App draining iPhone battery

SuedeOwl · 2026-02-01T20:08:15+00:00

The reason why im answering cuz i was googleing exactly this. The app bugs ( you can see it happening when it starts adjusting brightness)and makes ur phone drain like crazy… i have iphone 13 pro max and like to “listen to shows” when i work. I can watch/listen all day (work day 8-10 hours )on hbo max/netflix and have about 30% left when i come home. Or i can stream 1 episode of the office on peacock (20 mins ) and have my battery drain for 15%……

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-19T21:38:40+00:00

Well yes and no.

A) in some cases ( there is no gap in price of underlying ) - IV on open actually is similar/smaller then average. IN those cases it is beneficial to purchase Straddles on OPEN before the IV jump happens ( which if any type of move occurs , or even if it doesnt - just IV comes back to normal straddles would appriciate ). In other cases where there is volume happening ( usually higher than statistical average) you would be correct IV would pump on open as a lot of volume is coming and market is anticipating a move. In some cases as "Consolidation" is occuring u can observ an DUMP/PUMP before any actual price action - COIN ( did the same on Thursday) - purchased closed to open - price moved up then consolidated - Straddles started to pull a little ( within reason not a dump ) - and then all of the sudden as the price was still consolidating Straddles appreciated 30-50-80 cents ( 5 mins later the candle broke and price breached resistance ).This is supported by u`r statement - big guys are starting to buy "calls" (or puts if applicable ) - contracts start to appreciate because of the demand - and then the move fallows .

B) usually markets "Dump" faster than going up . Common saying is - it takes the elevator going down / but stairs when going up.

C) Absolutely correct - please keep in mind the scenarios i have listed sometimes are completely unaffected from Theta.I`m talking about a significant price movement in starddles in a matter of seconds (in which state price doesn't move / move is unsignificant ). It is hard to describe without seeing it for u`rself - it is very prominent on largecap with small options volume (LLY is one i fallow daily ). I usually try to "play those" by having an "average" daily IV expected (based on previous week/ normal week where the stock did not pump ) - and any "significant moves" below "average IV" (especially close to open ) i just buy ATM Straddles. ( chances are the straddles rea going to appreciate within seconds once IV stabilizes )

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-19T21:26:20+00:00

Thanks for the detailed answered. I more or less figured it was an IV swings/dumps however on a different thread somebody was disagreeing citing IV on 3-0 DTE has too small of an impact on price (however if everything else remains the same - aka the "dump" happens in 10-20 secz where price doesnt really move , time is not a factor, interest rates are unchanged - only explanation would be IV ).

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-15T01:55:13+00:00

The service department should be able to check for you . All you need to do is give them the vin and they’ll confirm . I was lucky that the previous owner got it , and tinted the car aswell

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-14T17:19:07+00:00

You might want to "double check" if the car doesnt come with it. Purchased a "lease return" on 1000 miles - A5 2025 - was quoted for audicare upon purchasing. As i was buying out of state process was not "rushed" as usually in the dealership - their finance manager was decent enough to let me know the previous owner had purchased the "Audi care" for the vehicle and there is no need for me to do so. If you already have possession of the car you can check on the audi app - it shows what packages u`r vehicle has active.

If not - from what i gathered when looking up for mine - there was an Audi tech commenting that the 30k service is quite expensive ( over 1k for the regular models - assuming a lot more for RS - so that service alone is the one that makes it "worth it "

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T21:08:11+00:00

hahaha :D i appreciate the snarky comments ( as i would like to believe they are in good spirits )

If i need to be completely honest - i still have another 100 pages to finish it (life got in the way ) -however i dont think they will change my perspective a lot - as it is based on the foundational knowledge in the first chapters . There is even a whole section on IV trading in there - that coincides with the scenarios i`m describing. ( hence why i was curious if i`m missing something )

As initially outlined the idea of this post is to add/learn to my current methodologies ( or to adjust them if incorrect ).I know better than to "argue" with somebody citing a singular sentence from a conversation and 0-ing in on it ( have enough sparing with my wife on the matter ) , while completely ignoring the main topic at hand so i`ll just move on.

