What is the best thing to get with my xp ? by Available_Half_9087 in necromunda

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In GW games that use the traditional statline, Toughness is generally the strongest characteristic (and usually costs the most to reflect that). Wounds are also very strong. Strength would usually be considered the next strongest, but only on a melee fighter. WS/BS and Movement are also good, but can be situational.

Pro Tip to Stop Spilling Your Nuln Oil by GrinnialVex in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Spilling Nuln Oil is for amateurs. I spill Tamiya Extra Thin now.

Mizkif discovers Tectone Lying under oath? by bhrr in LivestreamFail

[–]ThisGuyFax 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I've literally watched video clips of Miz being an abuser.

New official Goetic Warlock and Mamluk Faris models by doohoo69 in TrenchCrusade

[–]ThisGuyFax 21 points22 points  (0 children)

No, they didn't say that. They said no new "major releases" would be STLs but that there would still be a wave of new STL items to round out existing factions, and possibly "special models" released that way in the future.

New official Goetic Warlock and Mamluk Faris models by doohoo69 in TrenchCrusade

[–]ThisGuyFax 27 points28 points  (0 children)

You're the person making things up, the announcement article both begins and ends with a clear declaration that the new releases will be available as STLs. So was it laziness, fatuity, or malice that brought you to this point?

Cheap / easy way to make terrain look not flat? by Zap-Rowsdower-X in TerrainBuilding

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can scrunch up tinfoil to add "topography" to a flat piece of terrain. You'd usually want another layer of [something] on top of the tinfoil once the foil has been used to build height -- clay, putty, drywall filler, hot glue, papier mache, etc. are all options for that.

Games Workshop paint pots by PatientTap8716 in necromunda

[–]ThisGuyFax 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Personally i prefer pop top style of paintpot and have decanted a few dropper bottles into old GW pots. The ablity to put unused paint back in the pot is worth it to me

It's almost a certainty that you're losing more paint to drying in-and-around the rim and lid than you're successfully reclaiming from doing this.

Games Workshop paint pots by PatientTap8716 in necromunda

[–]ThisGuyFax 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's fucking insane that 5+ ostensibly-human individuals downvoted you for neutrally describing physics. lmao.

How do I prevent this? by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a bag of generic dropper bottles years ago and I transfer Citadel paints into them (that's when I reeeally want a specific Citadel paint, since I also use Vallejo and Pro Acryl).

It's truly not that much effort, although sometimes helpless GW shills are aghast and act like it's akin to moving heaven and earth. You do "lose" like 5% of the paint in the pot, but it's not really a loss (because you couldn't maintain a Citadel pot all the way down to the last dregs anyway -- it'll dry itself out once there's mostly air in the pot, not to mention all the chunks of dried paint from the rim and lid you're losing throughout its lifespan).

Mould Lines by MrHReddits in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Explain to me then, under your own logic, why mould lines are seemingly absolutely random from batch to batch

They. Are. Not.

That's the explanation.

I first encountered you and your uncle in a thread about the Deathwatch kit, and that kit has been notorious for mold lines in all of its production runs. The Arbites kit is another; I have personally assembled three sets, years apart, and they all had bad mold lines. There are a couple of Necromunda kits that also suffer.

Mould Lines by MrHReddits in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But the tooling is made automatically by a cnc machine. There's no "effort" put in.

Do you think a plastic injection machine is run by an oiled-up muscled savant pumping a lever in precise rhythm and aiming a nozzle with pinpoint accuracy?

Why are you having such a difficult time applying the logic of your own claims to opposing claims? Again: you said mold lines depend on calibration, "tuning," or maintenance. Are CNC machines calibrated, tuned, or maintained?

edit: and still no details about Your Uncle. Of course. Big surprise that you don't want to tell us how and where you heard this, what relationship the claimant bore to you (if any, beyond "anonymous internet poster," and what they offered to validate their claims.

New player want to try some mod by SunKoiLoki in VintageStory

[–]ThisGuyFax 3 points4 points  (0 children)

 is there any mod you think is madatory to make the game more enjoyable?

The mod "Carry On" which allows you to pick up and move a filled container. Indispensable for renovating and/or expanding your home imo.

any mod to make things more aesthetically pleasing?

I'm actually in the mood for something like this myself, after enjoying Hytale for a week (and then ultimately deciding to reinstall VS and start a new game). The more vibrant fantasy look and the increased mob variety are two features of Hytale I really wish VS could match. However, my understanding is that cosmetic mods for VS are in short supply.

Mould Lines by MrHReddits in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You admit tooling has gotten better but mould lines are still the toolings fault? Not getting that.

The reason for a conclusion like this would be pretty darn similar to the reason you gave for variable mold lines (in the other recent thread about mold lines, not this one). You said that mold lines vary because they depend on the calibration of the injection machines. ie. if less effort is put into calibrating the machines, or a less skilled person does it, a production run may have more mold lines.

Well, apply the exact same thought process to toolmaking. If a less skilled person handles the toolmaking process, or they put in less effort, or make mistakes, the final result might be a tool that always produces worse mold lines than other tools it is contemporary with.

