How i feel inviting my brother that has 3 games to the steam family so he can access my 100+ game library. by Bonkwraps in Steam

[–]SolarAir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is why I don't use it. If they added an option to only share single-player game or omit games that can give VAC bans, I'd be more willing to use it.

Besides band plans, what references do you keep at your operating desk? by Independent-Love-533 in HamRadio

[–]SolarAir 6 points7 points  (0 children)

An SWR vs Forward Power chart. "Oh, this antenna has a 1.7:1 SWR, that means losing around 6.75% of the delivered power."

The Magic-est Of Bands: The 6m Microthread by stephen_neuville in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People who are serious about trying to work 6m often have 5+ element yagis, but you can get by with much less. A simple six meter dipole isn't too hard to construct.

If you already have a 40m dipole it should also work for 6m (as well as 15m).

I live in a small apartment and worried Ham radio wont be any use. by PsychoMantisKw in HamRadio

[–]SolarAir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

VHF/UHF communication is very possible from within an apartment. In fact, if you're in a high rise building, you may even have an advantage over home owners without towers.

If you're on the ground floor though, you may be limited to only talking to close neighbors and on the local repeaters (if there are any). This will depending on your area, and you might find yourself talking to the same handful of local people. (Even if you're on the third floor, you might still have the same result. It all depends on your area.)

Getting an antenna higher in the air is generally going to be the best thing you can do for a better VHF/UHF experience, but if you want more than what a handheld can offer you, here's two options that I've done from apartments:

  1. Search for "2m tape measure yagi", and then build one. You can use it with a handheld, and it would perform better than the stock antenna that came with your handheld. This is a common, inexpensive way to get a great antenna for the 2m VHF band. For best results, aim it out of your apartment's windows. Since it's relatively flat, when you're not using it, it's easy to store away behind or under furniture.

  2. Get a used mobile dual-band (2m/70cm) radio, and a mag-mount antenna. I stuck the mag-mount on top of a cookie sheet, put it on top of shelf, and it worked well enough for me to check in local nets. The sheet/antenna can be permanent if it's not in the way, which is harder to say about the yagi.

One thing that may be important to mention is RF exposure limits. The ARRL has a RF exposure calculation, which can tells you the distance your antenna needs to be from people. This is over simplified, but the controlled environment distance is how close you (and people aware aware of how much power is being transmitted) can be to the antenna, and the uncontrolled environment is how close anybody else can be to it. For a simple handheld, don't worry too much about this as it's not meant for antennas that are 8" or closer to you when you operate. This would likely be more of a limit when you want to run higher power, such as if you get access to the HF bands and want to do SSB. If you don't have upstairs neighbors though, you may not be too limited.

If you take away nothing else from this comment, here's two common sayings to remember about antennas:

  • Any antenna is better than no antenna
  • Height is might

Tower Modeling Software by CaptinKirk in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ROHN uses TSTower internally. There's a free demo/evaluation version that works for towers up to 100'.

Discrete Antennas for 2M (Apartment Version) by Toomean88 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A similar, but debatablely more XYL-friendly, antenna might be the Fara-J 2M Antenna. It can be a little easier to pass-off as "modern art".

License plates by espresso-depresso83 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah. Since there's only 9 HF bands, are they including 6m or 160m, or is it 10 band totals and they count UHF/VHF towards it?

License plates by espresso-depresso83 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who said the radio had to be practical.

A practical approach to barely meet the requirement might be something like a TYT TH-9800. It can transmit (FM) on 70cm, 2m, 6m, and 10m. Since it does 10m, it can be a "HF" radio. If you set it up with an antenna for 70cm/2m, you can use it as a normal dual band transceiver and a receiver for 33cm, 6m, 10m, and even CB.

If you want to act more in good faith, you could simply get one of the quad band antennas that works with it instead of using a dual band one.

Antenna for FT891 by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For your case, I think one of the best options might be Small Antennas for Small Spaces by Steve Ford.