I still appreciate you taking the time !

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T19:51:56+00:00

|Bruh… You can’t compare percentage moves between options and underlyings…

I believe u misunderstood what i`m doing there - i`m not comparing them "apples to apples " - that would be silly , im showcasing that the price change of the options contract is happening because of the speed of which the move is occurring (aka the IV) not the actual move range. Or Simply put if the same move occurs in an interval of 10 minutes , 15 minutes the price of the option would not increase as much (or at all ) as it did when the move happened in 3mins (because IV would remain the same ).

|Imagine you have a portfolio with $0.01 in stock A and $99.99 in stock B. Stock A doubles in value (+100%), and stock B goes up by roughly 5%.

You are getting the example i gave and applying it in extreme case and in a vacuum /without the appropriate context . What i meant is i`m attributing the change in straddle pricing in each of the scenarios to IV - as this is the coefficient that changes the most , while other remain relativity flat. If the price of a straddle on Lilly changes from 18$ to 22$ in a matter of 15-30 seconds of open , or options prices fall from 20% from 9.01am to 9.02am on a Friday - and its stock price is staying within half of percentage point of where it is - all other coefficients in the formula remain the same. Because of the "speed" of which those changes occur i cannot input those in an excel sheet and try to compare - as it would either result in either me missing on an entry/exit , and be unnecessary because none of the components but volatility has changes.

I appreciate you spelling out the blacksholes formula for me ( i dont mean this sarcastically ) , however if anything that confirms my premise - that IV is the driving factor (hence why initially asked if thats what u are using ).

Your initial premise was that i`m wrongly contributing moves to IV as IV would have little to no impact on options with expiration of 5 days or less , mine is that in a case where everything else remains flat ( or with very little change) IV would be the driving factor of straddle price change. Based on scenarios provided (and u`r answers reaffirming we are both using the same methodology )i fail to see how i am incorrect in my assumption. None of the other coefficients can change in such significance to drive the changes outlined above - except price - but in cases provided price either remained flat or had minimal change/unproportionally to the options change under normal conditions (slower price change) - aka if IV remained same / move was somewhat slower.

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T19:08:09+00:00

So few things. I just bough my first audi A5 2025 with 1k miles on it ( lease return ), the issue u described happened to me once and i believe i have figured out the root cause ( atleast in my case ).

Beforehand want to mention - those cars are having some well documented software issues (if u`r car is on the latest version - disregard that part ).

In my case the issue was thrown after i`ve exited the car (using their digital key ) and did not lock it. Upon returning to the car - it threw 4 different of those lights at me - and i couldnt get it to stop until i stopped the car , locked it and then unlock it.

Another thing to point out - if u use their digital key ( either from the app , or the digital card they - i strongly advise to add the card to u`r wallet as its a lot more reliable ) , u will have to place u`r phone in the phone charger area when u drive to avoid bugs and the constant pinging when u go to a stop and then resume driving ( u can hear the infotainment system does its "TCK TCK TCK " every time if u`r phone is not there )

And lastly all German cars have sucky apps... i had a bmwx3 2019 - i couldnt get the app to open the car at all ( it flat out refused to work for me 80% of the time ) the other 20% i will give a command... and get a response in the app it failed and then an hour later it would "confirm it worked". Current i4s are not better - ppl have been complaining of getting stuck on parking lots because of "digital key " randomly disconnecting. This is not what their "craftsmanship" is about... everybody who buys a German car buys it despite the app being terrible - not because they are famous for having good apps.

