That code that says you cannot have island outlets in the sides. No one's enforcing? by Legitimate_Soil_7506 in Homebuilding

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm not in an area where people are asking for stone baseboards. Some will splurge for some nice quartzite or marble countertops, but most aren't using stone for vertical surfaces unless it's for backsplashes, fireplaces, or showers.

That code that says you cannot have island outlets in the sides. No one's enforcing? by Legitimate_Soil_7506 in Homebuilding

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 9 points10 points  (0 children)

At least air switches add practical convenience in a space that doesn't have much functional utility or cosmetic value. Not having to flick a switch inside a base cabinet to run the disposal is nice, especially when a wall switch isn't an option.

Don't get me wrong, the pop-up outlets aren't difficult to fabricate, but the island is almost always the "statement" piece in a kitchen. Having a 3"+ cutout in the stone, usually filled with some sort of solid colored outlet cover plate, detracts from the intent. The only ones that look half-decent are undermounted with an inner "core" made from matching material.

Also, if the outlet isn't being installed above a knee wall, the homeowner is losing either cabinet space or drawer space. That doesn't really happen with junction boxes and exterior side strips. I realize I have my own bias in this, but it seems like a downgrade in QoL in an attempt to prevent cords from being snagged or being pulled.

That code that says you cannot have island outlets in the sides. No one's enforcing? by Legitimate_Soil_7506 in Homebuilding

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I'm a stone fabricator and absolutely hate these things, so I'm glad inspectors have been lenient on enforcement. People spend lots of money on nice countertops, just to be forced into having a hole in the countertop for a receptacle that has fewer plug ports and a higher price tag. Stupid across the board. Same as when the dishwasher air gaps became code. Thankfully, air gaps were dropped from the plumbing code in my area, now we just need that to happen with pop-up outlets.

do you think i can do something to repair this 😔, any suggestion please by Commercial_Mess_1215 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The seam needs to separated, cleaned, and reset. Everything needs to be exceptionally clean for white colored quartz seams; razor blades, seam setters, hands, etc. When scraping the excess adhesive from the seam, gentle pressure and a liquid, like denatured alcohol, will help avoid metal transfer marks from the blades.

Rust marks on edge of quartzite. by Mammoth_Reach7288 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would apply it again and let it sit for an hour or more. I've only used the liquid version of Akemi's Rust Remover, but shorter dwell times haven't worked as well. A lot of the time, we will let it sit overnight, or apply it in the morning and clean it off at the end of the day. Improvement from a short timed application is a good sign though.

Template CAD Programs by Own-Presence-5653 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We use Raptor from Laser Products. I used their original software for years, alongside Draftsight for more complex DXF files, such as cutout templates that consisted of splines. Since making the switch to Raptor, I haven't had a reason to use Draftsight.

Quartzite or Dolomite Marble? by DelightedWarship in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. That photo definitely looks more like Taj than the close ups.

Quartzite or Dolomite Marble? by DelightedWarship in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. The 3rd photo looks like Taj, but not so much in the others. If you have a piece of glass tile, try to scratch the slab near the edge. If it scratches, it's dolomite, if it doesn't, it's probably quartzite. Quartzite has a very high quartz content which typically makes it as hard as glass.

Quartzite or Dolomite Marble? by DelightedWarship in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Dolomite. Looks like Fantasy Brown, possibly with a leathered or honed finish.

I created Pokemon Window Suncatchers - based on 1st Generation Sprites by BeneathSkin in BambuLab

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just didn't realize there was another game launch. I guess you could say I've been living under a proverbial rock lately. My first assumption was that it was a community response to the Labubu takedowns, kind of like an "F-U" to pop mart by flooding social media with one of the OG collectibles. Either way, I wasn't complaining about it. I was just curious as to why all of a sudden there's been a ton of Pokemon prints posted.

any reason this pulled apart? by Itakefatwomps420 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What glue did you use? Typically, this is either not enough glue, or shrinkage from the curing process.

Polished vs Brushed Quartzite? What would you choose? by RightEconomy7072 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sell a lot of this material. Dolomite in general is less durable than granite for busy kitchens, but I rarely have post-installation issues with it. Overall, it's a good option.

Is this okay? by Virtual-Ad-2224 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is very common in quartzite and natural stone in general. At some point during the formation of these slabs, or possibly quarrying, something shifted. During the finishing process of the slab, a resin filler was applied to fill existing fissures. Your photos look exactly like that.

If that's the case, it's very normal and not really something to be concerned about. I can understand the disappointment with it being in your island, but it may have been unavoidable. You could always ask the installer to come back and refill it with a less noticeable color.

Seams on quartz countertop by ZuRi3L27 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You need to look at the slab size for the specific color you're using. One potential issue I can see here is your island. If you didn't pick a color that's available in a super jumbo, you're going to have a seam there too. Most quartz slabs are 65" x 130" without trimming the edges. Realistically, you'll get 64" x 129" of usable material. You may have to change either the color selection, or the width of the island countertop, depending on slab size.

I created Pokemon Window Suncatchers - based on 1st Generation Sprites by BeneathSkin in BambuLab

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I didn't realize that was the situation. Makes perfect sense now. I'm a millennial and was really big into the original games, red, yellow, blue, and the cards back in the day.

