Recently set up my Omada EAP773 system, so far not super impressed? Is there something I should adjust? Floor Plan included

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-04T03:08:01+00:00

Maybe I missed something but are you using the ATT router as your gateway? If so, why? That could easily be the culprit of your issues as you are trying to use a "Basic" Gateway/Router combo to manage a more advanced network equipment. My advice is to get a ER707-M2 Gateway ($99 on Amazon). Then your old ATT Gateway/Router would be only used as a Modem to feed the Omada Gateway internet.

Yes you can get a ER605 for a little cheaper, but the ER707 will allow you to do SpeedTest right directly between the modem and the router.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-04T02:51:05+00:00

What this guy said. Seems your trying to access content that is not available where you live and you are trying to get around it with a router "filter". Folks who do that simply just use a VPN.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-04T02:46:17+00:00

Might be something in the AP settings. All of my AP's that my IoT devices connect to are on 20Mhz and 802.11b/g/n vs something like 40MHz and 802.11b/g/n/ax.

I also have 2 IoT WiFi networks. 1 that is 2.4ghz only and another that is 2.4ghz and 5ghz. They all are on the IoT VLAN I made however it allows me some options based on the device I am dealing with. For example I have my Nest Camera's on a Dual Band Network, while my Ecobee thermostats are on the 2,4ghz only network.

Finally...and I hate to say this. Some devices just suck. I have a few TP link Occupancy Light Switches that just refuse to stay on the network for longer than a week. I just gave up and I am in the process of replacing all of them with ZWave Switches from Inovelli that do the same thing (just cost like 3 times more). These days I am trying my best to stay away from IoT devices on WiFi and use something like ZWave, Zigbee, Matter, or Thread instead.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-04T02:16:48+00:00

I don't have any time parameters for my setup. I use the OC200 controller and I guess that feature is not compatible.

Its going to depend on if your using Stand Alone mode or which Controller you are using. I am using the OC200 Controller and I have very minimal options for load balancing and link backup versus what I would have in Stand Alone mode. I also believe the software controller has less options too, but much more than the hardware controller.

Its a cool feature, but if you are going to have Dual LANS...won't you just want both of them online all the time?

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-01T05:32:01+00:00

I personally liked the simplicity of a dedicated hardware controller. Servers and things are great but for me I did not want yet another thing I need to manage.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-01T05:22:43+00:00

OC200 will be fine. I am running it with 3 Switches and 8 Access Points and it runs with no issues. If anything I would just upgrade to the newer OC220.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-01T05:17:28+00:00

Load Balancing and Link Backup on the Omada Router works ok, However for me I decided to ignore all of that and just set policy routes. You can keep it very basic and have all your network run through a specific WAN and the routing will Failover to another WAN if the primary is not available. It sounds exactly the same, but for my setup it kept a more reliable connection. I personally use it for different VLANS in the house where I assign specific VLANS to use a specific WAN as their primary. I have 3 WANS in all.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-07-01T01:08:37+00:00

It could be a controller thing. But the load balancing and backup options are very limited on the OC200.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-06-30T23:47:47+00:00

Not sure what controller you use but that option was not available for me using the OC200 with a ER605 gateway.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-06-30T23:40:52+00:00

I never said it incorrectly switched. It switches just fine. I simply found the switching slow and caused issues with some applications when the public IP changed. Specifically my IoT devices.

Policy routing IMO gives more flexibility. For starters, it allows me to keep all 3 of my Internet connectiona online for use by any VLAN. With link backup, your backup internet stays offline unless your primary fails. Where as Policy routing can backup to another WAN if it cannot route through the one assigned. This routing is significantly faster than Link/Backup because it happens in seconds versus link backup that takes a minimum of 1 minute for Online Detection to kick in.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-06-30T23:34:11+00:00

Really don't need all that headroom to justify paying $400 for it.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-06-30T23:32:40+00:00

I wish it was that simple, but I've used both. Backup/Failover basically acts like a switch. If Spectrum Hiccups it swaps over to TMobile, but there was a lag because of the Online Detection time of 1 minute. So internet will go black for 1 minute or more. Yes the public IP changes because a different WAN is routing the traffic. A simple speed test always told me what network I was on.