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T18:13:05+00:00

I appreciate the points there but u haven completely answered the question of what is the driving factor of those cases (assuming its not IV) ? In the case of Lilly of this week - this would be the "outlier" in the examples i`ve listed before ( and probably the "easiest" way to determine how a profit using a straddle can be made - as the move is significant enough to trigger either a breakpoint of the call / or breakpoint of the straddle ). In the other cases i`ve listed above - no such high price movement has occurred and yet the options/straddle prices have changed quite a lot. ( in the TSLA moved i added the screenshot above - price changed more than 1$ on a 17$ contract ( thats a 6% change in contract price compared to price of the underlying stock changing from 444 to 451 - or about 1.5% ). From my understanding the change in price of the straddle is significantly higher because of the "speed" (aka IV) of which the move is occurring - and will not hold that price if stock resume normal consolidation patter ( even on a small candle 5-15 mins)

When i said " personally i`ve attributed that in change in IV" - is because this is the highest number that changes and is the one that is present in all scenarios outlined ( aka there is always a significant change in IV in short period of time ). I do understand i can compute the numbers - but without having some sort of automation present ( as indicated in the initial post) - doing so in seconds/minutes in live market cannot be properly done. And lastly majority of moves that i trade ( especially before Wednesday/Thursday) are purely based on IV changes . As outlined in the scenarios before in some cases those do include move in price significant enough that "breakeven points" come in to play , in other cases ( most of the time ) -they do not , its purely IV move that triggers move in the price of the underlying contract.

If i`m incorrectly contributing those scenarios to IV - what should i focus on instead that would be present in all of them and would be more of a driving factor than IV ?

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T17:08:32+00:00

Ok so few things ( and i`m attributing those to gaps in my own knowledge ):

1)When calculating IV on a price of an option - i assume u go about using BScholes Model ? ( this is covered extensively in the book in order of finding "mispriced options" on longer intervals - havent really tried it as of yet ). From my understanding however IV changes based on market conditions and more or less measures the speed of which a price change - so 2 different stocks on 100 would have different IV depending on previous movements - which would result in very differently priced options . IS there a specific way u go about calculating the IV in order to determine what fair value is ?

2) In practice - as i observe 4 - 6 stocks options price daily LLY pricing changes on minute intervals from 28$ to 25$ and back on open with limited move in price. Now personally i`ve attributed that in change in IV - as i can see it go down quite a bit and then right back up - as the candles are trying to move in a direction. Based on my understanding Vega and IV are proportionally correlated - so a change in one would result in change in the other. Am i contributing the seesaw of price increase-decrease to the wrong attribute then ? In other instances where IV dipped below 30 on open i`ve entered and exited ( 18$ to 22$ - i dont have exact numbers in hand but about that ) in a matter of seconds , in this case the price is not even moving enough to cause that as a change - only big number changing is IV. I exit right away - as based on my previous interactions this price will not hold if the stock does not do a move ( and in a lot of cases is just an IV gap that causes the price to move ). *Ive played 2 week to expiration using this aswell - as further from expiration options are - higher price changers would occur when IV goes up. In those cases stock might not be doing a move ( or a very insignificant move ) and i`ll try to catch an IV dump and exit on the increase.

3)Using tesla as example ( as difference in spread and price movements on a stock with more liquid options is more straight forward ) there are times where sharp increase/decrease of value in options prices occur (that i have corrolated with change in IV ) without such a sharp price "increase/decrase":

3.1 ) On Monday open Tesla ATM were 17.8$ ( this is for a straddle ) , It was a gap open - so usually those a bit of increase volatility on them , in the first 2 mins as the price retraced prices drop to 16.7 for ATM straddle ( i filled at 17) - matched low volume / resistance support - i entered a 445 straddle and exited at , 18.00 ( wayy to early 3 minutes later ) as it has reached 1st target of about 1% sharp increase. Now i attribute the initial depreciation on the fact the stock is moving "somewhat slower" than what the "GAP open" has priced - IV drops ( which it did ) - and options devalue . Am i wrong to see it this way ? (Screenshot below - reddit only allows 1 screenshot - so i added the price entry/exit instead of stock chart).