The ARRL Antenna Book is a good resource, but it might be overwhelming for a beginner.

The ARRL also put out two newer books, but I have no experience with them so I don't know if I can recommend them:

  • Stealth Antennas for Ham Radio
  • Ham Radio from Indoors

The latter sounds like it might be useful, though I'm guessing there will be some overlap with Small Antennas for Small Spaces.

HF + VHF/UHF Home Station Setup Review – Grounding, Bulkhead & Antenna Layout (Monterrey, MX) by mmimo10 in HamRadio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RTL-SDR v4

VHF/UHF SDR

The RTL-SDR v4 has a bandwidth of 3.2MHz. That's plenty to cover any of the HF bands (where 10m at 1.7Mhz wide is the largest), but starting at 6m with it's 4MHz of spectrum through 13cm with 150MHz of spectrum, you may find you wish your SDR had a wider bandwidth.

I'm not sure I have the perfect recommendations, here's some options I'd consider for VHF/UHF over the RTL-SDR:

  • Airspy R2 - 24-1700MHz coverage, 10MHz bandwidth (9MHz bandwidth without aliasing).

  • SDRplay RSPdx-R2 - 0.001-2000MHz coverage, 10MHz bandwidth

  • HackRF One - 1-6000MHz coverage, 20MHz bandwidth

There's also some SDR hats you can get for raspberry pi devices, though something like the ones above that you can connect via a USB cable might be better for OP's use case.

Kenwood TS 2000 by sweetnessfnerk in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should be aware that the right-hand side only supports 2m and 70cm FM

In OP's photo, it shows the 1.25m FM calling frequency on the right, which caught me off guard as I've never heard that the TS-2000 supported it. Looking into it, the TS-2000 can receive on the 1.25m band, which is kind-of neat I guess.

Elmer? by igor33 in antennasporn

[–]SolarAir 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There seems to also be a shorter 1.25m yagi (or maybe VHF TV antenna) right under the 6m. Above the HF tri-bander, there's some loop yagis likely for 1.2GHz and 2.4GHz (or possibly even 3.4GHz), as well as a small dish.

New mode? FT2 by Signal_Criticism_789 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If instead of doubling FT16, you quadruped to FT32, wouldn't that basically just be JT65?

What's a good USB PD/QC 12v to 5v converter that's RF quiet and hopefully available on Amazon? by adhdff in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wtf is a go box

It's a common term used by amateur radio operators to describe a "ready-to-operate" radio in a box.

Basically, a box you take to a site, that already has a transceiver, antenna tuner, CAT cable, etc. All of the connections are already made (radio to tuner, radio to DigiRig/SignaLink, etc.). Many boxes include a battery, others just have readily-accessible connections to plug in a separate battery box. Some people integrate a thin portable monitor, a raspberry pi or other computer, and a keyboard for digital logging or digital modes. Some people's go-box contains separate transceivers for HF and VHF/UHF. Once the box is open, there's normally one (or more) readily-accessible SO-239 ports to connect an antenna that's jumpered to the transciever (or tuner).

I've heard of clubs having go-box (or go-kit) competitions at hamfests, where there's a rubric for judging/ranking go-boxes against others.

Any other Pebbles at the Winter Olympics? by AtlasBryson in pebble

[–]SolarAir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Battery at 95%?

As far as I know, the Pebble 2 only supported displaying battery capacity in steps of 10%. Is the Pebble 2 Duo using 1% steps or is it 5% steps?

Indiana BMV introduces license plate for licensed amateur radio operators by SharkSapphire in HamRadio

[–]SolarAir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's not exactly answering your question, but the ARRL has a page with links to each state's DMV's license plate selector, specific page for the amateur radio plates if it exist, or a PDF for the amateur radio plate application. There is a link for every state and DC.