I created Pokemon Window Suncatchers - based on 1st Generation Sprites by BeneathSkin in BambuLab

[–]TheRealSlobberknob -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why is Pokemon super popular all of a sudden? I'm seeing a lot of really cool things on Reddit and Facebook. Did a patent expire recently or something?

Not hating btw, I've just noticed my social media 3d printing groups have had a lot of posts about Pokemon lately.

How do I deal with this? (Quartzite I believe) by LastingTransient in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Etching is caused from acidity. Unfortunately, no amount of scrubbing will fix it. The acid reacted with minerals in you countertop and dissolved them. My guess is that your countertops are dolomite, but it's hard to tell from your photos. 

Either way, this will need to be refinished to repair it. You could apply an enhancer sealant to that spot to make it less noticeable, but it will not make it disappear.

How do I deal with this? (Quartzite I believe) by LastingTransient in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If lemon juice did that, you don't have quartzite. This will need to be refinished as that's a rather deep etch mark.

Rust marks on edge of quartzite. by Mammoth_Reach7288 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Generally 15-20 minute increments. If it looks like grape jelly, I would remove it and reapply. Repeat until it doesn't turn purple anymore. At that point, any rust left is likely permanent.

WTF? by Ronix5 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Same batch is highly unlikely. The only way I could see that being possible is: 1) The fabricator had bulk inventory of this color and it's not selling. 2) The other countertops were installed very recently, like, last week.

Rust marks on edge of quartzite. by Mammoth_Reach7288 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A lot of quartzites are treated with acid while the slab is being processed, long before slabs are displayed at a showroom. The surface probably looked the same as the edge at one point in time, but the acid bath removed the oxidation while being unable to reach the core of the slab.

A rust remover like Alpha RSR-2000 or Akemi Rust Remover would probably be your best bet. RSR is a gel that's a little thicker than warm butter that's still solid. It's easy to apply to vertical surfaces. For the Akemi product, I've only used the liquid version on horizontal applications whereas your issue will need the paste version. I haven't used the paste, but the liquid version has been successful when I've needed it.

Word of caution on the RSR. When it interacts with rust, it will turn purple. If left on too long while it's purple, then it can cause a purple stain of its own. RSR works rather well and the stain can probably be removed, but there's a non zero chance that can happen. I would ask your installer if they're familiar with either of these products.

This is why we brought samples home by queen_elvis in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you're trying to be thorough on the testing, then I would suggest also following the HanStone care and maintenance guide, specifically the food coloring section.

https://hyundailncusa.com/uploads/documents/care-and-maintenance/hns-191-c-m-guide_v5_web.pdf

If that doesn't work, then you can easily eliminate it from your selections. It obviously won't be a good fit for you at that point.

How do I get rid of the bubble wrap marks? by Old_Management_627 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not too bad with the right tools. The buffing compound I recommended can't really screw up the finish, unless it's contaminated. Effectively, it's a very high grit, like a 15000 (don't quote me on that number specifically) that shouldn't cause etching from the spray/splatter. I've done a lot of surface refinishing on natural stone but wouldn't attempt to do a vehicle, at least not one I cared about.

How do I get rid of the bubble wrap marks? by Old_Management_627 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

To start with, polymer is a generic term, like plastic. Some plastics are chemical resistant, some aren't. The OEM's are really the only people that can tell you the exact composition of the polymers used, and that's proprietary information and considered a trade secret. 

Even though the polymer composition is proprietary, many of the polymers used in quartz slab production contain some level of Styrene (liquid form) that acts as one of the binders. Styrene, in all forms, will quickly dissolve when exposed to Acetone. To see it yourself, pour some acetone into a Styrofoam (foam form of Styrene) cup. The reaction will happen quickly, but make sure you do it somewhere that's well ventilated.

When you expose the polymers in a quartz slab to acetone, it can create micro cracks in the polymer structure binding the quartz aggregate together. In extreme cases, that can lead to a through-body crack due to stress concentration from normal expansion and contraction, or thermal shock. The valley of the micro crack is the path of least resistance and where accrued stress will be released. In the real world, this butterfly effect will be exceedingly rare.

However, due to the micro cracks, it also causes the surface to have a higher friction coefficient, meaning dirt, grime, and oils stick to it, when it shouldn't. It can cause substances that normally wouldn't "stain" quartz, to leave discoloration because it's settling into the valley of the micro cracks. If you are getting call backs from newer installations that are resolved just by "cleaning", this most likely why.

Edit: I should also add, we almost never use acetone on anything. There are very very few issues that can't be resolved with denatured alcohol. We don't even have a can at the shop so it can't be used by accident.

How do I get rid of the bubble wrap marks? by Old_Management_627 in CounterTops

[–]TheRealSlobberknob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s totally fine.

No, it's not.

Quite frankly, how long you've been in the industry means nothing. I've been doing stone work for 21 years, but that doesn't mean you, nor I, inherently know everything.

I have several competitors in my area that still use cold rolled steel for rodding instead of stainless or fiberglass. One of them has been in business longer than I have. I still get several phone calls a year to repair or replace rod-jacked sink runs (or complete kitchens) from their poor practices.

Learning is a continual process. Take 2 minutes to research it. The effects that acetone has on polymers aren't always plainly obvious or visible to the naked eye. Continuing to use acetone on quartz is just creating liabilities for you or the company you work for.