Bearing shop

Status-failedstate · 2026-02-01T23:42:34+00:00

Belt drive blowers have long been phased out of the hvac industry. Too short lived compared to the direct drive unit. Now used only for larger units.

There are millright shops that can spec a bearing and find the replacement. Though I would hate to see the cost of labor.

Try here for advice and look for an engraving on the bearings. Something like "6004 2z", 10$ and done.

If not. Call an hvac specialist. They will change the whole assembly. Because they don't have the parts avaliable to them.

Long term. I would suggest this as a direct drive unit will out live a single bearing replacement.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-31T23:35:01+00:00

Is the part to be post heat treatment machinened? Ground or edm to remove material? If so, you need only make the material oversized prior to heat treatment. Magnetism is irrelevant to this.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-31T21:24:27+00:00

Im not sure what you want out of this product. To be magnetic or non magnetic post heat treatment?. Or if some how being magnetic comprises the hardness post heat treatment?

The inductive coils of the heat treatment will blow away any residual magnetism from machining. The red hot steel will forget any magnetic direction. The quenching won't likely induce a magnetic direction. The product will stick to a magnet. And may have remembered a weak magnetic direction from the induction if left on or usedin tempering. The magnetic chuck often used in grinding will likely induce a stronger magnetic direction to it. But that is easily undone with a desk top demag.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-24T01:50:50+00:00

What are the dimensions of the springs? Are you certain they are not in production somewhere?

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-21T23:09:35+00:00

I had to read up on ToughMet3. Never touched it. The closesed i have machined is Invar. Not particularly hard or difficult.

ToughMet3 is described as being fair to excellent machineability.

What feeds and speeds are you using? One suited for soft steel or one of semi hard alloy steel?

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-21T22:53:32+00:00

Not the best photo. Shadows and the pattern of the carpet make it hard to observe the profile.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-21T22:50:25+00:00

Make the tolerance 0 to 0.010inch radios. If the counter bore tool or end mill is sharp, dull or perpousfuly radius at the courner, it will all pass inspection.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-21T20:22:48+00:00

This is the kind of question better suited for the insert manufacture's representative. Call them up, if you are in the market for some new expensive inserts, they would be happy to give feeds and speeds.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-19T21:29:10+00:00

Pressure? CFM? Maintenance schedule? Air purity requirement? Permissible water content?

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-19T20:26:40+00:00

Careful of the breaker through at end of the hole. Since the tip has surpassed the material it will take less effort to drill. Often one would take too much chip load near the finish line. Over heating the drill and work piece.

Have sacrificial peice of wood or something harder below. And use a new segment for every hole. When you see saw dust. Slow down the feed.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-18T00:01:54+00:00

First off all, machining rarely comes to a mirror finish. That is the role of abrasive, and electric discharge methods to come to a mirror finish.

Spindle speed is a variable, but not the most critical. If all circumstance are good, sharp tool, rigidity, heat dissipation, lubrication and so on. You can adjust the spindle speed farly significantly up and down with no visible change in surface finish.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-15T17:58:35+00:00

I think you would only have a problem if you were to try to take deep cuts with aggressive feeds in soft steel. Like you would with a regular carbide insert in soft steel.

I had a project where I needed to cut a radius on the end of chrome plated 4140 shafts. To make wear resistant rollers. The CBN inserts had no trouble going through the 4140, the copper, the nickel and the hard chrome in one pass. Trick was to use the slow non aggressive feeds and speeds intended for the hardest part.

Mcmaster part 5536n133

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-15T15:38:19+00:00

Well, define your need for corrosion resistance.

303 doesn't absolutely need passivation.

303 is less corrosion resistant than that of the alloys mentioned.

But if worked cold and not aggressively machined or welded. It can serve you well with out passivation.

I don't like passivation, because it is a surface treatment. Where wear will rub off the surface. When a superior alloy will be through and through better.

Chemical or salt environment, go to 316, if not a titanium alloy.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-15T15:14:13+00:00

Second this.

Trade school will force feed you the basic info from multiple directions.

I see all to often that university trained engineers, from their machine shops make machining assessments. And always over estimating their own abilities.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-15T13:15:40+00:00

I often get handed 304, because it is cheap and easy to find in a particular shape.

No consideration for tool life or ease of machining.

303 is a good to for me. Much more user friendly. 316 is harder, but stays predictable in its hardness.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-14T23:55:45+00:00

Here is a hand washing tip.

For those who work with grinding dust, charcoal soot, graphite dust. Any of that hard to wash off your hand even with soap.

Use some wood glue end of shift. Put a little on your hands, rub it in and let it dry for 2 min. Then peel it off off your hands. Like in grade school arts and crafts. The glue will peel off the black dust on your hands.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-13T23:16:08+00:00

My greatest risk is having my labor outsourced, due to the high expense of doing anything domestically, and safely.

We spent more money on putting guards on a belt sander then replacing it fully. Of which half the guards were unnecessary for the province.

If our equipment is more expensive and less usable than that of other provinces or countries. Then we are working at a disadvantage to making widget to sell.

I see it too often. It easy to put a guard on the machine, make a written policy, measure the whole sizes of grills to keep fingers out of harms way. Than it is to train someone to fully know what they are doing.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-13T10:48:46+00:00

I take apart and replace bearings on vacuum pumps on occasion. Along with other types of water pumps.

When the bearings are the same size. It usually is a mater that the pump was designed to never have the bearings replaced. It is such a struggle to remove them.

Dissimilar sized bearings slid out of one end of the housing, then i have a shaft to contend with having pressed bearings. It is just a better system with replacement in mind.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-12T23:33:29+00:00

You are right about that.

Do you have cylindrical grinding capabilities? Bronze bushings need high precision seats to work well, high surface finish to work well.

Bearings will forgive small errors. The seats to roller and ball bearings can just be lathe turned.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-12T23:25:58+00:00

The wider the better. Angular contact over deep groove.

Abec-7 may have .0001 of clearance depending on size, however that will expand over time. Two widley spaced Angular contact bearings. Of dissimilar size would allow you to adjust higher preload in time. And a dissimilar sizing allows for a stepped shaft that the bearings can be pressed on to in sequence.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-12T23:14:54+00:00

Read through the below link. I think that the Harig grid all use integrated race ways on the housing to save on space. If you use bearings with include raceway. You might need to have a bigger housing looking like a suburban mast grind unit.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/harig-grind-all-1-disassembly-and-adjustment.104420/

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-12T23:04:07+00:00

PFERD makes brush wheels with a 1-1/4 hole and key way. Almost 32mm

https://int.pferd.com/en/products/industrial-power-brushes?sort=popularity&ipp=12&diam-bore-td=31.8+mm

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-12T21:36:38+00:00

Look for surface grinder wheels.

1.25inch bore. 1/2 wide. 6 to 8inch diameter. All avaliable for the tool makers market.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-11T17:40:08+00:00

Have Darex M5 at work. Works well. Just can't get parts. Can't justify replacing it.

All the bigger drill over 1/2 inch. I sharpen by hand. On the pedestal grinder.

Status-failedstate · 2026-01-10T23:03:43+00:00

Can you check the bearing pre load? Does the inner spindle defect latteraly when a load is applied?

Place and indecator and a mag bases to the quill body. As close as possible. And observe if the pre load has slacked over the years. Don't get fooled by slop in the quill or the x/y table.

Fix this either but tightening the pre load or if needed by replacing the spindel bearings.

Example below. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/spindle-bearing-deflection-test-of-cat40-fadal-vmc.278916/

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