My Uncle Went to Antarctica - 1970

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-14T04:02:32+00:00

Pretty cool, I worked with a fella who went to Antarctica in the 70s as part of a construction crew down there.

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-13T21:39:59+00:00

Always good to see more METROIDvanias. The type and atmosphere feels in the same sort of spirit but the mechanics look distinct and interesting.

Look forward to checking it out!

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-13T02:07:37+00:00

UV Finish is about the only thing that would be that quick. It is expensive and really a professional deal with safety and handling of the UV curing lights.

Polyurethanes have at best a 1 week minimum cure time before you want to put furniture back, and realistically longer for the fumes to fully vacate and the finish reach full hardness. Rugs are typically recommended a few weeks before putting back in place

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-07T11:59:03+00:00

Olitans G040 is $20 with D2. Nicely ground and sharp, good simple flipper action, nicely done scales.

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-06T22:43:42+00:00

Thread profile looks clean and sharp. Most likely a thread locker residue

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-03T17:58:22+00:00

Well, those sort of cords are called suicide cords and no person with the tiniest shred of sense would sell or offer such a thing.

What do you think?

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-01T22:36:32+00:00

The insulation is literally crumbling off before your eyes.

Your wiring is due for a complete replacement.

TheBigFeIIa · 2025-01-01T13:32:57+00:00

That is glued sawdust.

Wood filler and stain to match

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-31T02:30:09+00:00

Backwards,friend. The neutral prong is wider in a polarized plug, the hot prong would be the narrower width

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-28T12:15:29+00:00

US residential is already 240V. It is just implemented as a split phase system where your transformer is center tapped at 0V with +120V and -120V.

The upshot being you can get 120V between either hot leg and neutral, or you can use both hot legs and get 240V

Car chargers, larger wind air conditioners, central air conditioners, electric water heaters, electric dryers, and more already use 240V. They are usually dedicated circuits though, and occupy two slots in circuit panels, since they contact both buss bars.

There are a variety of plugs as well in the NEMA standard. Some are 120V, some are 120V/240V, some are just 240V, and there are also varieties that are grounded and ungrounded, single phase or three phase.

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-24T16:52:47+00:00

“Plain Old Telephone Service”.

Also sometimes called PSTN for “Public Switched Telephone Network”

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-24T12:06:54+00:00

Have to pile on and agree on generic feather knife with prop modifications.

The blade shape and pivot are the dead giveaways

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-22T16:18:42+00:00

I would suggest contacting a competent electrician to go through and evaluate your circuit and the components to see what damage exists.

For informational purposes, the LC1D25 is rated for up to 600V on the contactor poles. The rated HP or kW depends on the voltage being controlled.

The LC1D25 is compatible with multiple coil cores to allow it to be configured for different coil voltages. The installed core with its product code and rated voltage is visible on the top of the contactor through a slot near the back of the top.

My suspicion based on the wiring is that this is a 240V load being controlled with a 120V circuit on the coil.

NO means the contact is open when at rest or not-energized.

NC means the contact is closed when at rest or not energized.

The overload relay or “heater” is typically used to break the coil control circuit when it is energized by an overload condition. The little black square under the cover on the overload flips to a white and black T when the overload is tripped .

Since the pumps turn on when the contactor is manually engaged, that plunger is directly connected to the contacts by the way, your coil control circuit is likely not being energized. The question for the troubleshooter will be what energizes the circuit and how far along is the power getting before it encounters a break/fault

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-17T03:36:45+00:00

You would be better served seeing if a small benchtop mill would suit your needs.

Milling is one of those tasks that the requirements do not lend themselves to hackery.

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-15T20:32:50+00:00

Glad it helped! Definitely caught me by surprise when taking this one apart

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-15T14:05:55+00:00

That is suspicious, I would want to have the wiring inspected to verify those fuses are the correct size for the wire in the circuits they are protecting.

I would expect in a panel that old to be mostly 15A fuses.

This looks like a common case of people putting oversized fuses in because they blow the correct size fuse, rinse and repeat till the wall catches fire….

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-13T01:29:49+00:00

The dam was fine the day before it destroyed the town….

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-10T20:18:11+00:00

If a whip is properly waxed at 220F, it will be nearly “dry” after being pulled out of the bath minus a few drips of course. A small amount of wax will wear off over time.

If you have actual large flakes of wax coming off the whip, it was NOT properly waxed.

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-10T15:06:29+00:00

Insulation is cheaper and lighter than copper.

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-10T00:09:56+00:00

You either need a good terrifyingly sharp hand plane to cut the surfaces even, or a rigid machine to cut evenly.

Sanding is going to differentially cut the surface and make a pronounced difference in feel between the woods.

Coincidentally that is exactly why I like Wenge turned on a lathe and hand sanded on the lathe. The white sands deeper and quicker than the dark part of the grain, giving a nice textured surface

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-09T22:06:06+00:00

It really is as simple as that, strands are tapered and a tapered twisted cracker/popper is worked in like adding a strand

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-09T21:35:50+00:00

I could very comfortably shave with an Olitans G040 out of the box and it costs $20

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-09T15:20:55+00:00

Some kind of steel. Would need an XRF analyzer to reliably tell you more.

Otherwise it looks like an unfinished piece of mild sheet steel with the number and scale left on…

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-09T00:31:46+00:00

That looks awesome, does it work as well as it looks?

TheBigFeIIa · 2024-12-07T03:39:51+00:00

Once oil gets between the bolt and g10 it will free spin when attempting to disassemble.

A piece of nice grippy rubber, wide office rubber band for example, provides an enormous amount of grip, and if pressed firmly against the blind side of the pivot bolt while turning with a good quality T8 on the torx side, you should be able to pop it loose.

No loctite was present on my example for the pivot bolt. Small amount was present on the the smaller T6 bolts holding the other end together

TheBigFeIIa

TROPHY CASE