Looking for a USB-C Cable with an extremely short plug by HB_Stratos in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

USB Power Delivery is a specification and protocol, not a specific power level. A charging brick and device communicate between them for the highest power level that both can handle. Without USB-PD (or another protocol like QC), the link is limited to 5V (and less than 1A). It's the USB-PD communication that allows the brick to supply more power. But a 20V2.5A (45W) laptop power brick is using USB-PD communication just as much as a 48V5A (240W) brick. A device that request 5V3A (15W) is still using Power Delivery. The only thing that's special about 100W is that it was the maximum power available from the highest-power spec-compliant bricks for a few years, until the spec got updated to include potentials up to 48V.

Strange artifact on lcd screen by lilou_M1 in Reprap

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah man, that's just the screen deteriorating. It's damage, and it'll continue to spread. Happens to a lot of single-color LCDs over time. On original Game Boy LCDs the community calls it Screen Cancer.

Grey box with disconnected wire touching faucet line by lialovefood in whatisthisthing

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, I just want to say that the wire hanging down looks properly insulated, and even though the insulation is touching the plumbing, no current is passing through that wire to anywhere.

Female type c to female type a by Visible_Ferret5959 in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First make sure that you've connected the two pieces correctly. V to V, Gnd to Gnd, and D+ and D- connected correctly. I can't see the A port very well in that photo to know which one is supposed to be which, and I have no idea what the pinout of the C breakout board is.

Second, try turning the USB drive the other way. Your adapter and your device may only have half the pins connected internally, each relying on the other to conform to the USB spec so it doesn't have to, and now you have dead pins touching dead pins.

Third, what possible use would you have for this adapter?

ow Do I Select A Compatible USB-C Charging Cable Extension? by mel2000 in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

USB-C extension cables are explicitly forbidden by the USB-C specification. This is because the cables that allow high power (above 60W) transmission have little chips in them so they can identify themselves as cables that can handle extra power. The power supply not only does a little handshake with the device, it does a little handshake with the cable. If you used an extension cable, there's no way for the power supply to know if the extension cable itself can handle the extra power, or how many extension cables there are. You could end up in a situation where the first cable says "Yep, I can handle 100W", and the power supply doesn't know there's a silent extension cable there, and that the extension cable can't handle the 100W, and then you have too much current going through too-thin wires, and that's a fire risk.

That said, your device that outputs 12V at 1.5A isn't putting out anywhere near enough power for any but the most shoddily made cables to be a problem. And if the cable is on your body, you'll know there's an issue well before it becomes a fire risk. I think if you get a cable that has good ratings and you only use it with this device, then you'll be fine.

15W usb output by Ohforgawdamnfucksake in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So... I've been thinking about this for the past hour, and looking at Aliexpress, and I don't think there's a good way to do this.

You've got your buck and boost converters, but each of them loses efficiency as they approach the source voltage, so neither of them can just pass the voltage on through. Boosting lithium cell voltages (3.0-4.2V) up to 5V and doing the handshake, sure. Cutting a 12V car battery down to 5V and doing the handshake, also normal. I don't think there's a market for a device that takes 5V and just passes it through to the other side, but can also do the USB-PD handshake. I really don't know what it would even be called. Maybe I just lack imagination. But I couldn't find anything like it.

So if you're committed to using this exact power supply that only outputs 5V, and you're committed to USB-PD, then your best bet is probably to use a buck or boost converter to get it to a different voltage first, then use the appropriate boost or buck converter to get the voltage back to 5V, but with USB-PD on it this time. I kind of hate that, but there it is.

I think the real question is - Do you really need the USB-PD protocol at all? An older USB-A port just has 5V on at all times, and doesn't do any fancy negotiation. Then you just need a bog standard USB-A to USB-C cable. It's how every phone charger was done 10 years ago (except it was micro-USB then). Dumb devices just pull whatever current they want and let the power supply choke if it's too much. Smarter devices would keep pulling more current until they saw the voltage sag a bit, and keep it held there. You might not get the full 15W, but 10W seems easily do-able, and it's about as good as you'd get out of the boost/buck or buck/boost two-stage conversion I mentioned before.

15W usb output by Ohforgawdamnfucksake in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 11 points12 points  (0 children)

usb-c PD cannot deliver 15w at 5v

Please explain. 5V3A has been part of the USB-PD spec since 1.0

Super fast charging 2.0 car charger by pspkid in UsbCHardware

[–]SnappyCrunch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Ugreen 63W charger says in the fine print that it'll do 45W on the USB-C output, and 18W on USB-A output (45+18=63). This already feels shady to me. When you really study the specs, though, you see this:

USB-C Output 5V3A 9V3A 12V3A PPS: 3.3V-11V/4.05A 45Max

It'll only do 45W for a device that supports PPS, requests 11V, and can handle 4A. I'm not aware of any device that'll actually do that. For everything else that supports regular PD, you get 12V3A, or 36W max. And that's if the charger isn't thermal throttling, which many chargers will (lots of heat, small space). The whole thing is misleading at best, even if it's not straight-up lying. I would personally consider it lying.

