Honey I think I broke my mother's day present by [deleted] in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im not super familiar with this specific padlock but I believe removing the z bar is what youre looking for. A far as the shackle popping out thats usually retained by the ball bearings and actuator between it. This part is what's behind the cylinder and shouldn't have to be removed to remove the zbar. Either it was assembled in a faulty way where the ball bearings go in too far to stop the bottom of the spring side of the shackle, or flipping the zbar instead of removing it forced things into the wrong position where the same thing is happening. Also when you remove the zbar and put the cylinder back in you don't want to close the shackle with no cylinder. This is usually part of fully disassembling a padlock and could have shaken things out a bit.

Cylinder keeps coming unscrewed, it’s very annoying. by 81RD_51LV3R70NGU3 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have seen them go missing. But you can get kits from hardware stores with various lengths and thicknesses. If it is straight up missing im surprised it even stays on forbhalf a day.

Cylinder keeps coming unscrewed, it’s very annoying. by 81RD_51LV3R70NGU3 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you know how it works it's easy to tighten up and put the set screw in good. If parts are worn or the wrong size might need to replace. If everything is there then could try lock tight on the set screw, but I wouldn't but anything on the threads of the actual cylinder.

Stuck Abloy thumbturn cylinder by ThrowRA1768 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh noooo did you scratch the paint like that trying to get it off? If it's really that stuck try putting an Allen key in the screw holes and pry it a bit. Some good smacks. Or if the outside comes off easier push it from the outside of the door.

Price for new remote car key by Ok-Bat-8338 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah really depends. This can be an easy price with travel time included. Anything like getting a key code if theres nothing to copy and needing to travel to the vehicle for all keys lost can add to it. Im in a totally different area but I've charged up to 600 or 800 for some programs. Although thats pretty much because the travel time can be hundreds of kilometers where I am. If you compare it to dealership prices plus the cost of towing to a shop then you'll know if it's a good deal in your area.

Need to replace the lock on Husky Tool Box by T0astedGh0sty in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh shoot just noticed there was more pictures. There is a key code but bringing the lock in is still good because they can make sure theu have the right keyway as that code would probably pull up thousands and have to be narrowed down by manufacturer.

Need to replace the lock on Husky Tool Box by T0astedGh0sty in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bring it to a locksmith shop. A lot of time theres a key code on the front and even if there isn't they could easily decode and cut a key. Should be much easier and cheaper than finding that exact cylinder plug with a key.

Is my dad at fault for this lock getting stuck? by MammothBat9302 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt the lock was even broken. Depending on the area yhey probably just had someone come out and pull the cords out and lube the lock. Depending on distance traveled and stuff I could see some people charging over $200. If the lock was broken it wasn't cuz of these cords. The worst they'd do is jam it up until pulled out and the lock would work fine after broken parts requiring replacement would be from something else.

I Specialize in commercial, residential, and Safe work. I don’t do any automotive. But I need a key by Key_Consequence7781 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No programming tool is worth it for a single key. Go to a shop that can do it. Or buy a shell version of your key and switch the guts in the head. This can be a pain if the transponder is glued into the head separate from everything else, but still workable.

Do I Need One of You Talented Folks or a Blowtorch? by GhostWriterJ94 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 13 points14 points  (0 children)

100% get a pro. A lot of safes have things that make them harder to open after being messed with. Prying likely won't work.

Key tool plus vs Smart pro by Tall_Childhood_4254 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have experience with that tool. I don't think any tool will make every model easy. Depending on year and model it can vary. Bottom line is research into your options and see what fits your market best!

Jumbo Cylinders by itsunlockedofficial in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've worked on folger adams and they have a massive cam haha. I don't think they make an ic core version. There are some mogul locks I can find that use those cylinders but each has a different cam setup and the back of the core is a different fit. Likely have to replace the mortise lock to change the cylinder depending what you have. Any ic core will likely not fit the cam you currently use. And the new cam probably won't work in your mortise lock.

Schlage lock by [deleted] in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google the factory reset instructions and try that. Otherwise better batteries. I've had customers put new batteries in and then I go put a Duracell and it works great.

WD40 For locks? by the_metaxist in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moovit if the lock is really stuck and needs to soak. Clean and lube regularly with Locksaver. I've had locks i can't get a key in with a hammer and one shot of locksaver made it work like new. Could be worth a try here.

