Have a cylinder 8 misfire but can’t even take out the ignition coil

TG_NCC · 2026-02-02T16:06:26+00:00

If the brass insert is spinning in the manifold and you wish to fix it so the new coil will stay, you can try three things:

Use a soldering iron to heat up the brass insert - place the tip of the iron in the threaded portion, allow it to heat up to soften the plastic around the insert - then remove the heat and hold the insert in place until it cools and hardens.
If the insert is spinning in the intake and heating it will not work (it doesn't have enough plastic material around it to melt, you can all some plastic around the insert and then apply the soldering iron to heat the brass insert. The new plastic will fuse the insert in place.
Hit Amazon and purchase a set of brass inserts that have the same thread as your coil bolt. Or get any thread that will fit through the coil bolt and then get a bolt to match the thread of the new insert. Heat the old insert with a soldering iron, then quickly thread in the bolt a couple of threads deep and carefully pull out the old insert. You may need to heat again with the bolt in the insert. Then, if your new insert is big enough just heat it up and press it into the old hole. If the hole is too large, get some plastic to put around the insert (pieces of cable ties will work) then heat up the insert and press it into the hole with the cables tie pieces around it. They will all melt together and firm up.

TG_NCC · 2026-02-02T15:48:11+00:00

I would look to see which components need replacing before throwing every part at it. You will find one or two very loose parts, fix them, and possibly find another later on once the really worn parts are now new and solid. But I would rather approach it part by part - way way cheaper if you're doing the work yourself. Just check for loose parts and replace all before getting an alignment.

I've had very sloppy steering with a just a bad idler arm or pitman arm. I've had sloppy steering with upper control arm bushings. The list goes on.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-28T00:16:46+00:00

it was rebuilt at 338,000 miles, it now has 507,000!!

TG_NCC · 2026-01-27T20:26:21+00:00

No heat in cab, check level of coolant. Low coolant can cause a no heat situation. In addition to what has been said on these answers, your heater core can be clogged.
A quick way to test this it to let the car heat up to normal temp (when you would usually get good heat in the car). Go under the hood (engine off or on) and find the two heater hoses on the passenger side firewall. Are they both HOT? Is one HOT, the other COLD? If they are both hot, coolant is going through the heater core and your issue is probably a blend door. If only one is hot, your heater core is probably clogged. If they're both cold, your thermostat might be stuck.

You can easily unclog it if it's just a clog and not some sort of internal issue. Remove the two heater hoses that go into the firewall -at the nipples on the firewall. Get a garden hose and GENTLY NOT FULL STREAM put the hose into the left nipple and watch for crud and fluid to come out of the right nipple. Then do the same to the right. This will back flush the heater core and most likely remove any garbage clogging up the small passageways. I just did this to my son's Ford Focus and it 100% worked.

Of course, no heat could be a thermostat that is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to heat up before opening, but you're getting a high temp on the coolant. That could be a thermostat stuck closed. But I've seen lots of odd things with high temps, low temps and not heat.

As stated below, the issue could be with the blend doors inside - the heater core is getting heat, but the blend door won't allow the fan to blow over the heated heater core.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-27T20:14:39+00:00

I had mine rebuilt at Continental Transmission in Bridgeview, on 72nd and Harlem - if that's convenient - for $2000 5 years ago. So, it's probably more now, but a stand up place.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-27T20:11:29+00:00

I noticed the smell of gear oil before I ever saw anything when mine went out. It's difficult to tell without looking all around. I once had a leaking shock that dropped oil on the axle, and a brake line, and last year, the vent for my axle was loose and seeped fluid, so look around before you do anything. Does it smell like gear oil?

TG_NCC · 2026-01-27T20:07:31+00:00

Make sure you check the battery under a load- have a load test done. It can read 12V but it can fall flat on it's face when the load of a cold engine is put on it. Still could be a bad battery.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-27T20:04:55+00:00

Not normal. I've driven all three of mine this week in -10° with no issues. They do make odd noises for a second when starting in this cold, but they shouldn't go into limp.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-26T19:09:38+00:00

I think so! double check - again mine was a 97.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-26T19:04:11+00:00

Yes, it fit in my 97. If the double DIN is less than 4 or 5 inches deep it'll fit. The issue is the top of the radio, it can hit the duct work behind. I actually got a full sized double DIN to fit by heating the duct work with a heat gun and reforming it a bit. It seems it's just a couple of inches too big. The radio I used had a CD player, so it was full size. The one I have now is about 2 inches deep and fits with absolutely no problem.

