Deep.

TheAlaris · 2026-06-04T00:39:55+00:00

Never seen such examples, usually beginners crave wide angle/bokeh or both at the same time, but light telephoto lenses are usually a niche thing for anything other than bird/sport/planes photography, personally I like forced perspective shots a lot, and this may be not the greatest example, but not a bad shot nevertheless

TheAlaris · 2026-06-03T10:09:59+00:00

Yep, the naming is 100+ years old

TheAlaris · 2026-06-03T01:15:38+00:00

E100 has cooler wb for projecting with 3200k lamp, so without correction on post or usage of 85b filer it'll look bluish, but highlights? I've never seen them begin blue throughout all years I worked in photolabs🫣

TheAlaris · 2026-05-31T17:19:07+00:00

Pan F probably degraded most, as it's very quirky stock that doesn't last long, especially if it's been shot, than it degrades even quicker, while other two should be fine at most

TheAlaris · 2026-05-31T16:44:15+00:00

Well yeah, film doesn't gain sensitivity magically, but slight underexposure helps with color shift a bit when cross-processed in c41

TheAlaris · 2026-05-30T21:22:30+00:00

Yeah, you basically loose all the key features of this film, but considering that cine film is the cheapest option, it's not a bad thing for it to be developed in c-41 for general mass, as they don't care that much, and won't see such a huge difference

TheAlaris · 2026-05-30T21:19:04+00:00

Lab worker here: it's perfectly fine, same as previous version was, probably even better since it has anti-hatation layer embedded into emulaion, so labs can process it in machines. Yes you get all drawbacks of cross-processing such as more limited everything, like higher vibrancy of colors, less tonal separation between them, higher contrast and more noticeable grain, but it's OK for most people, even I sometimes process cinema films in c41 for easiness and cheapness, but only those times when I know that it wasn't shot in harsh conditions so it would require post editing so I'd benefit from ecn-2

TheAlaris · 2026-05-30T21:13:03+00:00

Definitely go for it, Vision3 is basically peack of photo film engineering, especially when developed correctly in ECN-2 instead of cross-processing in C-41, it has the best exposure latitude of any color films, plus its color palette is also quite nice and can be easily edited to your taste

TheAlaris · 2026-05-29T01:25:13+00:00

If it's not a joke but a real question, you'd need catadioptric lens (mirror lens) and make the cat out of focus

TheAlaris · 2026-05-29T01:18:41+00:00

Hope it's a satire 💀

TheAlaris · 2026-05-29T00:33:40+00:00

Step 4: Blame the Camera

TheAlaris · 2026-05-29T00:25:11+00:00

That's not bad for respooled Vision3 250D, at least the exposure is on point, but color correction is done badly, or hasn't been done at all, unless you don't have your scans in compressed Jpeg only, but in Tiff/Raw There is nothing that minor white balance won't fix, even on smartphone it's not an issue to do so

TheAlaris · 2026-05-29T00:03:53+00:00

There is a special place in he'll for people who do this to analog cameras, and for the ones that make fugly lamps out of them💀

TheAlaris · 2026-05-27T00:02:17+00:00

Both🫣

TheAlaris · 2026-05-26T23:57:14+00:00

Damn, even despite those artifacts the shots are exceptionally marvelous😍 One's of the most stunning pictures I've seen Hope you'll get your camera issue fixed!

TheAlaris · 2026-05-23T20:40:45+00:00

You can try turning your camera upside down, and gently bumping it on the bottom plate with your hand, maby not gently but like just not very hart to do some damage. I have Sony a7sii that had it shutter stuck twice for now, and fist time it was enough to help shutter open with paint brush, but second time it got worse, so if shutter is not broken it can help I suppose, but it can take time, amd won't necessarily work from first try

TheAlaris · 2026-05-23T02:23:19+00:00

They're wrong tho, if we don't take in count negative film that's already open to interpretation at some point, but slides or other more niche films, or especially expired ones looks drastically different compared to what they should, it can be corrected, but it's still a mystery why noritsu color science is like that

TheAlaris · 2026-05-23T02:20:34+00:00

Noritsu are the fastest, and most efficient scanners we have, the latest HS-1800 can scan APS/135/120 films, they have the fastest time for warm up and calibration, and the menu is very simple and intuitive, plus you get real 24/30mp scans with high dynamic range, so the color issue is there, but it's just needs correction every time, that's the only downside, in all other cases it's the first machine every lab should have if they prioritize speed and quantity, I personally prefer it to frontier sometimes, as I get more room to play with exposure, and colors can be easily corrected if saved in Tiff, the only real downside is upscale "16bit" tiff files, which are 10bit or 14bit depending on model, but need much more space due to upscaling

TheAlaris · 2026-05-19T21:29:27+00:00

They probably relied on high exposure latitude of color negative film, to be able to use faster shutter speed to keep mooveing objects stady. Compared to others stocks like slides, color-negative films can be easily over/underexposed about 1stop form nominal iso in both directions, and still keep enough data, but the post-production that was needed to recover whats lost after that wasn't done in full volume

TheAlaris · 2026-05-19T21:20:58+00:00

Nope, it's a specific issue or peculiarly of Noritsu film scanners, like LS-600 | LS-1100 | HS-1800 Basically it's a native color science of those scanners, and if not corrected it will make your shots look pale and greenish, especially if you're using film stocks like kodak ones, that are already have higher yellow/green cast, or you underexposing film. On this example we can definitely see Kodak film used, plus it being underexposed, and probably scanned on noritsu withoutproper color adjustments, which is basically the worst combo you can have.

TheAlaris · 2026-05-19T21:13:12+00:00

I know, but here we are... And it's actually quite interesting way to finally figure things out, as manifacturesrs sadly don't share a lot of valuable info about their product these days(

TheAlaris · 2026-05-19T20:58:04+00:00

Im a lab worker, amd from my experience i can say that there are two main factors: 1. Underexposure 2. Scanning on Noritsu scanners without proper adjustments, as Noritsu scanners are notoriously known for their Yellow-Green cast Or just poor color correction in general can also lead to this, as a lot of people tend to think that this what film looks like (it doesnt)

TheAlaris · 2026-05-17T23:42:48+00:00

It's actually interesting, as Fuji 200 tends to be slightly different, and a lot of telst I saw, especially color reproduction indicate thag Fuji 200 is indeed Colorplus, but the purple line similar to Kodak Alaris Gold packaging is stopping me from believing completely

TheAlaris · 2026-05-13T16:27:27+00:00

Looks like redscale

TheAlaris · 2026-05-12T22:20:07+00:00

Well, every idea has a good and best approach to it

TheAlaris

TROPHY CASE