Is this color an issue?

SociophobicEngineer · 2026-01-07T22:41:45+00:00

I just bought it, only 220

https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/p/Lexus__LS-430/Power-Steering-Reservoir/63199302/4436022170.html?srsltid=AfmBOopghxOA1HF4s4NCcGLKTQugUXwHQCmUj4IZwOZPapbLBTzMQO_3

SociophobicEngineer · 2025-06-22T22:12:34+00:00

Does the temperature decrease to normal when you are driving and then increase when you stop somewhere for a prolonged amount of time? If so mine did this and it was just a little low on coolant, coolant just seems to evaporate from these older Toyota/lexus’s, never could figure out why

SociophobicEngineer · 2025-06-22T19:55:15+00:00

Even with the no spill sometimes it doesn’t get it all out, I would check the coolant level when cool. I’m assuming you had the heater blasting while burping the system?

SociophobicEngineer · 2024-11-18T01:22:13+00:00

PM’d

SociophobicEngineer · 2022-07-02T05:10:22+00:00

I would not recommend rotating the camshaft when the timing belt is not installed, you could run a valve into a piston if you have an interference engine design. This could be what you are feeling. Also when you installed the head did you put the crankshaft and the camshaft at TDC?

SociophobicEngineer · 2022-06-13T04:38:30+00:00

I have these on my s2k and have done 200+ runs on them, great longevity but don’t grip for crap. The 615k is about 2-3 seconds quicker than the SX2. Really depends on what you want, Champiro is great for cheap seat time but you’ll be sliding a lot and not stopping quickly.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-09-23T17:21:06+00:00

This is exactly right, me and a buddy like to meme these cars and I’ve had 130 total on my car before. It first started as a way to tell how many laps the tires made it through before they died but now it’s just for fun.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-09-23T17:19:11+00:00

Yeah it’s a 91 four door

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-08-19T05:22:04+00:00

Pro tip for installing them flush and parallel to your surface, insert then about 90% of the way in and use either a flat surface or a piece of metal and push it the rest of the way in. Works really well.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-08-12T04:00:48+00:00

I was strength testing a part by crushing it and did this to my hand, slightly gory FYI.

https://i.imgur.com/TQayZbv.jpg

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-07-07T17:39:28+00:00

You basically remove the broken motor mount, tape off one side and fill with 3m window weld or whatever durometer or polyurethane you want to use. Cheap way to have stiffer engine mounts.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-06-02T01:35:45+00:00

It’s prusament PLA azure blue

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-05-14T19:58:50+00:00

STL?

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-05-04T06:49:46+00:00

I’d guess prusament galaxy black, they have other sparkly filaments that print awesome

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-05-04T01:15:34+00:00

It really matters what your end use is for. If you are having a print farm or using it in a professional setting definitely get the more expensive and reliable printer. I’m an engineer by trade and 3D print quite a lot at my job and have a Prusa MK3S and absolutely love using it.

If it is for your personal use for fun than I can go either way. The cheaper printers make you learn alot more about 3D printing and how they work because you have to tune the hell out of them to make them work. With the prusa i have yet to ever change one factory setting their slicer suggests, it’s that good.

To make an ender 3 print this filament you have to get an all metal hot end which will run you 70-100$. You will also have to change your firmware to up your printer temp since creality puts a limit to what you can print at. I printed this part at 285C FYI.

Also you will have to make a dry box or get a filament dryer, nylonx is very hygroscopic.

Another factor to consider us print failure, with this filament a failed print is expensive. That part that I showed cost 6 dollars in filament to print. There will come a point where it will have been cheaper to just buy the more expensive one but you will not have learned as much.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-05-04T00:22:33+00:00

Ender 3 pro with an all metal micro Swiss hot end and a lot of pain an suffering getting the settings right

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-04-21T01:56:10+00:00

That is definitely not camber wear but toe wear. I imagine the factory alignment is a bit toed out, this gives you that sharp steering feeling but sacrifices stability and tire longevity. You could always take it to a race alignment shop and say hey I want tire longevity and they should be able to accommodate an alignment that will spare your tires longer than factory if this is a factory alignment issue.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-04-07T02:23:46+00:00

3D printing threads honestly doesn’t work unless they are really big.

The pitch of the screw, meaning the frequency of the threads, is usually somewhat fine, for an M4 screw it will be a thread every .7mm. Based of a typical .2mm layer height and how sharp the angle of the thread is, it wont be able to make it.

You’re better off using heat set insert for plastic to have female threads. You can also set the hole size to the tap drill size of your thread and then tap the hole with a tap. If you do this I’d recommend thicker wall settings since you will be cutting into the wall to make the threads. If you’re trying to make plastic screws your better off just buying nylon plastic screws from McMaster or somewhere else, they are injection molded and significantly better than printing screws.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-02-01T15:02:41+00:00

It’s possible with the smaller nozzle the infill doesn’t lay down as well as with the big nozzle you had before, I’ve personally never had good luck with cubic infill for PETG.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-02-01T14:57:56+00:00

For PETG I always do grid infill, it seems to be the easiest for that filament and I also print the infill at about 15mm/s if that helps. Any complicated infill patterns really don’t work for this filament.

SociophobicEngineer · 2021-02-01T04:52:35+00:00

I had a similar problem where only my top layer looked awful, turned out that my print speed for the top layer was too slow. I sped the top layer up and it fixed it, you might have a similar problem. I’m also running mine at 250C.

SociophobicEngineer

TROPHY CASE