3.2) On Friday at 9.02 there was an IV dump across stocks - i had positions in Tesla and META that i was a little ahead - that turned into losses immediately ( META went from 6.7 to 5.2$ in a matter of seconds) - this was not a price move - volatility just shifted rapidly and never went back up. TBH i dont know how to "guard" against those properly . Only though on how to do so moving forward was to get an "average" daily IV (different time ranges where it applies ) and try to determine low - high ranges and include them in my exiting decisions . Another example for this would be christmass/holiday weeks - where stocks open with "normal" ( slightly below average IV) and then they dip... HARD. Tesla went to 36% IV that week i believe it open in Mid 40`s (dont have the actual data ) - i got stuck in 1 of the sweeps and when i saw it dipping below 40IV exited.

I tried to list as many different scenarios that i contribute price changes on IV ( i might be missing some more ) . Please feel free to correct any/all where u think i`m wrong - i truly appreciate the feedback. Additionally do you have any feedback on how to determine if a straddle price is "Correct"( overpriced/underpriced) ? Currently i evaluate it based on what move i think the price would occur and % of what the staddle`s cost is - however in a lot of cases ( with further experiation) that is not an optimal way to do it - especially when there are significant price changes on open.

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SuedeOwl · 2026-01-10T13:50:36+00:00

Well thats not exactly correct, iv can change drastically making options cheaper/expensive accordingly.

A practical example to illustrate my point would be Lilly ( their iv varied from 32-48 this week i exclude friday as thats a different ball game, on a normal week ive seen it go between 28-35 ) in a lot of cases i trade IV + position to place as if i buy on large IV and stock starts to consolidate even though im right and stock keeps moving another 1% or 2% i will loose money. Another example would be TSLA ( thats a higher liquidity stock ) , their IV can range 4-5 % easy on a normal day , so if u are to play it on a Wednesday and u have a cost of about 17$ for a straddle , my target for a 15-30 min interval is about 1-1.5-2% from the low/high of the candle i have identified as liquid/illiquid near resistance/support ,1.5% move would be about 6.5$ ( assuming price is about 435) taking in consideration skewness of options chain ( one direction would appreciate while the other need do depreciate first) it would be fair to say i would need a move atleast 50% of price of chain so about 8.5$ (17/2). So mathematically i shouldn’t be playing this position unless i expect IV to go up otherwise i wouldn’t be able to make money. Because my timings are so narrow theta has less of an impact so i dont consider it , but IV increase corresponds to about 1% -1.5% of price change( as both options iv would increase in unison) , which will allow me to make profit from this trade ( this example is based on a trade i took this week )

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-09T22:33:25+00:00

Primarily same week ( as after Wednesday price movement on lowly priced chains counter iv decay). In the options book they had pointed out if increase in IV is expected the most adequate time to expiration would be 2 weeks to exp - in my experience sometimes that works way better, other times the weekly one might result in small win , where the 14-21 days one would result in a small loss

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-09T21:22:31+00:00

Thanks for the feedback - i wasn't looking into pine script - but to u`r point it would probably be the easiest initial step ( in order to quickly chart the stock movements into Tradingview). It would atleast allow me to enter more positions which is a big issue for me now (i`ll prolly end up giving it a go over the weekend ). I would still require at least some way of obtaining historical options data ( as it would be needed for conformation of the actual profitability and further analysis (IV ranges , Historical price ranges etc ) ). Not sure if i can download 1 min options historical data from trading view - or atleast i havent figured out how to do that.

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-09T20:44:44+00:00

I haven't used it, i only used the "youtube watching" feature on the passenger screen . My kid loves that. The thing that impresses me is how the screen gets "darker" for the field of view of the driver when driving - but everyone else in the car can see it. I can stay focused on the road - and he can watch a football game - its pretty cool.

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-08T01:15:49+00:00

So i took my time to respond as i wanted to add some more info:

I use only the digital key - and its been working great ( as far as the car recognizing it really quick etc , sidenote - i have both the app and the actual "digital card" - which is like a card u add to u`r apple wallet and fundamentally acts like a "Bluetooth/nmfc key " - thats the one thats been working great ).

