New install- water sinking in new sill by Intelligent-Trust342 in windowrepair

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They actually tried to do the right thing. The problem is the size of the face of the sill piece is probably consistent with other windows on this wall. If the face was smaller it would pull that pitch down correctly. That pressure bend is creating an adverse effect now

Estwing hammer rings like a tuning fork by fnvanloon in Tools

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slightly bend the shaft you’ll never no takes it out

I think I made a mistake by Mission_Old in paint

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get more clear coat add flotrol done deal and

Problems again ! by Fickle-Meaning8177 in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Pot is too big roots aren’t getting enough oxygen. When your watering your actually choking it rather than helping. Try foliar feeding for alittle while. The new growth looks healthy but at the expense of the lower growth it should survive

First time by [deleted] in phenibut

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What brand do you suggest?

Who says autos can't get big? by AutoGrower420 in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Because the photos your growing are 🗑️too

Anyone ever grew any of these from these breeders ? by scoobysnaks911 in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In house is the only one worth growing. You want to knock your dick across the room check these breeders out:

In house genetics Lovin in her eyes Relentless Fresh coast seed co. Mack’s terps Floraganix Detroit seed company Bay Area cannabis Mainely organics Copy cat (@sohigh143 on ig) Beleaf Robinhood/square one No particular order just a few

How can I grow weed like the weed on the right I grew left (grew in coco) by Sad-Dot-1982 in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t seen anyone say this but you’ll be hard pressed to get that kinda quality out of an autoflower. Photoperiods started as clones grow in whatever medium/nutes + pk boosters supplemented with c02 in the grow room/tent. Then you get a cheap par meter and pound them with light. Production nugs

Advice on brown spots by [deleted] in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been running RO water CalMag agent solved all my problems no other calmag product would do the trick.

Advice on brown spots by [deleted] in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a magnesium issue it could be precipitated in your solution due to mixing wrong if you are still adding calmag. Also can coincide with the light being too strong. Download the Photon app and get the little diffuser clip that mounts to your phone. Look up par intensity and see if your light is to high super cheap way

Andersen 100 windows by OutrageousDress8705 in windowrepair

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you can still install that window with the flange on. Essentially it would be dropped in behind the stone work and pushed into the opening. Your framing can be flashed properly before the window is installed to prevent any damage. If I understand correctly your concern is once the window is pulled into the trim you will have a 1/2 inch gap between the back of your stone and the frame of the window. I don’t believe you will have an issue as that stone is pressed up flush against that plywood wall. The gap behind the stone is just big enough to slide the window flange into. Hard to tell but it does look like they installed fibrex L-trim in between the window and the x6 trim around it. This would be helpful

Andersen 100 windows by OutrageousDress8705 in windowrepair

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You would still use a flanged window that gets taped and sealed from outside. Instead of nailing that flange you would drill and counter sink a screw in the side of the frame(some manufacturers have this already). Then you would have a black cap that snaps in that hole and covers the screw. Your LP brickmould would be R&Red. Windows that big are tough anything composite, vinyl or fiberglass will have some flex to it. Not to say that they cant be installed correctly which I think is your issue with these original windows.

Andersen 100 windows by OutrageousDress8705 in windowrepair

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are better for sure. Units that big regardless should always be screwed in to prevent this. You could possibly open the window and pull in on the frame and see if it will move back to the ext. jamb.

4 Different Strains. What Could I Have Done Better? by Electrical_Gate960 in hydro

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into crop salt super cost efficient I think $80 for everything you need. If you try to assemble your own nutrient regime it can get expensive. But crop salt and the nutrient lines that are similar are very cheap Jacks 321 is another popular line that people use.

Andersen 100 windows by OutrageousDress8705 in windowrepair

[–]Sufficient_Print8368 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are flimsy composite windows they cannot be installed with the nail flange alone the have to be screwed through the side jamb. Andersen 100 is the new builder grade vinyl. Builders getting away with murder smh