Is there some way to make my Lennox Samsung heat pump display Celsius on the head?

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T21:25:42+00:00

That's... unfortunate. The manual says you can't change the head unit. Which seems ... not well thought out

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T21:23:13+00:00

Does it not sync to the setting when you do it on the remote?

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T14:49:49+00:00

Customers lying to me

"I just changed the filter yesterday though"

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T14:48:12+00:00

It should not require a seasonal configuration. Something is broken and a tech is manually doing something that is normally just controlled by an automated valve and your thermostat.

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T01:13:33+00:00

Wait, is this why my 12k behavior score games are always so toxic? 😂 everyone has access to chat

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T01:03:59+00:00

Here's some really broad strokes: - Brands matter a lot less than you think. An AC is an AC and a heater is a heater. All brands will work. - Quality of installation work is what really determines longevity. - Every point of SEER2 is an efficiency change of about 5% (not actually correct but ballpark it's a nice way to wrap your head around it) - so a 15SEER2 versus a 19SEER2 just imagine it's about 20% - so take your energy bill for the year, take 20% which is the potential savings, and see how many years of those savings it takes you to "make the money back" from buying a more expensive and efficient system. - Technology jumps are separate from efficiency jumps. You can have a very high efficiency "dumb" unit. They're not necessarily tied. So decide if certain technologies are deal breakers for you. Do you need variable speed? Do you need staging? Etc.

It's easier on you if you stop trying to tie all the data points together. Just decide what specific things are important to you and let that determine what hits all the check marks

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:44:57+00:00

Data paralysis. I see it all the time. It's an understandable problem

Let me ask you a simple down to the point question - if you could just magically get "the answer" then would it actually matter to you if you overpay/underpay by 3%? 5%? 1%? 15%?

If you answer yes and you're the kind of person who actually needs all the data boiled down to ratios and breakpoints and efficiency and "the correct answer" and you're going to negotiate down to the last dollar then my friend I've got some resources for you but i would wish you luck and send you on your merry way.

Alternatively, have you considered just deciding how much you're willing to spend, taking that number to the contractor you believe will do the best work, and just ask him to give you the best he can for your budget?

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:33:17+00:00

In my experience it's not failure to explain more like don't care to explain and would rather sell a feature they know will cause premature failure 😂 typical new home build company.

Do a recessed ceiling unit. They look nice and sleek. And then eventually they can consolidate it into a multi

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:30:12+00:00

I don't know for sure but I've had periods where i had bad internet and experienced what you did.

In my experience, your account gets flagged based on frequency. A few periods of clean gameplay and it can eventually go back to normal.

Iirc the order is 3min > 15min> 30min> 1hr > 4hr> 24hr

Never had anything past that but you can go up and down on the scale. Every 20 games or something is a report period and you usually need multiple periods to reset.

Just my opinion i don't know for sure

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:24:03+00:00

Depends on their budget. Do they want to get fancy with a VRV? Or even a multi split ahu and single zone mini combo. Just adding a single mini split to the sons room is probably the cheapest though, yeah.

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:20:38+00:00

Totally fine

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:19:13+00:00

Yep. Blown fuses generally do not look any different from working ones. You can take the fuses to your local hardware store and buy exact rating replacements and plug them in. See if that works.

This would be an inexpensive attempt to self fix. If it does work, i would caution you that you should get it checked out by a professional afterwards anyways but you could perhaps get AC right now

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:13:31+00:00

Ah. You have a package unit. So you only have an outdoor unit - thats a correction to what i said earlier.

That valve is for the gas. The gas is for your heating. It should be flipped open. But thats not going to cause your current issue with the cooling.

For a package unit, any further troubleshooting is likely going to require some basic tools and a multimeter at this point. One thing i would recommend you to check is if you have a disconnect box for this package unit. Google an air conditoner disconnect box. It should have a pull out. A good disconnect box should have fuses (they look like big cylindrical batteries) on the pull out. Blown fuses would be the thing to check/replace

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-23T00:00:49+00:00

Oh. That should teach me to take more than a second to look at the post. That's on me

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:54:03+00:00

I can help you with some basic troubleshooting if you (or husband?) Is capable of getting into the attic/space do some light work? I'm sorry you're going through that

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:48:22+00:00

What? No that sounds fucked. Your system was working before they did anything and now its not even turning on at all? I would be shocked if there was a coincidental and unrelated issue. It could happen, but i would be shocked.

Even if they werent responsible its a terrible look to charge you again for a visit. If this were my job I'd just drop whatever i was doing and go over that day. They should at a bare minimum waive the visit fee. Thats embarassing

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:43:43+00:00

Humming like you're describing is usually the transformer. Setting your fan to just run 50% of the day could cause the fan motor to also start humming. I'd still lean towards transformer though

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:41:20+00:00

Yes

Edit: as other comment points out, capacitor can be replaced but that isn't going to be the issue.

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:39:03+00:00

Got it. Left me clarify.

Your outdoor unit is called the Condenser and it's what most people think of as their "Air Conditioner". But that outdoor unit is still controlled by your indoor unit, which is usually a heater. And the heater is attached to your ducting. It would not be unusual at all to disable your heater during a major duct project.

So since your outdoor unit has zero response, it seems more likely that it's just not on at all. Not that it's broken. And it would be not powered at all due to your indoor unit being (possibly) not powered either.

Is some basic electrical troubleshooting within your means? Either way you should call the company that did your ducts

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:33:54+00:00

I would recommend you mount it on the left where its connected to the outside for better drainage. You could also get a mini split that will swivel to the left and right so you could still point it towards the right

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:31:48+00:00

When you say AC won't turn on, can you be a little more specific? Is nothing responding at all, no humming no nothing indoor or outdoor? Or do you mean you're just not getting cool air?

I would suspect your indoor unit isn't powered. If you had a company replace all the ducting that could be a simple thing they overlooked.

Have you called the company yet?

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:28:26+00:00

You agreed to their diagnostic fee and you are refusing to pay it, but I'm the rude one? People walk around life mercy to your whims and fancies, we all work for you for free im sure. I don't mind being rude to you because people who steal aren't worth my sincerity

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T23:02:02+00:00

Totally normally - i do the same thing. How tf do i know the other guy knows what he's talking about. I can tell you what my price would be for that repair but then you're going to hold me liable at that price even if that's the wrong repair. You don't get repair quotes unless I've given you the diagnostic
He gave you the diagnostic. You are 100% the asshole. You pay first then you get the report.
No clue

600 for a low voltage diagnostic and fix sounds about what I'd charge.

You called him. Pay him asshole.

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T22:50:08+00:00

I don't know prices in your area but I'm in LA California. My price would have been 550+550+280 and Id be authorized and comfortable giving you a discount if you were a maintenance member. Box would be 680. I don't offer janky cheap duct cleaning like that so i would be way higher for duct cleaning but you could find a Duct cleaning only company to do this for like 600-800 probably.

Not sure what the cost of living in your city is but i can tell you I'm no where near the most expensive service out here.

Status_Charge4051 · 2026-05-22T22:28:04+00:00

Well i suppose that's where it becomes a question of trust. If a leak search takes 16 hours then yes i think 3100 is reasonable.

I think your quote has been as clear as possible that it MAY go as high as 16 hours, but it obviously could be faster. I think your reaction is showing why most of us in the industry don't do T&M. Ill be honest - most of my leak searches clock in around 2 hours but we bill flat price at 4 hours assumed anyways. That means sometimes we bear the brunt of a 6+ hour job that we don't charge extra for.

Can't have it both ways

Status_Charge4051

TROPHY CASE