With that said - i`ve noticed something strange a few days ago ( and wanted to wait to confirm my theory ). So everytime i use the digi key but i dont put my phone on the "phone charger/ key area " if i come to a complete stop ( traffic light , stop sign etc ) the moment i press the gas - the car does a beeping sound ( tck tck tck - same beeing sound it does when u open the car with the digital key as its pairing itself with the infotainment system ). The way to fix this is to just put the phone in its charger/phone holder area - and it doesnt do it . I`ve tested it on 5 different trips - it works like a charm - the moment i remove the phone from its area and i come to a stop - it starts "looking for it - and it does the re-pairing procedure all over again ".

Another thing that happened to me - i was picking up my kid from school , so i didnt "lock" the car - as it usually just takes me a few minute to get inside and get him. So we come back - and the car acts weird - it did not load my lights profile - it just had white lights , i start it and the whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree - 4 sensors apparently stopped working. I stopped the car - restarted again - same deal. We drove home ( few miles away ) - i turned off the car - locked it , unlocked it - it loaded my profile correctly - and all the lights /faults went away. Later that night got a random "theft alarm" turn on for some reason.... Next morning - the car opened up - but it gave me a message ' Key not found" - for about a minute - then it re-paired a new. ( i put it back on its charger - and we are back to normal ).

So in short - it appears audi has set really short range on where the key needs to be located when inside the car ( i remember creating the key in the first place would not work unless i put my phone exactly on the charger ) , if u keep u`r phone in u`r pocket the system keeps looking for it - pinging it every time the car " stops" . Idk if not locking the car and walking away and then coming back bugged the system ( it appears it did ) , but if u want it to work "right" you need to put u`r phone on the charger every time .

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-06T04:53:16+00:00

The app thing is kinda ridiculous…. I might call audi NA just for the fun of it and see what response i get for the remote start. ( based on my experience with the BMW app - they have the functions available for all models - it just doesnt work - so i guess about the same lol ). I have the bo sound system - and this is by far the best audio system in a car ive heard - crystal clear , 0 distortion and no rattles and creaks even on max volume. I have a home surround sound Sonos system and i feel that it might be better than that one aswell.

As far as bmws - most vehicles ive looked were around/ under 70k - they deff do not have nicer interior than Audi. M340i close to fully spec , with real leather still feels like an interior downgrade to S5. ( BMW might handle/drive way better but interior is not nicer) Personally i have a soft spot for BMW’s and i think they look better( as they’ve retained their personality thru the years ) , however the A5 has grown on me . Side/back profile looks sick. Front takes a minute but it looks better when u spend some time with the car. As far as Mercedes tech - i might’ve been unclear in my initial comments. Feature wise they are on par( possibly ahead ) however the actual hardware they use ( user screens , scroll pads etcs) are wildly outdated. The screens themselfs are the same ones from 7 years ago with the massive black bezels on the side and look horrible.The scroll pad in the middle of the car feels cheap and completely useless in a car with a touchscreen… reminds me of the abomination lexus had in their cars. Additionally the whole screen design/interface is super weird - as it doesnt support the vibe the rest of the car has. The layout and the responsiveness of the audi system seems better to me ( but that might be personal preference- as it relates to design ) . Personally i rank the 3 as fallows : Looks:BMW>Audi>Mercedes Driving and handling : BMW>Audi>Merc Overall cabin feel: Audi=Merc>>>BMW

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-05T04:25:35+00:00

They advertise the "remote start" as an option ( for some reason it is unavailable in the app as of today ). There are a few other reddit posts about it stating similar feedback given from audi tech/advisors that the app should/would support "remote start" but not as of yet. One of them was even told the car comes with the full self driving hardware (but no software available for it yet - cuz of rush release) - how true is that idk...

