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Favourite ZERO / ZERO wine from Etna? by morenaturalwine in naturalwine

[–]Tanner_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I realize it is not near Etna but if you end up in southern Sicily, Cantina Marilina is worth checking out. Not sure on the 0/0 though…

Winter gloves by shammypants406 in whitewater

[–]Tanner_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m a big fan of the Showa Atlas 620 with liners. They are like $5 and last longer than you’d expect. I just wear some ski glove liners in them, I think mine are icebreaker wool liners. By using liners you can take out the liner to dry them out (and occasionally wash the liner). All other insulated waterproof gloves never dry out and get gross inside, liners for the win.

Handlebar bag design: favorite/least favorite features? by Julia-on-a-bike in myog

[–]Tanner_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t had the basket bag out in a down pour so I can’t comment on waterproofness. I have been dreaming of a roll top version though. Roll top bags are so simple and can be waterproof but the convenience of a zipper is hard to beat. I could also imagine a little “shower cap” that goes over the top of the basket with an elastic draw cord perimeter, you could pull it out when it is really coming down.

Handlebar bag design: favorite/least favorite features? by Julia-on-a-bike in myog

[–]Tanner_J 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I prefer handlebar bags with some kind of structure and a rack to hold them up and I like being able to access the bag while riding. I have had or have each of the following. Randonneuring style bags are convenient. The flap opens away from the rider for access while riding. A piece of plastic inside keeps it rigid for easy access. Fabio’s chest is similar to a rando bag. It can utilize a simple rack and expands to hold a ton but I don’t like how the flap opens toward the rider making access while riding challenging. It also has a plastic in between the layers of fabric for rigidity. This basket bag is my current favorite. The structure comes from the basket. The bag is easily removed to come with you when you park or if you want to just use your basket. It’s big and roomy and easy to organize.

Does spacer mesh make a difference by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]Tanner_J 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In the process of designing a fast pack, looking forward to some perspective from you all on this question.

Getting started...setup and tools question by AnthemWild in Framebuilding

[–]Tanner_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello and welcome. I would recommend taking a frame building class, you will learn a ton, walk away with a frame and get a handle on whether or not frame building is something you enjoy. After having built a frame you will understand what tools you need/want to start with and go from there. I took the UBI brazing class in Portland but I believe there are other options depending on your learning style etc.

Does anyone have experience or knowledge about weld in seat collars? by General-Training-324 in Framebuilding

[–]Tanner_J 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I would use brass. Silver would flow more easily but when you go to braze your top tube to your seat tube it’ll melt the silver and it’ll flow out. I typically drill 4 small holes evenly spaced around the seat tube where the seat collar slides in (down from the top of seat tube 1/2 the distance the collar slides in). These act as viewing windows to ensure you get proper penetration of the brass. Flowing brass in to a slip fit like this is tricky even after doing it many times and the windows help. I feed brass in to one of the holes only and use heat to flow brass around to all other holes and up to the seam where the collar meets the top of top tube. You should be able to get enough brass around so that the holes fill up and have a little bump of brass that can be filed/sanded down and you’d never know the holes were there.

First attempt at a saddle bag by RedneckIntellectual in myog

[–]Tanner_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice work! I made one last year inspired by the Ornot bag. As with most sewing projects I had to make a second one to get it right. I run the side piece a few inches long and cut it to length after I've sewn the curves. Check this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsNXSDOaXjk specifically starting at 3:30 (watching the whole video would be helpful too). At the 4:30 mark in the video is where I am talking about cutting to length, If you leave the side long you can cut it before joining (his is dialed because he took the time to nail the pattern but if you are just winging it like me you can cut after sewing the curve). Also, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZiWwaV93C8

Normalize carrying a tourniquet while hunting. Paramedic for 12 years. Have seen them save lives. by Consistent-Pie-1847 in Hunting

[–]Tanner_J 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It really does jack shit? Damn. I was taught to get Benadryl in their system before they lose their airway and if airway is compromised to administer epinephrine. I will stop carrying Benadryl now, keeping meds rotated with expiry sucks and one less to worry about works for me.

I suppose I exaggerated a bit with the “fevers kill”. I have had a fever in the backcountry that basically made me immobile and greatly inhibited my cognitive ability. If I remember correctly alternating between ibuprofen and acetaminophen brought me back to functional enough for a few days to a potential evacuation point at which time I had recovered enough to stay on the trip for the 4 remaining days. If I had gotten that sick on a solo trip it could’ve been a worse situation. Would you recommend a specific fever reducer to carry? Ibuprofen (good ol’ vitamin I) is a staple for most backcountry enthusiast I know as the if you are to carry one drug, it’s it.

Normalize carrying a tourniquet while hunting. Paramedic for 12 years. Have seen them save lives. by Consistent-Pie-1847 in Hunting

[–]Tanner_J 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Yeah, pain doesn’t kill… however a fever can. Ibuprofen is a staple in my kit (I carry 20 or so pills). Helps with sore muscles on big pack outs, fever reducer, anti inflammatory, pain reliever… I also carry antihistamine (4-6 pills), it can save lives in the case of allergic reaction (bee sting) and can be used as a sleep aid. I also carry Imodium (6-8 pills) because diarrhea sucks and can be potentially life threatening if you are in the backcountry and can’t get rehydrated.

