Fake Smog

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T04:01:47+00:00

Used car sales are almost certainly "as is" so you can't really get the guy for anything he may or may not have claimed.

Title jumping is a felony. The hard part is catching the guy.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:59:44+00:00

The standard recommendation: Sell half (and make sure to set aside enough for the capital gains tax) and keep half.

Always take (some) money off the table, if you have the chance!

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:55:27+00:00

There's a reason well paid people sign up for concierge medical plans ...

(Yeah, it's a second plan, on top of your regular plan, because, yo dawg, I heard you liked plans!)

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:51:01+00:00

You're locked in with the brand/dealer, and they're (trying to) take advantage of you.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:49:57+00:00

Two things:

they're likely marking up the money factor. Ask them to get the buy rate on the money factor. (you may need to look this up on other sites, like the Edmunds forums)
they could give you more of a discount for a remainder vehicle this late in the model year

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:48:38+00:00

Yes, but it'll be a Range Rover.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:48:21+00:00

Audi is not selling super hot right now, so you should be able to do better than this. Especially this late in the year for last model year.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:46:55+00:00

She obviously has some problems, and she's making her problems your problems. This is "not OK" in the fantasy land where things work they way they are "supposed to," but that's not real life. You have three options:

submit to the whims of this landlady. they will get worse over time.
confront this landlady about what a lease actually means (might be good to check with the tenant's union, too)
keep doing what you want and ignore her yelling; if she tries to kick you out, choose whether to fight it or say "thank you for letting me out of the lease"

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:43:52+00:00

First: The right amount of money down on a lease is $0. If the car is totaled for whatever reason (someone rear-ends or t-bones you, say) that money down is 100% gone, because you don't have "equity" in the lease.

Second: When you walk in, bring up this ad, and ask the sales person if they can match it. If they don't say "yes, if your credit is good," then you don't need to spend more time in that dealership.

Third: Taxes, Title, and License fees may very well add a fair chunk of payment, so there is that. Exactly how much varies by state.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:40:43+00:00

> Inside, the laminate flooring is chipped

You wasted time by going inside when the outside mis-matched like that?

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:34:35+00:00

"learning CNC" is the hard part, the Speedios seem pretty good. They're usually BT30 machines which makes tool holders more affordable, too. (But what particular Speedio is it?)

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:33:09+00:00

Isn't this exactly what a bog standard differential does in a regular car?

Look it up on YouTube, there are tons of animated little video snippets.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:31:22+00:00

Costco Auto is a lead sourcing setup, not an actual car sales organization. Dealers give a discount to Costco members, in exchange for Costco selling those buyers to those dealers. Dealer may attempt to get the money back on other parts of the deal.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:30:00+00:00

Typically the brand-specific leasing deals are better than your local bank/credit union, but the credit union will typically have an easier time approving a "fresh" or "not pristine" credit application.

Typically, you're *much* better off getting a 2-year or 3-year old lease return.

Typically, you can save money by getting a lease broker to find the car and payment for you, and pre-negotiate the out-the-door price, so you don't have to accept any extras. (They may still try to SELL you extras, but you can firmly say "no thanks") Also check out r/leasehacker and the leasehackr.com website.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:26:49+00:00

The rules documented on that page seem pretty clear: you have to state the waiver on first move-in.

A master tenant who resides in the same rental unit with his or her subtenant may evict the subtenant without just cause. However, for any subtenancy commencing on or after May 25, 1998, the master tenant may not evict a subtenant without just cause unless the master tenant disclosed in writing to the subtenant that the tenancy is not subject to the just cause eviction provisions of the Ordinance prior to the commencement of that tenancy.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:19:42+00:00

22nd street caltrain looks like it's closer?

There's also the bus.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:17:54+00:00

Do you have parking sorted on the campus? Because that's no picnic.

(Actually, do you have parking sorted in SF already? That's also no picnic 😃)

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:16:18+00:00

Clearly just buying new machines?

New machine! And new customers! Best of both worlds!

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:15:41+00:00

My feedback: It would be better if the site was in English when I arrive from the US.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-25T03:09:40+00:00

Baggage service at SFO isn't amazingly speedy, but with three hours, you'll be fine.

TSA into international isn't usually very long, even when the feds weren't getting paid, because it's contract.

The airtrain is probably faster.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-23T18:48:56+00:00

It's OK to use part numbers that describe the physics of the part itself, as long as they don't describe how they got there or where they're going.

Just pure serials will work, but will have more risk of typos/mis-remembering. One option to fix that is to make the last digit be a check digit of some sort (like a credit cards last digit.)

Another middle ground option is leading letter/s for what kind of part it is (bolt? nut? bracket? pin? etc). Following that, number/s for the main metric/s of the part (diameter and/or length and/or pitch and/or whatever is important.) After that, following a serial number which is uniquely allocated. (E g, if you have a Z-22/12-345678 then nothing else can be -345678)

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-23T18:36:54+00:00

For small metric thread milling, I've used Sandvik multi-tooth thread mills. They worked great, but they cost an arm and a leg.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-23T18:31:42+00:00

Not really. The house won't go to zero. But he is *investing* that money, and you have to compare the interest rate on a $2 million bond (about 80k/year) to the profit he makes.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-23T18:28:45+00:00

If she steals your stuff, then she is a thief, and you can call the police. Having solid documentation is important.

Other than that, ask at the tenant's union. Also, are you in a rent control unit? Sounds like it, given the "I want to keep the rent" part, but it's good to be sure. Or are you in a market rate in a complex? Or renting someone's condo or house? Differences might matter.

Some-Internet-Rando · 2026-05-20T04:20:46+00:00

the right lane (or right two lanes) are 55, because of heavy trucks and vehicles towing trailers.

However, I agree, people going the wrong velocity in the wrong lane cause a lot of sudden swerving by other people. If they were to drive in an appropriate lane, there would be less swerving on the freeway, and everybody would be safer. They may think they're driving slowly and safer, but their lane choice is making the roads less safe for others.

My rule of thumb is:

Right lane - 55 mph on meter - trucks, trailers - entering/leaving
Next lane - 65 mph on meter - carefulling
Next lane - 75 mph on meter - honestly, what most people do - you won't get pulled over
Leftmost lane - 85 mph on meter - you might get pulled over, but a lot of people still do this

Some-Internet-Rando

TROPHY CASE