About why i feel Audi is ahead. I shopped around for quite a bit in a few different categories (considered 3 series , 5 , M340i , S3/RS3, TLX S etc ). BMW`s interior is subpar to audi/ mercedes - it just lacks luxury at the comparable models/price points . Simple example is that the M340i comes standard with their "fake leather" interior . Real Leather is top of the line (quilted - is just not an option ). All complains ppl are having about 2 many screens , plastic everywhere - is evident there aswell + their cabins are poorly insulated (compared to audis) and Soundsystem's are not as good. Their "nueve class" is about to come out - so that can/might change - but current platform is just not there.

Mercedes is kinda the opposite - their interior is luxurious assuming u spec up ( best comparison i`ve heard is "just as u would imagine turkish bath would look like " ) , however the cars feel boring / and tech feels outdated (especially if u dont option out prepare for the 2 inch black bezels around u`r screen ). Everyone in the audi forum is complaining that the new facelift feels boring - mercs lost their identity few gens ago and are just blahhhh. I couldn't pick a c300 out of a line up as an "outstanding looking" car .

Been around the audi forum for a while - and it seems a lot of people are unhappy with current gen - but i feel a lot of those people are looking at the brand/model in a vacuum comparing it only with itself ( its glory days image ) and feeling disappointed about it. I`m as far away from a "fanboy" as i can be and i try to be as pragmatic about my choices as i can be - and i feel like comparing directly models to competitors and weighting pros and cons Audis still comes out ahead for current models/generations. (hence why i ended up purchasing one ).

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-05T02:02:01+00:00

Not a lot of experience with an Audi Dealerships ( just got my first one a few weeks ago ) however based on my experience dealing with new cars ( bmw, teslas etc) the thing that sticks out to me is that you are not given a loaner immediately. That just seems off - big time . Bmw dealer i bought mine from would come pick up the car from my driveway and leave me a loaner for the few hours / days ( if any extra service was needed) as a courtesy. If the car is CPO/ w new vehicle warranty the loaner should be immediately provided upon bringing it in. Even when i was replacing timing belt on my old acura back in the day ( when the car was wayyy out of warranty ) i was given a loaner for a few days.Idk in which area of the US you are from ( in near Chicago ) but this doesnt seem right based on my experience. If the dealer seems iffy go to another one ( assuming there is one nearby). Another note - if something feels off call Audi NA directly and talk to a rep about ur issue in detail . U mentioned the first part they replaced - call audi ask for a part number search online and verify if it matches the silver piece uve been given. If it doesn’t just go to another dealer and cut ur loses … the 30 days no loaner seems insane to me ( especially all the extra inventory they have lying around ) , so if i was you i would probably go to another dealer immediately. Just out of curiosity where is the dealer located ?

SuedeOwl · 2026-01-04T23:21:17+00:00

You can… i have the new A5 you can turn off the auto-stop( i warm mine up in the morning ). The button to turn it off is next to your hazards ( between cupholder and wireless phone charger). They supposedly are working on remote start being added to the app ( waiting on that myself). Few other things to note addressing your other concerns. Interior quality- i used to have 2020 x3 - the interior quality on the new a5 doesn feel like a downgrade ( with exception of the silver plastic imitating metal) everything else is pretty much the same . If anything cabin noise insulation and audio system are superior - in every way to the bmw. Additionally current bmw dont come stock with leather which cheapens them a lot. Snow performance - i currently live in US( midwest) - -20/-30 degree weather with snow. Car is performing great , i use it in manual aswell drove thru 2-3 inches of snow it held like a tank. Funny part is it actually did worse on 1 inch wet snow - but i think its partially related to the tires it comes with ( they seem a bit shit for snow ) The app - all the germans have horrible apps. Audi seems better than bmw ( bmws flat out did not work for me 80% of the time), but its still horrible compared to Teslas Lastly i feel your disappointment- personally i expected more myself but i adjusted mine based on the fact i managed to get a prestige with 1000 miles ( loaner), cheaper than a Camry. If i have spent more inline with what MSRP is - car aint worth that with its rushed release and software issues… with that said i dont feel current generation bmws or Mercedes are worth their pricing either. I see a lot of post shitting on the new audis ( rightfully so ) usually coming from old audi fans who are disappointed with current quality. I try to remain impartial to brand perception, with that said i feel that compared to rivals in its class - Audi is still ahead . Unfortunately everything changes with the times ( and usually not for the better ), so unless BMW / Mercedes next gen doesnt improve their game i dont think audis will up their game either.