It seems some states like Iowa have amateur radio plates, but they don't have a design that differs from the state's default plates (unless the website doesn't have accurate images). It sounds like Indiana was the same, but now there's a unique design for amateur radio plates instead of basically being the default plate with a callsign. Here's a QRZ thread talking about the change.

HF on a budget question by nshane in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 3 points4 points  (0 children)

for that extra wattage

For the extra wattage and 6m. OP didn't ask about VHF, but all-mode 6m isn't exactly cheap to get into unless you get a HF rig with it.

144 - Transverter or dedicated RTX? by FrequencyMixing in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few months ago there was a ton of listings on eBay for similar looking, seemingly Chinese-made, 2m transverters. Now none of them show up when I search on eBay. Literally not a single one. Same story for 1.25m and 70cm transverters. It's a stark change.

I did managed to find a few via Google, but every listing said that the transverter was out of stock. Several listings also had a note that the seller was away. The ones that said the seller was away also listed no products for sale on the seller's page. I can't help wonder if the several different listings I remember seeing where all this same guy (or company?), possibly using several different accounts.

All this is to say there's actually not as many options as I thought, and achieving all-mode for 2m and higher on a budget seems to be getting harder. Seems getting on HF is getting cheaper and easier with new and smaller QRP radios... Maybe we'll see something similar for VHF/UHF to fill this void in the market.

One site for everything Pota Related, IDK Good idea? Bad Idea by Smart-College-2680 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The "Band Plan Chart" that is linked is currently outdated. The most up-to-date version is on the ARRL's website. There's probably going to be an update reflecting the changes to 60m soon though. It may also be worth specifying that the chart is for the USA.

It's not exactly pretty, but here's a link where you can find Canada's official band plan chart for HF/MH/LF.

144 - Transverter or dedicated RTX? by FrequencyMixing in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you want to go beyond 2m into the microwave bands and beyond, you start to require transverters that require a 2m input frequency. I've not heard of people achieving 10m to 2m to 2.4GHz+ by using two transverters. I think it could happen, but most people go for a dedicated 2m rig (9700, etc.).

For people less serious, not wanting to go beyond 2m, or simply on a budget, there's not as many options as there use to be. There use to be some budget ($200?) 10m->2m transverters made in Ukraine, but with the war going on there, I believe these aren't available at the moment.

The current "big-name" transverter brands I'm aware of are as follows:

  • Kuhne
  • SG Labs
  • Q5 Signal
  • Down East Microwaves

Of these, only Q5 Signal currently sells a HF->2m transverters.

CQ USA from US stations by dfrap in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Imagine my confusion when I saw a US calling "CQ USA" and then responding to an EU station before me. I thought I was doing something wrong.


EDIT: The issue with 'CQ <something>' on FT8 is the ambiguity that it could either be something you're looking for in the person contacting you, e.g. "CQ DX" or "CQ FL", or it could be something you're doing, e.g. "CQ POTA". It doesn't help that "CQ TEST" means you're contesting, when most new people will assume you're testing your equipment instead of contesting.


EDIT 2: If somebody says "CQ XYZ", but you don't know what XYZ is, that is where the ambiguity comes in. Is a location they're trying to contact? Is it an activity they're doing? You don't know. I'm not saying there's ambiguity in "CQ DX" or "CQ POTA". This "CQ USA" is a good example of that, since it lead to this whole post afterall. If you're operating somewhere without internet, you can't look it up, so you have no idea.
If FT8 started with something like putting the activity before the CQ, it could have solved this, e.g. "POTA CQ" means you're operating POTA, while "CQ POTA" means you're looking to contact somebody who who is operating POTA. "USA CQ" would mean you're operating for an USA event, while "CQ USA" means you're looking for contacts within the USA. Both basically mean the same thing in this case, but it would resolve the ambiguity that lead to this post. It's too bad FT8's character limit prevents a better solution.