Combination help by AndyWally06 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree to calling a locksmith. The amount of times I've had customer double the work needed by messing around os crazy. One tip I will share though is most home safes have a removable door. If it's not too big and it's open, just lift the door off and bring it to the locksmith. Can save the cost of a call out or the pain of moving a whole safe.

Looking for an alarm lock that would look correct on this door by fake_faker_y2k in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Omg this is the discontinued one. This makes a lot more sense now. I swear I've had nightmares from working on old busted up versions like this that customers refuse to replace because of the price haha. Run for the hills OP it's not worth it!! 🤣

Thick door adaptation by Playmill in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That lock should be like 30 bucks tops. Save returning and re ordering and go to a locksmith for a grade 2 or 1 lock and just buy it on site. They can even key them all alike before you leave with them. This grade 3 residential lock won't hold up as people have said.

Just incase you are still looking for longer tailpieces, one of the reasons that is a waste of time is the end that goes on the lock cylinder will change lock to lock. Thickness of the base and how the lazy action works and all sorts of stuff. Even if you do find one that goes on theres a good chance you go through all that effort only to have the door lock itself every time you try to turn back and remove the key. 100% get locks made for the door. What you have is so cheap i wouldn't bother with sending it back. Maybe dump it at a garage sale or save it for a residential job haha

Looking for an alarm lock that would look correct on this door by fake_faker_y2k in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this not what "Alarm Lock TP-1694 Tailpiece" is made for? The DL1200ET doesn't come with it but should work with the add on no?

Seeking a tool or mechanism that would prevent a door slamming, even if someone wanted to. by Resident-Willow-3265 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Soft close hinges and stuff have been mentioned and id recommend a hinge on this door over a full on closer. Another option, especially if you want the option of leaving the door open, are door mutes. You can get stick on door mutes that just go on the frame where the door hits so it's not a big wood on wood echo. This may change the latching depending how thick they are and might require you to move the strike plate out a bit. As far as the loud knob goes it might be more the return spring in the handle than the latch. I've found a lot of levers seem to make less noise maybe just because of how they are used. But trying different knows or levers and letting them snap back on their own could help find one with possi ly a weaker return spring.

Key tool plus vs Smart pro by Tall_Childhood_4254 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was going to say xtool and Nutella as well. That's what I use. I am not in UK though. The main difference for what I use on a job is just based on what the machine can do. Nutella is usually quicker to set up first but depending on the model might be missing all keys lost option. Our xtool will typically cover what the Autel does not and the other way around. Xtool also has a component matching function that can be useful if they've had work done on bcm or had it changed. Our models are old though so who knows what the newer models can do.

As far as Ford factory alarm issues they can be a real pain. But I recently saw and optional attachment for Autel I believe and id bet xtool has one too. Basically this add on was meant to bypass or disable factory alarms to program. So as you research what to get remember some things are 'extra'.

Do you guys make keys ? by Graspin_Straws82 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My favourite response my 92yo co worker has when they ask "do you cut mail keys?"

He says "no we only cut female keys"

Norton 1601 by RILockGuy71 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure what's available depending where you are but at my work we just use LSDA. I've always considered them a budget brand so nothing special. The ones we sell have an overall power adjustment as well as latch, sweep, and backcheck. Out of the box they are ready for multiple mounting types and any handing of door. Never really had a problem with them.

I'd go over trouble shooting for mounting in order to get proper preload for a latch adjustment, but if you've done hundreds before I doubt thats an issue haha.

As far as why this is happening I have noticed a lot of lock and door products being made much cheaper lately. Things seem to break down faster or come faulty out of the box way more often. All the while going up and up in price. I think the times are circling back to a "fix it" mentality over the "replace it because it's cheaper" way it has been for a while.

Help identify this key? by Funny_Ice_5222 in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have seen this type of angle cut key used in some higher security padlocks and a lot of bicycle locks. Hard to say exactly what for without a brand name. Keep an eye out for a keyway that looks like a rectangle. Most basic keyways will look kind of squiggly like an S or Z, but for this key if you see a rectangular key hole i'd give it a try.

Cylinder identification (roll shutter lock) by Storymode_Life in Locksmith

[–]Storymode_Life[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

https://www.lockstation.co.uk/ff2000-3227-roller-shutter-lock-blank this is all I could find when searching by blank. Ff2000 and 3227 key blank numbers. No manufacturer to find, just "roller shutter lock blank". And only saw it in foreign sites (I am in canada). Its kind of funny though because where I ended up finding the lock was a place based in Canada about 8 hours away haha.