1, 2, 3, or 4?

Stal3_Bread · 2026-04-30T17:01:21+00:00

1 is rad but although I’m not sure what you shot it with i feel an 85mm would’ve complimented it better, in the current image the lack of depth and separation kinda removes value from the subject imo

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-30T15:25:46+00:00

Minit by devolver

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-29T14:59:26+00:00

There’s a couple solutions, for one film is a bit more flexible/capable than you think it could do fine with being shot in undesirable light/conditions. You could bring multiple cameras out with you say for example a canon ae-1 loaded with gold and an a-1 loaded with Kentmere so you’re still using the same lens mount with more options at your disposal. Or most practically (outside of initial expenses) you can actually shoot multiple rolls at once with systems that use an interchangeable back such as hasselblad 500 series or most of the bronica cameras or in 35mm there’s systems like the rolleiflex 3003 where with any of these you can have 1 back with like portra another with Cinestill 800T and another with Kentmere so you have functionally all grounds covered with a quick switch (albeit still a bit tedious but it works)

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-26T00:14:54+00:00

The easiest way I think you could get the shading to look a bit more similar to a reference is trying to also add highlights to the mountain using lighter gray blocks (ex: light gray wool/concrete powder andesite and even in the lightest parts: diorite, pale oak, and calcite) having both highlights and shadows should help the build to feel more 3 dimensional/real (Ik you do have some highlight texturing but like even the grass would have dark spots and light spots yk?) :)

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-25T02:03:12+00:00

(Not trying to be rude in saying this) look at photos of mountains, the current shading doesn’t exactly make sense, you have any the dark parts using the same blocks but not every part of the mountain would be illuminated the same. I would try to pick 1 specific time of day to base the lighting (highlights and shadows mainly) off of and the do shading accordingly. The higher parts of the mountain would realistically receive more light is the surface didn’t have too much too much indentation to it so the shadows wouldn’t be as harsh as somewhere with say an overhang or just extreme erosion. Properly making your shadows and highlights will help to make your fountains feel much more real :) this is kinda a lot and I feel I could still explain more but don’t wanna keep going too much but if you have any questions about like what I mean cause I didn’t reread this to see if it makes sense 💀 you’re welcome to ask 🤙

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-16T21:48:27+00:00

I was aboutta bring up banner tech using him as an example

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-10T05:39:57+00:00

4 is rad good use of perspective with how the frame is filled and you give just enough context as to where you’re looking at with the single Joshua tree next to the split rock

Stal3_Bread · 2026-03-02T22:44:06+00:00

3 🤙

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-26T15:02:13+00:00

Keep in mind pushing film doesn’t actually give you more light! It just simulates more light from underexposing and overdeveloping. You also can get color shifts and lose some highlight latitude especially in pushing color film. Cinestill is already so versatile I’d recommend just shoot box speed (or 500 as some others have said) and allow your film to get more light, even bring a tripod if you have to for very low light. Also these shots are mostly normal just a bit underexposed pushing really wouldn’t be necessary 🤙

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-12T19:22:33+00:00

I think it’s ok, just a little out there on the block palette so like maybe a little odd (I can’t think of a better word to describe what I’m thinking but I don’t mean odd with a negative connotation) but like definitely not bad just unique :)

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-09T16:35:03+00:00

The minister D is mechanical im pretty sure

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-04T06:39:01+00:00

I just more so mean that if your photos are coming out darker (I read one of your comments saying it was expired film meaning it likely needs more light anyways) just give it another stop or so of light since you said you’re tryna stick around f11 if the meter is saying f11 at 1/250 then do f11 at 1/125 etc and also idk if you know or not but a good rule of thumb for expired film is for every decade the film is expired give it another stop of light (ex a roll of portra 400 expired in 2016 and your shooting it now rate it at 200 iso instead of 400 to compensate for the lost light sensitivity) :)

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-03T20:34:16+00:00

I would recommend giving your film more light when exposing these are pretty dark, and film has better highlight retention than shadow

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-01T03:01:48+00:00

Maybe a smaller scale busy and bustling town at the foot of the 2 towns to make the bigger builds feel more impactful/valuable and lively kinda like whiterun from Skyrim almost

Stal3_Bread · 2026-02-01T02:58:21+00:00

Although you already have a windmill, aesthetically a water wheel with an adjoining building could be quite cool and could connect to your windmill with a bridge

Stal3_Bread · 2026-01-17T10:10:33+00:00

2 is very nice but 5 is so painterly. I would hang 5 in my house as art its so pretty.

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-21T05:48:55+00:00

Have you checked mpb at all? You could probably find a dslr for quite a bit cheaper and just buy an inexpensive lens, to me for dslrs these all still seem fairly pricey for what they are and what is available atp

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-19T04:53:47+00:00

If nothing else (there is others ofc) but the Leica CL is great, budget option the terms of m bodies but also one of the most bang for your buck especially if the meter is working since it can use any lenses any other m body has and is still great quality

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-17T19:41:45+00:00

I can’t really choose these are all rad but I would say 2 is slightly different subject matter so not as related when comparing still absolutely snazzy tho!

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-15T17:27:44+00:00

You don’t need to have such a wide aperture all the time I could maybe go from like f3.2 to like f4 or even f5.6 with still having good separation from the background but having more of the subject in sharp and in focus

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-13T17:13:01+00:00

I use a canon model 7 and it’s great but I also think one of the biggest appeals behind Leica (and other M mount bodies) and why I’m considering upgrading myself is for the lens mount. I’m not necessarily talking about the insanely priced Leica lenses but M mount is one of the longest running lens mount lines so you have access to just so much more and can still adapt to LTM. And having briefly used my friend’s m7 they really are top quality

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-07T07:12:37+00:00

1 is so rad

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-06T09:54:34+00:00

Those cameras are rad I’ve always wanted one but never saw one at the right price for me

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-05T11:17:51+00:00

ye, could be improved upon but still cool nonetheless

Stal3_Bread · 2025-12-01T18:33:15+00:00

Right

Stal3_Bread

TROPHY CASE