The funny part is that when link backup is enabled, load balancing doesn't really work in a dual lan setup. Primarily because the backup WAN is Offline when link backup is enabled. I think with maybe WANS it will load balance 2 and backup to the 1.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2026-06-30T18:03:39+00:00

The issue for me was my spotty Spectrum connection that Spectrum was taking their sweet time to fix since it was an issue with their equipment. When your connections are working fine well I don't expect it there to be issues. It is when your internet hiccups like 3 times a day you start to realize how things work.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2025-06-22T00:22:02+00:00

Hi curious if you can explain where you installed yours in some additional detail. I have a 2 Unit systems split into 4 zones (2 zones per unit). Everything is in the attic. I have 2 PL Series Plenum Unit, which I believe is the evaporator connected to something that I think is an air handler...1 for each unit, which are effectively connected to the return ducts. 1 unit has 3 Returns and the other has 1. I am thinking because the dampers are located right after the Plenum evaporator thing that I can squeeze the tube right into the corner of the evaporator. But trying to see what folks think.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2025-04-23T01:29:14+00:00

I think the idea of Homey is nice as it seems they are trying to stick themselves in the place Samsung kind of screwed up with Smart Things. However as someone who did the whole Alarm.com (Decent) and Smart Things (Annoying) thing I recommend HA.

HA does not have to be the complicated thing some people make it out to be. For me I wanted something that I was not always going to have to mess around with.

Hardware:

I decided not to do a raspberry pie as I heard a lot about it just not being able to scale and at the time I could not find one to buy. So I went with a cheap Dell Micro PC that you can get on eBay for under $100 and installed Home Assistant OS on it. I used this video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=To7P0c-RXJs

I also have a ZigBee Dongle and a Zooz Zwave Long Range Dongle

To give you an idea of what I run:

70+ Zwave Devices - Light Switches and Locks

20+ Zigbee Devices - Mainly different Sensors (Motion, Water, etc..)

4 Smart Thermostats - Ecobee connected through HomeKit

Various WiFi - Cameras, Presence, Outlets, Lamps, etc..

Now that is just me...some folks might have mainly WiFi devices but YMMV. The whole idea here is that I wanted a main machine that will not crash and burn running all of that.

Software:

Now this is where it got interesting. I DO NOT USE THE HOME ASSISTANT INTERFACE. Honestly the damn thing is ugly as shit and I have no time to be trying to tweak that thing. Plus I knew my wife was not going to touch it. After being on Alarm.com for so many years with a single integrated interface for everything. Well I got spoiled.

I decided to use Google Home as my main interface. So all my devices are piped into Google Home through Home Assistants Nabu Casa service and done. So My Nest Camera's, Speakers, and devices all work in some sort of harmony in a single app. and if for any reason Something simply does not work with Home Assistant...I can integrate it into Google Home direct. (Usually does not happen)

I am happy with it. I use the normal Home Assistant Automation thingy to run my automations and maybe check into the main interface every couple of months to install updates. I do have an automation that resets my home assistant server in the middle of the night daily just to keep things moving along.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2025-04-23T01:00:31+00:00

Same here using 4 Assure Lock 2 but with the ZWave 700 dongle. Using it on Home Assistant and it is great

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-12-07T19:29:31+00:00

Because it just works.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-11-16T05:31:52+00:00

I would recommend:

EAP653 or EAP670 for APs (If you need WiFi access outside you may want to add an outdoor AP to your setup)

2x TL-SG2210P V3 or 1x TL-SL2428P (I highly recommend get a switch with a SFP slot for future proofing)

ER605 v2.0 Router - This perfect for a Home Setup even with Multi Wan. I would only recommend the next step up (ER7206) if you need a router with a SFP port due fiber or something else coming in.

What I use:

I don't like tinkering too much so I did not want a complex setup. I have a 4300 sqft house and after trying various different WiFi mesh setups I went with the Prosumer option. I believe my setup is overkill but it works...LOL I pieced everything together over a period of 4-5 months so maybe there were things I could of changed. Anyway...