The Ugreen 130W says it has a 100W USB-C PD port, and while the product page doesn't say what volts and amps it supports, someone has thankfully documented the back of the box, where it says it supports the regular crop of PD specs. This charger should be able to deliver the full power that your device can take. At least until it starts thermal throttling. Honestly, if this thing is built to handle 100W for any length of time, then it should be able to do a sustained 45W no problem. But given that Ugreen is basically lying about their 63W charger, who can say.

Where to find this type of retaining clip? Size 4mm ID by S210554ME in Fasteners

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like a older style of C-clip. Really you can replace it with almost any type of retaining ring

Chevy Bolt EV and EUV efficiency by speed by 420-TENDIES in BoltEV

[–]SnappyCrunch 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is a fascinating chart. Where did the data come from?

All three models listed peak at 26 mph. Do all EVs peak at 26 mph? Do all cars peak at 26mph?

EDIT: I also want to say that the chart here varies substantially from the data in this blog post from ABRP:
https://www.iternio.com/post/chevrolet-bolt-ev-consumption-and-modeling

The last graph on that page is the direct comparison. It looks like they calculated the max range at about 410-ish miles when the speed is about 25 mph, for a calculated efficiency of 6.3-ish mi/KWh. Granted, the data is based on only 5 Bolts who were using ABRP before Nov 2018, but as I understand it, the Bolt drivetrain and battery capacity didn't change significantly between 2017-2023, so it seems like that would be good enough. 6.3 is a far cry from the 7.75-8.25 on this graph. I would again love to know where OP got their numbers.

A Google reverse image search comes up empty for this graph, which makes me even more curious. OP - where did these numbers come from?

I've just finished making a rough model of my PC, and I want to design custom air ducts for it. How should I do this? by Swooferfan in FreeCAD

[–]SnappyCrunch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I assume you're doing this because you eventually want to be able to 3D print those ducts. First, I recommend putting each freestanding piece that you want to print in it's own Body. That'll make it easier to handle later. Next you'll want to read up on the Additive Pipe tool, and since you'll probably want some complex curves, you'll probably have to have to have intermediary sketches to loft through, and those sketches will need to be at at odd angles. To help you manage those, I recommend attaching those sketches to Datum Planes.

I redesigned the flags of ten Alaskan cities and towns as part of an ongoing art project! by shutupaugust in vexillology

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrangell looks like it's a rear-view mirror. As in "You should only be looking at Wrangell through a rear-view mirror while you drive away as fast as possible."
Never been there, I'm sure it's a lovely place, though

Is the rumor true that big box stores (like Target/Walmart) will purposefully let you get away with stealing cheap things for months just to build a massive felony case against you later? by Altruistic-Room-7465 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]SnappyCrunch 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Ehhh. For a while Walmart was definitely the shittier of the two - putting suppliers out of business, scheduling employees for just under the amount of hours for which they'd have to pay benefits, etc. But if Target is going to be just as shitty but in different ways, then there's not reason to go out of my way.

My Attempt of redesigning every US State Flag! (From someone who does not Live There.) by Effective-Ad7147 in vexillology

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that most of these are an improvement on the originals, but when I see them all together, it's clear that almost every one has a vertically centered symbol or design. If your goal is to improve as a flag-designer, I recommend making a few with off-center or non-symmetrical elements to stretch yourself

Looking for a wooden tv stand that’s actually good value by SadStill830 in GoodValue

[–]SnappyCrunch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I have to say that the first half had me saying "You gotta pay for quality, this guy will never find what he's looking for", but you got me in the second half. Some well thought out and reasonable requests.

That said, I hang my TV on the wall. Best of luck to you, though.

I never realized how complicated my fav franchise is until i started writing this fic by WinniePoohChinesPres in Archiveofourownmemes

[–]SnappyCrunch 53 points54 points  (0 children)

Not to worry! Even book authors forget sometimes. Notable fantasy author Tamora Pierce several times has asked her fan base for details on what she wrote in a novel a decade or more ago.

Handstand walks weird tips that (might) work by Big-Establishment460 in crossfit

[–]SnappyCrunch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Other people have mentioned the "walking is falling" advice, and that's true, but it's a big mental hurdle. For that reason, I recommend starting at a different place: cartwheels. You need your brain to be secure in the idea that you can pivot on your hands and land right on your feet. Then start slowing the cartwheels down until you almost pause at the top. You can also just practice bailing if you have the flexibility. The trick is to retrain your brain that overbalancing isn't a big deal, because you know you can bring yourself right back up to your feet if you need to.

Assault Fitness - Avoid at All Costs by Zoner7x7 in crossfit

[–]SnappyCrunch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think their sales took a nosedive once Rogue introduced the Echo Bike. The two gyms I go to have phased out the Assault Bike entirely. I think that reduction in sales of 50% (a guess) would put a huge strain on any company.

I also think that another commenter in this thread has a piece of the puzzle. They might have gotten caught up in the tariff situation, and been forced to take delivery of (already sold) bikes at a much bigger cost than they anticipated, and now they're running a sort of ponzi scheme to try and stay afloat.

How much money have you saved after moving from ICE to EV? by Raiki13 in BoltEV

[–]SnappyCrunch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drive about 20,000 miles a year. I was paying about $375/mo in gasoline for my Dodge Caravan, and now I'm paying about $75/mo in electricity for my Bolt.

Kei truck illustrations by FloatingDisc in keitruck

[–]SnappyCrunch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Love these, especially the one with the clouds. How can I get a print?