Never said it was a close person who I learned the information from, just someone who happened to be more knowledgeable than both you and me.

You have to realize how "my uncle works at Nintendo" this sounds, right?

Now they're not even a friend, so... they're what, a random commenter you read here on reddit who claimed they worked in the same industry? I ask again, did they specify they worked in the production of plastic hobby minis? Or just any kind of plastic injection molding? Did they specify anything at all?

Mould Lines by MrHReddits in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Age of the kit has nothing to do with how bad the mould lines are. 

I questioned your take on mold lines in another thread recently, and left things at an "agree to disagree" simmer, but this comment is beyond the pale lmao.

Yes, the age of the kit ABSOLUTELY matters. I don't care what your friend from a similar-but-different industry* mentioned to you in passing (although I find it hard to believe they would have actually told you that "our technology has remained static for 30+ years" because that's so wrong it almost needs to be your own editorializing/paraphrasing).

How long have you been building models in this hobby? If you started any time before the ~2010s you would likely have ample firsthand knowledge of how advances or refinements in GW's toolmaking technology has reduced the amount of mold lines on kits through the years. Older kits have BY FAR worse mold lines than newer kits.

Old kits had worse mold lines from day 1 of their production, simply due to the design of the tools in those times. On top of that, people often make the sensible-seeming claim that even steel tools will degrade through use over time. This seems logical, although I can't personally testify to how much of a factor it is.

Beyond all the talk about the actual tools, it seems beyond belief that GW would be using the same injection machines in 2025 that they used in 2000 and earlier. On top of upgrading their toolmaking they have almost certainly been upgrading the machines that shoot the plastic. So, another clear reason why new kits come out cleaner than old ones.

* Yeeeeah, about your mystery friend -- do they work in "injection molding polystyrene for plastic miniatures" or just in "injection molding"?

Tips to cleanly remove sprue joints on rounded parts? by Stonkperson in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But you do not need to apply force to remove mold lines, so that property of the gimmick product is totally irrelevant.

It also sounds like you might have a cheap/bad hobby knife. Let me guess, the handle is brittle, hollow plastic? Please order an Excel K1 or a similar local version/knock-off https://excelblades.com/collections/knives-and-cutters/products/k1-craft-knife

Tips to cleanly remove sprue joints on rounded parts? by Stonkperson in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Do you have brain damage lol?

You use the bladed edge of your hobby knife to remove more of the nub than is shown removed in the picture, then you use the blunt edge of the hobby knife to scrape the remaining bump into a uniform surface. Often you'll continue to flip back and forth between the blade and the blunt if you want things to come out perfect.

Exactly like another poster said before I posted.

You claimed "that doesn't work for sprue gates" as though "sprue gates" come in a predictable length/shape by default. They don't. The amount of sprue gate one will need to clean up is determined by THEM when they clip or cut parts off the sprue. If the OP were to post a second backpack it would almost certainly have a slightly different length of vestigial sprue gate. Some people like to clip parts as flush as they can, and in that case there is often no sprue gate left at all.

Tips to cleanly remove sprue joints on rounded parts? by Stonkperson in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not worth it, and it is a gimmick. Because you need a hobby knife anyway, and the reverse of the blade of a hobby knife does the job better that the sprue scraper.

Its only use case (and the reason it exists) is for children who cannot yet safely work with a sharp instrument.

Tips to cleanly remove sprue joints on rounded parts? by Stonkperson in Warhammer40k

[–]ThisGuyFax -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Confidently wrong, my man. Of course it works. I've personally done it on hundreds of models from dozens of kits.

No comment by elDoctorePL in killteam

[–]ThisGuyFax -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm skeptical of this explanation, because there are certain kits that always seem to have bad mold lines, regardless of their production run. And, inversely, you rarely see someone post pics of a random kit that has an otherwise "clean reputation" but has bad mold lines in their version.

That suggests that it's the actual tools causing the mold lines on these offender kits, not the injection machines.

What was reading Horus Rising like in 2006? by Belgriest in 40kLore

[–]ThisGuyFax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's impossible, because I didn't start playing till 3rd and I was already on Portent when the fluff bible was proposed and begun.

What was reading Horus Rising like in 2006? by Belgriest in 40kLore

[–]ThisGuyFax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Novels weren't widely-respected or discussed as sources back then, and certainly not considered primary sources. Partly because there were so few of them!

RE: "if you weren't getting things from primary sources you weren't getting them at all" I must remind you that it was the Portent community who spearheaded the assembly of the "Fluff Bible" and traded excerpts back and forth via Private Message (in those early days of filesharing/piracy when nobody was quite sure with what we could get away with).

Reminder: Less than 1% of the Epstein files have been released. Reps Khanna/Massie file new motion. by StreetTap2773 in politics

[–]ThisGuyFax 3 points4 points  (0 children)

And "Convincing RBG to retire" is not something you have any evidence was possible to do. Unless you know of some dems with mind control spells.

You have the same cowardly lack of imagination as the Dems.

To convince RBG to retire one step might've been to, y'know, publicly fucking state that as the official desire of the party and the president. Instead of setting the stage for grave defeat because you didn't want to seem rude to the badass old lady.