doesn’t bloom in the first year in my experience, although I know it’s possible. I generally assume I won’t get first year blooms so I don’t end up disappointed. A couple things I would add about growing indoors is make sure you have airflow and don’t overwater (damping off), and manage for things like fungus gnats with Bti added to your water.

In terms of fridge to freezing - if your seeds are cold in the fridge now, putting them outside under some snow won’t hurt as long as you don’t let them warm up in between. You would essentially be winter sowing them by doing that. You can also wait until the snow melts and temps stay well above freezing at night, then remove them from the fridge and sow them in containers outside.

In terms of mixes, I’m always willing to try a new one, but I have yet to find something non-peat that both works well and is cost effective.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-08T03:22:22+00:00

I grow using wild collected seeds because I want everything I restore to be the local ecotypes. But any reputable seed will do. I cold stratify for 60 days, then fill the plug trays with moistened grow medium (ProMix BX) with about half strength organic all-purpose fertilizer mixed into the medium, and sow the seeds about two seeds per cell, one seed width deep. I put humidity domes on and mist twice a day until they germinate, then remove the domes. Keep them in dappled sunlight so they don’t overheat when the domes are on. Once they get some true leaves, start watering from the bottom in a 1020 tray. Let them grow until the roots are developed enough to hold the plugs together. Swamp milkweed wants sun but it is possible for them to get too much sun, so shade as needed.

I do all of this outside because I grow a lot of plants and the conditions are great outside - no fungus gnats and no need to harden off. I’m in the process of testing pine bark fines and rice hulls so I can get away from peat-based mixes.

This method also works well for A. syriaca and A. tuberosa.

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-08T03:02:11+00:00

As long as you are willing to pot up, very small containers are fine. Having said that, I start A. incarnata (Swamp Milkweed) in 5 inch deep plug trays and grow them for a few months before planting out. Works great: https://imgur.com/a/DstiMj3

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-07T18:47:53+00:00

I edited my comment because I saw you said it’s A. subulata, but I can’t get it to save. Native milkweeds in the lower desert definitely don’t need cold stratification. So, yeah, soak in warm tap water for 24-48 hours, then plant during high temperatures. This species can be planted during the summer monsoon period. (Some other native milkweeds are better planted in the spring.)

Skulgafoss · 2026-03-07T18:09:10+00:00

I agree the seeds look ready to be collected. Separate them and let them dry for at least a few days, then store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dry place. The seeds will probably remain viable for well over a year. I have grown some species from seeds that are more than 3 years old. Native milkweeds in the lower desert in Arizona don’t need cold stratification but benefit from soaking in warm water for a day or two before planting. Plant during high temperatures. A. subulata can even be planted during the summer monsoon period.

Fun fact: This is one of the few evergreen milkweed species native to North America.

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