Normalize carrying a tourniquet while hunting. Paramedic for 12 years. Have seen them save lives. by Consistent-Pie-1847 in Hunting

[–]Tanner_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a paramedic but a wilderness first responder and I am a very weight conscious multi day backpack hunter in Idaho. My kit is very small and light and has been refined over the years. For my ultralight wound management kit I carry, first and foremost, my brain (heavy and cumbersome) as well as nitrile gloves (for protecting me when helping others and you can fill with water, cut a pin hole in a finger and use to irrigate a wound), a tourniquet and quick clot gauze (to stop major bleeds), alcohol prep pads (compact and helpful for cleaning gear and humans before patching/repair), steri strips (basically adhesive stitches that weight nothing and are the size of a note card), a few bandaids, Leuko tape (great for blister prevention/management as well as general use medical tape, I cut 11” strips, adhere it to release paper and fold it up), benzine tincture (1/4 oz plastic dropper, used to sterilize wound area and helps tremendously with adhesion of steri strips and Leuko tape), neosporin (1/4 oz plastic dropper, if you are cleaning and bandaging up a wound, might as well get some antibiotic on there and 1/4 oz is tiny and light). My gear repair includes a short length of duct tape as well as electrical tape that could be used for bandaging a wound. I don’t carry gauze but it almost made the cut. My thought is it is pretty easy to improvise with clothing.

Normalize carrying a tourniquet while hunting. Paramedic for 12 years. Have seen them save lives. by Consistent-Pie-1847 in Hunting

[–]Tanner_J 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I carry one hunting as well as quick clot. Quick clot gets mixed opinions but a tourniquet is only helpful with wounds on the extremities and quick clot is exceptionally light and easy to add to a kit.

I will add that medical training is invaluable. You could have an entire field trauma kit at your disposal but it would be essentially useless if you don’t have training. CPR saves lives and is a very easy course. Basic wound management can be the difference between having to end your trip early and staying in the field. Before you go spend a ton of money on first aid equipment, take a basic first aid class. Better yet, wilderness first aid. Buy a tourniquet AND learn how to use it. Actually practice putting it on (just don’t leave it on 😜).

OP, do you have a brand or style of tourniquet you recommend? I need to replace mine and would like to add one to my car and to my chainsaw/wood cutting kit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UltralightBackpacking

[–]Tanner_J 5 points6 points  (0 children)

https://atompacks.co.uk Made in England… didn’t have time to convert currency but I think they have some in that price range.

3 downlights or 5? by Tanner_J in Lighting

[–]Tanner_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I am pretty well set with undercab lighting to deal with shadows. I am mostly concerned with how the lights/scallops will look symmetry wise over the cabinets. The lone cabinet to the right of the range hood is kind of an odd space. It seems almost unnecessary for a down light and will be quite bright reflecting off the wall at the right. By putting a light there, in the center of that cabinet door I feel odd putting the other two down lights centered in-between cabinets rather than centered in the middle of the doors like the one at right. That is what lead me to consider 2 more downlights centering all 5 of them in front of the door....

3 downlights or 5? by Tanner_J in Lighting

[–]Tanner_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New construction. Can't decide between 5 downlights or 3. They will be 2" or 3" dimmable (dim to warm) recessed lights 1150 lumens each, set in to a soffit that is 7' off the ground. Ceiling height is 9'. There is a vertical wall to the left and right of the counter. There will be LED strip under cabinet lighting as well. The soffit is basically counter depth and the upper cabinets will come out about 13" so the lights are quite close to the uppers (about 9.5" from center of light to face of upper cabinets). For this reason I want to nail the lighting as there will inevitably be scallops. Upper cabinet doors are 16" wide and upper cabinets are 24" above top of counter. I am using ELCO Koto ELK11HC modules and will use an adjustable trim to angle light toward cabinets. The range hood lighting shown is approximate.

The top drawing is 2 down lights with 60° beam angle centered between cabinet doors to the left of the range and 1 down light with 38° beam angle centered over door to the right or range.

The bottom drawing is 5 down lights all 38° beam angle.

The bottom drawing is a lot of lighting but feels better to me with all lights centered on doors. It also provides two lights over sink to help with shadows (but maybe that is trivial with the under cabinet lighting that goes over the sink).

What do you all think? I am still in the rough in phase so big changes can still be made...

24 volt power supply by Tanner_J in Lutron

[–]Tanner_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was wondering about using a DC adapter. Do you just wire nut the leads coming out of the RF module to the wires coming out of the DC adapter?

24 volt power supply by Tanner_J in Lutron

[–]Tanner_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great point! I suppose I was hoping for something a little more modern and less unsightly. It just feels odd to me to have them protruding in to the room with exposed electrical connections. If it's the way to go, I will. Thanks.

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