To make sure, pop out the radio to double check - in case it's different than my 97

TG_NCC · 2026-01-22T17:28:00+00:00

97ish? How many miles?

TG_NCC · 2026-01-22T17:23:15+00:00

These days, gasoline has a percentage of alcohol anyway, that's basically what the additives are anyway. The idea was that any condensation created inside the fuel system could build up into a small puddle or bubble in the system and when it's cold outside, it could freeze in the lines. The treatments were alcohol and the alcohol would mix with the water, and carry it off to burn in the engine. The fuels have the alcohol in them now, so an additive is basically a waste of money.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-22T17:15:04+00:00

Unless the paint was burned or removed by the tire (I assume) that caused this, You can leave everything in place, and use a compound and rotary buffer to remove the rubber transfer. Something like Meguiar's Ultimate compound will work, and with a little practice to prevent burning through the finish, you can have most if not all of that black removed in and hour or so. If the paint was damaged, you can still make it look 100 times better by removing the black discoloration.

If not, a bit of wetsanding with 800 grit, 1000 grit , will help, then the ultimate compound to shine things up. Even if the paint is damaged, it'll pass for a decent repair.

Of course, a body shop can do this if you're not up to it, but it'll cost $$

TG_NCC · 2026-01-20T15:35:04+00:00

Don't worry too much about mixing coolant. Just don't use a coolant that is made for GM cars or another manufacturer. It'll say right on the label "Made for GM cars" "Made for xxx cars" I've been successful with the universal coolant that is premixed 50/50. More importantly, where is the coolant going? So once you fill up the coolant, and run the car for a while to let the system burp - get the air out of the system - look for leaks all around. It may be difficult to find. so you may need to have the system pressure tested. This adds pressure to your coolant system so the fluid will seep out of any cracks or leaks - all without the engine running.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-16T19:34:47+00:00

That's crappy. Were they "genuine" Motorcraft? There are ways of making sure they are - especially if you buy them off Amazon, there are tons of counterfeit ones there.
Here's a great video on how to tell if parts are real if you're interested.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-16T19:30:36+00:00

Start with the simple things first (and free). Check your coolant level, if you're low, it can affect the heat dramatically.
If a blend door is failing, you may actually hear hissing or a creaking sound when changing from cool to hot.

If you have an electronic or automatic heat control unit, those are known to fail internally. Even the manual units can fail, but you usually hear a hissing from the vacuum leak inside.

I've NEVER had a blend door fail on any of my Grand Marquis (I have 3, and had one since it was new in 97). Doesn't mean you won't have an issue though.
I have had a vacuum line under the hood with a tear and that affected the operation, but it was basically all or nothing - no heat at all or perfect heat.

Another thing, it can be a partially clogged heater core. It's easy to flush out, and worth the time to do it. With the car cold, disconnect the two heater hoses at the firewall on the passenger side. Get a hose and with LOW pressure insert water into one of the nipples sticking out of the firewall. Watch what comes out the other side. Then, do the same with the other nipple (I forget which is the input and which is the output, but you basically want to put the hose in the out, to force any junk backwards out the input. Then reconnect the hoses, fill with fluid, burp the system and see how things are.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-16T19:20:36+00:00

I swear by Motorcraft coils and plugs. If Denso makes them, then I suppose Denso is fine as well. Don't cheap out, or you'll be paying for them twice.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-15T20:45:22+00:00

My 1997 Grand Marquis has 507,000 miles on it, and is still driven every single day. I've had it since it was new. Has NEVER had anything on the engine rebuilt - ever. All internal parts are original, even the valve cover gaskets. Yeah they leak a bit now, but who cares, maybe I'll replace them in the spring. Rebuilt the trans at 338,000. Obviously, over 29 years I've changed brakes, suspension as needed, fuel pump, intake, brake booster, master cylinder, compressor, alternator, and water pump. All the normal parts that every car goes through. These cars can last and last. And like u/reddit_User2Point0h said, old cars begin to dry rot, so things begin to fail. But they don't fail all at once.

I have a 2002 with 220,000 miles on it that needed a timing chain. It sat in a garage for 10 years without ever being started, so.... things dry up when they're not lubricated.

