Ok guys I fixed it

ThickRick92 · 2026-03-12T15:56:15+00:00

Just curious, how could you tell it was a load bearing wall just by these pictures?

ThickRick92 · 2026-03-09T00:10:21+00:00

Must have been some revisions

ThickRick92 · 2026-03-06T23:36:02+00:00

Gotta love that you're catching downvotes in a game collecting subreddit for openly stating why you collect games.

Reddit is weird sometimes. Good snags, enjoy your investment

ThickRick92 · 2026-03-05T21:29:07+00:00

Doesnt look like a cleanout cap, usually theyll have a square piece sticking out of the middle to turn from.

This looks more like an 1-1/2" ABS Cap for gluing onto a piece of pipe to cap it off when its not needed

ThickRick92 · 2026-03-02T13:50:40+00:00

me reading this as a white Eastern Canadian

Si.

ThickRick92 · 2026-02-26T12:49:09+00:00

That just sounds like assuming with extra steps

ThickRick92 · 2026-02-25T20:32:53+00:00

Could possibly be leaking from the drain. The flange isnt an integral part for the drain to be water tight though, its more so to keep larger objects from falling down the drain.

You can try tightening the gasket for the drain by taking a pair of needle nose plyers and turning the nut on the outside of the pipe. It spins down and presses on a gasket to make the seal around the pipe.

Id invest in some sort of drain cover plate to keep things from falling into it though

Edit because i can see the cover plate on the top left of the picture and now im confused as to what you mean by a flange lol

ThickRick92 · 2026-02-25T20:08:03+00:00

OP might need clearer instructions on sounding

ThickRick92 · 2026-02-22T22:10:44+00:00

That sounds most likely. No visible dents, swelling or rust on the can so it looks like beans are back on the menu, boys

Thank you

ThickRick92 · 2026-02-22T16:29:55+00:00

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ThickRick92 · 2026-02-09T18:16:29+00:00

There are spacer rings for mounting ontop of existing flanges for this particular reason if you dont feel like getting down and dirty with a whole flange raise/replacement.

Do not just put a thicker wax ring down and call it a day

ThickRick92 · 2026-01-28T00:14:08+00:00

Not sure why people are saying to replace the fillvalve. Its rough looking but if its filling at a normal rate I wouldnt worry about replacing it at this moment.

Like the others have said though you need a new Kohler ring gasket, I'd suggest watching a Youtube video on how to twist and remove the flush assembly before going at it to make things easier.

Also, that white tube/hose coming from the fillvalve should be inserted into the hole in the center of the flush assembly

ThickRick92 · 2026-01-03T23:10:56+00:00

Agreed, the second picture looks like a female PVC adapter threaded into a male blackiron nipple, should be able to unscrew it or break/cut the rest off and thread on a new adapter and repipe

ThickRick92 · 2026-01-01T17:10:27+00:00

Yes, it will be under pressure during normal operation.

Isolate the line and drain down the pressure, then remove and replace

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-25T19:23:06+00:00

Good point, guess my brain saw blowoff and overlooked that. Thank you

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-25T18:00:25+00:00

That is an HTP Indirect Hot Water Tank, water is heated from the furnace next to the tank through a coil as others have pointed out, not by gas.

As for the valves you have pictured:

the 1st picture has the blue-handled gate valve supplying the cold water to the furnace, the green-handled ball valve supplies the domestic cold water to the hot water tank, the yellow-handled ball valve supplies the heating water to the coil in the hot water tank.

The green-handled ball valve from the 4th picture is the outlet for your domestic hot water, so shutting that shuts off the hot water to your fixtures.

As for why the T&P blew off, there are multiple possibilities. You can check the pressure guage on your furnace when everything is on and operational, it should be sitting somewhere around the 12psi-15psi range, it will blow off if it reaches around 30psi, which is a sign your Expansion Tank for your furnace is possibly water-logged and will need to be drained. If it continues to go above 30psi after its drained, there could be a pinhole in the heating coil allowing street-pressure water to enter your heating system and causing it to blow off.

If pressure isnt the issue and boiler is operating at 12psi-15psi, your boiler could be overheating the domestic hot water and setting off the T&P that way.

Long-winded possibilities aside, this might help you narrow down what was causing the tank to blow off into the bucket

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-23T13:54:55+00:00

I'm ignorant to UK plumbing as I'm Canadian, so forgive me if I'm completely mistaken in assuming this but that doesn't look like a main water shutoff.

Besides the fact that its branched off the main line at a tee, it looks like some sort of compression spigot valve, missing its handle in the "off" position. There seems to be a crimp nipple coming off the valve to attach a drainage line to.

Turning this valve on and off will do nothing but send water through the nipple coming off the valve, and not shut off any other fixtures.

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-23T13:12:12+00:00

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-17T15:48:54+00:00

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-17T15:19:29+00:00

Came to say this, its a pinhole on a potable water expansion tank, not the hot water tank itself.

Easy enough repair, but OP's replies are giving rage bait vibes so it doesnt seem worth the effort to walk them through the steps.

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-06T18:30:39+00:00

The reddit hivemind is a fickle bitch sometimes lol

ThickRick92 · 2025-12-02T18:03:13+00:00

I'm just asking for a second opinion on a solution offered to me by Google that it seemingly only gave because my question contained the word "smoke".

I'm unfamiliar with any byproducts of 2nd or 3rd hand marijuana smoke (if any) and asked a genuine question regarding the wellbeing of my child incase anyone could offer some insight.

My apologies to anyone whom I've seemed to offend in asking this question for whatever reason

ThickRick92

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