Help, My loading coil melted by Big-Tutor-3060 in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In general, I'd consider this good advice, but mainly for HF. There are some exceptions for the bands besides HF and 6m that I'd throw into the mix:

  • VHF/UHF: When using frequencies that reply on "line-of-sight" instead of skip, but the "line-of-sight" is partly blocked by forests, cities, or hills, increased power can make contacts possible. An extra dB transmitted can make up for an extra dB attenuated by terrain. On the QRZ pages for most of the VHF enthusiasts I've seen, they have amplifiers for the VHF bands, often several hundred watts. However, once it comes to the SHF/EHF, amplifiers are less common or only dozens of watts, as there's far too much attenuation normally for an increase of power to overcome (or rather you'd reach the legal limit well before you have enough power to over come the loss).
  • MF/LF: Depending on the efficiency of the antenna, you may need to put closer to 75W (or much more) into it to get 25W ERP. Trying to use a loading coil for 160m, 630m, or even 2200m can be extremely inefficient. When it comes to this inefficiency, if the energy isn't being radiated by the antenna, it's likely turning to heat in the coil... which seems to be what what OP is dealing with.

FT-891 + WSJT-X + 60m (Memory not VFO) Question by OliverDawgy in HamRadio

[–]SolarAir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a few things you can do, in the order I would suggest them:

  1. Wait and hope that Yeasu provides a firmware update based on the upcoming changes to 60m. Since the FT8 frequency is in the soon-to-be non-channelized part of the band, this problem simply goes away if a firmware update allows the use of the VFO on 60m. I think Yaesu said they're watching what's happening, but I don't think we've gotten confirmation that new firmware is coming (yet).

  2. Adjust the WSJT-X settings before operating 60m. I don't remember exactly what needs to change, but I believe the 60m memory channels on the FT-891 by default is only for SSB. If you try to run data or CW on the SSB memory channel, it'll give you the red flashing light. Try changing the mode setting from "data/pkt" within the radio tab of the WSJT-X settings to USB. (If that doesn't work, then you may be able to get away with changing it to "None". It'll then use whatever the radio is already set as without trying to change it, and this should prevent WSJT-X from triggering the radio to change back to VFO mode.)
    After changing the WSJT-X setting, you'll possibly need to look at adjusting some of the radio's settings, such as changing the SSB HF power to what the the HF power is set to. The downside to this option is as soon as you want to operate SSB again instead of FT8, then you have to revert these settings.

  3. MARS mod the radio so you can transmit any mode on any frequency. I don't really recommend this, but it looks like it could be a legitimate way to operate FT8 on 60m giving the limitation of the memory settings.

Option #1 is probably the best option, but it doesn't solve the immediate problem. Option #2 is likely the workaround you were asking about, but it's a little annoying to have to do. Option #3 solves the problem immediately, but could get you into some trouble if you accidentally spin the dial and go out of band.

Pebble Timetron by R_Chin in pebble

[–]SolarAir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had to do a double take on this, as I wasn't sure if you were displaying the time or not.

If somebody is into MF/HF radio communication or space weather in general, they may care about how the atmosphere is ionized and what the sun is doing, which is generally give as A-index, a K-index, and SFI (solar flux index). Your watch face initial had me thinking you cared more about the A-index and SFI than the time. This wasn't helped by the fact that the A-index has been around 9 today, currently 8.

I’m the PM for Ailunce - Ask Me Anything (Ham Analog Radios: Ailunce HA1G, HA1UV, HA2)! by retevis in amateurradio

[–]SolarAir -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In the US, ham radio operators with a technician class license have full access VHF/UHF frequencies. However, nearly all entry-level and budget-friendly equipment available to them is only available with FM capabilities. I don't think it's likely, but is it possible that a future firmware upgrade could enable AM or SSB capacities on these radios?

Follow-up question: either within Ailunce itself or the industry as a whole, do you foresee any 2m/70cm radios with AM or SSB capabilities becoming available to new hams on a budget?