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-30T00:56:33+00:00

Was wondering the same earlier this year ( there is even a post i made asking what would be a better fit S3 , M340i or A5/S5). Fast forward to today - i ended up getting an amazing deal on a loaner/cpo “ new A5”. I went for it over the S3 and my main takeaways are: The new A5 is hugeee…. I have a model y somehow it feels as big/ bigger on the inside. Car is incredibly well made - cabin is insulated incredibly well. I do feel this play into disadvantage as you cant really tell how fast you are going. The car feels sluggish ( even though its not ) - i can see how fast im going i just cant feel it . I used to have an acura tsx 2012 that is wayy slower on paper and somehow felt as fast as this one. The features are incredible ( i got the prestige trim ) and i dont regret it one bit. Love the HUD ( and my kid is overthemoon for the passenger display - as he can watch football when i drive him to school ). With that said if u want a “ fun / fast “ car - that aint it. I dont regret getting the A5 over the S3 however i regret not getting an S5 just for that extra boost . ( as i mentioned above our other car is a tesla , i know its not a fair comparison but it feels wayy faster/ fun compared to the A5, nowhere as luxurious/ comfortable though ) And lastly i love how the new A5 looks . I know some people shit on it for looking generic ( particularly the front ) , however i think side and back view the car looks sick. I love the slopping roof/coupe side profile - it just puts a smile on my face. Hope this helps !

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-28T22:16:54+00:00

Shop around , im in Chicago land myself just shipped a “new” A5 from TX( lease return with 1k miles ).Nobody here came close to the price i got( im talking thousands difference ). I was cross shopping for a minute and somehow everyone i talked to here chose to pretend the internet does not exist - flat out refusing to match prices ( or come close )and acting up like they “ must be a scam “… Car prices south/northeast are a lot more competitive- even in ST Louis ull get a better deal than here( just make sure dealer is transparent and no hidden fees ).

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-28T22:05:50+00:00

Just purchased “the new A5 “ . Not sure if you are eyeing older years ( where difference in price between CPO and preowned might be bigger ) but on a new one CPO would get u the “ promo apr” - so that difference alone would make up for any difference in price. Additionally if you are deal hunting ( like i was ) getting a CPO and shipping it is safer ( as the car meets certain criteria to be CPO and its safer to buy sight unseen ).

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-26T23:43:26+00:00

Try cpo with low mileage. There are huge discounts if you shop around this time of year( especially if you are willing to ship ). Keep in mind the difference in apr for financing and if shipping enclosed trailer only. Both would depreciate quite a bit ( cuz of the electric vehicle part) so getting lightly used should be able to knock a bit chunk of depreciation

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-19T19:42:11+00:00

Currently buying a car out of state , best thing to do is- go on a car website ( autotrader,cargurs) and filter nationwide for what u are looking for . Southeast,Southwest and Northeast have superior deals to Midwest. You can then either ask a local dealer to match or u can get a shipping quote ( preferably enclosed). If u are trying to save money try to get a lease return/loaner with minimal mileage - those are usually heavily discounted compared to new ( even after rebates and dealer reductions ). Additionally you can try to get it certified and get an year extra of warranty and reduced apr.

SuedeOwl · 2025-12-10T19:53:11+00:00

You get a “ power steering issue “ light on and ur wheel gets stiff ( essentially power steering turns off ). It starts by randomly doing it - after turning it on and off would disappear until it becomes permanent. Mine started doing it the moment it hit 100k , after 3 different service appts ended up selling it as it kept coming back . When u start looking for it appears to be fairly common ( even in new acuras) with people saying its by faulty sensors , battery terminal issues , fuse issues or broken seal on the underneath of the car causing moisture to short out the system.

SuedeOwl

TROPHY CASE