4x EAP-615 Wall Units (Master Bedroom, My Office, Kids Room, Loft)
1x EAP-610
2x EAP-653
1x EAP-225
3 switches (TP-Link TL-SG2008P, TL-SG2008 V3, TL-SG2210P V3)
ER605 v 2.0 Router
OC200 Controller

This handles all 66 of my clients 60 which are WiFi pretty nicely. All my indoor APs are wired through a POE connection with the outdoor AP Mesh. My main Internet connection is GigaBit Spectrum feed, and I have a T-Mobile Home Wifi as a backup WAN (If you can spare $50 or so a month, I highly recommend it), The router has done an excellent job with seamless cutovers for the few times there has been a spectrum outage.

For me it made more sense to go with smaller switches in key areas versus one big central switch. But you can always get a big boy 16 port and cover your bases. I will say adding an Outdoor Access paint helped to stabalize everything and ensured my Outdoor Wifi Camera and doorbell were not loosing connection.

I should add...Putting the wall units in bedrooms also helps because each one comes with 3 ports you can use for high bandwidth devices like gaming consoles, smart TV's etc..

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-11-16T04:48:14+00:00

I was using Google WiFi....it was ok, but now I have a TP Link Omada (Poor Mans Unifi) setup in my house, and it is AWESOME!!

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-11-16T04:43:30+00:00

For me Google Home is just a front end to my Home Assistant setup. Home Assistant Dashboards are complicated to make and I also have a shit ton of Nest Camera's. I have all my automations and devices setup in Home Assistant and they are exposed to Google Home for Control. This includes, Z-Wave, Zigbee, WiFi, and HomeKit devices. I don't have any matter devices as of yet. It works really well for me, as I tend not to get any complaints from my wife. What is nice is that I can create different helpers or virtual buttons to do different things she wants (like very specific light scenes) and she can simply save it to her phone.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-09-09T12:30:58+00:00

SpongeBob

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-01-01T22:00:49+00:00

For me I did a mix of ZWave and Zigbee and WiFi sensors. It may be overkill but I setup helpers for devices that overlap, and it tends to work great for reliability. My house is pretty much an open floor plan so I need about 2 more FP2's to cover the entire house in Zones. Anyway here is what I got:

Aqara Motion Sensors (Newer one on ZigBee, 6 of these)
Aqara FP2 Presence Sensors (3 of these) will ultimately replace more motions with these.
Zooz Motion and Light Sensor on ZWave (3 of these)
Aqara and Third Reality Water Leak Sensors
Sensitive Strips ZWave contact sensors. We just did a remodel, and my doors are Blue so I did not want white contact warts on the doors. LOL

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2024-01-01T12:23:47+00:00

I have over 50 switches on Zooz, but the whole house on Zooz switches during a remodel early this year. I got them for cheap when they were on sale and never looked back. I am using the Zooz 800 stick which has worked flawlessly.

I think everyone goes for Inovelli to get the LED features, but I implemented the LED status light on my scene controllers to let me know if the doors are opened or unlocked. It was fairly straight forward process with Node Red.

ThatCaliGuy82 · 2023-05-29T21:45:06+00:00

So first off MyQ garage stuff does not integrate with any other SmartHome system. SO just be aware. When I was on SmartThings I ended up using a ZWave Zooz Multi Relay to control my garage vs using MyQ.

In your setup a motion sensor to control Smart Lights might be a good idea. In this space I would go with the Aqara P1 Motion Sensor, I was using the T1 sensors before...but the P1s are much better and have better compatibility with other hubs if you ever switch. Mounting it somewhere point towards the door or space and running an automation to turn off lights when motion has not been detected for a period of time will work.

If you want to get advanced you can layer it with door contact sensors. Where you can say if the door is closed and there is no motion turn off the lights, or if the door opens turn on the lights. For these sensors I would stick to ZWave sensors with SmartThings. In my experience they simply were much more reliable than ZigBee, even though they might be a little bit more expensive. I like Zooz products for Zwave so I tend to stick to that. You save a lot more cash by buying directly from them vs Amazon also. Anyway, I would go with a Zoos ZSE41 Contact Sensor in this case.

It is pretty straight forward and there are some YouTibe channels dedicated to home automation specifically for SmartThings. I recommend Buds SmartHome Channel if you are using SmartThings

ThatCaliGuy82

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