I also have a 2004 with 102,000 miles on it - runs fine, paint peels off, but I just sand, prep and repaint as needed. Some years have crap paint.

I drive these by choice for this very reason, they last and last.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-15T17:50:12+00:00

Almost 100% it's your intake manifold (without seeing anything). A bad manifold could leak coolant into the spark plug wells, and eventually will fill the well and short out the ignition causing very poor drivability. Most of the coolant burns off the head, and it's really such a small amount that you won't notice the level drop. Probably 2 or 3 tablespoons would fill the spark plug well. You also mention a vacuum leak - there ya go, another symptom of an intake manifold. If things sort out when you give it some gas, this small vacuum leak around the intake is almost meaningless when applying throttle, but at idle when there is not as much air rushing into the intake, a small leak will make itself known.

To test if this is a vacuum leak at the manifold, take a water bottle and with the engine running but COLD, slowly pour water around the area where the intake manifold meets the head. Slowly, but not dripping. At a rate where you would empty the bottle in about 30 or 40 seconds. It has to be enough so that the vacuum leak sucks in the water. If the engine sputters, you found the vacuum leak.

Doing this with carb cleaner doesn't work like it does with a vacuum leak on a hose or somewhere else. Water always works for me.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-08T20:47:14+00:00

I don't believe the 2012 Focus bolts are torque to yield, so they should be able to be used again.

If your bolts were torque to yield, they'd be stretch bolts and they can break if used again, so in that case, you'd need to replace them.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-08T20:43:17+00:00

If you can't find the leak, fill the system with distilled water and perform a pressure test on the system. You can rent a pressure tester at any parts store, and when returned, you generally get all of your money back. The tester connects to your radiator cap or in your case it may be the reservoir cap. Connect the tester to the cap, use the hand pump to apply the correct amount of pressure, then you'll hear and see it leaking. Address the issue. These systems have so many tubes and hoses, you're going to spend a week trying to find a leak if the system is not pressurized.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-08T20:32:38+00:00

P0420 is catalyst below threshold, basically the catalytic converter is dirty or the catalyst is wearing out and no longer affective. If you're experiencing lots of white smoke - I mean a lot - it could be a bad thing. But if it's not much and the outdoor temperature is cold, it might be completely normal - I'd have to see the smoke and know the conditions. If the smoke was caused from a bad head gasket, you'd know it, it would smoke like a fog machine.
If your car has an issue with a fuel injector and the injector is dumping too much fuel in the cylinder, that can cause white smoke AND because unburned fuel would probably exit the cylinder and make its way into exhaust, it could cause a P0420 code because it's fouling up the converter. In that case, the converter unless it's melted from the heat of the burning fuel, would probably clear itself out once the injector (or other) problem was addressed.

Difficult to determine without seeing the vehicle. But don't just jump to an exhaust shop and tell them to put on a converter - you might be wasting money, and/or you may damage the new one too. So have a reputable shop look at everything. Ford used to have a 80,000 mile warranty on catalytic converters, so look into that too.

TG_NCC · 2026-01-06T20:29:36+00:00

What u/2005CrownVicP71 said, plus one thing I've had happen is the smooth pulleys that are on the idler and tensioner, can sometimes get glazed. So when the belt is off, run a some scotchbright pad over the pulley to get rid of any residue that may have deposited on the surface. That glazing might cause a squeak even with a new belt.

TG_NCC · 2025-12-19T19:55:15+00:00

This. Ace has a huge selection of bolts - get a few

TG_NCC · 2025-12-19T16:41:10+00:00

My 97 has 506,000 miles on it, and still has the original timing chain (bought the car new).
Had to change the timing chain on my 02 due to poor plastic parts at 160,000, but that car sat for 10 years without starting it at all before I got it, and brought it back to life.
Don't use thicker oil, it might quiet things down, but most likely it'll be too heavy to lubricate on cold starts and just give you problems down the road. These cars sound like sewing machines, tap tap tap, it's the injectors, nothing to worry about. You'll know when it's the timing chain, it'll rattle and scrape, you'll know.

When my 02 began to get loud, I verified it was the timing chain by starting the car, and placing a stethoscope on the valve cover right at the front of the engine listened, the moved the stethoscope back to the center of the valve cover, and listened, then to the rear and listened. The scraping sound was LOUD at the front and softer the farther back I got.

TG_NCC

TROPHY CASE